Magic Square launched in May as a 12-month incubator pop-up to showcase three previously unknown young chefs in a 1,000-square-foot space at Portsdown Road. Each month, one of the three chefs — Desmond Shen, Marcus Leow, and Abel Su — drives the borderless menu, nine courses that draw from the flavors and produce of Singapore. Sponsorship by the kitchen-appliance company Miele means Loon is able to price the dinner menu at a relatively low $78 (plus tax and gratuity) per head, a rarity in inflationary Singapore. From the July menu, Su’s duck liver tart, made with local duck and spiked with Hua Tiao wine, was a hit.

Restaurant Andre may have left the city, but its three-story conservation shop house space has been reimagined as the Singapore outpost of Stockholm’s three Michelin-starred Frantzen: Restaurant Zén. Recently opened with executive chef Tristin Farmer, Zen replicates the self-described Frantzen DNA of “Nordic kaiseki with French perfume,” rehashing signatures like the French toast with truffled consommé and the egg custard with 100-day-aged pork broth — with a few tweaks for the Southeast Asian audience. Prepare to set aside about four hours for Singapore’s priciest dining experience, which meanders from the kitchen to the dining room before ending in the living room.

Plugging the gap between street food and upscale Indian, Thevar serves authentic Indian flavors repackaged as small plates, but not as you know them. Named for its Penang-born Indian chef-owner, Mano Thevar, the restaurant serves butter mushroom in place of India’s famed butter chicken, but with grated paneer cheese and a heavenly piece of naan. And while you will not find mackerel curry in any traditional restaurants, the chef cooks a refined version here and serves it sandwiched with tomato chutney in warm and fluffy dosa. Chase it down with one of the Indian-inspired cocktails.

Natural wines are growing in popularity in Singapore, and Le Bon Funk is where you want to indulge. Choose from the constantly evolving list of 100 to 200 labels curated by head sommelier Josée Yeomans, whose current picks are mainly from Europe and Australia. Don’t miss the rustic dishes by Canadian-Japanese chef-owner Keirin Buck, the former sous chef of Burnt Ends, including a beef tongue gribiche sandwich and the cavatelli in tripe stew with ’nduja.

A stablemate of the one-Michelin-star Meta, Kimme serves modern interpretations of well-loved Korean flavors constructed with solid French cooking techniques, brought to you courtesy of Korean-born chef de cuisine Seok Hyun Ha. Set in a multistory conservation shophouse along Amoy Street, this bistro goes against the grain of most modern accolade-chasing restaurants by shunning the tasting menu, but nothing is missed a la carte. Highlights include dishes like kampachi sashimi in chive oil and gochujang and Korean-style steak tartare with sago (tapioca pearl) chip.

A major kitchen remodel and a chef change later, the one-Michelin-star Bacchanalia has re-emerged with black-and-white-checkered kitchen tiles and head chef Vianney Massot (formerly of L’Atelier de Joel Robuchon Singapore), who brings with him a flair for contemporary French cooking. For his opening amuse bouche, Massot pays tribute to Robuchon by way of foie gras crowned with smidgens of parsley-topped corn puree, while later courses show off his own style, like the yellow wine-glazed artichoke with foie gras mille-feuille. Mind the drinkable suggestions of sommelier Roberto Duran.

At his Frasers Tower restaurant, Colombian chef-owner Fernando Arevalo offers a seasonally changing thematic menu that showcases rarely seen gourmet ingredients like white beetroot and Piennolo tomatoes. His opening chapter, called Monochrome, is an inspired journey of black-and-white courses crafted mostly with produce from small producers. Lack of color doesn’t mean lack of flavor, however, as evidenced by the intensely savory squid ink powder-coated, slow-roasted pork with charred Piennolo tomato relish on a bed of apple and carrot puree. The monochrome-themed wine list by sommelier Chip Steel is just as striking.

Christophe Lerouy was propelled to the spotlight after he snagged a Michelin star for Alma as its chef de cuisine in 2016. A year later, he has stepped up to become chef-owner of his eponymous eatery at Stanley Street, where he has been steadily gaining attention for his unorthodox, modern French cuisine served in a 26-seat counter-only dining room. Perhaps it’s all the better to put the focus on the Alsatian chef’s daily changing carte blanche menu, full of light and punchy flavors like salt-baked cabbage with lardo, egg yolk puree, and lime gel in a parsley- and garlic-scented brown butter sauce.

At four years old, the Michelin-starred Restaurant Labyrinth at Esplanade Theatres on the Bay is hardly a new restaurant, but its recent menu reboot by chef-owner Han Li Guang that digs deep into Singapore’s little-known terroir makes it a more compelling destination than ever. Singapore may be small, but it’s home to a bevy of dairy farms and a clutch of kelongs (offshore fish farms), all of which you will discover when you commit to Han’s revamped 11-course tasting menu — think local clams served as a tart on deep-fried wonton skin and, for dessert, velvety sweet bean curd with local goat’s milk yogurt.

One-time Les Amis co-founder and former principal chef of the now-defunct Sky on 57 Justin Quek steps out of his French fine dining comfort zone to merge his Teochew heritage with modern French cooking. Aptly named Chinoiserie, the omakase-only restaurant at the Shoppes at Marina Bay Sands revives Quek’s former signatures, like foie gras xiao long bao (soup dumplings) in Jinhua dry-cured ham broth. There are also seasonal dishes, including a riveting summer showcase of Japanese ayu, or sweet fish, stuffed with wild mushrooms, scallop mousse, fermented soybeans, garlic, and chiles.

Eurasian-Peranakan chef Damien D’Silva makes his strongest debut yet with the arrival of Folklore inside the Destination Singapore Beach Road hotel. Taking residence in a corner of the perennially crowded hotel lobby, the restaurant doubles as the hotel’s breakfast venue, but the chef’s sought-after special menu — which showcases near-extinct historic local dishes — is only available at lunch and dinner. Be sure to try D’Silva’s buah keluak (Indonesian black nut) fried rice served with a sunny-side-up egg.