Whole-roasted cauliflower — whether it’s served in “steak” form or brought to the table in its entirety, like a roast waiting to be sliced — is undoubtedly having a moment. Credit goes to Israeli celebrity chef Eyal Shani for popularizing the dish at his Tel Aviv and Paris restaurants more than a decade ago; stateside, astute observers like New Orleans chef Alon Shaya and recipe developer Julia Moskin have helped to spread the roasted-cauliflower gospel.
At New York City’s AbcV, the new vegetarian restaurant by legendary French chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten, the dish gets a simple garnish, with a gremolata of pistachios, pomegranate, onions, chiles, and herbs that keeps the brassica at the center. “Vegetables always had a bad reputation: the same old recipes, always cooked with olive oil, the same flavors,” Vongerichten told Eater earlier this year, referring to how he hoped to subvert diner expectations. “We tried to create an exciting menu.”
In this episode of Elevated Cooking, AbcV chef de cuisine Neal Harden preps up that family-style cauliflower dish — plus, a plate of slow-roasted beets for good measure.