The four Koki brothers opened this poke and seafood counter in a strip mall on the Windward side, scooping a combination of fresh and previously frozen fish (you can tell which is which by the prices). Fresh fish is featured in the more minimal preparations, like limu poke and one with ‘opihi (sharply briny Hawaiian limpets, pried off rocks in rough waters). Thawed fish is blanketed under a concoction of mayo and imitation crab, and topped with kimchi seasoning in the best-selling pau hana ‘ahi poke.

This beloved institution in central O‘ahu, dating back to 1978, is a mashup of an okazuya (old-school Japanese-style deli) and poke counter, which results in pairings like spicy ‘ahi and shrimp tempura poke bowls. It recently started offering food prepared to order, including tater tots topped with your choice of about a dozen varieties of poke, from wasabi miso tako to crunchy garlic ‘ahi. Despite its location outside of town, expect a line pretty much any time of day.

In industrial Kalihi, near a chicken hatchery, you’ll find Poke by the Pound, where big, fresh chunks of ‘ahi are mixed with island flavorings like oyster sauce with crunchy bits of fried garlic. It’s clear that less is more with the Hawaiian salt poke, which comes with just fresh fish, white onion, green onion, and coarse Hawaiian salt. The six or so offerings at any given time are premixed in small batches and available by the pound (of course), or scooped over vinegared sushi rice for a poke bowl.

For the closest poke to Honolulu’s fish auction, head to Nico’s. The business began as a takeout counter on the pier in 2004, but has since grown into an expansive sit-down restaurant, including an adjacent fish market. You’ll find about two dozen trays of premixed poke in the refrigerated case, including kim chee tako and spicy scallop, as well as classic poke flavors applied to fresh, local fish, including ‘ahi, aku, tombo (albacore), and marlin. 

Ginger scallion poke, a take on Chinese cold ginger chicken made with raw fish, has gained popularity in Hawai‘i in recent years. Few poke shops showcase restraint with the formula like Kahiau, which lets the fresh cubes of local ‘ahi shine in a mix accented with finely grated ginger and green onions. Other favorites at this tiny Chinatown spot include the taegu poke — soft, dried ‘ahi tossed in a sweetened, spicy sesame sauce that echoes the Korean side dish of seasoned dried squid — and the poke bomb: inari sushi topped with spicy ‘ahi poke, like bite-sized poke bowls.

Beer and poke go together like ‘ahi and shoyu, so a poke counter inside a liquor store just makes sense. The counter sells a mix of poke made with fresh and previously frozen ‘ahi, each clearly labeled. The multitudinous trays are proof that you can apply poke seasonings to practically anything: mussels, shell-on clams, crawfish, squid strips (aka imitation abalone), pipikaula (soft-dried beef), and tofu. In crab poke choices alone, Tamura’s offers everything from imitation crab to Dungeness crab (still in its shell), and has become notorious for what might be the most expensive poke ever, at more than $35 a pound, made with king crab liberated from its shell.

A second outpost in Kalama Valley, just past Hanauma Bay, has done little to lessen the crowds at the original Ono Seafood near Waikīkī. Long lines stretch out of both locations, but it’s worth the wait for the simple offerings from mother-daughter team Judy Sakuma and Kim Brug (and extended family). They highlight fatty, fresh chunks of ‘ahi and chewy tako (octopus), and preparations like the Hawaiian-style with crunchy limu, coarse sea salt, and nutty ‘inamona are mixed in small batches. Don’t wait to eat your poke bowl: Bliss is found in the pairing of cool fish and hot rice.

Junichiro Tsuchiya used to be a fish buyer at Tokyo’s Tsukiji Fish Market. “I know good fish,” he says, proudly. During the day, he and his brother run a seafood counter tucked inside Maunakea Marketplace in Honolulu’s Chinatown, and at night, a similarly tiny shop in Waikīkī, both serving impeccably seasoned poke alongside fresh sashimi. The Hawaiian limu poke has threads of crisp seaweed and a fine dusting of ‘inamona, while the ume shiso is a bright and delicate combination. Poke here is tossed to order. For an extra-luxe experience, crown your poke bowl with uni.