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Eater Voices

This is Eater Voices, where chefs, restaurateurs, writers, and industry insiders share their perspectives about the food world, tackling a range of topics through the lens of personal experience. If you want to write an Eater Voices essay, please send us a couple paragraphs explaining what you want to write about and why you are the person to write it to voices@eater.com.

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In Tottenham’s Latin Village, I Found a Taste of Home

For one campaigner, saving Tottenham’s Latin Village was about more than gentrification. It was about preserving a sanctuary.

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A 15-Year Fight to Save London’s Latin Village Came to an End. And the Community Won

In August, the Save Latin Village campaign overcame developers, local politicians, and more to rescue a vital culinary and cultural hub

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‘Don’t Call Me Chef’

The power the title implies has been a cover for bad behavior for far too long — and Reem Assil doesn’t want any part of it

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Growing Up on Los Angeles’s Black Barbecue

In the 1970s and 1980s, zig-zagging across the city to pick up food for summer barbecues became a rite of passage for one writer

The Almost-Sacred Dance of Making Southern Mac and Cheese

If Restaurants Can Build a Sidewalk Shed, They Can Accommodate Disabled Diners

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Have Delivery Apps Changed What a Restaurant Is?

The pandemic has forced restaurants to accommodate delivery in order to stay relevant. And there’s no going back now.

We Should All Be Drinking More Lebanese Wine

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Enforcing Masks at My Texas Restaurants Has Been the Toughest Decision in a Year of Tough Decisions

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Chicago Needs a Restaurant Critic More Than Ever 

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Why I’m Opening My Restaurant for Indoor Dining in NYC

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The Toxicity of Restaurant Kitchens Is Exactly Why I Never Reported Abuses

It took leaving the industry to see its problems in full focus, and to understand how wrong I was to stay silent about my experiences

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With Delivery Apps, the Balance Scale Is Severely Tipped Against Restaurants

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The True Cost of Convenience

Third-party delivery apps with billions of dollars have perpetuated a distorted business model rooted in consumer convenience — and it’s restaurants and workers paying the price

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Layers of Obstruction

In Paris, it was nearly impossible for me to find a pastry stage. Was it because I’m Black?

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As Restaurants Struggle, Diner Expectations Shoot ‘Impossibly High’

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I Smiled Through Racism and Abuse at My Restaurant Job, Because I Had To

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Marcus Rashford Is Fighting the Government on Free School Meals. He’s Also Fighting Jamie Oliver’s Legacy

I was a pupil for the filming of Jamie’s School Dinners, and Rashford’s campaign shows how the TV programme did more harm than good for children and families that rely on state-funded food

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Foraging in the Pacific Northwest Is a Search for Hope Amid the Pandemic

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I Own a Coffee Shop in a Small Town. We’re the Only Business That Requires Masks.

People didn’t believe COVID would affect our remote community in South Dakota, but my cafe can’t take that chance

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If Oregon Wants to Keep Its Bars Alive, It Needs to Legalize Takeout Cocktails

Portland is heading into the winter. Without some sort of takeout cocktail sales, some of the city’s best bars won’t survive 2020

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Food, It Turns Out, Has Little to Do With Why I Love to Travel 

It’s the people that make a place — but these days, human interaction is hard to come by

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My Boss Kept Breaking COVID-19 Rules. I Didn’t Know What to Do.

Watching the bar fill up, I felt like I’d reached my breaking point. I knew I needed to do something, anything.

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Restaurants Are Closing, Not Failing — That Difference Matters

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The Case for Outdoor Dining Right Now

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Bay Area Fine Dining Kitchens Have an Anti-Blackness Problem. I See It Every Day.

For three years, I’ve been one of the only Black chefs at some of the Bay Area’s most prominent restaurants. The same core issues of racism — and little being done about it — have been present everywhere.

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Why I Won’t Reopen My Dining Room Until There’s a COVID-19 Vaccine

On the Day We Reopened Our Restaurant, We Had to Close It Again

We spent a month preparing to safely reopen our restaurant. Five hours after opening our doors, the state made us close again.

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I’m Through Being Silent About the Restaurant Industry’s Racism

As a Black server and diner, I’ve seen how racism in the restaurant industry plays out on both sides of the table

Reclaiming Indian Food from the White Gaze

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Opening a Burmese Restaurant Was an Uphill Battle. Will America Remember Us When We Reopen?

The co-owner of hit D.C. spot Thamee wonders if the Southeast Asian kitchens that helped fuel the city’s restaurant boom will be able to reclaim their momentum

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‘When We Needed It to Be, Food Was a Weapon’

Early Black Panther Party member Billy X Jennings helped feed a movement. Fifty years later, he still sees its impact.

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