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Inside Odd Duck.
Odd Duck

The 38 Essential Milwaukee Restaurants

Polka-fueled Friday fish fries, classic frozen custard, whole lambs stuffed with rice, Detroit pizza from a mobile oven, a James Beard winner’s take on a Big Mac, and more of Milwaukee’s best meals

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Inside Odd Duck.
| Odd Duck

“Cliffie, quick. Breath test. What do you smell when I do this?” asks Norm.

“Milwaukee,” Cliff responds.

The punchline from season four of Cheers, which aired in 1985, made a joke of a town that smelled like its breweries and wasn’t known for much else. Today the medium-sized city’s cultural industries work to refute that sentiment, especially with food. For every sneer that Milwaukee lives in the shadow of its Lake Michigan neighbor, Chicago, someone is serving up quiet, casual defiance with a pastrami chop cheese bagel sandwich, or a pambazo, or Peruvian chicken, or an olive oil cake. For every dig that the city is a staid Rust Belt town of sausage and cheese, there’s Nashville hot chicken sausage and goat cheese curds in chorizo cream sauce. And, regardless of any commentary, there are James Beard nominees and winners turning the sleeper restaurant scene into a Midwestern culinary stronghold.

As Milwaukee prepares to host Season 21 of Top Chef, the Harley Davidson Homecoming this summer (the 120th birthday of the city’s favorite and noisiest native son), and the Republican National Convention, residents continue to bask in the Giannis Antetokounmpo era and the simple exhilaration of surviving Great Lakes winters. Through all the activity, restaurants keep pushing forward, finding new ways and reasons to celebrate a city that, yes, sometimes smells like beer — and there’s nothing wrong with that.

Todd Lazarski Is a Milwaukee-based freelance writer and the author of the new novel Spend It All.

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Eater maps are curated by editors and aim to reflect a diversity of neighborhoods, cuisines, and prices. Learn more about our editorial process.

Kopp’s Frozen Custard

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Since 1950 Elsa Kopp’s frozen custard has been a local staple for creamy comfort. But it’s not simple sundaes that inspire treks to the three suburban locations. Their jumbo burgers have the charry-edged, beefy, buttery finish that all nouveau diner flattops yearn for. They are housed in starchy soft buns and draped in melty processed yellow cheese, but from there personalizations hold a mirror up to the eater. Do you like it simple with ketchup? Or do you need a thrill with hot sauce and jalapenos? Why not make it a double with bacon and bracingly stinky fried onions? However you order yours, eat it in the car with the radio turned to Bob Uecker covering a Brewers game. That is living your best Milwaukee life.

A hand holds a massive burger in front of a wall of foliage. The double burger is topped with cheese, onions, tomato, lettuce and pickles.
Double jumbo burger with lots of toppings
Kopp’s Frozen Custard/Facebook

Sherman Phoenix

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Part social movement, part cultural hub, the Phoenix remains the beating heart of the Sherman Park neighborhood. After the civil unrest following a fatal police shooting in 2016, community leaders transformed a damaged BMO Harris Bank building into this sprawling collective of small businesses, most of them owned by people of color. Since then, it’s been host to a presidential campaign rally and nominated for a State Farm Building Blocks Award. On a quotidian level, it soothes with balms like gourmet popcorn, barbecue, and chicken wings from Brooklyn-based Buffalo Boss, and a smattering of culture, wellness, and fashion tenants whose offerings range from massage therapy to lash extensions.

Two restaurant workers in branded T-shirts stand behind a counter while a customer looks up at illuminated menus hanging from the ceiling behind the counter.
Ordering at the counter
Sherman Phoenix/Facebook

Lakefront Brewery

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Lakefront started in 1987, but it somehow feels older, like it’s just always existed in Milwaukee. After the big boys that made Milwaukee famous, and before the boom of third-wave craft brewers sprouting up in the past decade, Lakefront was the most ubiquitous local beer of area bars and liquor stores. Nowadays you’re not really a Milwaukeean until you’ve taken one of the brewery’s famous tours or stopped by the live polka-fueled Friday fish fry. Lakefront keeps things fresh with stunts like a rotating weekly “curd of the day” and romantic private chalet dinners overlooking the fermentation cellar.

A row of small greenhouses fit with dining rooms along a riverfront
Private “hop house” outdoor dining pods
Lakefront Brewery [Official Photo]

From James Beard to Food & Wine, recognition for the East Side’s premiere fine dining establishment continues to validate Milwaukee as a serious gastronomic destination. Chef Justin Carlisle curates a seasonal, ever-changing menu of high-minded new American food with manicured small plates and tasting menus that bound between caviar, tartare, and pear sorbet. Despite the showmanship and lofty ambitions, Ardent stays humble. The dining room is intimate, Carlisle sources from his family’s farm, and the vibe remains ‘Sconnie proud and unpretentious. You might even find a beer cheese pretzel among the snack options.

A chef adds the finishing touch to a row of meringue like puffs in a long vegetale-looking tube dotted with various colorful garnishes on a long ceramic plate on a prep station
Tweezing on the final touches
Kevin J. Miyazaki

Speed Queen Bar-B-Q

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Since 1975, this nondescript, low-slung, windowless Walnut Street spot has blown plumes of porky smoke over the near North Side, eliciting a Pavlovian response from anyone within nose-shot. The kitchen utilizes the recipes of Betty Gillespie, the originator of the restaurant’s name and meat matriarch who first started serving food at an old hay market in the mid-’50s. Today her son, Giovanni, oversees the sprawling open fire charcoal pit. The style is a marriage between Kansas City and Memphis, and acolytes prize pieces of pork shoulder and, if available, outside shoulder. The restaurant finishes every styrofoam-boxed bounty with a liberal pour of delightfully goopy, nearly fluorescent sauce that assures the meat will stick to your ribs. Speed Queen is ideal for game time, late-night sobering up, family feasts, or any urge to pig out. If you can’t make it to Bronzeville, the restaurant’s sauces are available in bottled form throughout much of Wisconsin.

The Diplomat

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Chef and owner Dane Baldwin was named the 2022 James Beard Award winner for Best Chef in the Midwest, a loud recognition of this quietly elegant East Side nook. True to its name, the restaurant strikes a diplomatic balance between classy and comfortable. The dining room welcomes couples on date nights with Negronis, chicken leg confit, and octopus with calabrian aioli, while also catering to simpler, lizard brain appetites with the infamous Diplomac, a pristinely chef-ified recreation of a Big Mac. Baldwin’s prestige has helped restore some of the luster to Brady Street, making it once again a beacon for grown-up dining.

Glorioso’s Italian Market

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Glorioso’s is a microcosm of the evolution of Brady Street and the East Side Italian community. The grocery store, which opened in 1946, felt like a hangout in The Sopranos for much of its life, until it moved across the street in 2011 to a spot as bright and sprawling as a Whole Foods. Despite the shift in scene, you’re still properly covered for Italian specialties — guanciale, pecorino, giardiniera, endless olives — and sandwiches for the ride home: Italian beef, muffuletta, and something called the Human Torch, a ferocious battering ram of calabrese salami, capocollo, provolone, and hot pepper spread.

A free-standing display of wine bottles laid in wooden boxes in front of shelves filled with upright bottles of red and white wines
Italian wines on display
Glorioso’s Italian Market/Facebook

Birch feels fine-tuned for restaurant lists like this one, but chef Kyle Knall has come up with something singular and personal, building on his roots in Alabama, time spent cutting his teeth on the line at Gramercy Tavern in New York, and experience starting a touted spot in New Orleans. Since opening in 2021, Birch has felt rustic yet refined, focused and tight, with a menu heavy on charring, smoking, and wood-firing. Chicken under a brick, head-on shrimp, and fish served with carrot salsa and house-made tortillas are all Instagram-friendly showstoppers. But the restaurant really asserts its own story through down-home items like garlic focaccia or scorched flatbread with crispy guanciale.

Sanford

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Back when you had to have an actual book to know a restaurant’s Zagat score and a landline to make a dinner reservation, “san” and “ford” were the two syllables that spelled special occasion fine dining in Milwaukee. Along with his wife, Angie, Culinary Institute of America-trained Sandy D’Amato opened the restaurant tucked away in the Lower East Side in 1989, cornering the local market on white tablecloths, big city service, and finely tuned new American fare: seared foie gras, molasses-glazed quail, fennel-dusted beef tenderloin, and ultra-rare $200 bottles of Goose Island. Since 2012, it’s been run by D’Amato’s longtime chef de cuisine, Justin Aprahamian, with his wife, Sarah. The couple continues the tradition of excellence, and they keep the city’s foremost fine dining destination cool and quiet.

A bowl of broth with a pile emerging of Gulf shrimp, squid, asparagus, Brussels sprouts and noodles
Seafood ramen with Gulf shrimp and squid
Sanford [Facebook]

Ristorante Bartolotta

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You can pick a Bartolotta Restaurant Group spot for any upscale craving: contemporary new American (Bacchus), high-end French (Lake Park Bistro), dinner with a view (Harbor House), supper clubbing (Joey Gerard’s), steak (Mr. B’s), a rumpus (Rumpus Room). But for white tablecloth classicism and rustic Italian soul — spaghetti with duck ragu, risotto, house-made ravioli, smoked lamb stew, pan-seared scallops, tiramisu — the family’s Wauwatosa Village flagship has remained an inviting favorite for 30 years.

A plate of pappardelle with bits of meat and herbs
Pappardelle with duck ragu
Ristorante Bartolotta

Triciclo Peru

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As one-handable, self-contained protein pockets with endless variations, empanadas may be the perfect drinking snack. Triciclo banked on this theory, setting up shop for a residency at the Humboldt Park Beer Garden before launching a Washington Park-adjacent restaurant in late 2019. Now the brand can also be found food truckin’ between farmers markets from Brookfield to Shorewood, while the restaurant menu has expanded to include pisco cocktails, ceviche, and Peruvian entrees like arroz con mariscos. Snag supplies for your next few meals from the welcoming bar on Vliet Street: take-and-bake packs of frozen empanadas in classic flavors (shredded chicken, olive, raisin, boiled egg), new age (soy chorizo), and hometown (breakfast sausage, egg, Wisconsin cheddar). Don’t forget the cilantro sauce.

A tray of empanadas with dipping sauces and lime wedge
Empanadas
Triciclo [Official Photo]

San Giorgio Pizzeria Napoletana

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Whether or not you place any stock in a VPN badge (Vera Pizza Napoletana, the official designation of “true Neapolitan pizza” by Naples-based Associazione Verace Pizza Napoletana), San Giorgio produces objectively satisfying wood-fired pizza. With an airy, chewy crust, lightly charred undercarriage, proper leoparding around the edges, stretchy wet mozzarella, and bright San Marzano carnage for optimal pop on Instagram, any of the house pies might rank as the best in town. If possible, wait for your pickup at the pizza bar, where you can fall in love at first sight as your pizza emerges from the blaze of the 900-degree Stefano Ferrara oven.

A close up on two full pizza pies, one topped with arugula and the other topped with shaved meat and mushrooms, and glasses of beer and wine, all sitting on a marble bar
Pizzas on the marble bar
San Giorgio Pizzeria/Facebook

Lupi & Iris

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Fifteen years after claiming James Beard’s Best Chef in the Midwest award for his work at Lake Park Bistro, Adam Siegel, along with co-owner Michael DeMichele, earned a James Beard nomination for Best New Restaurant in 2023 with Lupi & Iris. The duo aren’t resting on their laurels at their high-style downtown digs. The restaurant plays host to an ever-expanding roster of special events — seven-course prix fixe tasting menus, casual Sunday suppers, jazz brunch — but French and Italian Riviera dinners remain the focus. The ricotta ravioli, branzino, chargrilled octopus, and olive oil cake give Lupi & Iris a claim as the new leader of Milwaukee fine dining.

Zarletti

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Before Milwaukee Street was a bastion of valet parking, special occasion dining, and well-heeled out-of-towners, there was Zarletti. With appetizers like crostini misti and house-made burrata, pastas including ravioli and ragu of the day, and entrees of osso buco and classic Bolognese, chef Brian Zarletti has turned family recipes into a restaurant that is both classy and warm, refined and comfortable. It’s a corner spot from a Billy Joel song, reminding everyone that top shelf service doesn’t have to be stuffy, that a neighborhood vibe can still be found in trendy downtown, and that there is no better dish than a well-made carbonara.

A plate of penne pasta coated in light tomato sauce topped with grated cheese and green garnish, with a sandwich blurred in the background
Pasta pomodoro
Zarletti/Facebook

Amilinda

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All it took was dinner at Odd Duck. That’s the moment chef Gregory Leon credits as inspiration to leave his San Francisco kitchen post and make Milwaukee home. After Leon has earned multiple James Beard nominations for Best Chef Midwest, this buzzy downtown nook of a restaurant continues to provide warm vibes, deep Spanish and Portuguese flavors, and a short, ever-changing menu that’s saucy and risky but still homey. A flank steak comes with prego marinade and chimichurri, a halibut with saffron broth and mustard oil. Amilinda might be the only spot in town for salmorejo, an Andalusian puree of tomato and bread, and one of the few to take dessert as seriously as dinner (think chocolate and olive oil mousse). 

A colorful arrangement of cook vegetables on green asparagus pate, garnished with mustard seeds and flowers
Asparagus pate with fennel, orange relish, and Roelli cheese
Amilinda [Official]

Alem Ethiopian Village

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Alem has been serving shareable Ethiopian entrees over spongy injera in the heart of downtown for over a decade. Vegetarian and carnivorous specialties include yemisir wot (slow-cooked lentils in red pepper sauce), steamed gomen, spicy doro wot with ayib (cottage cheese), and kitfo (steak tartare). African beers and wines, as well as ouzo-spiked tea, pair well with any convivial, family-style feast.

Cabbage, spinach, collards and red lentils on injera in a takeout container
Veggie combo packed for takeout
Alem Ethiopian Village [Official Photo]

Third Street Market Hall

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This sprawling emporium features TVs, video games, cornhole, shuffleboard, and the vibes of an adult recess, but it’s also one of the city’s best collective of calories. Housed in part of the urban carcass once known as the Grand Avenue Mall, the assemblage is a comfortable spot to bring the kids, take in a game, or, most importantly, see how much you can put away from the array of Peruvian chicken, tortas, arepas, pho, ramen, wings, pizza, and almost too many other options. Or you could just go for the consummate crowd pleaser, Dairyland, with its curds, custard, and eternal burger.

Story Hill BKC

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When the Black Shoe Hospitality team became semifinalists in 2023 for the James Beard Award for Outstanding Restaurateur it felt like a lifetime achievement sort of acknowledgment. The group has a steady history of thoughtful comfort fare, including upscale down-home Southern food at Maxie’s, inspired breakfast provisions at Blue’s Egg, and supper clubby fine dining at Buttermint. Story Hill BKC — that stands for bottle, kitchen, cup — combines the best of their efforts. It’s your friendly local neighborhood liquor store, if your local neighborhood liquor store also offered crepes, sirloin sandwiches with truffle peppercorn mayo, or cedar plank trout. Accented by warm wood and top tier hospitality, the restaurant feels like a friendly hidden gem in Milwaukee’s most hidden gem of a neighborhood.

A sandwich on a bun with layers of sliced rare steak, lettuce, and sauce.
Sirloin steak sandwich.
Story Hill BKC

Sobelmans

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Before you could get a solid burger everywhere, Sobelman’s set the town standard. With a buttery, glossy griddled bun, juicy patties, a blanket of three-cheese melt, fried onion, and diced jalapenos, the house burger is a consistent ideal. The Marquette campus-adjacent bar is also a fine old-school option for curds and for sampling Wisconsin’s most underrated cultural delicacy: a bombastic Bloody Mary, so chock full of garnishes it drinks like a meal, complete with a beer chaser.

Four plastic basket of burgers and fries, and a basket of fried fish with tater tots, along with sauces
Burgers at Sobelmans
Sobelmans [Facebook]

Bavette La Boucherie

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When it opened in 2013, Bavette seemed unique, European, and pricey — the kind of place you’d find in Chicago, not Milwaukee. Now, on the heels of owner Karen Bell’s fifth James Beard nomination, this whole-hog butcher shop and subtly sophisticated restaurant has come to feel more like an old friend. The lunch and dinner destination is fit for all levels of craving, with pimento and toast, the city’s best muffuletta, chicken liver mousse, and a corned beef tongue Reuben. In a fresh and expanded Third Ward home, Bavette’s growth feels indicative of the maturation of the city itself.

From above, a table filled with dishes, including steak, a charcuterie board, carpaccio, octopus, a burger, and tartar.
A full spread at Bavette.
Bavette La Boucherie

La Merenda

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Before you could find a small plate on every corner of Walker’s Point, La Merenda was the quiet forerunner, slinging international tapas in a reservations-required dining room. Now owner Peter Sandroni offers worldly brunch dishes at Engine Company No. 3, but his flagship will always serve Milwaukee’s quintessential shareable goods: pork and shrimp tostadas, seared trout, empanadas, duck confit poutine. Butter chicken somehow copacetically rubs shoulders with lamb bolognese, while goat cheese curds in chorizo cream sauce can go with anything or stand alone.

Three puff pastry shells filled with vegetables and shrimp topped with small piles of cream and shredded green garnish
Causa de camarones
La Merenda/Facebook

Allie Boy’s Bagelry & Luncheonette

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Allie Boy’s is the New York-level bagel shop Milwaukee didn’t know it needed — and then some. The bright Walker’s Point corner storefront slings sophisticated comforts including schmears and lox, house-made pickles and whitefish salad, cappuccinos, and wine spritzes. If noontime noshing is more your speed, the delightfully over-topped pizza bagel is as comfortable as grandma’s house, while the pastrami chop cheese bagel sandwich is shoulder devil sinful. There may be no better, or more decadent, destination for a quick and casual first meal.

La Dama Milwaukee

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It isn’t often, if ever, that one of the best, most beloved restaurants in town closes, reconceptualizes, and reopens with new focus and leadership. Formerly Crazy Water, La Dama now finds owner and chef Peggy Magister collaborating alongside longtime chef Emanuel Corona, who draws on flavors and techniques from his youth and roots around Puebla, Mexico City, and Oaxaca. One stomach won’t be sufficient for this gauntlet of food, beginning with tlayudas, chilitos rellenos, and oysters a las brazas. Then there are the tacos filled with duck carnitas and orange habanero salsa, tuna and horseradish crema, huitlacoche, or pork belly with black garlic puree. Out with the old, in with the nopalito.

A hanger-like open-air space with tables and cane patio chairs
Outdoor patio at La Dama
La Dama / Facebook

Guadalajara Restaurant

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Harkening back to the time when Walker’s Point was largely comprised of Latino families, this restaurant wears its years and peeling paint with pride, an excellent canvas for homestyle friendliness, classic Mexican cooking, and a whole lot of spice. Steaming bowls of menudo and pozole are hearty, fiery antidotes to your hangover or cold, respectively. The mole and birria simmer all day to produce vivid, earthy flavors. Of special note is the bistec en chile de arbol, tender, scraggly scraps of steak in a scorching silken mahogany sauce, which makes for a dangerous DIY taco mix. An arbol salsa is also available upon request to pro-level spice seekers, pleasing anyone with a penchant for mouth burn.

A two-story shingled building with brownstone facade on the first floor and a large illustrated paper sign advertising the Guadalajara Restaurant
Outside Guadalajara
Guadalajara Restaurant/Facebook

Thai Bar-B-Que Restaurant

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This sliver of Silver City is rife with far-reaching international soul. Mexican, Puerto Rican, and Laotian food, along with this Thai standout, populate a single intersection of National Avenue. The menu here is similarly expansive. You can bounce from fried quail or crispy chicken skewers to hot pots, larb, curries, or bowls of pho. The Thai barbecue pork noodle soup — served with jalapenos, chili garlic paste, and crushed dried peppers — is the all-star dish of any chilly Milwaukee night, its velvety, rich broth teeming with sunken treasures of pork. It’s hard to imagine a more sinus-singeing bowl of comfort.

Odd Duck

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When it opened on Kinnickinnic Avenue in 2010, Odd Duck instantly became the beating heart and culinary conscience at the center of the coolest neighborhood in town. Now owners Ross Bachhuber and Melissa Buchholz have their own building in Walker’s Point and a new neighborhood to conquer with their perfectly married small-plate ingenuity, rough-hewn DIY aesthetics, and buzzy vibe. The knowledgeable waitstaff and craft (but unfussy) cocktails are the same in the new digs, powering dinners that might include duck and ricotta ravioli, tempura-fried black pepper oyster mushrooms, or Vietnamese beef short rib. Start with some or all of the charcuterie, along with a Good Neighbor, the tequila and vermouth-based house cocktail, proceeds of which provide support to Milwaukee’s unhoused community. Trust your server’s advice from there.

Oysters on a decorative plate.
Oysters at Odd Duck.
Odd Duck

Chef-owner Dave Swanson’s Braise has been at the forefront of all things hip since opening in 2011. It offers cooking classes ranging from beginner to 10-week bootcamps, private rooftop dining, farm dinners, and locally and house-sourced groceries. It is also just a restaurant, where an ever-changing menu might skip through steamed pork buns, wild mushroom crostones, and beef kefta. There is such attention to detail that even the sourdough and whipped ramp butter can feel transcendent. Braise is Milwaukee’s pesky overachiever — which is what makes it so delicious.

Two back-to-back pork buns on a bed of chopped lettuce with crunchy fixings
Pork buns
Braise [Facebook]

Momo Mee

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Sichuan spice and soup dumplings. Nary a diner exiting Momo Mee won’t mention one or the other, many finding themselves transfixed, even changed by the experience. The former comes through with fierce, tongue-numbing thrills, not just tasted but felt, in dry-rubbed chicken wings or pork wontons in chile oil. The latter, xiao long bao, appear as unparalleled packages of savory comfort, handcrafted steamed dough pockets yielding slurpable porky broth. There’s also ramen and oodles of noodles, but anything else might seem benign next to the restaurant’s most spirited hits.

Various dishes on a table including mapo tofu, bao, noodles, and dumplings
Full spread at Momo Mee
Momo Mee

Damascus Gate Restaurant

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What began as a feel good story — a restaurant opened and operated by refugees of the Syrian civil war — has quickly morphed into the South Side’s go-to spot for basics like hummus and kebabs, everyday comforts like cheese pies and Turkish coffee, and signature Syrian dishes featuring chickpeas, bulgur, and the better part of a spice rack. Fattoush and kibbeh are must-order highlights year round, while Ramadan usually brings orders of whole lambs, stuffed with rice or freekeh, enough to feed 40 lucky friends.

A top-down spread of falafel, kababs, hummus, and other Syrian specialties
Dinner at Damascus
Damascus Gate [Official Photo]

Flour Girl & Flame

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Behold Milwaukee’s true renaissance restaurant. During warm-ish weather, you might catch this mobile wood-burning pizza operation at a farm night out in Oconomowoc, catering a wedding, popping up at a local beer garden or brewery, or just slinging slices out of next-door sister location, Everyone’s Ice Cream. The team also grow herbs and tend bees for hot honey at a cozy West Allis takeaway outpost, which truly hums during the cold months. The eponymous flame is housed in a 900-degree oven, a hellraiser from central Maine that imbues a smoky singe to everything it touches: standard pepperoni pies, over easy-topped breakfast numbers, and Detroit-style specials with racing stripes of tomato sauce and delightfully scorched crust.

Three Brothers

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You’ll be hit by the homey mood at the door of this old Schlitz tavern, which smells like grandma’s house when she’s been cooking all day. Tucked away in a still-quiet nook of Bay View, the Serbian stalwart features cash-only dinners and 45-plus-minute waits for flaky bourek, both indicative of a night out in a different time. The flavors on the dinner menu run the gamut: Serbian salad, goulash, musaka, chicken paprikash, roasted goose, chevapchichi (beef sausages). It’s meat-and-potato Eastern European fare for fighting off winter.

Palomino Bar

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Palomino is back — again. After undergoing a menu overhaul and aesthetic facelift a decade ago, then shuttering more recently for almost a year so the owners could focus on sister restaurants Honey Pie and Comet Cafe, Bay View’s iconic corner bar is again slinging its famous fried fare and Southern comforts. Curds are especially soothing, featuring a sheeny, batter-fried shell, the insides piping with liquefied Clock Shadow Creamery magma. Also of note is a crackly, crispy chicken thigh sandwich with zingy house hot sauce on a brioche bun. And, of course, there’s a burger: ground brisket, American cheese, just the right amount of special sauce. It’s once again an ideal spot to watch the Packers, Brewers, or anything other than your diet.

A large hunk of fried chicken sits close to the camera beside a pile of greens, bacon, apple slices, and onion slices, with a neon sign and bar in the background
Fried chicken at Palomino.
Palomino Bar/Facebook

The Vanguard

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Fatty old-world comfort meets modern technique and creativity at this sausage emporium that doubles as a laid-back watering hole. Eat like a glutton with style: jalapeno cheddar brats, Nashville hot chicken sausages, schnitzelwurst, an outrageously lavish burger made with a sausage patty and Velveeta, multiple poutines, fried curds with bacon aioli. To wash it down there are plenty of Midwestern brews and a bevy of signature house cocktails; the latter even come on draft, the embodiment of the Vanguard’s semi-serious spirit.

Two grilled sausages with deep cuts sit on a stir fry of broccoli, baby corn, and peanuts, with sauce and diced scallions for garnish, and a small pile of taro chips beside
Chinese pork and chicken liver sausage
The Vanguard/Facebook

Sze Chuan Restaurant

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There is Chinese food and then there is Sze Chuan. Word has spread quickly about the West Allis cult favorite, inspiring spice-seekers to make the trek away from the lake, toward cumin pork knuckles, dry pot intestine, sauteed spare ribs, pork kidney, or any of the many things from the voluminous menu doused in tongue-numbing, mind-altering Sichuan peppercorns.

Ventura's Taco Restaurant

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The standard food truck fare of Ventura’s two mobile locations likely won’t inspire thoughts of greatness, but the long-time-coming, teensy corner Bay View outpost delivers in unexpected ways. Peppery micheladas spice languorous feasts that might include chilaquiles and chuletas, guajillo-dripping pambazos and camarones a la diablo, svelte orange salsa on top of everything and house-made chorizo inside anything. Throughout, there’s a soft touch and level of care that brings this place of everyday Mexican favorites to destination status.

Anodyne Coffee Roasting Company

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Anodyne continues to quietly fine-tune small batch single-source roasts in the quest to become the ideal neighborhood cafe with the perfect pour. Stockpile beans and homebrew accoutrements, catch a show at the Bruce Street roastery, sip a nitro-line cold-brew (arguably the best non-alcoholic beverage in town), or grab a wood fire-kissed Neapolitan pie out of the Stefano oven at the bustling Bay View outpost.

From above, a table filled with various pizzas in different states of deconstruction, a few small plates with individual slices, utensils and glasses of beer
Wood-fired Neapolitan pizzas
Anodyne Coffee Roasting Company/Facebook

Twisted Plants

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“Plant-based” takes on a new, fun meaning at this weed-themed vegan burger joint that sprouted in a quiet corner of Cudahy and recently opened a second location amidst the bustle of Brady Street. You don’t have to smoke anything to feel lifted by the Superbad (onions, jalapenos, chipotle ranch), Pineapple Express (chipotle mayo, grilled pineapple), or the Up in Smoke (plant-based bacon and smokehouse sauce). The restaurant treats vegetarians and pleasantly surprised carnivores to soft pretzel buns, careful topping ratios, waffle fries, and skillful imposter burger patties, along with salads, cauliflower bites, and shakes.

Holy Land Grocery & Bakery

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Pillowy pita, baked daily at Holy Land, would be worth the cruise out to Greenfield if it were served plain — but there’s so much to fill it with: crackly falafel, creamy hummus, musabaha. Let the experts behind the counter pack your carb pocket with a juicy kabob; there are vertical spits of both chicken and a lamb-beef combo spinning into infinity, begging to be doused in creamy garlic sauce and eaten out of foil in your car. There is also a full halal butcher, aisles of groceries, and thick Arabian coffee. Choose between the assorted baklavas lining the checkout counter, the cheesy, syrupy kanafeh, or another imported or house-made dessert. It all adds up to the most flavor per square foot in southeastern Wisconsin.

A mound of strips of roasted meat topped with sauce in a plastic takeout container with sides
Meat-packed takeout from Holy Land
Holy Land Grocery & Bakery [Facebook]

Kopp’s Frozen Custard

Since 1950 Elsa Kopp’s frozen custard has been a local staple for creamy comfort. But it’s not simple sundaes that inspire treks to the three suburban locations. Their jumbo burgers have the charry-edged, beefy, buttery finish that all nouveau diner flattops yearn for. They are housed in starchy soft buns and draped in melty processed yellow cheese, but from there personalizations hold a mirror up to the eater. Do you like it simple with ketchup? Or do you need a thrill with hot sauce and jalapenos? Why not make it a double with bacon and bracingly stinky fried onions? However you order yours, eat it in the car with the radio turned to Bob Uecker covering a Brewers game. That is living your best Milwaukee life.

A hand holds a massive burger in front of a wall of foliage. The double burger is topped with cheese, onions, tomato, lettuce and pickles.
Double jumbo burger with lots of toppings
Kopp’s Frozen Custard/Facebook

Sherman Phoenix

Part social movement, part cultural hub, the Phoenix remains the beating heart of the Sherman Park neighborhood. After the civil unrest following a fatal police shooting in 2016, community leaders transformed a damaged BMO Harris Bank building into this sprawling collective of small businesses, most of them owned by people of color. Since then, it’s been host to a presidential campaign rally and nominated for a State Farm Building Blocks Award. On a quotidian level, it soothes with balms like gourmet popcorn, barbecue, and chicken wings from Brooklyn-based Buffalo Boss, and a smattering of culture, wellness, and fashion tenants whose offerings range from massage therapy to lash extensions.

Two restaurant workers in branded T-shirts stand behind a counter while a customer looks up at illuminated menus hanging from the ceiling behind the counter.
Ordering at the counter
Sherman Phoenix/Facebook

Lakefront Brewery

Lakefront started in 1987, but it somehow feels older, like it’s just always existed in Milwaukee. After the big boys that made Milwaukee famous, and before the boom of third-wave craft brewers sprouting up in the past decade, Lakefront was the most ubiquitous local beer of area bars and liquor stores. Nowadays you’re not really a Milwaukeean until you’ve taken one of the brewery’s famous tours or stopped by the live polka-fueled Friday fish fry. Lakefront keeps things fresh with stunts like a rotating weekly “curd of the day” and romantic private chalet dinners overlooking the fermentation cellar.

A row of small greenhouses fit with dining rooms along a riverfront
Private “hop house” outdoor dining pods
Lakefront Brewery [Official Photo]

Ardent

From James Beard to Food & Wine, recognition for the East Side’s premiere fine dining establishment continues to validate Milwaukee as a serious gastronomic destination. Chef Justin Carlisle curates a seasonal, ever-changing menu of high-minded new American food with manicured small plates and tasting menus that bound between caviar, tartare, and pear sorbet. Despite the showmanship and lofty ambitions, Ardent stays humble. The dining room is intimate, Carlisle sources from his family’s farm, and the vibe remains ‘Sconnie proud and unpretentious. You might even find a beer cheese pretzel among the snack options.

A chef adds the finishing touch to a row of meringue like puffs in a long vegetale-looking tube dotted with various colorful garnishes on a long ceramic plate on a prep station
Tweezing on the final touches
Kevin J. Miyazaki

Speed Queen Bar-B-Q

Since 1975, this nondescript, low-slung, windowless Walnut Street spot has blown plumes of porky smoke over the near North Side, eliciting a Pavlovian response from anyone within nose-shot. The kitchen utilizes the recipes of Betty Gillespie, the originator of the restaurant’s name and meat matriarch who first started serving food at an old hay market in the mid-’50s. Today her son, Giovanni, oversees the sprawling open fire charcoal pit. The style is a marriage between Kansas City and Memphis, and acolytes prize pieces of pork shoulder and, if available, outside shoulder. The restaurant finishes every styrofoam-boxed bounty with a liberal pour of delightfully goopy, nearly fluorescent sauce that assures the meat will stick to your ribs. Speed Queen is ideal for game time, late-night sobering up, family feasts, or any urge to pig out. If you can’t make it to Bronzeville, the restaurant’s sauces are available in bottled form throughout much of Wisconsin.

The Diplomat

Chef and owner Dane Baldwin was named the 2022 James Beard Award winner for Best Chef in the Midwest, a loud recognition of this quietly elegant East Side nook. True to its name, the restaurant strikes a diplomatic balance between classy and comfortable. The dining room welcomes couples on date nights with Negronis, chicken leg confit, and octopus with calabrian aioli, while also catering to simpler, lizard brain appetites with the infamous Diplomac, a pristinely chef-ified recreation of a Big Mac. Baldwin’s prestige has helped restore some of the luster to Brady Street, making it once again a beacon for grown-up dining.

Glorioso’s Italian Market

Glorioso’s is a microcosm of the evolution of Brady Street and the East Side Italian community. The grocery store, which opened in 1946, felt like a hangout in The Sopranos for much of its life, until it moved across the street in 2011 to a spot as bright and sprawling as a Whole Foods. Despite the shift in scene, you’re still properly covered for Italian specialties — guanciale, pecorino, giardiniera, endless olives — and sandwiches for the ride home: Italian beef, muffuletta, and something called the Human Torch, a ferocious battering ram of calabrese salami, capocollo, provolone, and hot pepper spread.

A free-standing display of wine bottles laid in wooden boxes in front of shelves filled with upright bottles of red and white wines
Italian wines on display
Glorioso’s Italian Market/Facebook

Birch

Birch feels fine-tuned for restaurant lists like this one, but chef Kyle Knall has come up with something singular and personal, building on his roots in Alabama, time spent cutting his teeth on the line at Gramercy Tavern in New York, and experience starting a touted spot in New Orleans. Since opening in 2021, Birch has felt rustic yet refined, focused and tight, with a menu heavy on charring, smoking, and wood-firing. Chicken under a brick, head-on shrimp, and fish served with carrot salsa and house-made tortillas are all Instagram-friendly showstoppers. But the restaurant really asserts its own story through down-home items like garlic focaccia or scorched flatbread with crispy guanciale.

Sanford

Back when you had to have an actual book to know a restaurant’s Zagat score and a landline to make a dinner reservation, “san” and “ford” were the two syllables that spelled special occasion fine dining in Milwaukee. Along with his wife, Angie, Culinary Institute of America-trained Sandy D’Amato opened the restaurant tucked away in the Lower East Side in 1989, cornering the local market on white tablecloths, big city service, and finely tuned new American fare: seared foie gras, molasses-glazed quail, fennel-dusted beef tenderloin, and ultra-rare $200 bottles of Goose Island. Since 2012, it’s been run by D’Amato’s longtime chef de cuisine, Justin Aprahamian, with his wife, Sarah. The couple continues the tradition of excellence, and they keep the city’s foremost fine dining destination cool and quiet.