At this relaxed, family-friendly pizzeria, 15 minutes north from downtown Cartagena, Italian Pietro Bramato and Colombian Judith Florez combine classic Italian dishes with local tastes. On the menu you can find grigliata di pesce (grilled fish), pasta carbonara, and ensalada maestro (greens with shrimp, avocado, and cherry tomatoes). But the husband-and-wife team also play to Cartagena preferences with a calzone accented with caramelized pineapple, shredded chicken with bechamel-like sauce on pasta and pizza, and fries topped with chorizo. Try the crowd favorite seafood pizza studded with shrimp, squid, clams, mussels, and other seafood. [$$]

The union of two families from Bolivia and Austria led to the creation of this elegant restaurant near the edge of the walled city. Located in a historic house with a lovely interior courtyard, Pomarossa incorporates smoking, curing, pickling, and preserving into upscale, tropical dishes. Empanadas, for example, come filled with smoked toyo (shark), Bolivian ají peppers, and suero costeño (similar to sour cream). Don’t miss the live reggae and calypso music that takes over the restaurant on Saturdays. [$$ - $$$]

Local celebrity chef Leonor Espinosa is known for her fine-dining restaurant Leo in Bogotá (in 2019 it earned No. 8 on the Latin America’s 50 Best Restaurants list and No. 49 in the World’s 50 Best Restaurants list). At her more relaxed Misia, with chalkboard menus and place mats decorated with cartoons, Espinosa gathers traditional and popular recipes from the Colombian Caribbean coast, offering simple breakfasts, fried snacks, and homey plates for dinner. [$$ - $$$]

Located on the first floor of Bastión Luxury Hotel, El Gobernador offers a menu designed by award-winning Bogotano chef Jorge Rausch. The chef applies haute French techniques to local ingredients, producing dishes including the risotto-like arroz cremoso with coconut milk, achiote (annatto), and cilantro, sea bass with Gruyere crust, fondue, and “leeks cappuccino.” Don’t skip dessert, when you might find pistachio dacquoise with compote of corozo and cotton candy. The space is divided into a main salon and a quiet mezzanine for more private diners, and there’s an outdoor patio where guests can enjoy lunch. [$$ - $$$$]

Moshi is an ode to pan-Asian cuisine interpreted with Colombian ingredients and local seafood. The concept comes from chefs Carmen Ángel and Rob Pevitts, the minds behind Carmen, located next door, and other restaurants scattered around Colombia. They anchor the menu with fusion dishes influenced by Japan, Thailand, Vietnam, and Malaysia. Bao come filled with fried fish, corn nuts, cabbage, and leche de tigre spiked with sofrito-like hogao sauce, while temaki contain shrimp, salsa rosada (mayo mixed with tomato sauce), red onion pickled in lime, and cilantro. Order a la carte in the restaurant’s modern yet cozy dining room, or opt for the omakase at the chef’s counter, but either way pair your meal with one of Moshi’s signature craft cocktails. [$$$ - $$$$]

Despite its exceedingly hip vibe, this unconventional comfort food spot offers some of the city’s best traditional Colombian food, made with ingredients sourced from small producers. The simple but tasty fare includes seafood served on plantain leaves, ceviches, refreshing agua frescas, and other surprises made with native produce. Opens from breakfast to lunch, La Mulata is a nice option for tourists or locals with flexible work schedules [$$ - $$$]

The Townhouse obligingly opens their rooftop to guests who aren’t staying at the hotel. The bar serves happy hour cocktails to droves of locals just as the sun sets over the domes and churches of Cartagena’s skyline, and the crowd tends to get a second wind from 8 p.m. to 1 a.m. If cocktails aren’t your thing, you can count on the bar for a pretty decent selection of wines and beers. Bar eats, like nachos, sliders, and chocolate fudge cake, are designed for sharing, so come with a group or prepare to make friends. [$$]

When the temperature rises and the beach calls, head to this gelateria near the water. The shop makes all its products from scratch without preservatives or hydrogenated fats. There are more than 100 different scoops, many of them inspired by Caribbean flavors like lulo, Kola Román (a local soda brand), corozo, sour guava, coconut-lemonade, and soursop. Less-tropical options include basil, white chocolate, and stracciatella, and the shop also offers juices, milkshakes, coffee, tea, and brownies. [$ - $$]

Chef Álex Quessep created the original Zaitún in neighboring city Barranquilla in order to honor his Colombian-Lebanese roots, placing equal weight on kibbehs and carimañolas. Mary Stella Zapa and her husband Fabián Cerro opened a franchise outpost to bring the unique flavor and warmth of Quessep’s fusion to Cartagena. The menu, orchestrated with Quessep, features seafood, falafel, hummus, stuffed cabbage and stuffed grape leaves, and their take on Cartagena-style sirloin cooked in a sauce of beef stock, cane sugar, vegetables, and clover. The restaurant is warm, if a bit kitschy, and there’s even a great menu of spirits and cocktails. [$$$$]

Chefs Juan Felipe Camacho and Alejandro Ramírez combine the gastronomic approach of a classic bistro with the traditional flavors of a Caribbean kitchen. The results are very fresh fish and seafood, classic Colombian cuts of meat, and plenty of local vegetables and fruits. The chefs offer dishes like crudo de róbalo (raw sea bass with cilantro, tapioca, and lulo), or pork ribs over a stew of lentils and arracacha (a local starchy root vegetable), while tropical desserts round out the neo-bistro experience. [$$ - $$$]

With two cafes located in the heart of the walled city, Época aims to capture the intensity and aroma of specialty beans from coffee-growing regions like Quindío, Risaralda, Santander, and Sierra Nevada. To complement the coffee, they also offer a variety of eggs and omelets, pancakes, French toast, Mexican and Colombian dishes, and pastries. Meanwhile, inventive cocktails feature aromatic infusions of cardamom, rosemary, coffee, or cacao, as well as syrups made from beets or cantaloupe. It’s the perfect place to get some work done, meet friends, or take a quick break from walking around the city. [$ - $$]

At this gastrobar ensconced in a beautiful old house, Peruvian chef Mariano Cerna satisfies the most demanding palates in the world with a fusion between his Peruvian heritage, Colombian ingredients, and contemporary techniques. He serves sophisticated preparations of lobster, duck, crab, and chicharron, among other specialties. The space contains a main dining room, terrace, and two bars, but wherever you sit, don’t miss the ceviche del viajero (fresh fish marinated in a leche de tigre of aromatic herbs, unripe mango pickles, and cilantro sauce). [$$$$]

A family-owned restaurant created by Diana Herrera, her sister María Carolina Herrera, and her mother Magaly Ordosgoitia, Malagana was one of the first major restaurants to open in the now-gentrified Getsemaní neighborhood. Their delicious fish tacos have earned a reputation in town, but the small menu also includes options like ceviche in coconut milk, shrimp and octopus dishes, and refreshing fruit-based cocktails. Malagana’s cute rooftop often echos with the lively sounds of zouk, salsa, compas, kizomba, reggae, and merengue. [$$]

Candy shop Portal de los Dulces has become an icon of Cartagena, nearly as famous as the landmark square in which it sits. Nestled in the Plaza de los Coches and framed by beautiful arches, the shop boasts a great view of the Clock Tower to enjoy as you sample traditional regional candies. You’ll find cocadas (coconut macaroons filled with guava or pineapple), cabellito de ángel (shredded papaya cooked in spiced syrup), tamarind balls coated in sugar, muñequitas de leche (milk caramels shaped into small dolls), and casabe filled with ripe plantain puree. [$]

Three Australians opened this cafe in the colorful Getsemaní neighborhood as a stepping stone for local disadvantaged youth, offering young workers opportunities to train social and technical skills. The hippie-chic restaurant embraces the country’s Creole roots while focusing on nutritious fare, with gluten-free and vegan offerings, global touches like falafel and Thai corn fritters, and all-day breakfast that ranges from sweet to savory. [$ - $$]

Open just over a year, Celele is one of the most successful restaurants in town, earning the Miele One to Watch Award for 2019 on the Latin America’s 50 Best Restaurants list. Star chefs Jaime Rodríguez and Sebastián Pinzón researched the area for four years before opening their restaurant, using the business as an opportunity to showcase handicrafts from local indigenous and rural communities. They serve a contemporary tasting menu and daily a la carte options, including traditional stew with slices of cured duck, pineapple vinegar, sweet ají peppers, and sour oranges over casabe. For dessert, try the traditional mingui, a puree of cooked plantain and pumpkin served with whipped coconut cream, granola made with local seeds and nuts, and coconut lemonade sorbet. [$$ - $$$]

This cute Getsemaní bar and tapas place, decorated with tchotchkes and twinkle lights, offers a wide array of Spanish dishes, including cochinillo (suckling pig) and pulpo, as well as small plates inspired by local flavors, like cassava gnocchi with chicharron and pico de gallo. There’s also a cheeseburger with manchego cheese and caramelized onion preserve, and a vegetarian burger with pumpkin and lentils. Lunático also serves brunch every day, with an open mimosa bar to boot. [$$ - $$$]

Cartagena didn’t have many decent cocktails bars in 2013, so the owners of El Barón opened this haven to classic drinks and cutting-edge mixology trends. They put clear effort into everything they do, from the ice cubes to the glassware to the decorations, but most of all the cocktails. Go for something fruity like the Pintor de Anécdotas with rye, oloroso sherry, banana-strawberry shrub, and blackberry-soy reduction, or feel the cooling tingle of the Arquitecto de Inviernos with eucalyptus-infused vodka, Fernet-Branca, aloe vera, and citric acid. The tapas menu shows off that dedication as well, with spicy fried chicken, lamb kofta, ceviche, shrimp rolls, and pork samosas. Located in the beautiful plaza of San Pedro Claver, the bar is the best place to relax with a drink after a nice walk around the walled city. [$$]

Named for the ’80s classic The Blue Lagoon (with decoration to match), this small, low-key restaurant offers about 10 fresh, tasty ceviches, alongside a variety of cocteles. Like ceviche, cocteles combine raw seafood with lime juice, but they’re enriched further with tomato sauce, salsa rosada, spicy salsa, or avocado drizzled with olive oil. [$$]

Anyone who can’t afford a coastal getaway will find a taste of seaside comfort food here. Although founder María Josefina Yancés has handed over her small restaurant to her nephew Christian Sepúlveda, the kitchen carries on her extensive work with traditional local foodways, paying tribute to biological and cultural diversity in the Caribbean. Typical ingredients include cassava, plantain, eggplant, chiles, beef, pork, hens, ducks, and plenty of fish from rivers and the sea. Look for mote de queso, boronía (eggplant and sweet plantain puree), pasteles and hallacas (types of tamales), gallina monteriana (chicken stew from Montería), or viuda de carne salada (salt-cured meat with garnishes). Seating is first-come, first-served. [$$]

Created by passionate chef Charlie Otero, Kazabe is a heartfelt tribute to the traditional cooking of the Bolívar region (where Cartagena is located). The restaurant celebrates rich Colombian ingredients and the country’s privileged geographic location with ceviche, carimañolas, rice and eggplant tamales, and mains featuring pork, fish, shrimp, and hen. To finish, there are tropical desserts like pie de mongo mongo (pie filled with unripe fruit conserve), cassava and coconut cake with anise seeds, and unripe mango cheesecake. [$$ - $$$]

Ely may be located at the heart of the touristy Bocagrande neighborhood, close to the main hotels and the beach, but the all-day cafe caters to plenty of Cartageneros too. Locals come to meet friends and neighbors for breakfast, post-lunch coffee, or just a break from the afternoon heat. The casual cafe boasts eclectic music, books to pass the day, and exceedingly friendly energy. Breakfast dishes range from light to self-indulgent, while daytime options include salads, bowls, hearty sandwiches, cakes and pastries, pressed juices, liquor from the well-provisioned bar, and local coffee and tea. [$ - $$]

Owned by ex-Olympic boxer Bonifacio Ávila and run by his wife Rosa Aurora Castaño (along with their children and grandchildren), this iconic kiosk has been serving hungry diners since 1975. Castaño focuses on traditional Cartagena classics like seafood cazuela (stew), fried fish, and arepa de huevo, accompanied by coconut rice, fried unripe plantains, and tropical salads. The drinks menu features fresh fruit juices alongside classic cocktails like the coco loco, pina colada, and margarita. [$$ - $$$]

If you’re after a substantial weekend breakfast, Dunia’s chicharron with bollo limpio (steamed corn cake) and suero costeño easily fits the bill. The cafe also offers fried doughy snacks, including arepas de huevo, empanadas, fried dumplings, and palitos de queso (cheese sticks fried or baked in pastry dough), all paired with tropical fruit juices. [$ - $$]

Getting to this magical spot takes 15 minutes by boat from Cartagena, but the trip is worth it for a slice of tropical paradise. The island resort serves tourists and local sunbathers with a broad menu for any appetite. There are light dishes such as ceviches, tiraditos, and refreshing cocktails, as well as hearty mains like paella, its cousin fideua from Valencia, and a vegan version of the rice feast, too. Along with salads, soups, and tacos, other must-try dishes include whole fried fish with coconut rice and patacones (fried plantains), and a great posta negra Cartagenera (a saucy Colombian-style beef dish). [$$ - $$$]

Portia Hart lived for many years in France’s Cote d’Azur before opening this 10-room boutique hotel and beach club inspired by the elegant lifestyle at the iconic beachside getaway. The menu at this club restaurant — located on Tierra Bomba Island about 30 minutes away by boat — features Caribbean dishes with a mix of flavors from southern France and the Mediterranean. Italian chef Elena Stoico leads the kitchen with a slow-food philosophy, turning out seasonal dishes from scratch and working with producers located as close as possible. Especially notable, the staff is made up of a mix of professional Colombian chefs and disadvantaged locals who hope to launch careers at the restaurant. [$$ - $$$]