This is Eater Voices, where chefs, restaurateurs, writers, and industry insiders share their perspectives about the food world, tackling a range of topics through the lens of personal experience. If you want to write an Eater Voices essay, please send us a couple paragraphs explaining what you want to write about and why you are the person to write it to firstname.lastname@example.org.
On Fusion, Forced Migration, and Somali Food
How Somali food in the diaspora holds the history of forced migration
Five years after I went public with my #MeToo experiences in the restaurant industry, has anything really changed?
Pastry Chefs Aren’t Disappearing — We’re Evolving
Pastry chefs may be leaving restaurants, but that’s not necessarily a bad thing for the profession
My feeding tube means I can no longer enjoy the feeling of being sated after a meal. But there are other ways to nourish myself beyond my body.
My Restaurant Couldn’t Survive Customers’ ‘Normal’ Dining Expectations
Diners need to understand that things will never be as they were before the pandemic
‘The Only Reason I’m a Chef Today Is Because of DACA’
Chef and former ‘Top Chef’ contestant Byron Gomez on how the Deferred Action for Childhood Arrivals program paved the way for his career
The Fight to Address Food Insecurity Goes Beyond Emergency Responses
Over the last few years, new and well-established nonprofits and urban farms have been responding to food insecurity in Detroit. But to keep the momentum, organizers need support in the form of proactive government policy.
‘I Would Love to Fly a Trans Flag, But It Might Put My Animals in Danger’
Farmer Lee Hennessy on why he’s crowdfunding for a security system for his upstate NY farm
‘Did We Not Try Hard Enough?’
When I closed my restaurant Here’s Looking at You it felt like the end. Reopening feels like a gamble.
In Tottenham’s Latin Village, I Found a Taste of Home
For one campaigner, saving Tottenham’s Latin Village was about more than gentrification. It was about preserving a sanctuary.
A 15-Year Fight to Save London’s Latin Village Came to an End. And the Community Won
In August, the Save Latin Village campaign overcame developers, local politicians, and more to rescue a vital culinary and cultural hub
‘Don’t Call Me Chef’
The power the title implies has been a cover for bad behavior for far too long — and Reem Assil doesn’t want any part of it
Growing Up on Los Angeles’s Black Barbecue
In the 1970s and 1980s, zig-zagging across the city to pick up food for summer barbecues became a rite of passage for one writer
Have Delivery Apps Changed What a Restaurant Is?
The pandemic has forced restaurants to accommodate delivery in order to stay relevant. And there’s no going back now.
The Toxicity of Restaurant Kitchens Is Exactly Why I Never Reported Abuses
It took leaving the industry to see its problems in full focus, and to understand how wrong I was to stay silent about my experiences
The True Cost of Convenience
Third-party delivery apps with billions of dollars have perpetuated a distorted business model rooted in consumer convenience — and it’s restaurants and workers paying the price
Layers of Obstruction
In Paris, it was nearly impossible for me to find a pastry stage. Was it because I’m Black?
Marcus Rashford Is Fighting the Government on Free School Meals. He’s Also Fighting Jamie Oliver’s Legacy
I was a pupil for the filming of Jamie’s School Dinners, and Rashford’s campaign shows how the TV programme did more harm than good for children and families that rely on state-funded food