After stints in the kitchens at Racines des Prés, Le Saint James, Le Meurice, and Lasserre, chef Matthias Marc, 25, has opened this chic restaurant with indigo walls and white marble tables in the silk-stocking 16th Arrondissement. There’s a a superb list of Champagnes, including the cuvee by winemaker Jacques Selosse from which it takes its name, and a daring modern bistro menu. Working in an open kitchen behind a counter of red Italian marble, Marc sends oysters poached in their own juices with horseradish cream and pickled beets; free-range Normandy chicken with celery root, roasted in a crust of salt, alongside scorched onions and peppery nasturtium leaves; and tart tatin made with cider and fermented apple juice. The restaurant’s immediate popularity proves that this sedate eastern Parisian neighborhood is getting a new gastronomic zeitgeist.

After several years in New York City, where he made Racines one of that city’s best French bistrots a vins, Marseilles-born chef Frederic Duca has returned to Paris and opened a stylish bistro. Duca, who admits he’s nostalgic for Brooklyn, where he lived for three years, also brought home some of what he describes as New York’s “freestyle approach to modern cooking, with chefs drawing inspiration from kitchens around the world.” This shows up on his Provence-meets-the-world menu, with dishes like veal and razor clam tartare garnished with smoked ricotta and bergamot, an open tart topped with red mullet on sauteed onions, and yellow pollack with pumpkin, macadamia, and spinach rissoles. The bay leaf-flavored panna cotta is the dessert not to miss.

One of the prettiest restaurants on the Left Bank has gone back to its roots as a bouillon, a uniquely Parisian type of restaurant serving an affordable menu to a crowd in a hurry. Formerly a brasserie known as Montparnasse 1900 — a reference to its gorgeous Art Nouveau decor — the space has a new name and a new menu that offers expediently served, value-priced dishes like oeuf mayo for 2 euros, céleri rémoulade for 2.70 euros, choucroute alsacienne for 10.80 euros, roast chicken for 9 euros, and profiteroles for 4.20 euros. It’s open daily, too.

With restaurants in Paris and her post as head chef at the Connaught Hotel, Hélène Darroze is one of Europe’s most accomplished chefs. Now she’s reinvented  the Left Bank haute-cuisine restaurant where she first rose to fame with a new decor that banishes formality for intimacy. There’s an open kitchen on the first floor, anchored by a 1950s vintage wood-fired grill, while the second floor hosts 30 tables and 22-seat table d’hotes (like a set-menu chef’s table). The look of the duplex restaurant, designed by Patrice Gardera, is a very personal homage to Darroze’s origins in Marsan, the small southwestern French town where her family ran an esteemed eponymous restaurant for several generations. Darroze’s new menu also returns to her roots with a variety of dishes that reflect her love of southwestern French produce and traditional recipes, like escaoutoun, a polenta-like dish of cornmeal cooked in chicken bouillon and garnished with mascarpone, ewe’s milk cheese from the Basque Country, and mousseron mushrooms. There are also oysters in caviar gelee and wild salmon from the Ardour River, rolled in wood ashes and garnished with rhubarb. For something farther afield, try the dessert of Vietnamese chocolate with cumin and pickled lemons.

At long last there’s a terrific place to have a meal before or after a visit to the famous Marché aux Puces, the flea market on the edge of Paris in Saint Ouen. Chef Alcidia Vulbeau, who formerly cooked at Frenchie, opened this bistrot a vins with white-washed walls, bare wood tables, and some appropriately retro bric-a-brac a couple of months ago. It’s been crowded ever since with antique mavens and local bobos who love its great list of organic, natural, and biodynamic wines and eclectic menu. During the week, it serves two good-value prix-fixe menus — two courses for 15 euros, three for 18 euros at lunch — and then goes a la carte for the same meal on the weekends. In the evening, there are cheese and charcuterie plates, along with a weekend-only tapas menu. The chalkboard specials change regularly, but expect dishes like grilled leeks with crushed hazelnuts in soy-cider vinaigrette, soba with duck breast and grilled shiitake mushrooms, and barley risotto with cockles and mussels.

This new Romanian restaurant in the Sentier district — formerly Paris’s garment industry neighborhood and now one of its livelier and younger neighborhoods — looks a lot like an art gallery, with white-painted walls decorated with folk art, spotlights, and oak parquet. Working in an open kitchen, two award-winning young Romanian chefs are serving up what they describe as “neo-nostalgic” dishes, or riffs on traditional Romanian eats like pastramă, the roasted brined beef known as pastrami in most English speaking-countries, which comes to the table here covered with Transylvanian truffle shavings in a smoked-filled bell jar. There’s also sarmale, fermented cabbage rolls with meat-and-rice filling and a side of mămăligă cu smăntănă, a polenta-like cornmeal porridge with lashings of sour cream, and a rich nut-studded pistachio cake for dessert.

From the same team who opened the deservedly popular Les Arlots bistro next door, this new wine bar, not far from the Gare du Nord, also features the Gallic comfort food cooking of chef Thomas Brachet, as well as a broad selection of mostly natural and organic wines. The chalkboard menu changes regularly, but runs to dishes like braised octopus with Morteau sausage in Beaujolais sauce; blood pudding with potato puree; endive salad garnished with walnuts, radishes, potatoes, mushrooms, and hard-boiled eggs, topped with mayonnaise; and sandwiches, including one of roast pork with pickled carrots and cilantro pesto. No reservations, so get there early — this place is always packed.

In Nicoise dialect, “baieta” is the term for a little kiss. It’s also the name of young chef Julia Sedefdjian’s new restaurant in the Latin Quarter, and the word’s tender resonances come through in her very personal take on the cooking of Nice, her hometown, and Provence. One of the most rapidly rising chefs in Paris, Sedefdjian, 23, has been cooking since she was 17, and here she’s teamed up with two Martiniquais friends, Sébastien Jean-Joseph and Grégory Anelka, to create a place that’s hip — the black-and-white drawing on the wall is by their favorite tattoo artist — and relaxed, but impeccably professional in terms of both cuisine and service. Try Sedefdjian’s signature dishes: the jaune d’oeuf croustillante, a runny egg yolk inside of breadcrumb sphere, and the bouillabaieta, Sedefdjian’s delicate, deconstructed version of bouillabaisse. Or go for the caramelized pork belly with celery root puree, peanuts, and an herby green sauce; and the chef’s modern take on a classic cod with aioli and vegetables. Don’t miss the fennel shortbread with lemon cream, whipped mascarpone, lemon sorbet, and pastis for dessert, either.

At long last, one of the most beautiful restaurants in the world — whose sumptuous Belle Epoque dining rooms were unveiled in 1901 by French president Émile Loubet — once again has food that’s worthy of its palmy elegance. (Check out the wanderlust-inducing painting of the sunny southern destinations served by trains from the Gare de Lyon, the train station where the restaurant is located.) This is all thanks to the work of chef Michel Rostang and his daughters, who know run the place. Get here early before a trip or celebrate an arrival in Paris with dishes like a pate en croute of wild game and foie gras, quenelles de brochet (fluffy pike perch dumplings, a speciality of Lyon) in Newburg sauce, Sole Bonne Femme, and Poulet de Bresse — possibly the world’s best chicken — in a tarragon cream sauce with grilled Basmati rice. Profiteroles with vanilla ice cream and hot chocolate sauce are served from a tableside trolly, and note that the restaurant is open daily for lunch and dinner.

Franco-Filipino sisters Tatiana and Katia Levha are on a roll. After the success of their nearby bistro, Le Servan, they opened Double Dragon — an instantly popular new spot serving their take on comfort food from the Philippines, Hong Kong, and elsewhere in the East. Dishes include braised beef spring rolls with shiso leaves, chilled cucumber with lemongrass, crispy chicken on rice, tofu with X.O. sauce, and caramelized pork cheeks. No reservations, so be in line when the doors open, or come late. And if you’re heading for Marseilles anytime soon, the sisters are also signing the menu at the restaurant of the new hotel Les Bords de Mer in that city.

Chef-owner Cyril Lignac has given this historic bistro a new seafood menu and a visual makeover by London-based interior architect Martin Brudnizki. The new look includes plush ribbed red velvet banquettes, a harlequin floor, and a mural of trees that reaches to a ceiling framed by original Belle Epoque moldings. The young, style-conscious crowds seem to dig it, and tuck into dishes like prawns with chipotle mayonnaise, oysters with grilled sausages, salmon in Thai bouillon, langoustine ravioli, and scallops with Jerusalem artichokes and black truffles.