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Harbinger
Photo: Harbinger / Facebook

The 11 Hottest New Restaurants in Des Moines, Iowa

Where to find Southern comfort food, all-day breakfast, and fancy small plates in Iowa’s capital city

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Harbinger
| Photo: Harbinger / Facebook

For the first time, Eater visits Des Moines, Iowa, to check in on 11 new restaurants and bars that have been garnering some serious buzz. Former Des Moines Register dining reporter and current Eater Vegas editor Susan Stapleton has kindly offered up her picks for the hottest openings of the past 12 months.

“Surrounding farmlands fill local kitchens with fresh produce and proteins,” Stapleton says of Des Moines restaurants right now. Among her selections: a vegetable-focused tasting menu from a James Beard-nominated chef (Harbinger), an all-day cafe from some New York City industry vets (St. Kilda Cafe & Bakery), and the restaurant offshoot of a renowned cheese shop (the Cheese Bar).

Without further ado, and in geographic order, the Eater Heatmap to Des Moines:

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Saison Kitchen + Pub

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David Baruthio, a 2011 James Beard Best Chef: Midwest nominee, is responsible for the best French restaurant in Des Moines, Baru 66, but his newest venture, located practically next door, is far more casual. Instead of foie gras and degustation menus, Saison focuses on pub fare, with a menu of sliders including pulled pork, toasted cheese, and tenderloin schnitzel, a variation of Iowa’s coveted breaded pork tenderloin. Heartier fare includes a farmhouse skillet with fried eggs and steak or lamb ragout over orecchiette pasta.

Steak at Saison Kitchen + Pub
Photo: Saison Kitchen + Pub

The Cheese Bar

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Cheese, cheese, and more cheese make up the menu at this offshoot of the city’s famous Cheese Shop, known for serving 100-plus artisan and farmhouse cheeses. At the Cheese Bar, fondue made with Gruyere 1655, Reading raclette, and Emmental; raclette poured over confit potatoes; and an array of grilled cheeses warm the belly. Adventurous eaters should head to the “Smörg” section of the menu for truly memorable open-faced Scandinavian sandwiches with corned beef and Hook’s blue paradise cheese, or order the “soon to be world famous” cast-iron mac and cheese. Diners eat at communal dining tables where they can get to know their neighbors.

Mac and cheese at the Cheese Bar
Photo: The Cheese Bar / Facebook

Harbinger

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The James Beard Foundation smiled down on Joe Tripp twice with Best Chef: Midwest nominations for his work at Alba in the East Village. Tripp travels to Southeastern Asia yearly for a training in the cooking techniques that inspire his vegetable-focused Harbinger in the Ingersoll neighborhood. Tripp takes a “create-your-own tasting menu” approach to the restaurant, using ingredients from Iowa to prepare small dishes meant to share. This is the third restaurant from owner Jason Simon, himself a JBF nominee.

Black Cat Ice Cream

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Look for the long lines snaking around the side of bar the Gas Lamp to find the tasty ice cream scoops at Black Cat. Alex Carter, a former pastry chef at Table 128, switches out the flavors frequently, but past flavors have included birthday cake, red velvet with Oreos, cookie monster, oatmeal cream pie, sweet corn with caramel and bacon, and even vegan flavors like coconut chocolate chip. Walk over to the Pappajohn Sculpture Park across the street to enjoy your ice cream with a view.

Black Velvet Oreo ice cream at Black Cat
Photo: Black Cat Ice Cream / Facebook

Bubba Southern Comforts

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Orchestrate Hospitality brought Des Moines the wildly popular Zombie Burger along with Italian fare at Centro, French at Django, and Mexican at Malo. And last year, the restaurant group opened Bubba with a menu of Southern comfort foods and a wall of whiskeys, all wrapped in a bow tie of a restaurant. Kentucky hot browns, chicken-fried steak, a pimento mac and cheese, and Dr Pepper-braised short ribs all bring a taste of Dixie to downtown Des Moines.

Fried chicken at Bubba
Photo: Bubba / Facebook

Hello, Marjorie

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The former home of the Des Moines Register and Tribune was converted into condominiums in 2017 with retail operations on the bottom level. With these came the cocktail lounge that downtown Des Moines sorely needed. Hello, Marjorie brings a retro touch to the decor and the cocktails. Customers can sip on the Editor’s Note with bourbon, apricot liqueur, and apple bitters in a space decked out with a late-1950s Wurlitzer spinet piano and watched over by namesake Marjorie Anderson’s portrait.

Hello, Marjorie
Photo: Hello, Marjorie / Facebook

St. Kilda Cafe & Bakery

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Something about Des Moines draws natives home after they’ve left for a spell. That’s the case with St. Kilda Cafe & Bakery, the child of Urbandale native Whitney Hall and her husband, London-born and Australia-raised Alexander Hall. The couple owned five cafes in New York City before returning to Des Moines. At their first restaurant in this city, they serve breakfast and lunch all day long, meaning country smashed peas and eggs with Iowa-made La Quercia coppa picante or beet-hummus toast are available starting at 7 a.m. on weekdays and 8 a.m. on weekends. White oak tables, wooden beams overhead, exposed brick, and concrete floors left over from the restaurant’s former life as a furniture warehouse give it an airy feel at any hour.

A breakfast bowl at St. Kilda Cafe & Bakery
Photo: St. Kilda Cafe & Bakery

Goldfinch

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The gold and black goldfinch is the state bird of Iowa, and in Des Moines, it now has its own restaurant. Goldfinch’s calling card is a menu filled with local products from gems such as La Mie Bakery, La Quercia, Milton Creamery, Niman Ranch, Picket Fence Ice Creamery, Rinehart’s Family Farm, Story City Locker, Sunstead Farms, and Wilson’s Orchard. Come here to taste “contemporary Midwest cuisine” right in the heart of the Des Moines Farmers Market, which takes over Court Avenue every Saturday from May through late October.  

Scallops at Goldfinch
Photo: Goldfinch / Facebook

The Republic on Grand

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The sixth floor of the new AC Hotel by Marriott sports one of the buzziest new bars in Des Moines. One patio of the East Village bar features views of the state capitol to the west, while the other overlooks Principal Park, home of the Triple A Iowa Cubs. The East Village bar is nothing like a hotel bar except in its decor, which includes velvet couches and chairs, wood-paneled walls, and a marble bar. Light snacks such as avocado fries, smoked trout toast, and a goat cheese terrine with crostini pair well with cocktails including the Sherman Hill with Iowa’s own Templeton Rye whiskey, bitters, aronia berry, simple syrup, and orange and lemon juice.

Bacon jam sliders at the Republic On Grand
Photo: The Republic on Grand / Facebook

Peace Tree Brewing Co. — Des Moines Branch

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Iowans take their beer seriously, and now, one of the best breweries in the state has opened a taproom in the East Village. Like many brewers in Iowa, brewmaster Joe Kesteloot got his start as a homebrewer before creating the sophisticated beers at Peace Tree. The 25 taps inside the renovated Quonset hut include Blonde Fatale, Red Rambler, and No Coast IPA year-round. Drinkers here can also try some seasonal and small-batch beers not found anywhere else.

Beer at Peace Tree Brewing
Photo: Peace Tree Brewing / Facebook

Marlene's at Sevastopol Station

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Des Moines landed a star when Jacob Demars took over the kitchen at Marlene’s at Sevastopol Station in August. Before bringing his elegant touch to Marlene’s, he spent time at Michelin-starred Chicago restaurants Spiagga and Elizabeth Restaurant. As at most restaurants in Des Moines, the menu changes depending on what’s in season, but a seared scallop with curried poblano and cauliflower from Demars’s Open Circuit Dining pop-up dinner days is worth an order.

Bok choy at Marlene’s
Photo: Marlene’s / Facebook

Saison Kitchen + Pub

David Baruthio, a 2011 James Beard Best Chef: Midwest nominee, is responsible for the best French restaurant in Des Moines, Baru 66, but his newest venture, located practically next door, is far more casual. Instead of foie gras and degustation menus, Saison focuses on pub fare, with a menu of sliders including pulled pork, toasted cheese, and tenderloin schnitzel, a variation of Iowa’s coveted breaded pork tenderloin. Heartier fare includes a farmhouse skillet with fried eggs and steak or lamb ragout over orecchiette pasta.

Steak at Saison Kitchen + Pub
Photo: Saison Kitchen + Pub

The Cheese Bar

Cheese, cheese, and more cheese make up the menu at this offshoot of the city’s famous Cheese Shop, known for serving 100-plus artisan and farmhouse cheeses. At the Cheese Bar, fondue made with Gruyere 1655, Reading raclette, and Emmental; raclette poured over confit potatoes; and an array of grilled cheeses warm the belly. Adventurous eaters should head to the “Smörg” section of the menu for truly memorable open-faced Scandinavian sandwiches with corned beef and Hook’s blue paradise cheese, or order the “soon to be world famous” cast-iron mac and cheese. Diners eat at communal dining tables where they can get to know their neighbors.

Mac and cheese at the Cheese Bar
Photo: The Cheese Bar / Facebook

Harbinger

The James Beard Foundation smiled down on Joe Tripp twice with Best Chef: Midwest nominations for his work at Alba in the East Village. Tripp travels to Southeastern Asia yearly for a training in the cooking techniques that inspire his vegetable-focused Harbinger in the Ingersoll neighborhood. Tripp takes a “create-your-own tasting menu” approach to the restaurant, using ingredients from Iowa to prepare small dishes meant to share. This is the third restaurant from owner Jason Simon, himself a JBF nominee.

Black Cat Ice Cream

Look for the long lines snaking around the side of bar the Gas Lamp to find the tasty ice cream scoops at Black Cat. Alex Carter, a former pastry chef at Table 128, switches out the flavors frequently, but past flavors have included birthday cake, red velvet with Oreos, cookie monster, oatmeal cream pie, sweet corn with caramel and bacon, and even vegan flavors like coconut chocolate chip. Walk over to the Pappajohn Sculpture Park across the street to enjoy your ice cream with a view.

Black Velvet Oreo ice cream at Black Cat
Photo: Black Cat Ice Cream / Facebook

Bubba Southern Comforts

Orchestrate Hospitality brought Des Moines the wildly popular Zombie Burger along with Italian fare at Centro, French at Django, and Mexican at Malo. And last year, the restaurant group opened Bubba with a menu of Southern comfort foods and a wall of whiskeys, all wrapped in a bow tie of a restaurant. Kentucky hot browns, chicken-fried steak, a pimento mac and cheese, and Dr Pepper-braised short ribs all bring a taste of Dixie to downtown Des Moines.

Fried chicken at Bubba
Photo: Bubba / Facebook

Hello, Marjorie

The former home of the Des Moines Register and Tribune was converted into condominiums in 2017 with retail operations on the bottom level. With these came the cocktail lounge that downtown Des Moines sorely needed. Hello, Marjorie brings a retro touch to the decor and the cocktails. Customers can sip on the Editor’s Note with bourbon, apricot liqueur, and apple bitters in a space decked out with a late-1950s Wurlitzer spinet piano and watched over by namesake Marjorie Anderson’s portrait.

Hello, Marjorie
Photo: Hello, Marjorie / Facebook

St. Kilda Cafe & Bakery

Something about Des Moines draws natives home after they’ve left for a spell. That’s the case with St. Kilda Cafe & Bakery, the child of Urbandale native Whitney Hall and her husband, London-born and Australia-raised Alexander Hall. The couple owned five cafes in New York City before returning to Des Moines. At their first restaurant in this city, they serve breakfast and lunch all day long, meaning country smashed peas and eggs with Iowa-made La Quercia coppa picante or beet-hummus toast are available starting at 7 a.m. on weekdays and 8 a.m. on weekends. White oak tables, wooden beams overhead, exposed brick, and concrete floors left over from the restaurant’s former life as a furniture warehouse give it an airy feel at any hour.

A breakfast bowl at St. Kilda Cafe & Bakery
Photo: St. Kilda Cafe & Bakery

Goldfinch

The gold and black goldfinch is the state bird of Iowa, and in Des Moines, it now has its own restaurant. Goldfinch’s calling card is a menu filled with local products from gems such as La Mie Bakery, La Quercia, Milton Creamery, Niman Ranch, Picket Fence Ice Creamery, Rinehart’s Family Farm, Story City Locker, Sunstead Farms, and Wilson’s Orchard. Come here to taste “contemporary Midwest cuisine” right in the heart of the Des Moines Farmers Market, which takes over Court Avenue every Saturday from May through late October.  

Scallops at Goldfinch
Photo: Goldfinch / Facebook

The Republic on Grand

The sixth floor of the new AC Hotel by Marriott sports one of the buzziest new bars in Des Moines. One patio of the East Village bar features views of the state capitol to the west, while the other overlooks Principal Park, home of the Triple A Iowa Cubs. The East Village bar is nothing like a hotel bar except in its decor, which includes velvet couches and chairs, wood-paneled walls, and a marble bar. Light snacks such as avocado fries, smoked trout toast, and a goat cheese terrine with crostini pair well with cocktails including the Sherman Hill with Iowa’s own Templeton Rye whiskey, bitters, aronia berry, simple syrup, and orange and lemon juice.

Bacon jam sliders at the Republic On Grand
Photo: The Republic on Grand / Facebook

Peace Tree Brewing Co. — Des Moines Branch

Iowans take their beer seriously, and now, one of the best breweries in the state has opened a taproom in the East Village. Like many brewers in Iowa, brewmaster Joe Kesteloot got his start as a homebrewer before creating the sophisticated beers at Peace Tree. The 25 taps inside the renovated Quonset hut include Blonde Fatale, Red Rambler, and No Coast IPA year-round. Drinkers here can also try some seasonal and small-batch beers not found anywhere else.

Beer at Peace Tree Brewing
Photo: Peace Tree Brewing / Facebook

Marlene's at Sevastopol Station

Des Moines landed a star when Jacob Demars took over the kitchen at Marlene’s at Sevastopol Station in August. Before bringing his elegant touch to Marlene’s, he spent time at Michelin-starred Chicago restaurants Spiagga and Elizabeth Restaurant. As at most restaurants in Des Moines, the menu changes depending on what’s in season, but a seared scallop with curried poblano and cauliflower from Demars’s Open Circuit Dining pop-up dinner days is worth an order.

Bok choy at Marlene’s
Photo: Marlene’s / Facebook

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