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Eater Voices

This is Eater Voices, where chefs, restaurateurs, writers, and industry insiders share their perspectives about the food world, tackling a range of topics through the lens of personal experience. If you want to write an Eater Voices essay, please send us a couple paragraphs explaining what you want to write about and why you are the person to write it to voices@eater.com.

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The Fight to Address Food Insecurity Goes Beyond Emergency Responses

Over the last few years, new and well-established nonprofits and urban farms have been responding to food insecurity in Detroit. But to keep the momentum, organizers need support in the form of proactive government policy.

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‘I Would Love to Fly a Trans Flag, But It Might Put My Animals in Danger’

Farmer Lee Hennessy on why he’s crowdfunding for a security system for his upstate NY farm

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What It’s Like to Be a Trans Person Working in a Restaurant Kitchen

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‘My Liver’s Furloughed’

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What It’s Like to Be a Restaurant’s ‘Vaccine Bouncer’

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‘Did We Not Try Hard Enough?’

When I closed my restaurant Here’s Looking at You it felt like the end. Reopening feels like a gamble.

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In Tottenham’s Latin Village, I Found a Taste of Home

For one campaigner, saving Tottenham’s Latin Village was about more than gentrification. It was about preserving a sanctuary.

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A 15-Year Fight to Save London’s Latin Village Came to an End. And the Community Won

In August, the Save Latin Village campaign overcame developers, local politicians, and more to rescue a vital culinary and cultural hub

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‘Don’t Call Me Chef’

The power the title implies has been a cover for bad behavior for far too long — and Reem Assil doesn’t want any part of it

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Growing Up on Los Angeles’s Black Barbecue

In the 1970s and 1980s, zig-zagging across the city to pick up food for summer barbecues became a rite of passage for one writer

The Almost-Sacred Dance of Making Southern Mac and Cheese

If Restaurants Can Build a Sidewalk Shed, They Can Accommodate Disabled Diners

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Have Delivery Apps Changed What a Restaurant Is?

The pandemic has forced restaurants to accommodate delivery in order to stay relevant. And there’s no going back now.

We Should All Be Drinking More Lebanese Wine

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Enforcing Masks at My Texas Restaurants Has Been the Toughest Decision in a Year of Tough Decisions

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Chicago Needs a Restaurant Critic More Than Ever 

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Why I’m Opening My Restaurant for Indoor Dining in NYC

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The Toxicity of Restaurant Kitchens Is Exactly Why I Never Reported Abuses

It took leaving the industry to see its problems in full focus, and to understand how wrong I was to stay silent about my experiences

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With Delivery Apps, the Balance Scale Is Severely Tipped Against Restaurants

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The True Cost of Convenience

Third-party delivery apps with billions of dollars have perpetuated a distorted business model rooted in consumer convenience — and it’s restaurants and workers paying the price

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Layers of Obstruction

In Paris, it was nearly impossible for me to find a pastry stage. Was it because I’m Black?

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As Restaurants Struggle, Diner Expectations Shoot ‘Impossibly High’

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I Smiled Through Racism and Abuse at My Restaurant Job, Because I Had To

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Marcus Rashford Is Fighting the Government on Free School Meals. He’s Also Fighting Jamie Oliver’s Legacy

I was a pupil for the filming of Jamie’s School Dinners, and Rashford’s campaign shows how the TV programme did more harm than good for children and families that rely on state-funded food

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Foraging in the Pacific Northwest Is a Search for Hope Amid the Pandemic

I Own a Coffee Shop in a Small Town. We’re the Only Business That Requires Masks.

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If Oregon Wants to Keep Its Bars Alive, It Needs to Legalize Takeout Cocktails

Portland is heading into the winter. Without some sort of takeout cocktail sales, some of the city’s best bars won’t survive 2020

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Food, It Turns Out, Has Little to Do With Why I Love to Travel 

It’s the people that make a place — but these days, human interaction is hard to come by

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My Boss Kept Breaking COVID-19 Rules. I Didn’t Know What to Do.

Watching the bar fill up, I felt like I’d reached my breaking point. I knew I needed to do something, anything.

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Restaurants Are Closing, Not Failing — That Difference Matters

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The Case for Outdoor Dining Right Now

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Bay Area Fine Dining Kitchens Have an Anti-Blackness Problem. I See It Every Day.

For three years, I’ve been one of the only Black chefs at some of the Bay Area’s most prominent restaurants. The same core issues of racism — and little being done about it — have been present everywhere.

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