Anchovy-laced peanut brittle; hamachi dotted with Kool-Aid kimchi; short rib and daikon ramen — in this latest episode of K-Town, Eater editor and host Matthew Kang does a private tasting with renegade Atlanta chef Allen Suh. Suh has cooked everywhere from traditional places like Yet Tuh to trendier spots like Gaja. Running a pop-up called Ronen Knife in a hip bar in the Edgewood neighborhood on the east side of Atlanta, Suh takes Kang through a tasting of his Korean-inspired dishes, from soondae-filled dumplings to a maximalist daikon “ramen” made with thick-cut noodles, braised galbi, and a topping of fresh sea urchin uni.
Kang compares the dishes to a jazz player who’s riffing off of keys and licks from musicians before him, and the results are pretty satisfying. Suh's menu is a foray into the new limits of what Korean cuisine can be, with classic techniques and unconventional plating coming together in a surprising harmony. “My brain is bending right now,” Kang says as he samples yet-another unexpected dish. “This is cool.”