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2024-03-18T16:14:18-04:00
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2024-03-18T16:14:18-04:00
2024-03-18T16:14:18-04:00
How Brooklyn’s Lucia Pizza Continues a Family Legacy
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<p>Second-generation pizzaiolo Salvatore Carlino learned everything he knows about pizza from his parents</p> <p id="7gH9YB">Salvatore Carlino, chef-owner of Brooklyn’s Lucia Pizza, did not have to look any further than his own upbringing when deciding what he wants his pizza joint to look like. Carlino’s parents were the owners of legendary pizza joint Papa Leone’s: “It’s kind of like having professional athletes for parents, then you decide that you wanna play that sport.”</p>
<p id="18GKWb">Pulling from his childhood in Papa Leone’s, an iconic element of the legendary shop that Carlino brought over to Lucia pizza is its clam pie. “There was no figuring out that recipe,” Carlino explains. “It hit the pan the same way I saw my dad do it.” Every Friday, the Lucia team sources fresh clams from Avenue Fish Market. The team shucks whole clams, chops them, saves the juice, and then sautés them with a white wine butter reduction. It’s a labor-intensive process, one that Carlino only has his team do once a week. “It’s as good as it is because of the labor of the prep that’s involved for that fucking pie.”</p>
<p id="maJ880">Every element of Carlino’s slice shop, from the type of mixer he uses for the dough to the pies he serves, is inspired by what he watched his parents do. He finds some of his pizza-making techniques hard to explain, as they just come to him second nature. “I just do shit that I’ve seen done by people that were a lot older than me for the majority of my life,” Carlino says of his processes. “It’s worked out so far.”</p>
<p id="WOr3rP">Watch the latest episode of <em>Icons: Pizza </em>to learn more about how second-generation pizzaiolo Salvatore Carlino carries on his family legacy.</p>
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https://www.eater.com/24105124/lucia-pizza-brooklyn
Annie Harrigan
Eater Video
2024-03-18T14:37:30-04:00
2024-03-18T14:37:30-04:00
The Story Behind the José Andrés Nonprofit Currently Mobilized to Feed Gaza
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<figcaption>José Andrés | Photo: <a class="ql-link" href="https://www.facebook.com/WorldCentralKitchen/" target="_blank">World Central Kitchen / Facebook</a></figcaption>
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<p>World Central Kitchen just became the first group to send a ship carrying aid to Gaza. Here’s how the chef-led organization got started.</p> <p id="dDEFjK"><em><strong>Update: 3/18/2024:</strong></em><em> This story was originally published November 10, 2017. It has been updated throughout to reflect the latest information. </em></p>
<p id="5Z5T71">This month, the José Andrés-led nonprofit World Central Kitchen (WCK) <a href="https://www.nytimes.com/2024/03/17/world/middleeast/gaza-aid-ceasefire-chef.html?smid=url-share">became the first organization</a> to successfully send aid to Gaza by ship when the Open Arms, carrying 200 tons of food, reached the area on March 15; WCK dispatched a second ship on Sunday, March 17. </p>
<p id="Z3dDBW">This comes after World Central Kitchen sent 1,400 aid trucks into Gaza and established 60 community kitchens in the region to serve hot meals. The organization is also making a special effort to raise funds during Ramadan to meet its goal of providing 4.7 million meals to Palestinians in need. </p>
<p id="MSAmnv">The challenge organizations like WCK face is enormous. Israel’s bombardments and blockades have led to severe food shortages, with the <a href="https://www.ipcinfo.org/fileadmin/user_upload/ipcinfo/docs/IPC_Gaza_Strip_Acute_Food_Insecurity_Feb_July2024_Special_Brief.pdf">Integrated Food Security Phase Classification Global Initiative</a> reporting that <a href="https://www.nytimes.com/2024/03/18/world/middleeast/gaza-famine-report-starvation.html">famine is imminent</a> in northern Gaza. On X, Andrés has urged President Biden to call for a ceasefire and cease military intervention, writing: “You should call off the arrival of the US Navy. It doesn’t make sense… the effort required to build docks and bring aid by boat vs pushing to allow in the thousands of trucks full of aid waiting at checkpoints! Military intervention even for humanitarian purposes, is not the answer nor welcomed by the people of Gaza… or myself.” </p>
<p id="Uvt6TL">World Central Kitchen’s ability to mobilize following disasters around the world is well established. But while the NGO, which aims to change the world “through the eyes of a chef,” may have first risen to wide public attention when it served more than <a href="https://wck.org/news/five-years-since-hurricane-maria">3.7 million meals in Puerto Rico</a> following Hurricane Maria, its work started years before. Here’s the backstory on the chef-led organization.</p>
<h2 id="xphZIF">World Central Kitchen’s origin story</h2>
<p id="AaVwdv">Andrés was inspired to found World Central Kitchen in 2010. After a 7.0 magnitude earthquake hit Haiti that year, the chef traveled to the country to work with other nonprofit organizations to install clean cookstoves in the region. In 2011, he joined the Global Alliance for Clean Cookstoves, a UN foundation launched in 2010 by then-Secretary of State Hillary Clinton, as culinary ambassador. In an <a href="http://cleancookstoves.org/about/news/09-13-2011-award-winning-chef-jos-andr-s-joins-global-alliance-for-clean-cookstoves.html">announcement of his new role</a> he said that he “went to Haiti to assist in humanitarian relief efforts, and saw that the grinding poverty they live with day-to-day had been exacerbated by dirty cooking conditions in overcrowded and unsafe tent cities.” While in Haiti, he also fell in love with country and, naturally, wanted to do more.</p>
<p id="di37Nk">At the time, Andrés was chairman of the hunger-fighting nonprofit DC Central Kitchen and on the boards at some other NGOs, but he didn’t see what he was looking for in the international development world — essentially, “an organization that really focused on empowerment and not just feeding,” according to current World Central Kitchen executive director Brian MacNair. Andrés approached DC Central Kitchen with his idea for a new nonprofit. “He said, ‘Hey, I want to start my own organization called World Central Kitchen, tipping my hat to DC Central Kitchen. It’s an empowerment organization,’” MacNair says. “I didn’t think he’d do it.”</p>
<p id="2mO7Ar">After it became clear that Andrés was in fact serious about creating an international empowerment nonprofit, MacNair came on in 2012. He helped streamline World Central Kitchen’s mission to focus on four distinct areas: education, health, jobs, and social enterprise. But unlike other organizations that offer global aid, World Central Kitchen would answer these needs with chefs. “There’s a lot of chefs that are doing good work, but an organization on the ground, kind of like a chefs’ network, didn’t exist and still doesn’t,” MacNair says.</p>
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<cite>Photo: Courtesy World Central Kitchen</cite>
<figcaption>Chef David Destinoble, center, a member of World Central Kitchen’s chef network </figcaption>
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<h2 id="NSmN1P">How World Central Kitchen works </h2>
<p id="nFeVkO">In 2013, World Central Kitchen established its “chef network,” which now includes 140 professional chefs. The vision was for a kind of “chefs without borders” program where chefs would enact positive change, globally, using knowledge and resources related to their professions.</p>
<p id="qOPsdi">Initially, the majority of the organization’s work directly addressed either education, health, job creation, or social enterprise all over the world. It built working kitchens in public schools to ensure children are eating in school, thus encouraging them to go. World Central Kitchen promoted health by teaching food safety and installing clean cookstoves. And to create jobs, World Central Kitchen established culinary schools, which also boost the hospitality industry and stimulate the economy in the areas where it is active — starting with Haiti.</p>
<p id="Et3gI4">It has since established multiple ongoing initiatives in the country, including a culinary school in Port-au-Prince (now run by <a href="https://wck.org/resilience/ecole-des-chefs">chef Mi-Sol Chevallier</a>), a bakery and restaurant in Croix-des-Bouquets that generate revenue for an orphanage, and “Haiti Breathes,” a campaign to convert Haiti’s school kitchens from using solid fuels to liquid petroleum gas to promote cleaner air. </p>
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<cite>Photo: Courtesy World Central Kitchen</cite>
<figcaption>José Andrés doing work for World Central Kitchen </figcaption>
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<p id="qkzYW3">In addition to Haiti, World Central Kitchen has operated in the Dominican Republic, Nicaragua, Zambia, Peru, Cuba, Uganda, Cambodia, and elsewhere. According to MacNair, the group responds to requests from nonprofits and government organizations to build school kitchens and conduct sanitation training, but it also supports smaller projects in line with its four goals on a case-by-case basis.</p>
<p id="4nSyqx">World Central Kitchen helped a group of women in the Dominican Republic market the honey that they harvest. In Nicaragua, it invested in a coffee roasting facility and has worked with fellow empowerment organization Fabretto to renovate school kitchens. </p>
<h2 id="DgadMX">World Central Kitchen’s disaster and hurricane relief</h2>
<p id="a3Efmq">In October 2016, when Hurricane Matthew hit Haiti, killing more than 900 people, World Central Kitchen was on the ground and distributed 15,000 meals from a mobile kitchen. This marked the beginning of the organization’s disaster relief efforts. </p>
<p id="cv3s4B">Those efforts continued in August 2017 when Andrés <a href="https://houston.eater.com/2017/8/30/16224880/jose-andres-texas-strong-chef-network-recruits">flew to Houston</a> to feed people after Hurricane Harvey flooded the city. There, World Central Kitchen mobilized food donations and activated its network of chefs to feed people in need of support. But, it wasn’t until Hurricane Maria struck Puerto Rico that fall that disaster relief became the fifth part of World Central Kitchen’s official mission.</p>
<p id="OMjW4A">As with Hurricane Harvey in Houston, Andrés flew to Puerto Rico days after Hurricane Maria made landfall. Andrés and his network of chefs, which he acknowledged on Twitter with #ChefsForPuertoRico, established kitchens across the island, and the visibility of these efforts allowed World Central Kitchen to secure donations and private funding, crucial to feeding people left without food, clean water, and electricity. Although World Central Kitchen fulfilled a FEMA contract in Puerto Rico, it’s this private funding that allowed the group to continue to feed people through Thanksgiving of that year and well beyond.</p>
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<cite>Photo: <a href="https://www.facebook.com/chefjoseandres/photos/a.10150660351568119.406211.39106648118/10155677194343119/?type=1&theater">World Central Kitchen / Facebook</a></cite>
<figcaption>José Andrés in Puerto Rico </figcaption>
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<p id="6TlOV7">“Puerto Rico just took us by storm,” MacNair said in 2017. “We grew 500 percent as an organization overnight.” World Central Kitchen has since hired staff to focus solely on disaster relief “because, clearly, we are chef relief now. We are disaster relief now,” MacNair said.</p>
<p id="mONGMj">As extreme weather events and other climate-related disasters become more frequent, World Central Kitchen has grown its efforts across the world. Over the course of the past year, it has supported people after Hurricane Ian in Florida, flooding in Pakistan, wildfires in Spain, and now, Hawaii, to list just a few. “The most important is not to cook, but food distribution,” Andrés told <a href="https://twitter.com/AC360/status/1169048872355868674">CNN’s Anderson Cooper</a> after Hurricane Dorian. </p>
<h2 id="BdFK29">#ChefsForFeds</h2>
<p id="dCSzWG">The nonprofit has also reacted to more manmade crises: In 2018, World Central Kitchen fed <a href="https://wck.org/news/wck-responds-to-refugee-crisis-in-tijuana">refugees in Tijuana, Mexico</a>, and on <a href="https://dc.eater.com/2019/1/14/18182182/jose-andres-furloughed-employees-world-central-kitchen-dc">January 16, 2019</a>, it opened a pop-up kitchen in D.C. to provide free meals to U.S. government employees who went without paychecks during the partial government shutdown began December 22, 2018. </p>
<p id="3mP0Ft">The nonprofit’s response to the shutdown, which World Central Kitchen dubbed #ChefsForFeds, didn’t end there. In a <a href="https://twitter.com/chefjoseandres/status/1086699907229065217?ref_src=twsrc%5Etfw%7Ctwcamp%5Etweetembed%7Ctwterm%5E1086699907229065217&ref_url=https%3A%2F%2Fdc.eater.com%2F2019%2F1%2F22%2F18192708%2Fjose-andres-chefsforfeds-goes-nation-wide">video posted to Twitter</a> January 19, 2019 Andrés announced that World Central Kitchen would expand to serve furloughed workers nationwide. “We believe this is a national food emergency and we will be there for the American federal workers,” he said. And on January 21, Andrés announced that World Central Kitchen would also establish a <a href="https://dc.eater.com/2019/1/22/18192708/jose-andres-chefsforfeds-goes-nation-wide">resource center</a> in D.C. to provide supplies like groceries, diapers, and pet food. </p>
<p id="TgGvgG">“This is our action to make sure nobody will be hungry,” Andrés said in the January 19 video. “President Trump, what are you doing about it?” </p>
<p id="pUEoNN">The World Central Kitchen team is consistently stationed at locations around the globe. In the wake of 2019’s Hurricane Dorian, the organization served refugees in Venezuela. </p>
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<p lang="en" dir="ltr">Reporting in after a long day on Abaco and visiting Green Turtle Cay, where all 550 people survived! We <a href="https://twitter.com/WCKitchen?ref_src=twsrc%5Etfw">@WCKitchen</a> brought hot meals and heard incredible stories....They need a few things, but otherwise are okay!! <a href="https://twitter.com/hashtag/ChefsForBahamas?src=hash&ref_src=twsrc%5Etfw">#ChefsForBahamas</a> <a href="https://t.co/sqrPmEbYmx">pic.twitter.com/sqrPmEbYmx</a></p>— José Andrés (@chefjoseandres) <a href="https://twitter.com/chefjoseandres/status/1169444477066502144?ref_src=twsrc%5Etfw">September 5, 2019</a>
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<h2 id="8a0jr5">#ChefsForUkraine</h2>
<p id="KlX2uH">The ongoing war on Ukraine saw World Central Kitchen take on another dimension to its disaster relief work. In the first weeks of the Russian invasion into Ukraine in early 2022, WCK teams fed refugees from a pedestrian border crossing in southern Poland. The effort marked the team’s first response in an active war zone. Eventually, the nonprofit established 4,000 distribution sites in Ukraine, as well as Romania, Moldova, Hungary, Slovakia, Germany, and Spain. And as Ukrainians <a href="https://www.wsj.com/articles/returning-ukrainian-refugees-say-theres-no-place-like-home-56cd2969">have returned home</a> the nonprofit has continued to provide meals and meal kits to those affected by the war. </p>
<h2 id="JU0GuG">World Central Kitchen in Hawaii</h2>
<p id="fFy2k4"><a href="https://www.eater.com/23865147/maui-fires-volunteer-response-chef-hui-world-central-kitchen">World Central Kitchen was active</a> in Hawaii in the days following an August 8 wildfire in Maui, which has been declared the deadliest in the United States in more than a century and led to more than 100 confirmed deaths. The town of Lahaina, the former capital of the Hawaiian Kingdom, was almost entirely destroyed, and thousands of people were forced to evacuate. </p>
<p id="RYvsyK">World Central Kitchen volunteers set up at food distribution locations on Maui and the Big Island, and within the first week of its arrival, the organization provided <a href="https://wck.org/news/hawaii-fires-update">more than 16,000</a> meals to wildfire victims. </p>
<h2 id="Vg0KoN">World Central Kitchen growing pains and leadership shakeup </h2>
<p id="K6ttZc">World Central Kitchen’s rapid growth has not been without pitfalls. In June 2023, <a href="https://wck.org/news/working-with-the-fierce-urgency-of-now">it disclosed</a> that an independent law firm had confirmed instances of fraud totaling several million dollars, linked to WCK’s presence in Ukraine and Turkey. </p>
<p id="SBJZTT">In a statement to Eater, a spokesperson for the company reiterated the message of the press release, saying: “While WCK recognizes nonprofits operating in major crises and active war zones are likely to experience fraud — as we recently saw <a href="https://us-west-2.protection.sophos.com/?d=washingtonpost.com&u=aHR0cHM6Ly93d3cud2FzaGluZ3RvbnBvc3QuY29tL3dvcmxkLzIwMjMvMDYvMDgvZXRoaW9waWEtdXNhaWQtc2NhbmRhbC1jdXRvZmYtZm9vZC8=&p=m&i=NjQ4ODYwZmI2MTY5NDAxNTYyOTUyMzhj&t=RVRDcDdmNGNhTnYxMGtYeVZlNjVlV1hidXZTMkhyMHBsUmNEb3dCZVRWbz0=&h=44dd3106a6284f949952e0e135d59ba0&s=AVNPUEhUT0NFTkNSWVBUSVa4VwAmwEEfyXu_LoMI-UTL7a6gfrt4jCIfyveVy_CICg">reports</a> of in Ethiopia — they remain committed to learning from their experiences and taking additional steps to improve operations as WCK continues to evolve into a more mature global relief organization.” </p>
<p id="K3mTex">The revelations led to changes in personnel in both locations, according to the spokesperson, who said the organization has “implemented additional safeguards to combat fraud without slowing or hindering the WCK mission, including vendor and contractor verifications, an anonymous tip line, and improvements to partner monitoring systems such as a separate control team that supervises the invoicing and delivery of meals in Ukraine.”</p>
<p id="MvV6W1">This news followed a tumultuous year behind the scenes of the NGO. In May 2023, <a href="https://www.bloomberg.com/news/articles/2023-05-12/sexual-harassment-claims-spurred-shakeup-at-jose-andres-s-world-central-kitchen?utm_content=business&cmpid=socialflow-twitter-business&utm_medium=social&utm_campaign=socialflow-organic&utm_source=twitter">Bloomberg reported</a> that Tim Kilcoyne, World Central Kitchen’s director of emergency relief was dismissed following an investigation into allegations of sexual harassment. News of the dismissal had reached employees in June 2022. Later that summer, longtime CEO Nate Mook left his position. A <a href="https://wck.org/news/board-of-directors-wck-leadership-announcement">brief press release</a> announcing the move said the board of directors and Mook “agreed to part ways.” In the same Bloomberg piece, Mook said, “the WCK board and I had differences over the CEO role.”</p>
<p id="A09zeB">Andrés, meanwhile, has remained the figurehead of World Central Kitchen since it began, with the official title, per the organization’s website, of “founder and chief feeding officer.” On social media, he continues to share dispatches from WCK’s operations, alongside missives that are more typical for a celebrity chef, such as new restaurant announcements and cookbook promotion. </p>
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https://www.eater.com/2017/11/10/16623204/jose-andres-gaza-world-central-kitchen-bahamas-puerto-rico-haiti-houston
Monica Burton
2024-03-18T12:58:32-04:00
2024-03-18T12:58:32-04:00
Alaskas Are Having a Moment. Why Not Try Them All?
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<a href="https://punchdrink.com/articles/alaska-martini-cocktail-recipes-chartreuse/">https://punchdrink.com/articles/alaska-martini-cocktail-recipes-chartreuse/</a>
https://punchdrink.com/articles/alaska-martini-cocktail-recipes-chartreuse/
Punch Staff
2024-03-18T10:38:45-04:00
2024-03-18T10:38:45-04:00
The Ultimate Guide to Chile Crisps
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<p>From the iconic Lao Gan Ma to new classic Fly by Jing, the spiciest, savoriest, and most essential chile crisps and oils to have in your pantry</p> <p class="p--has-dropcap p-large-text" id="335FML">The world of chile crisp is getting bigger and more diverse. When I first wrote a guide to chile crisp back in 2021, there were a handful of options powered by passionate chefs and a few emerging brands, like Fly By Jing. Only a couple of years later, options have nearly doubled, and as <a href="https://www.amazon.com/Chili-Crisp-Recipes-Garlicky-Cravings/dp/1797219766?&linkCode=ll1&tag=eater0c-20&linkId=bb6818e9da25257757f261d3e1641b73&language=en_US&ref_=as_li_ss_tl" rel="sponsored nofollow noopener" target="_blank">a self-proclaimed chile crisp hype man</a>, I discover new, creative chile crisp brands almost daily: It’s not an understatement to say that chile crisp is getting hotter (and better) each year.</p>
<p id="3gBOyP">For those unfamiliar with chile crisp, it’s a spicy, crunchy, oily condiment that adds texture, heat, and a uniquely savory taste to food, and chile crisp brands achieve wildly different flavor profiles despite using similar ingredients. There are two components to consider when trying a new chile crisp: the oil-to-crisp ratio and any added ingredients. Some options are so powerful that they should be used as a dominant flavor profile when cooking: Think of chile oil-drenched noodles with fresh cilantro and cucumber, which usually feature an oil with intense, spice-forward notes. Other varieties are more like condiments, used as a finishing touch that’s mild, not overpowering, while adding a wonderful crunch. </p>
<h2 id="7KbOhl">How do I use chile crisp?</h2>
<p id="EsSslM">As the <a href="https://www.eater.com/23850910/chili-crisp-cookbook-james-park-interview">author of a cookbook that’s fully dedicated to chile crisp</a>, I’m always thinking of different ways to enjoy it. In my opinion, it belongs on everything, like on top of avocado toast, pizza, and fried chicken (my favorite!) by drizzling at the end. But you can also cook with it as a marinade, stir-fry sauce, and pasta sauce. One simple cooking technique that changed my life forever is frying eggs in chile crisp. The aroma of savory chile crisp hits your nose immediately, and the egg whites get a beautiful orange hue while the oil seasons the eggs. It will change your life if you have never done it. </p>
<p id="vqaJwS">The possibilities of enjoying and cooking with chile crisp are infinite; you can even incorporate it into desserts. Here are the ones to know to get you started on your own chile crisp journey.</p>
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<aside id="xV9bTn"><div data-anthem-component="readmore" data-anthem-component-data='{"stories":[{"title":"A Spicy, Savory Instant Tan Tan Shin Ramyun Recipe ","url":"https://www.eater.com/e/23863004"}]}'></div></aside><p id="nv6rxQ"></p>
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<h2 id="dML3Vr">The best crispy chile crisps to buy now</h2>
<h3 id="KUOh0n"><a href="https://www.amazon.com/Spicy-Chili-Crisp-Family-Restaurant/dp/B06XYTSGDP/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=lao+gan+ma+chili+crisp&qid=1605717692&s=grocery&sr=1-2&tag=eater0c-20" rel="sponsored nofollow noopener" target="_blank">Lao Gan Ma Spicy Chili Crisp</a></h3>
<p id="CheOeD">This crisp is by far the best-known, a pantry staple for many households, and the one that opened my eyes to the world of chile crisp. There are other varieties under the iconic Lao Gan Ma brand, including <a href="https://go.skimresources.com?id=1025X1701644&xs=1&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.sayweee.com%2Fen%2Fproduct%2FLaoganma-Fried-Chili-in-Oil%2F78%3Ftrace_id%3Df85fedb7-6539-4bb4-9d41-e1da2689f685" rel="sponsored nofollow noopener" target="_blank">fried chile in oil</a> and <a href="https://go.skimresources.com?id=1025X1701644&xs=1&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.sayweee.com%2Fen%2Fproduct%2FLaoganma-Chili-Oil-with-Fermented-Soybeans%2F97210%3Ftrace_id%3Df85fedb7-6539-4bb4-9d41-e1da2689f685" rel="sponsored nofollow noopener" target="_blank">chile oil with fermented soybeans</a>, but the spicy chile crisp is god-tier. Flavorful without being assertive, it’s a classic for a reason and has an instantly recognizable savory taste. <strong>Eat with:</strong> a buttery biscuit and crispy fried chicken from Popeyes.</p>
<div id="Rm4fa7"><div data-anthem-component="productcard:12026502" data-anthem-component-data='{"layout":"buttons_only"}'></div></div>
<h3 id="ghZwas"><a href="https://www.traderjoes.com/digin/post/chili-onion-crunch">Trader Joe’s Chili Onion Crunch</a></h3>
<p id="s3umH9">This chile crisp may not be spicy, but it’s a perfect introduction for those who are unfamiliar. It adds a ton of crunchy texture: Toasted dried onions, dried garlic, dried red bell peppers, and other crispy bits are mixed together in olive oil, resulting in a mild flavor. You can use it on any dish without overpowering the ingredients; it’s a great topping for salad and toasts. <strong>Eat with: </strong>avocado toast or any type of salad that can benefit from a crunch. </p>
<div id="6gNfug"><div data-anthem-component="productcard:12026505" data-anthem-component-data='{"layout":"buttons_only"}'></div></div>
<h3 id="CwMcpu"><a href="https://go.redirectingat.com?id=66960X1516589&xs=1&url=https%3A%2F%2Fflybyjing.com%2Fshop%2Fsichuan-chili-crisp&referrer=eater.com&sref=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.eater.com%2F22308176%2Fbest-spicy-chili-crisp-oil-james-park-lao-gan-ma-fly-by-jing" rel="sponsored nofollow noopener" target="_blank">Fly by Jing Sichuan Chili Crisp</a></h3>
<p id="oWxfWL">This delightfully numbing and savory condiment, crafted in Chengdu, China, has cultivated a community of spice-loving fans. The ratio of oil to chile flakes skews slightly on the oily side, which makes for a smooth drizzling on top of dishes. The brand now has multiple variations, including nutty <a href="https://shareasale.com/m-pr.cfm?merchantid=105661&userid=1225169&productid=1351988505&afftrack=Eater022824" rel="sponsored nofollow noopener" target="_blank">Chengdu Crunch</a>, and an even spicier version, <a href="https://shareasale.com/m-pr.cfm?merchantid=105661&userid=1225169&productid=1289371942&afftrack=Eater022824" rel="sponsored nofollow noopener" target="_blank">Xtra Spicy Chili Crisp</a>. It makes a great introduction to Sichuan cuisine, known for its numbing spice. Plus, the little bits of savory preserved black beans soaked in spicy oil will leave you wanting more. <strong>Eat with:</strong> congee, a perfect canvas for flavorful toppings, and steamed dumplings. </p>
<div id="pa3Ouo"><div data-anthem-component="productcard:12026506" data-anthem-component-data='{"layout":"buttons_only"}'></div></div>
<h3 id="ca1k5w"><a href="https://www.amazon.com/chili-oil-Crunchy-Garlic-Pack/dp/B01KYQX8CQ/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=S%26B+chili+oil+w%2F+Crunchy+Garlic&qid=1605717849&s=grocery&sr=1-1&tag=eater0c-20" rel="sponsored nofollow noopener" target="_blank">S&B Crunchy Garlic with Chili Oil</a></h3>
<p id="xMdUU9">As the name suggests, the first thing you’ll notice after you open this Japanese crisp is an abundance of dried garlic chips. The spice level is fairly mild and extremely subtle, making it ideal for dishes that need more texture, such as risotto, rice, and ramen. <strong>Eat with: </strong>salads and fried eggs.</p>
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<h3 id="3RzlzD"><a href="https://www.anrdoezrs.net/links/8532386/type/dlg/sid/eater/https://shop.momofuku.com/products/chili-crunch" rel="sponsored nofollow noopener" target="_blank">Momofuku Chili Crunch</a></h3>
<p id="WwnLrA">Developed by David Chang’s Momofuku culinary team, this crunchy crisp is full of umami with a surprising level of heat. What sets it apart from the rest is the use of shiitake mushroom powder, which contains naturally occurring MSG. It’s garlicky, oniony, deliciously spicy, and quite similar to the seasoning powder of Shin ramen. Its sibling product, <a href="https://www.jdoqocy.com/click-8836605-15212663?url=https%3A%2F%2Fshop.momofuku.com%2Fproducts%2Fblack-truffle-chili-crunch" rel="sponsored nofollow noopener" target="_blank">Momofuku Black Truffle Chili Crunch</a>, is slightly less spicy than the original, and amplified by the earthy flavor of black truffles. <strong>Eat with:</strong> dairy products; serve this with baked brie, and you will be hooked.</p>
<div id="3eVPvg"><div data-anthem-component="productcard:12026512" data-anthem-component-data='{"layout":"buttons_only"}'></div></div>
<h3 id="ugqCSr"><a href="https://go.redirectingat.com?id=66960X1516589&xs=1&url=https%3A%2F%2Fyunhai.shop%2Fproducts%2Fsu-chili-crisp%23tasting-notes-and-usage&referrer=eater.com&sref=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.eater.com%2F22308176%2Fbest-spicy-chili-crisp-oil-james-park-lao-gan-ma-fly-by-jing" rel="sponsored nofollow noopener" target="_blank">Su Chili Crisp</a></h3>
<p id="8gG3ic">If you love a numbing peppercorn taste, this Taipei-batched, Sichuan-style, mala-forward crisp is for you. It’s flavorful but not overpowering, yet strong enough that you can use it as a key cooking ingredient: The mala tingles you get from this crisp make for a particularly great mapo tofu. <strong>Eat with:</strong> In addition to that tofu, consider toast or dumplings.</p>
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<h3 id="vUh3aX"><a href="https://www.eatkarikari.com/shop">Kari Kari Garlic Chili Crisp</a></h3>
<p id="TxnJvJ">Big pieces of crispy garlic slices float on top of this chile oil. It’s a fantastic chile crisp for those who want to add flavor without overwhelming dishes with too much heat. With a perfect balance of crunch from peanut, garlic, and dried chile pepper, this chile crisp is versatile, making it perfect for day-to-day cooking. <strong>Eat with:</strong> Mix a generous spoonful of this chile crisp with mayo and eat it on French fries. </p>
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<h3 id="GHToKQ"><a href="https://mamateavs.com/products/mama-teavs-hot-garlic-new">Mama Teav’s Hot Garlic</a></h3>
<p id="dJVBYu">If you appreciate the garlicky notes of chile crisp, this version brings them. As the name suggests, it has intense yet delicious garlic flavors paired with mild spice from sun-dried Cambodian chiles and umami from onion and mushroom powders. The brand also offers <a href="https://mamateavs.com/products/mama-teavs-mild-garlic">a milder version</a> with less heat but still a garlicky punch. <strong>Eat with:</strong> garlic fried rice to make it even more garlicky. Or on your fried chicken sandwich.</p>
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<h3 id="6sn51P"><a href="https://www.homiah.com/products/sambal-chili-crunch">Homiah Sambal Chili Crunch</a></h3>
<p id="h2KQik">Inspired by sambal, a staple chile sauce for Southeast Asian cuisine, this chile crisp celebrates the spicy, savory, and sweet profile of those dishes. Made with less oil to bring out more flavor and textures, the original version has a mild heat level and is made with dried shrimp, while the vegan version features seaweed. <strong>Eat with: </strong>crispy tofu or tempeh. Or on top of flavorful soup, like laksa. </p>
<div id="tCnZwh"><div data-anthem-component="productcard:12278485" data-anthem-component-data='{"layout":"buttons_only"}'></div></div>
<h3 id="buaCZj"><a href="https://go.skimresources.com?id=1025X1701644&xs=1&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.barnaclefoods.com%2Fproducts%2Fkelp-chili-crisp" rel="sponsored nofollow noopener" target="_blank">Barnacle Foods Kelp Chili Crisp</a></h3>
<p id="zEQftG">This chile crisp has an unusual ingredient that sets it apart from the rest: kelp. Made in collaboration with YouTuber and sushi chef Taku from <a href="https://www.youtube.com/c/OutdoorChefLife">Outdoor Chef Life</a>, this unique crisp features salty, umami Alaska-grown kelp mixed with spicy chile flakes, fried onion, and garlic. It has a layer of depth from fermented black beans and soy sauce powder. <strong>Eat with: </strong>grilled shrimp or lobster. Or make a light vinaigrette to top off fresh oysters. </p>
<div id="793mhJ"><div data-anthem-component="productcard:12278489" data-anthem-component-data='{"layout":"buttons_only"}'></div></div>
<h3 id="wR2H99"><a href="https://go.redirectingat.com?id=66960X1516589&xs=1&url=https%3A%2F%2Fthebowlcut.com%2Fproducts%2Fchili-crisp&referrer=eater.com&sref=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.eater.com%2F22308176%2Fbest-spicy-chili-crisp-oil-james-park-lao-gan-ma-fly-by-jing" rel="sponsored nofollow noopener" target="_blank">Bowlcut Chili Crisp</a></h3>
<p id="wYOWBA">This chile crisp does not shy away from spice. It brings a serious kick from Thai bird’s-eye chile and a blend of gochugaru and Japones peppers — but balances it all nicely. The spice lingers on your tongue with a tingle, but it comes with a range of bright, intense, oniony flavors. <strong>Eat with:</strong> a breakfast sandwich or crispy scallion pancakes.</p>
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<h3 id="8p1YZl"><a href="https://sauceupnyc.com/products/chili-crisp-sauce">Sauce Up Chili Crisp Sauce</a></h3>
<p id="hjJsCm">Made with a blend of three different dried Mexican chiles, this chile crisp has a flavorful yet spicy kick with plenty of crunchy ingredients like fried shallots and sesame seeds. You also get a layer of savory umami from ground shiitake mushroom and a little zing from ground ginger. What’s interesting about this brand is its range of options: Aside from the original, it also has <a href="https://sauceupnyc.com/products/garlic-chip-chili-sauce">Garlic Chip Chili Sauce</a> that’s decidedly more garlicky, and even a powdered version, <a href="https://sauceupnyc.com/products/chili-crisp-signature-spice-mix">Chili Crisp Signature Spice Mix</a>. <strong>Eat with: </strong>a slice of cheesy pizza or warm, buttery biscuits.</p>
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<div class="c-wide-block"> <figure class="e-image">
<img alt="Jars of Junzi Chili Oil next to a big bowl of noodles with a fried egg on top." data-mask-text="false" src="https://cdn.vox-cdn.com/thumbor/Cn5VpzrdFowlVomebZHM6Vm6iYA=/800x0/filters:no_upscale()/cdn.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_asset/file/25338520/VICTA_EATER_CHILI_CRISPS___junzi_horizontal.jpg">
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<h2 id="Mhtzlx">The best oily chile crisps to buy now</h2>
<h2 id="xpgBXa"><a href="https://shopjunzi.com/collections/junzi-chili-oil/products/copy-of-junzi-chili-oil-original">Junzi Kitchen Chili Oil</a></h2>
<p id="jzhKOm">If you want to experience true mouth-tingling, burning, very spicy chile oil, this is for you; just a small amount can add some serious heat to your dish. This fiery condiment punches your taste buds in the best way. I used a heaping spoonful of it for some noodles recently, and I was a sweaty mess in the best way. The brand’s <a href="https://shopjunzi.com/collections/junzi-chili-oil/products/black-label-chili-oil-gift-set">Black Label Chili Oil</a>, made of black sesame oil, is a little smoky and provides a unique twist to the classic spicy version with a bit milder spice. <strong>Eat with:</strong> Compared to other varieties, this is a more oil-heavy condiment, so use it to make dishes like dan dan noodles.</p>
<div id="mdUhCg"><div data-anthem-component="productcard:12278496" data-anthem-component-data='{"layout":"buttons_only"}'></div></div>
<h3 id="4tU3S8"><a href="https://cyeats.com/chili-oil/malachilioil">CY Eats MáLà 麻辣 Chili Oil</a></h3>
<p id="ZjaqFZ">Created by <a href="https://www.instagram.com/christineyi/">Christine Yi</a>, this mala chile oil has cultivated a following. With more oil than mala pepper flakes, it’s smoky, savory, mouth-tingling, and great for cooking vegetables, like <a href="https://www.instagram.com/reel/CzuZU_6v4FA/">green beans</a>, and proteins, especially steak. <strong>Eat with:</strong> dumplings, as <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/C2JLxdGO_z5/">Christine does</a>.</p>
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<h3 id="jG7Epo"><a href="https://www.boonsauce.com/collection/boon-8-32">Boon Sauce</a></h3>
<p id="MaZuP1">Created by chef <a href="https://www.instagram.com/maxouboon/">Max Boonthanakit</a>, this condiment is a product of his love for Chinese chile crisp and his Thai roots. What’s unique about this sauce is the use of crispy anchovies, which soak up extra flavors from ingredients like shallots and fennel. Because of the anchovies, it’s better for cooking, so use it as a part of your noodle sauce or broth. <strong>Eat with:</strong> As the chef suggests, it pairs well with <a href="https://www.instagram.com/stories/highlights/17877911263581249/">Shin ramen</a>.</p>
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<h3 id="RaCcJF"><a href="https://go.skimresources.com?id=1025X1701644&xs=1&url=https%3A%2F%2Fpearlriver.com%2Fproducts%2Fforsyth-fire-escape-lemongrass-chili-crisp-oil%3F_pos%3D5%26_sid%3Da16758491%26_ss%3Dr" rel="sponsored nofollow noopener" target="_blank"></a></h3>
<p id="PTT3sk"><a href="https://www.instagram.com/forsythfireescape"></a></p>
<h3 id="C0k9yc"><a href="https://xiankits.com/products/xff-chili-oil-crisps-jar?Size=8oz">Xi’an Famous Foods Chili Oil and Crisps</a></h3>
<p id="Z0uins">New York City’s beloved Xi’an Famous Foods has always been known for its fiery, spicy dishes, like its hand-pulled noodles drenched with hot chile oil. Inspired by the cuisine of China’s Xi’an and Shaanxi regions, the chile oil is fragrant but not scarily spicy. It’s pretty simple, just a blend of chile peppers and oil, but that’s what makes this chile crisp good; it lets the flavors of chile peppers speak for themselves. <strong>Eat with:</strong> hand-pulled noodles, dumplings, or any noodle soup. </p>
<div id="TGoHFQ"><div data-anthem-component="productcard:12278504" data-anthem-component-data='{"layout":"buttons_only"}'></div></div>
<h3 id="04GK8F"><a href="https://holytshili.com/products/holy-tshili-everything-chili-crisp">Holy Tshili Everything Chili Crisp</a></h3>
<p id="4vAJbX">As soon as you open the jar, a whiff of nutty, fragrant sesame oil wafts out. This crisp also features a savory everything bagel mix, including sesame and poppy seeds. Since it’s oil-heavy, be sure to mix all the nuts and spices that are sitting on the bottom to get all the flavors. <strong>Eat with: </strong>Add it to cream cheese, then smear it over toasted bagels or use it as a quick dip.</p>
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<h3 id="bccTtC"><a href="https://chileeoil.com/products/original-chilee-chili-oil">Chilee Chili Oil</a></h3>
<p id="45ox3q">Handmade in Chicago, this delicious chile oil brings a rich, umami, spicy, and savory taste to every spoon. The balanced flavor profile makes this oil versatile, and ideal as both a finishing touch or a central part of the cooking process. You can also choose between two spice levels, and the brand even has a version that’s made out of <a href="https://chileeoil.com/products/spicy-premium-chilee-chili-oil">avocado oil</a>, which I rarely see in chile crisp. <strong>Eat with: </strong>mandu, Korean dumplings; or fried rice.</p>
<div id="uB2a9w"><div data-anthem-component="productcard:12278508" data-anthem-component-data='{"layout":"buttons_only"}'></div></div>
<h3 id="9jOxYv"><a href="https://weigoodfood.com/products/wei-good-chili-oil">Wei Good OG Chili Oil</a></h3>
<p id="Ti8n2i">This flavorful chile oil has just the right amount of spice with a fantastic savory, umami taste from shallots, shiitake mushrooms, and seaweed. Black vinegar adds a little bit of depth at the end while balancing the nutty notes of sesame oil. Wei Good also has <a href="https://weigoodfood.com/products/secret-spice-chili-oil">an extra hot and savory version</a> for those who are craving more heat. <strong>Eat with: </strong>oatmeal or over really good focaccia. </p>
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<h3 id="9b5TSf"><a href="https://zindrew.com/products/og">Zindrew Crunchy Garlic Chili Oil</a></h3>
<p id="zcpY3M">This vegan chile crisp is mild in spice and deliciously crunchy from a blend of different chile peppers and garlic. It’s also slightly sweet from brown sugar, which creates a nice balance with other spicy, salty ingredients. The spicier version, <a href="https://zindrew.com/products/zindrew-crunchy-garlic-chili-oil-x-batch">X Batch</a>, takes the heat to the next level without compromising flavor. <strong>Eat with:</strong> a grilled steak, chow mein, or in your salsa.</p>
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<h3 id="fC6ql2"><a href="https://hotcrispyoil.com/products/hotcrispyoil-hot-chili-garlic-oil">Hot Crispy Oil</a></h3>
<p id="2bB9BQ">Made with extra virgin olive oil, this flavorful oil brings everything you want in chile crisp: heat, umami, and a touch of herbaceousness. It adds the right amount of kick without overwhelming the flavor of your food. The brand also features a lineup of different products that celebrate the dynamic flavors of chile crisp, from <a href="https://hotcrispyoil.com/collections/hot-crispy-oil/products/hco-aioli">aioli</a> to <a href="https://hotcrispyoil.com/collections/hot-crispy-oil/products/hco-hot-sauce">hot sauce</a>. <strong>Eat with:</strong> an Italian sandwich, a grilled steak sandwich like <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/CrllsIOseSi/">this</a>, or pizza.</p>
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<p id="aarRqh"><small><em>James Park is the author of the book </em></small><a href="https://go.redirectingat.com?id=66960X1516589&xs=1&url=https%3A%2F%2Fbookshop.org%2Fp%2Fbooks%2Fchili-crisp-50-recipes-to-satisfy-your-spicy-crunchy-garlicky-cravings-james-park%2F19716516%3Fgclid%3DCj0KCQjwi7GnBhDXARIsAFLvH4mYHTyvNqPuTub8md8sAKo_lyTokxUMv4g85cuYcJGbqqkizXiFYtoaAlBeEALw_wcB&referrer=eater.com&sref=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.eater.com%2F22308176%2Fbest-spicy-chili-crisp-oil-james-park-lao-gan-ma-fly-by-jing" rel="sponsored nofollow noopener" target="_blank"><small>Chili Crisp: 50+ Recipes to Satisfy Your Spicy, Crunchy, Garlicky Cravings</small></a><small><em>, and a former Eater staffer. </em></small><br><a href="http://www.louiievicta.com/foodstyling/n8ibzq8ytyuodtk4isvumdum1xlxzm"><small><em>Louiie Victa</em></small></a><small><em> is a chef, recipe developer, food photographer, and stylist living in Las Vegas. She tested the recipes for </em></small><a href="https://www.shareasale-analytics.com/r.cfm?b=2071981&u=314743&m=97137&afftrack=66960X1516589Xbd7c9f6210e1e70f15bb7fe9fe7f0a2f&urllink=https%3A%2F%2Fbookshop.org%2Fp%2Fbooks%2Feater-100-essential-restaurant-recipes-from-the-authority-on-where-to-eat-and-why-it-matters-eater%2F19736767&shrsl_analytics_sscid=31k8%5Fh4yvc&shrsl_analytics_sstid=31k8%5Fh4yvc"><small><em>the </em></small><small>Eater </small><small><em>cookbook</em></small></a><small><em>.</em></small></p>
<aside id="mwVcPT"><div data-anthem-component="newsletter" data-anthem-component-data='{"slug":"eater"}'></div></aside>
https://www.eater.com/22308176/best-spicy-chili-crisp-oil-james-park-lao-gan-ma-fly-by-jing
James Park
2024-03-18T10:15:00-04:00
2024-03-18T10:15:00-04:00
A Spicy, Savory Instant Tan Tan Shin Ramyun Recipe
<figure>
<img alt="A bowl of tan tan shin ramyun set with chopsticks on a red and white checkered tablecloth." src="https://cdn.vox-cdn.com/thumbor/8UsR0YxfVopnYGu-KapI2NXO-PM=/0x1015:4572x4444/1310x983/cdn.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_image/image/73215093/100422_ChilliCKBK_Shin_Ramyun_233__Shin_Ramyun_HR.0.jpg" />
<figcaption>Heami Lee/Chronicle Books</figcaption>
</figure>
<p>Crowned with chile crisp, this quick, easy noodle dish will put a smile on your face</p> <p id="YLK0xG">Tantanmen is a Japanese take on dan dan noodles, or dandanmian, a popular noodle dish in Chinese Sichuan cuisine. There are four important components in dan dan noodles: spicy chile oil, a savory meat mixture, a nutty sauce, and wheat noodles with leafy vegetables. Unlike dan dan noodles, which don’t have any broth, Japanese tantanmen typically comes with a flavorful broth. Every time I sip this nutty, spicy broth, I can’t help but smile and forget all my worries. It sounds cheesy, but that’s the power of good broth, especially tantanmen. </p>
<p id="DJdRdL">This recipe is an instant way to create the spicy, nutty flavors of tantanmen. It starts with my absolute favorite brand of instant noodles, Shin Ramyun, which has addictively spicy flavors that complement chile crisp well. When assembling tantanmen, the savory meat mixture and broth are prepared separately. But in this dish, everything happens in one pot so that the broth can develop even deeper flavors. The tahini and soy milk combination adds nutty, savory flavors and creates a rich, creamy broth in minutes. </p>
<p id="IlT6cg">I love to dollop chile crisp on Korean instant ramyun to bring different types of heat to the broth, and this is just another delicious way to use chile crisp to level up instant ramyun. If you love things that are both spicy and creamy, this easy recipe is for you. <em>— James Park</em></p>
<aside id="J7HN0t"><div data-anthem-component="readmore" data-anthem-component-data='{"stories":[{"title":"The Ultimate Guide to Chile Crisps","url":"https://www.eater.com/22308176/best-chile-crisps-lao-gan-ma-momofuku-fly-by-jing-pantry-essential"}]}'></div></aside><p id="bZr6UN"></p>
<h2 id="G5a1kH">Instant Tan Tan Shin Ramyun Recipe</h2>
<p id="SxLLAb">Serves 2</p>
<h3 id="QJ6Nhk">Ingredients:</h3>
<p id="ApGjlm">2 large eggs <br>1 tablespoon neutral oil, such as vegetable or canola <br>1 pound ground pork <br>3 green onions, chopped <br>3 garlic cloves, minced<br>2 tablespoons mirin <br>2 tablespoons soy sauce <br>2 (4.2-ounce) packages Shin Ramyun or any spicy ramyun noodles, including seasoning packets (powdered seasoning and dehydrated vegetables) <br>1 tablespoon gochujang <br>1 medium yellow onion, sliced <br>3 tablespoons tahini <br>3 tablespoons chile crisp, plus more for serving <br>2 cups chicken broth (or any type of broth) <br>2 cups soy milk <br>3 heads baby bok choy </p>
<h3 id="T0vj6J">Instructions:</h3>
<p id="O8vTOt"><strong>Step 1: </strong>Add enough water to a large pot to submerge the eggs and bring to a boil; prepare a bowl with ice-cold water. Add the eggs to the boiling water and cook for 61⁄2 minutes. Transfer the eggs to the prepared ice bath to shock and stop the cooking. Peel the soft-boiled eggs and set them aside. </p>
<p id="GHWe1P"><strong>Step 2: </strong>In a heavy-bottom pot over medium-high heat, add the oil and cook the pork for 3 to 4 minutes, or until it’s no longer pink. Set aside 1 tablespoon of the green part of the chopped green onions, add the rest to the pot with the pork, along with the garlic, and saute for a few minutes, or until fragrant. Season the meat with the mirin, soy sauce, one entire powdered seasoning packet, and gochujang and continue to cook until most of the moisture has evaporated, 3 to 5 minutes. </p>
<p id="D1xztz"><strong>Step 3: </strong>Once the ground pork mixture is seasoned and slightly crisped, add the onion, followed by the tahini and chile crisp. Stir to combine. </p>
<p id="VGT3Ge"><strong>Step 4: </strong>Add the chicken broth and soy milk to the pot. Add only half of another powdered seasoning packet and both of the dried vegetable season- ing packets. Bring to a boil, then add the noodles and constantly lift them up and down in the boiling broth until fully cooked, about 4 minutes or the cooking time for the noodles listed on the package. After the first 2 minutes of cooking the noodles, add the bok choy. </p>
<p id="estbuq"><strong>Step 5: </strong>Divide the noodles between two bowls and garnish with the reserved green onions, the soft-boiled eggs, and an extra drizzle of chile crisp on top. Serve immediately. </p>
<p id="w4KUgj"><strong>NOTES: </strong>The noodles will absorb the broth during cooking. If you want a brothier ramyun, cook the noodles separately. Then, assemble the dish by adding the cooked noodles to the bowls first, then pouring the broth on top and garnishing. </p>
<p id="A4mceO">There are so many creative uses for Shin Ramyun seasoning powder. You can make this recipe again with your choice of noodles or <a href="https://www.eater.com/22517811/ramen-seasoning-packets-barbecue-grill-meats">use the seasoning packet to season your meat and veggies</a>. You can even use it as an ingredient to make your chile crisp blend. The seasoning already has spices and flavors, which will be a great addition to chile crisp! </p>
<p id="6vxQno"></p>
<p id="wWRkT1"><small><em>Excerpted with permission from </em></small><small>Chili Crisp: 50+ Recipes to Satisfy Your Spicy, Crunchy, Garlicky Cravings</small><small><em> b</em></small><small>y </small><small><em>James Park, 2023. Published by Chronicle Books. Photographs by Heami Lee, copyright ©2024. </em></small></p>
<aside id="cfpqbp"><div data-anthem-component="newsletter" data-anthem-component-data='{"slug":"add-to-cart"}'></div></aside>
https://www.eater.com/24098963/tan-tan-shin-ramyun-recipe-james-park-chili-crisp
James Park
2024-03-15T12:15:14-04:00
2024-03-15T12:15:14-04:00
Meghan Markle Returns to Her Lifestyle Maven Throne
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<img alt="2024 SXSW Conference And Festival - Day 1" src="https://cdn.vox-cdn.com/thumbor/T0EokJUbvh1KaGk7BG0vijhDWQ0=/0x0:5153x3865/1310x983/cdn.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_image/image/73209745/2069543577.0.jpg" />
<figcaption>Photo by Gary Miller/Getty Images</figcaption>
</figure>
<p>The Duchess of Sussex may soon start selling you marmalade and kitchen towels </p> <p id="s2MTrj">If you are living under a rock, you might not be aware that the British royal family is mired in chaos at the moment. In the midst of King Charles’s cancer diagnosis and the swirling conspiracy theories surrounding the “missing” Princess Kate, who’s scarcely been seen in public since Christmas 2023, self-exiled royal Meghan Markle, the Duchess of Sussex and wife of Prince Harry, is hoping to bring a little calm domesticity to the royal fold. How, you may ask? Why, with a new lifestyle brand, of course. Enter: American Riviera. </p>
<p id="3gVIRq">My colleagues at The Cut noticed that <a href="https://www.thecut.com/article/meghan-markle-new-instagram-brand-american-riviera.html">Markle had made a swift return to Instagram this week</a> to soft-launch her new lifestyle empire, complete with an Instagram story of Markle stirring together some sort of baked good in time to a vintage Nancy Sinatra tune. She has experience in this realm. Before she made headlines as the bride of Princess Diana’s youngest son, Markle was both an actress and the mind behind the Tig, a platform she used to write about travel and beauty, and shared her tips for dining in cities like Lisbon and her favorite recipes. The Tig was shuttered in 2017, the same year Markle became engaged to Prince Harry, and thus began her royal fairy tale. </p>
<p id="ruRyMa">But, of course, that’s not exactly how it worked out. The two were married, but after months of horrible (<a href="https://www.vox.com/first-person/2020/1/17/21070351/meghan-markle-prince-harry-leaving-royal-family-uk-racism">often racist</a>) treatment from the Royals Industrial Complex and the British press, Markle and Prince Harry announced that they would “step back” from their duties as senior royals and decamped to California. Once there, Markle engaged in a couple of high-profile Netflix and podcast development deals, the <a href="https://www.vulture.com/2023/07/meghan-markle-prince-harry-spotify-drama.html">latter of which did not end particularly well</a> for the Sussexes. </p>
<p id="5AttEG">And so it is perhaps not surprising that Markle, after a lengthy absence from Instagram and the world of social media influencers, is making a comeback. The couple, cut off from the extensive (mostly plundered) resources of the British royal family, has to figure out some way to make a buck! Filings with the U.S. Patent and Trademark Office indicate that Markle has registered American Riviera trademarks for “jellies, jams, and marmalades,” along with cookbooks and other kitchen goods. </p>
<p id="IYIqY6">In other words, it looks like Markle is positioning herself to become the next Joanna Gaines, who has built a massive empire that spans television, home goods, and even an entire complex of retail establishments and restaurants in her home base of Waco, Texas. Markle is especially well-positioned for that kind of success, considering how rapidly Markle-endorsed products like <a href="https://www.yahoo.com/entertainment/meghan-markle-loves-rothy-flats-195026169.html?guccounter=1&guce_referrer=aHR0cHM6Ly93d3cuZ29vZ2xlLmNvbS8&guce_referrer_sig=AQAAAD6V5qxnpnC1Rw_Sy1VFI8_4BX97uBJ8SeZHoo_xok3XiIhPWMbJKs4vcmsv7L4m8vYGygke8i2RnXOsGuJM1QrG8vVd3ATCMz--2AANNSdaEzFiaD060G7S6LAWXFDz6vpGuSP-kHp87cI9SjczzIpg7tNM2GyrtR0-kjKr4JZl">Rothys ballet flats flew off shelves</a> as soon as she was photographed wearing them. I can only imagine the digital chaos that will ensue the second that she starts selling her California clementine marmalade. </p>
<p id="yv9uTl">Even though she wasn’t a working royal for very long, Markle brings that cachet to a world in which most influencers are desperately seeking to make their (often luxurious) lives seem deeply normal. But from the jump, American Riviera is positioning itself as an upscale, aspirational brand — it’s literally in the name. The font used for its logo is a perfect juxtaposition of royal script and laid-back, California cool, indicating that it will offer consumers some proximity, however distant, to feeling a little bit like royalty. Or at the very least like a rich, cool, Californian. </p>
<p id="MPdpFZ">And it’s clear that there are plenty of consumers who are just dying to see whatever Markle does next — as of the time of this writing, the account had racked up over a quarter million followers in just a matter of hours, and that number is only ticking upward. Whether or not Markle will be able to even come close to Gaines’s domination on the world of home interiors remains to be seen, but one thing is abundantly clear: the Sussexes are coming for your kitchen. </p>
<aside id="cFumjy"><div data-anthem-component="newsletter" data-anthem-component-data='{"slug":"eater"}'></div></aside>
https://www.eater.com/24101905/meghan-markle-american-riviera-lifestyle-brand-launch
Amy McCarthy
2024-03-15T12:12:09-04:00
2024-03-15T12:12:09-04:00
Where’d You Go, Piquette?
<figure>
<img alt="An illustration of three bottles with labels depicting a figure and bottles. On the first label the figure is surrounded by bottles, the center label the bottles have been reduced, and on the third, the figure sits regarding a sole bottle. " src="https://cdn.vox-cdn.com/thumbor/4tzCtSIH7hfcLaUOY6fFw5Wx5qc=/293x0:2048x1316/1310x983/cdn.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_image/image/73209735/Article_Piquette_Wine_Trends.0.jpg" />
</figure>
<a href="https://punchdrink.com/articles/piquette-natural-wine-trend/">https://punchdrink.com/articles/piquette-natural-wine-trend/</a>
https://punchdrink.com/articles/piquette-natural-wine-trend/
Steven Grubbs
2024-03-15T12:06:41-04:00
2024-03-15T12:06:41-04:00
At the Houston Rodeo, Black Cowboy Culture Never Left the Saddle
<figure>
<img alt="An image that depicts many elements of Black Texas culture, including rapper Bun B, singer Beyoncé, and barbecue at the Houston Rodeo." src="https://cdn.vox-cdn.com/thumbor/clNJ230JCpC7Yetvcpv08n8BrgE=/200x0:1400x900/1310x983/cdn.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_image/image/73209725/rodeo_1.0.png" />
<figcaption>Photo illustration by Lille Allen; Bun B photographed by Bob Levey/Stringer via Getty; Beyoncé photographed by Mason Poole; barbecue images by Jason Fochtman/Houston Chronicle via Getty Images; Joel Villanueva/Getty; Gregory Smith/Getty; and razerbird/Getty</figcaption>
</figure>
<a href="https://houston.eater.com/2024/3/15/24101251/houston-rodeo-beyonce-black-cowboy-culture">https://houston.eater.com/2024/3/15/24101251/houston-rodeo-beyonce-black-cowboy-culture</a>
https://houston.eater.com/2024/3/15/24101251/houston-rodeo-beyonce-black-cowboy-culture
Kayla Stewart
2024-03-15T10:00:00-04:00
2024-03-15T10:00:00-04:00
Is Making Your Own Chinese Sausage Worth It?
<figure>
<img alt="Hands tying sausages for drying and curing." src="https://cdn.vox-cdn.com/thumbor/EA54oZAFVZUjIwVYcfnqJzBhbBw=/200x0:1400x900/1310x983/cdn.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_image/image/73209248/Artwork.0.jpg" />
<figcaption><a class="ql-link" href="https://www.lilyfossett.com/" target="_blank">Lily Fossett</a></figcaption>
</figure>
<p>DIY charcuterie can be yours, provided you don’t let humidity get in the way</p> <p id="fp8IB9">As someone who had previously only flirted with the idea of making sausages, I surprised myself when I came home at the start of February with a three-pound slab of pork belly and a $20 sausage stuffer. Perhaps it was a particularly celebratory Lunar New Year that enticed me to make my own fragrant and fatty slices of lap cheong to wok-toss into my favorite rice dishes. Or maybe it was my inner desire to see how the sausage <em>really </em>gets made.</p>
<p id="m6opEp">Certainly, my curiosity was piqued after watching Mei Liao’s <a href="https://www.tiktok.com/@daywithmei/video/7330859419963493675?lang=en">“How to not make Chinese sausages” TikTok tutorial</a>. As she does in many of her videos, Liao, a recipe developer specializing in Chinese American recipes, drew me in with a twist. “This is not a tutorial on making sausages,” she intoned. “Spoiler alert: I ended up tossing it all.” Humidity is the enemy of Chinese cured sausages, she explained, and after an unexpectedly rainy day in the San Francisco Bay Area, her sausages went bad. Despite this disclaimer, I eagerly followed along — Liao has a knack for explaining the complicated sausage process in digestible steps, so that eager home cooks like me can ask ourselves, “Is making homemade sausage really worth it?”</p>
<p id="Urqz4h">So far, after making one batch of sausages, my answer is a firm yes. Throughout my own first attempt, I was struck by the ease of sausage-making, even if it ended up requiring two days of prep. On the first day, I candied my pork fat and marinated the meat in a bath of spices, which took less than 15 minutes. On the second day, I recruited a friend to help me fill the casings; drawn in by the novelty of the process, he was more than happy to lend a hand to crank the stuffer. Surprisingly, we finished in less than half an hour, no longer than most baking projects (though larger batches will certainly take more time). Finally, I hung my sausages on a banister with ample airflow, where I left them to dry for one month. </p>
<p id="Yq9FeC">Countless countries, from Italy to Argentina, boast their own charcuterie culture, and China is no different. Chinese sausages have been around for hundreds of years, used primarily to preserve unwanted cuts of meat through the harsh winter months. There’s my favorite — hard lap cheong that’s dried like salami, but is both intensely savory <em>and</em> sweet on the palate. Then there are spicier, intensely smoked varieties from Sichuan and Hunan, and others made from duck liver, horse meat, or glutinous rice, to name just a few. </p>
<p id="04gsLf">The formula for Chinese sausages (of the pork variety) isn’t all that complicated: You need pork with a 70/30 lean-to-fat ratio, curing salt, sausage casings, Chinese spices and seasonings, plus a swig of distilled liquor (rose wine, baijiu, or vodka) to aid with preservation. I easily found all those ingredients at my Chinese grocery store. As I learned quickly on the sausage community forums, families closely guard and pass down their recipes like treasures to each new generation. The sausages themselves have become a festive and familiar presence in Chinese communities, with some makers dangling batches on fire escapes, laundry lines, and even basketball hoops. </p>
<p id="JzqLNa">For ten years running, Liao’s own family has assembled a hybrid Sichuanese-Cantonese sausage to ring in the Lunar New Year, and at this point Liao knows the process intimately. She’s spent hours filling sausage casings with a plastic plunger, hanging them from drying racks, and waiting patiently for the batch to cure in a cool, brisk garage for at least two weeks. Until this year, she relied on her intuition while preparing sausages — in her family, she says on TikTok, “food safety has always been more of a vibe check than a science.” Although many Chinese families are similarly loose with their protocol, Liao’s experience with spoiled sausages led her to conclude that now she has to “trust refrigeration more than AccuWeather.” </p>
<p id="i3r5wo">To make way for my own sausages, which numbered eight in total, there was a bit of preparation, including negotiating fridge real estate with my two roommates and finding a chilly, airy space in my basement. I even contemplated purchasing a fan to stimulate the ample air circulation needed for the sausages to dry. With temperatures in Brooklyn creeping past the recommended curing temperature of 55 degrees Fahrenheit, I needed the fridge to firm up the sausages — especially in the case of rain, since I wound up moving the sausages to my roof for part of the month. </p>
<p id="BjBQdf">While store-bought Chinese sausages may be more accessible, I learned that it doesn’t take a sausage expert to taste the difference between them and their homemade counterparts. Brandon Jew, the executive chef and owner of <a href="https://www.misterjius.com/">Mister Jiu’s</a> in San Francisco’s Chinatown, has sworn by homemade lap cheong since making his first batch in 2011 at Bar Agricole. According to Jew, the very best homemade sausages use hand-diced pork belly as opposed to ground pork, which creates deliciously fatty, melt-in-your-mouth sausage slivers. Not only are his hand-chopped, hand-assembled links more texturally interesting than store-bought, their flavor is far superior, too. </p>
<p id="nFagpE">To make sausages year-round in Mister Jiu’s kitchen, the chefs hang rows of links underneath their range hood, which provides ample ventilation and ambient temperatures. Not far from the restaurant, the famed Mow Lee Shing Kee & Company, which has been making sausage in San Francisco’s Chinatown for over 160 years, works with a similar setup. Curing sausages indoors in San Francisco is particularly fitting, says Jew, since the Bay Area’s cold temperatures and relatively dry conditions eliminate the need to splurge on pricey curing chambers.</p>
<p id="piXOoQ">In Jew’s eyes, curing sausages isn’t for the faint of heart. Instead, it should be viewed as a rewarding and fun task that can challenge the most passionate of home cooks. “Raw meat is not a beginner thing,” he says. “But I do think there is a lot of merit to making something yourself, enjoying it, and understanding how you want to tweak it.” As someone new to the sausage making world, and without the pressures of a paying customer, I find comfort in Jew’s words.</p>
<p id="hqmB6r">Charlene Luo, the founder of <a href="https://www.instagram.com/thebaodega/">The Baodega</a>, a Brooklyn-based Sichuanese supper club, plans her whole year around sausage making. Along with her signature mapo tofu, it’s the only dish that’s always served at her gatherings. Sichuanese sausage making has always been a family affair for Luo — she has memories of bringing her grandma’s homemade sausages on a plane from Sichuan and helping her mom assemble them in the Minnesota frost with the help of a makeshift hollowed-out pill bottle. Once she moved to New York, she wasn’t able to find homemade versions anywhere, so she decided to take matters into her own hands. Now in her fifth year making these spicy, savory links, she’s nailed down a near-foolproof method: curing the sausages on her rooftop in the winter.</p>
<p id="97YgeV">Much like Liao, Luo has made plenty of sacrifices to salvage her 40-pound batch of cured sausages, sometimes leaving social obligations quite suddenly when the weather threatens her efforts. “There were times when I was at dinner with friends and I had to leave early just to get home before it drizzled,” she tells me. Arriving home to an emergency situation of sorts, she’d frantically carry her sausages indoors, empty her fridge, and let the sausages dry in there until the weather cleared. Though this sort of unpredictability may deter some potential sausage makers, Luo believes it’s well worth the reward of continuing a traditional practice that very few attempt.</p>
<p id="Bg6DuD">Smoking your sausages isn’t a requirement, and I chose not to, but this added step adds a heavy, pungent, and bacon-like smoke that defines a deeply flavorful link. Last year, Luo obtained a kettle grill with applewood pellets to cold-smoke her sausages before letting them cure for an additional day. If you don’t own a smoker, don’t fret. Liao tells me that you can line a pan with foil, toss in some wood chips and peanut shells, and throw a rack on the top.</p>
<p id="I8Zfyt">If purchasing a $10,000 curing chamber isn’t in your future, Luo has a few more tips for achieving perfect curing conditions, even in the warmest of places. “I’ve seen people on YouTube empty their fridge, put a tension rod inside, and hang their sausages in there, with a little fan going,” she says. </p>
<p id="rVEB72">As for my own sausages, they’re coming along nicely. Already, in their second week of drying, the links are beginning to firm up and transform slowly into the lap cheong of my dreams. As I anticipate taking a celebratory bite of my finished sausages in a few weeks, I have an inkling that the wait will make them all the more worthwhile.</p>
<p id="xKmu1V"><a href="https://jesseng.com/index.html"><small><em>Jess Eng</em></small></a><small><em> is a food and culture writer based in New York City. Her work appears in the </em></small><small>Washington Post</small><small><em>, the </em></small><small>New York Times</small><small><em>, TASTE, and more.</em></small><br><a href="https://www.lilyfossett.com/"><small><em>Lily Fossett</em></small></a><small><em> is a freelance illustrator based in Bath, UK. She has a passion for portraying narrative in her illustrations and uses digital media to explore color and texture.</em></small></p>
<aside id="MT8Eby"><div data-anthem-component="newsletter" data-anthem-component-data='{"slug":"add-to-cart"}'></div></aside><p id="8ssesx"></p>
<p id="4opTDt"></p>
https://www.eater.com/24098979/should-you-make-chinese-sausage-at-home
Jess Eng
2024-03-15T09:52:45-04:00
2024-03-15T09:52:45-04:00
If You Can Afford to Eat in Space, You’re Too Rich
<figure>
<img alt="A large inflated balloon in space." src="https://cdn.vox-cdn.com/thumbor/2hJRitKdkOx3LS8FgCprv98s5K0=/999x0:7002x4502/1310x983/cdn.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_image/image/73209230/image.0.png" />
<figcaption>Six people will pay a whole lot of money to eat dinner in the vessel at the bottom of this space balloon. | Alchemist</figcaption>
</figure>
<p>For just $500K, you too can sign up for a fine dining experience in space</p> <p id="AQE4zM">In 1970, Gil Scott-Heron released “<a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=goh2x_G0ct4">Whitey On The Moon</a>,” a spoken-word poem juxtaposing America’s space race with the realities of Black poverty. “<a href="https://genius.com/18325346/Gil-scott-heron-whitey-on-the-moon/A-rat-done-bit-my-sister-nell">A rat done bit my sister Nell</a> / With whitey on the moon,” he begins, escalating through descriptions of medical bills and rising rents and taxes, which seem to be paying to send a precious few to plant a flag where no one else can see it. Eventually, he reaches a crescendo: “<a href="https://genius.com/18325331/Gil-scott-heron-whitey-on-the-moon/The-price-of-food-is-going-up">The price of food is going up</a> / And as if all that shit wasn’t enough.”</p>
<p id="evg16A">The price of food, and where you eat it, is going up. For 3.5 million Danish Krone each, currently just over $500,000, six lucky passengers will enjoy the luxury of eating in space. Per a press release, chef Rasmus Munk of Alchemist in Copenhagen, famous for making diners <a href="https://www.eater.com/2020/2/3/21120586/michelin-uk-tweets-about-french-kiss-alchemists-fake-human-tongue-dish">lick flowers off a realistic tongue</a>, is working with “private astronaut training” company SpaceVIP and vessel builders Space Perspective to host “the world’s first holistic dining experience in space aboard the world’s first CO2-neutral space capsule,” the Spaceship Neptune. “Explorers will ascend 100,000 feet above sea level where they will dine as they watch the sunrise over the Earth’s curvature,” <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/C4f29vbsLc-/?img_index=1">writes Alchemist</a>, and diners will be given custom space outfits made by Maison Ogier, a French sportswear brand. The flight would take off from Florida in 2025.</p>
<p id="C9jFpq">The supposed mission of the meal is twofold — to push the bounds of space tourism, and to give “all proceeds” to the <a href="https://www.spaceprize.org/">Space Prize Foundation</a>, which promotes education and develops mentorship opportunities for young girls interested in space. Munk also speaks of the influence space has had on his work, noting that he became interested in space after visiting the Planetarium in Copenhagen on a school trip. “The opportunity to create a stratospheric gastronomic experience together with the world’s leading experts in science and design feels completely wild and yet logical, strangely enough,” he says.</p>
<p id="acJFuB">There’s no menu yet, and the details are vague as to whether the meal will be cooked in space or just served there. But according to a press release, the goal is to “create a gastronomic interpretation of the past 60 years of space research and its impact on society — both scientifically and philosophically.” So maybe one of <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/B06R_qaB1Xh/?img_index=1">these edible heads</a> off the Alchemist’s menu, but made to look like Elon Musk watching yet another spaceship explode.</p>
<p id="79dumd">It is perhaps too easy to point out how unnecessary this endeavor feels, so let’s take it on its own terms. According to these actors, this meal will not only inch space tourism toward wider accessibility, but the Space Neptune will “contribute to climate science with ongoing atmospheric data and partnerships with various NGOs.” </p>
<p id="HPqzaA">Wanting more women to have careers in space science is certainly a noble goal, but it is hard to connect the dots. They do not explain how spending half a million dollars to eat in space makes it easier for anyone else to access that experience, nor why space tourism should be even a top 10 priority for the planet. And there is a tenuous connection between the money going toward mentorship and education and actually furthering social equality. Will money keep Alabama Republicans from trying to <a href="https://www.nbcnews.com/news/us-news/alabama-republicans-target-transgender-space-camp-employee-rcna143094">kick a trans counselor out of Space Camp</a> just because they’re trans?</p>
<p id="gYneRW">Similar questions already exist in the food world. How does one justify paying thousands of dollars for a meal when there is mass starvation, especially starvation <a href="https://www.newyorker.com/news/q-and-a/gaza-is-starving">being caused intentionally</a>? How much is too much to pay for a meal that is sustainably grown and comes from workers making a living wage? Does everyone in the world have to have their base needs met before we are allowed to think about art, about wonder, or are those as necessary as food? There aren’t many black and white answers. But I can think of few things more egregious than devoting the technology, the money, the food, the resources all toward six people who can afford to eat 18 miles above the Earth, for no other reason than they can. And hey, that does sound fun. If that were available to me, I might do it. But this team is trying to convince me this is the path to getting there, and I’m not sure I believe them.</p>
<p id="TneOFt">“After missions, astronauts often say that the sight of our planet against the infinitely dark universe background highlights the unity among all living beings and creates an understanding that we have only one common home,” says the press release, suggesting this is a humanitarian mission for exactly six people. Participants, after finishing their avant-garde desserts and sipping a last space cocktail, will descend and see themselves as part of a bigger whole, no better or worse or more deserving of joy than anyone else on this Earth. And then they’ll give away the billions that allowed them to have that experience in the first place. A girl can dream.</p>
<aside id="2Ad4S5"><div data-anthem-component="newsletter" data-anthem-component-data='{"slug":"eater"}'></div></aside>
https://www.eater.com/24101300/dinner-in-space-perspectives-rasmus-munk
Jaya Saxena