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Tainan’s pedestrian Fuzhong Street 
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A Culinary Walking Tour Through Taiwan’s Street Food Capital

A short train ride from Taipei, Tainan is where many of country’s most famous dishes began

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Tainan’s pedestrian Fuzhong Street 
| Shutterstock

It is a widely held belief that the best street food in Taiwan exists not in Taipei, but in Tainan. A former Dutch colony, the southern city was populated by refugees fleeing China during that country’s regime change of the 17th century, and spent 200 years as Taiwan’s capital before it was moved north in 1887. Compared to Taipei, the roads here are narrow (maybe don’t rent a car), and the architecture is as varied and captivating as the city’s xiao chi, or “little eats” — famed delicacies that today attract culinary tourists from all over Asia and beyond.

The upheavals that shook Taiwan at the end of the 19th century and after World War II — respectively, Japan’s colonization of the island, then a huge influx of Chinese as a defeated Chiang Kai-shek withdrew from the mainland — didn’t reshape the culture in Tainan nearly so much as they did in the north, and that includes the foodways. When it comes to old-style Taiwanese cooking, most will admit that Tainan is unmatched. The dishes here tend to be sweeter than their northern Taiwan equivalents, too, due to greater Tainan’s 400-year history as a sugar (and salt)-producing region. And because the southwest is known as the island’s rice bowl, vegetable patch, oyster bed, and piggery combined, Tainan cuisine benefits from being close to the ingredient motherlode.

While culturally distinct, Tainan is an easy one-night detour — or even an ambitious day trip — on any Taipei itinerary. Bullet trains operated by Taiwan High Speed Rail take between about 90 minutes and 2 hours from the capital; you can buy tickets at the main station just before departure, or from special kiosks at local 7-Elevens.

Once in town, the dense city center is ideal for a walking tour of Tainan’s most acclaimed spins on street food, aided by this guide to crawling your way through them all. English is less widely spoken here than in Taipei, but the welcome is just as enthusiastic. In the end, your persistence will be rewarded by a peerless day of eating, with enough scenic walking between stops to stave off the meat sweats.

Note: You can get from the station to the city center by the H31 shuttle bus to Jiansing Junior High School (about 40 minutes, free) or Shalun Branch Railway (22 to 28 minutes, $25 TWD, or 80 cents USD) to Tainan Station. The bus drops you less than 1000 feet from the first eatery described below. (Alternately, you could also hop a taxi to the same address for about $400 TWD/$13 USD). Before eating, you may want to look around Tainan’s ancient Confucius Temple ( 台南孔子廟), located nearby. If you take the local train, consider starting your food crawl at stop 3.

Steven Crook is a freelance writer and co-author of A Culinary History of Taipei: Beyond Pork and Ponlai. He has called Tainan, Taiwan home for 24 years.

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Zhu Jiao Fan (Pigs’ Trotters and Rice, 豬腳飯)

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The restaurant may be quaint, but the specialty here is anything but. A stick-to-your-ribs achievement in pork cookery, large bowls come filled with steamed rice, Hakka pickle, stewed bamboo, and jiggly braised pigs’ knuckles or zhu jiao fan. To mitigate the heft, get yours with a helping of vegetables or a bowl of dou bao tang (豆包湯), a mild, clear soup bobbing with fried tofu balls. Open: 11 a.m. to 2 p.m., 5 to 8 p.m.; closed Mondays. Price: from $90 TWD ($3 USD)

Directions: From here, walk north to the next intersection, where you’ll see the entrance of Tainan Art Museum’s colonial-era Building 1. Turn right here and walk about 300 feet on the north side of Youai Street to a cooking station set up right against the sidewalk.

Pigs’ trotters on rice at Zhu Jiao Fan

Chao Fan Zhuan Jia (Fried Rice Expert, 炒飯專家)

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It’s not just about the way the chef uses a ladle to press rice against the hot wok, ensuring no grain is left unbrowned. This family-run eatery, located at the back of the art museum’s Building 1, goes one ingredient beyond conventional fried rice recipes. Whether tossed with beef, mutton, or lamb, the fried rice here comes imbued with the clean, menthol fragrance of white sesame oil which, because of its low smoke point, takes a deft hand to use in stir-fries. Here, the oil provides an almost lemony sharpness and nuttiness. Helpings come generously loaded with thinly sliced meat, and bits of bell pepper, grated carrot, egg, and shredded cabbage more than round out each serving — which is big enough to split three ways. Open: 10:30 a.m. to 2 p.m., 4 to 8:30 p.m.; closed Sundays. Price: from $60 TWD ($2 USD)

Directions: Take a few strides east to the nearest intersection, follow Kaishan Road north to the traffic circle, then go counter-clockwise around the circle to Qingnian Road. On the north side of the latter road, very near the circle, is an alley labeled Lane 8, Zhongshan Road. About 150 feet into the lane, you’ll find the next stop on your right.

The specialty at Chao Fan Zhuan Jia

Wuming Mi Gao (“No Name” Mi Gao) (無名米糕)

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This eatery is known as Mi Gao (米糕), which isn’t so much its name as what happens to be the first of three items listed on its little hand-painted sign. Mi gao is a glutinous rice cake, and the version here is hailed by aficionados of guzao wei (“ancient flavors”), topped with tiny cubes of braised pork belly and a generous sprinkling of pork floss (pork that’s been simmered until it breaks into strands, then thoroughly dried in a wok). The di gua ye tang, or sweet potato-leaf soup, is historically a peasant dish. Today, the dark greens — similar to broccoli rabe — give a snappy bitterness to the mild pork bone broth, which has none of the garlic and shallots used so ubiquitously and aggressively in Taiwanese cooking. Open: 9:30 a.m. to 3 p.m., 5 to 8 p.m.; closed Sundays. Price: from $30 TWD ($1 USD)

Directions: Retrace your steps to Pigs’ Trotters and Rice (No. 1), walk south to Fuqian Road, then west half a mile to stop 4.

Sweet potato-leaf soup and pork-topped glutenous rice at Wuming Mi Gao

Ah Long Xiangchang Shu Rou (Ah Long’s Sausages and Cooked Meats, 阿龍香腸熟肉)

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Ah Long serves hei bai qie, literally “black and white cuts,” but not far from what we think of as “cold cuts” in English. A variety of pork offal — heart, lung, liver, and stomach — as well as shark meat, deep-fried crab roe, and bitter gourd are precooked, then served chilled. Additionally, there’s a kind of soft sausage made from pig chitterlings called fen chang, plus crunchy deep-fried shrimp rolls (see No. 11 below). Each item costs just $20 TWD, and everything is laid out on the counter, so ordering is as easy as pointing. Simply sliced and served naked, your order will arrive with a saucer of mild mustard and thickened soy sauce for dipping. Open: 10:30 a.m. until sold out; closed Mondays. Price: from $20 TWD (65 cents USD)

Directions: From here head west 800 feet, then south 500 feet to stop 5.

Sausage and bits of offal at Ah Long Xiangchang Shu Rou

Lu Ji Du Tuo Yu Geng (Lu’s Spanish Mackerel Soup, 呂記𩵚魠魚羹)

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The owners of this stall-turned-storefront do just one thing, and they have it down pat. Marinated nuggets of Spanish mackerel are breaded and deep fried, then left to drain. Customers can pick between having it with a tangle of mian (wheat noodles), mǐ fen (rice-flour vermicelli), or just the fish in soup. Only after an order has been placed is the soup — thickened with cornstarch and flavored with a squirt of black vinegar — poured over the fish, which arrives at the table perfectly plump and flaky. Open: 6 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. daily. Price: from $60 TWD ($2 USD)

Directions: From here, make your way to Hai’an Road. Walk north to Minsheng Road, then east to one of the street-food epicenters of Tainan at stop 6.

Mackerel soup at Lu Ji Du Tuo Yu Geng

Ah-Juan’s Rou Zong and Lu Mian (阿娟肉粽魯麵)

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Good luck securing a seat at this daytime hotspot, where the lu mian — a starch-thickened soup packed with shredded vegetables, wheat noodles, and pork-fish paste dumplings — is singularly satisfying. And because locals phone in orders hours before breakfast, the queue for savory congee is just as lengthy, whether it’s yu tou zhou (taro congee, Mondays and Fridays only) or the Tuesday-special cabbage version, gao li cai zhou. Fortunately, take-out rou zong can be procured without much of a delay. These stodgy pork-and-mushroom-filled rice pyramids are prepared southern-style, overflowing with soft, whole peanuts, and boiled, not steamed, making for stickier rice. Across the street from the store you’ll spy the boiling apparatus and bundles of bamboo-leaf-wrapped rou zong hung up to cool. Open: 10:30 a.m. to 12:30 p.m.; closed Sundays. Price: from $40 TWD ($1.30 USD)

Directions: Go north on the right-hand side of the road to the next stop.

Rou zong at Ah-Juan’s

Tainan Tan Kao Di Gua (Tainan Roasted Sweet Potatoes, 台南碳烤地瓜)

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Look for the pot-bellied barrel on wheels roasting fragrant, yellow-fleshed sweet potatoes. Resting on top of it, you’ll see a selection of spuds that are ready to eat; the skins are crispy and blotched where the juice has oozed out and caramelized. Point to the one you want and wait for the price to be calculated according to its weight. It’s then entirely up to you whether you peel your sweet potato with your fingers, or bite right in. Open: 7:30 a.m. to 5:30 p.m. daily. Price: around $30 TWD ($1 USD)

Directions: Continue north on the same side of Guohua Street for less than 165 feet to stop 8.

Roasting sweet potatoes at Tainan Tan Kao Digua

Neipu Xiang Nian Gao (Neipu Rice Cake, 內埔鄉年糕)

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Mr. Chen, as he prefers to be called, lives two hours to the southeast of Tainan, in an area where most people are Hakka, an ethnic subgroup of Han Chinese complete with its own language and culinary customs that migrated to Taiwan from southern China in the 18th century. Each morning, Mr. Chen sets out from home before dawn to hawk several different kinds of freshly made Hakka-style nian gao (a sweet rice cake) and mochi to morning shoppers. Not quite desserts, not quite confections, everything in his box of delights is made of glutinous rice pounded into paste. Before steaming, varieties get slightly sweetened with white or brown sugar and flavored with adzuki beans, taro, banana, or with a combination of millet, barley, and other grains. Each portion is about the size of a deck of cards and comes wrapped in plastic. The pale colors don’t give much away in terms of flavor, so it’s a bit of a blind tasting for those who don’t speak Mandarin or Taiwanese. Get a second box to nibble on the train ride back to Taipei. Open: 7:30 a.m. to 3 p.m.; closed Sundays and Mondays. Price: from $30 TWD ($1 USD)

Directions: Continue north on the opposite side of Guohua Street for 150 feet to your next destination.

Sweet, glutenous nian gao

Yi Wei Pin Wha Guay (Number 1 Rice Pudding, 一味品碗粿)

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There’s no satisfactory translation of the savory steamed rice pudding-like dish known in Taiwanese dialect as wha guay. To help, Yi Wei Pin has a chart on the wall that shows the precise order in which the kitchen assembles up to 500 bowls each day: At the bottom there are two freshly cooked shrimp, a piece of pig’s foot, and a tiny strip of pork loin. A little diced braised fatty pork is added, then the bowl is filled with cooked rice that has been ground into a liquid, then steamed. Just before serving, pureed garlic, a sweet-ish spicy sauce, mild wasabi paste, and soy sauce are poured on top of the wheaty-tasting snack. The elements arrive unmixed, so feel free to stir everything together, or as many prefer, don’t, and instead delight in the variety of each bite. Open: 5 a.m. to 5 p.m.; closed Tuesdays. Price: from $30 TWD ($1 USD)

Directions: Take a few steps to the north toward the store where the sign incorporates an image of a toad.

Savory wha-guay at Yi Wei Pin

Shuxian Gong Qingcao Chadian (Water God Temple Herbal Tea Shop, 水仙宮青草茶店)

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The formula for Taiwanese herbal tea isn’t set in stone. It can be infused with the flavors of verbena, dandelion, the herb known as “heart of the earth” or “heal-all,” or various types of mint. These herbs, along with some grasses, are boiled up into a juice which is then filtered. Some vendors add sugar before cooling and selling the decoction. But not this one, which claims to have been making the stuff since the early 1950s. The result is slightly bitter yet refreshingly light, and goes down especially well after nine stops of hefty street food. The shop also sells the fresh (growing in pots in front of the store) and dried herbs to brew the stuff at home. Open: 8:30 a.m. to 8:30 p.m. daily. Price: from $30 TWD ($1)

Directions: The final stop of this food tour is a calorie-burning half-mile away if you walk through the backstreets around the Yuemen, one of the few surviving remnants of the city walls that once kept Tainan safe from rebels and bandits. A slightly longer route (nearly a mile) will take you through the gorgeously aged Shennong Street, lined with crumbling 19th-century merchants’ abodes. On this side of town, it’s also easy to flag down a taxi.

Herbal iced tea at Shuxian Gong Qingcao Chadian

Fucheng Huang Jia Xia Juan (Fucheng Huang Family Shrimp Roll, 府城黃家蝦捲)

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A bit bigger than Chinese/Vietnamese deep-fried spring rolls and slightly darker, Tainan shrimp rolls are filled with a mix of ground shrimp, shallots, pork, and pig offal. Most of the city’s deep-fried shrimp roll spots — including Taiwan’s best-known shrimp roll chain, Chou’s — have replaced the traditional caul fat wrapper with tofu skin. The third generation of Huang family to specialize in this Tainan delicacy is standing their ground in this respect, however, and as a result their shop lays claim to the crispiest rolls in town. For your final bite before leaving the city, add tiny dabs of the thickened soy sauce and piquant mustard brought to your table with your food, and enjoy a quintessential flavor of old Tainan. Open: 2:30 to 8 p.m. daily. Price: from $50 TWD ($1.63 USD)

Tainan’s crispiest shrimp roll

Zhu Jiao Fan (Pigs’ Trotters and Rice, 豬腳飯)

The restaurant may be quaint, but the specialty here is anything but. A stick-to-your-ribs achievement in pork cookery, large bowls come filled with steamed rice, Hakka pickle, stewed bamboo, and jiggly braised pigs’ knuckles or zhu jiao fan. To mitigate the heft, get yours with a helping of vegetables or a bowl of dou bao tang (豆包湯), a mild, clear soup bobbing with fried tofu balls. Open: 11 a.m. to 2 p.m., 5 to 8 p.m.; closed Mondays. Price: from $90 TWD ($3 USD)

Directions: From here, walk north to the next intersection, where you’ll see the entrance of Tainan Art Museum’s colonial-era Building 1. Turn right here and walk about 300 feet on the north side of Youai Street to a cooking station set up right against the sidewalk.

Pigs’ trotters on rice at Zhu Jiao Fan

Chao Fan Zhuan Jia (Fried Rice Expert, 炒飯專家)

It’s not just about the way the chef uses a ladle to press rice against the hot wok, ensuring no grain is left unbrowned. This family-run eatery, located at the back of the art museum’s Building 1, goes one ingredient beyond conventional fried rice recipes. Whether tossed with beef, mutton, or lamb, the fried rice here comes imbued with the clean, menthol fragrance of white sesame oil which, because of its low smoke point, takes a deft hand to use in stir-fries. Here, the oil provides an almost lemony sharpness and nuttiness. Helpings come generously loaded with thinly sliced meat, and bits of bell pepper, grated carrot, egg, and shredded cabbage more than round out each serving — which is big enough to split three ways. Open: 10:30 a.m. to 2 p.m., 4 to 8:30 p.m.; closed Sundays. Price: from $60 TWD ($2 USD)

Directions: Take a few strides east to the nearest intersection, follow Kaishan Road north to the traffic circle, then go counter-clockwise around the circle to Qingnian Road. On the north side of the latter road, very near the circle, is an alley labeled Lane 8, Zhongshan Road. About 150 feet into the lane, you’ll find the next stop on your right.

The specialty at Chao Fan Zhuan Jia

Wuming Mi Gao (“No Name” Mi Gao) (無名米糕)

This eatery is known as Mi Gao (米糕), which isn’t so much its name as what happens to be the first of three items listed on its little hand-painted sign. Mi gao is a glutinous rice cake, and the version here is hailed by aficionados of guzao wei (“ancient flavors”), topped with tiny cubes of braised pork belly and a generous sprinkling of pork floss (pork that’s been simmered until it breaks into strands, then thoroughly dried in a wok). The di gua ye tang, or sweet potato-leaf soup, is historically a peasant dish. Today, the dark greens — similar to broccoli rabe — give a snappy bitterness to the mild pork bone broth, which has none of the garlic and shallots used so ubiquitously and aggressively in Taiwanese cooking. Open: 9:30 a.m. to 3 p.m., 5 to 8 p.m.; closed Sundays. Price: from $30 TWD ($1 USD)

Directions: Retrace your steps to Pigs’ Trotters and Rice (No. 1), walk south to Fuqian Road, then west half a mile to stop 4.

Sweet potato-leaf soup and pork-topped glutenous rice at Wuming Mi Gao

Ah Long Xiangchang Shu Rou (Ah Long’s Sausages and Cooked Meats, 阿龍香腸熟肉)

Ah Long serves hei bai qie, literally “black and white cuts,” but not far from what we think of as “cold cuts” in English. A variety of pork offal — heart, lung, liver, and stomach — as well as shark meat, deep-fried crab roe, and bitter gourd are precooked, then served chilled. Additionally, there’s a kind of soft sausage made from pig chitterlings called fen chang, plus crunchy deep-fried shrimp rolls (see No. 11 below). Each item costs just $20 TWD, and everything is laid out on the counter, so ordering is as easy as pointing. Simply sliced and served naked, your order will arrive with a saucer of mild mustard and thickened soy sauce for dipping. Open: 10:30 a.m. until sold out; closed Mondays. Price: from $20 TWD (65 cents USD)

Directions: From here head west 800 feet, then south 500 feet to stop 5.

Sausage and bits of offal at Ah Long Xiangchang Shu Rou

Lu Ji Du Tuo Yu Geng (Lu’s Spanish Mackerel Soup, 呂記𩵚魠魚羹)

The owners of this stall-turned-storefront do just one thing, and they have it down pat. Marinated nuggets of Spanish mackerel are breaded and deep fried, then left to drain. Customers can pick between having it with a tangle of mian (wheat noodles), mǐ fen (rice-flour vermicelli), or just the fish in soup. Only after an order has been placed is the soup — thickened with cornstarch and flavored with a squirt of black vinegar — poured over the fish, which arrives at the table perfectly plump and flaky. Open: 6 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. daily. Price: from $60 TWD ($2 USD)

Directions: From here, make your way to Hai’an Road. Walk north to Minsheng Road, then east to one of the street-food epicenters of Tainan at stop 6.

Mackerel soup at Lu Ji Du Tuo Yu Geng

Ah-Juan’s Rou Zong and Lu Mian (阿娟肉粽魯麵)

Good luck securing a seat at this daytime hotspot, where the lu mian — a starch-thickened soup packed with shredded vegetables, wheat noodles, and pork-fish paste dumplings — is singularly satisfying. And because locals phone in orders hours before breakfast, the queue for savory congee is just as lengthy, whether it’s yu tou zhou (taro congee, Mondays and Fridays only) or the Tuesday-special cabbage version, gao li cai zhou. Fortunately, take-out rou zong can be procured without much of a delay. These stodgy pork-and-mushroom-filled rice pyramids are prepared southern-style, overflowing with soft, whole peanuts, and boiled, not steamed, making for stickier rice. Across the street from the store you’ll spy the boiling apparatus and bundles of bamboo-leaf-wrapped rou zong hung up to cool. Open: 10:30 a.m. to 12:30 p.m.; closed Sundays. Price: from $40 TWD ($1.30 USD)

Directions: Go north on the right-hand side of the road to the next stop.

Rou zong at Ah-Juan’s

Tainan Tan Kao Di Gua (Tainan Roasted Sweet Potatoes, 台南碳烤地瓜)

Look for the pot-bellied barrel on wheels roasting fragrant, yellow-fleshed sweet potatoes. Resting on top of it, you’ll see a selection of spuds that are ready to eat; the skins are crispy and blotched where the juice has oozed out and caramelized. Point to the one you want and wait for the price to be calculated according to its weight. It’s then entirely up to you whether you peel your sweet potato with your fingers, or bite right in. Open: 7:30 a.m. to 5:30 p.m. daily. Price: around $30 TWD ($1 USD)

Directions: Continue north on the same side of Guohua Street for less than 165 feet to stop 8.

Roasting sweet potatoes at Tainan Tan Kao Digua

Neipu Xiang Nian Gao (Neipu Rice Cake, 內埔鄉年糕)

Mr. Chen, as he prefers to be called, lives two hours to the southeast of Tainan, in an area where most people are Hakka, an ethnic subgroup of Han Chinese complete with its own language and culinary customs that migrated to Taiwan from southern China in the 18th century. Each morning, Mr. Chen sets out from home before dawn to hawk several different kinds of freshly made Hakka-style nian gao (a sweet rice cake) and mochi to morning shoppers. Not quite desserts, not quite confections, everything in his box of delights is made of glutinous rice pounded into paste. Before steaming, varieties get slightly sweetened with white or brown sugar and flavored with adzuki beans, taro, banana, or with a combination of millet, barley, and other grains. Each portion is about the size of a deck of cards and comes wrapped in plastic. The pale colors don’t give much away in terms of flavor, so it’s a bit of a blind tasting for those who don’t speak Mandarin or Taiwanese. Get a second box to nibble on the train ride back to Taipei. Open: 7:30 a.m. to 3 p.m.; closed Sundays and Mondays. Price: from $30 TWD ($1 USD)

Directions: Continue north on the opposite side of Guohua Street for 150 feet to your next destination.

Sweet, glutenous nian gao

Yi Wei Pin Wha Guay (Number 1 Rice Pudding, 一味品碗粿)

There’s no satisfactory translation of the savory steamed rice pudding-like dish known in Taiwanese dialect as wha guay. To help, Yi Wei Pin has a chart on the wall that shows the precise order in which the kitchen assembles up to 500 bowls each day: At the bottom there are two freshly cooked shrimp, a piece of pig’s foot, and a tiny strip of pork loin. A little diced braised fatty pork is added, then the bowl is filled with cooked rice that has been ground into a liquid, then steamed. Just before serving, pureed garlic, a sweet-ish spicy sauce, mild wasabi paste, and soy sauce are poured on top of the wheaty-tasting snack. The elements arrive unmixed, so feel free to stir everything together, or as many prefer, don’t, and instead delight in the variety of each bite. Open: 5 a.m. to 5 p.m.; closed Tuesdays. Price: from $30 TWD ($1 USD)

Directions: Take a few steps to the north toward the store where the sign incorporates an image of a toad.

Savory wha-guay at Yi Wei Pin

Shuxian Gong Qingcao Chadian (Water God Temple Herbal Tea Shop, 水仙宮青草茶店)

The formula for Taiwanese herbal tea isn’t set in stone. It can be infused with the flavors of verbena, dandelion, the herb known as “heart of the earth” or “heal-all,” or various types of mint. These herbs, along with some grasses, are boiled up into a juice which is then filtered. Some vendors add sugar before cooling and selling the decoction. But not this one, which claims to have been making the stuff since the early 1950s. The result is slightly bitter yet refreshingly light, and goes down especially well after nine stops of hefty street food. The shop also sells the fresh (growing in pots in front of the store) and dried herbs to brew the stuff at home. Open: 8:30 a.m. to 8:30 p.m. daily. Price: from $30 TWD ($1)

Directions: The final stop of this food tour is a calorie-burning half-mile away if you walk through the backstreets around the Yuemen, one of the few surviving remnants of the city walls that once kept Tainan safe from rebels and bandits. A slightly longer route (nearly a mile) will take you through the gorgeously aged Shennong Street, lined with crumbling 19th-century merchants’ abodes. On this side of town, it’s also easy to flag down a taxi.

Herbal iced tea at Shuxian Gong Qingcao Chadian

Fucheng Huang Jia Xia Juan (Fucheng Huang Family Shrimp Roll, 府城黃家蝦捲)

A bit bigger than Chinese/Vietnamese deep-fried spring rolls and slightly darker, Tainan shrimp rolls are filled with a mix of ground shrimp, shallots, pork, and pig offal. Most of the city’s deep-fried shrimp roll spots — including Taiwan’s best-known shrimp roll chain, Chou’s — have replaced the traditional caul fat wrapper with tofu skin. The third generation of Huang family to specialize in this Tainan delicacy is standing their ground in this respect, however, and as a result their shop lays claim to the crispiest rolls in town. For your final bite before leaving the city, add tiny dabs of the thickened soy sauce and piquant mustard brought to your table with your food, and enjoy a quintessential flavor of old Tainan. Open: 2:30 to 8 p.m. daily. Price: from $50 TWD ($1.63 USD)

Tainan’s crispiest shrimp roll

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