Roman cuisine is defined by a unique set of ingredients, techniques, and dishes that set it apart from the food of all other Italian cities. Generational trattorias serve a delicious (if predictable) litany of specialties such as cacio e pepe, carbonara, roasted lamb, and assorted offal. Their ranks are bolstered by a number of neo-trattorias that take a fresh approach to the classics — just one way young chefs are nudging tradition forward in the Italian capital. There are also plenty of international flavors offering a break from the pecorino Romano- and guanciale-laden Roman classics.
Travelers tend to plan their dining itineraries far in advance, meaning last minute reservations are difficult. Consider booking a month ahead for sought-after spots. While some do offer online booking, you’ll have to try your luck by phone elsewhere, including at places so understaffed they aren’t even able to answer the phone some days; calling at the very beginning or end of service is your best bet.
Update, December 2022:
Rome’s exceptionally long tourist season has wound down and the city is gearing up for smaller holiday crowds and cooler weather. The most iconic local produce — artichokes and puntarelle — are heaped on market stalls and appear on menus all over town, a clear sign of late fall.
At the moment, fine dining restaurants are among the city’s most dynamic spots. Sicily’s chef Ciccio Sultano has imported dishes from his native island to Giano in the W Hotel, striking a pleasing balance of tradition and modernity. Across the river in Prati, chef Davide Puleio was recently awarded a Michelin star for his contemporary Italian dishes that blend local ingredients with techniques he acquired at Noma. While there are plenty of places in Rome to splurge, fast food options, like the sheet pan pizza at Pizzarium and the sourdough pizza pockets at Trapizzino, are some of the best bites. Meanwhile, diners in search of small plates, bold flavors, and natural wines will enjoy Circoletto, which offers a view of the Circus Maximus.
Staffing challenges have plagued restaurants over the past 18 months, and they still make service chaotic, so continue to bring a healthy dose of empathy and patience to every meal.
Eater updates this list quarterly to make sure it reflects the ever-changing dining scene in Rome.
Katie Parla is a Rome-based food and beverage journalist, culinary guide, and New York Times best-selling cookbook author. Her forthcoming cookbook, Food of the Italian Islands, will be released in March 2023.
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