Tucked in Belém, Michelin-starred Feitoria brings Portugal’s best produce to the table. Chef João Rodrigues merges high-caliber techniques with traditional dishes, assimilating each note of flavor to create an unforgettable experience. He also sources a selection of top ingredients (organic local vegetables, seafood from the Portuguese coast) from producers all over the country, some of whom he met while working on Projecto Matéria, a five-year expedition to map and highlight the nation’s best food makers. [$$$$]

The Frade family originally opened their namesake restaurant in the 1960s in Beja, in the Alentejo region. When third-generation cousins Carlos Afonso and Sérgio Frade moved to Lisbon to study, they decided to pay homage to the traditional family venue and its recipes at a new restaurant in the capital. Afonso prepares traditional Portuguese dishes with a modern take, like coelho de coentrada (cold rabbit meat with coriander sauce), empadas, and his skillful version of arroz de pato (duck rice, here with orange zest and other modernizations). Frade is in charge of the bottles list, which includes the amphorae wines the family still produces in Alentejo. [$$]

André Fernandes worked as a cook in several Michelin-starred restaurants before taking off to work in kitchens from Southeast Asia to Central America. When he returned home, he opened an informal restaurant in Alcântara, infusing easygoing, modern cuisine with tastes from the places he traveled and worked. Expect tasty and seasonal dishes focused on fish and vegetables, topped with Basque pil-pil (cod and garlic sauce), alongside sauces and seasonings from Mexico, Italy, and France. Fernandes has a knack for balancing complex flavors, like John Dory cured in seaweed with apricot chutney, or spider crab with miso beurre blanc. [$$]

You will find petiscos (Portuguese tapas) in some form at many restaurants, but the modern, casual Tasca da Esquina in Campo de Ourique takes these snacks to another level. Chef Vítor Sobral (known as the father of contemporary Portuguese cuisine) recreates tasty dishes like cockles with lemon, octopus salad with sweet potato and coriander, and bacalhau à brás (salted cod mixed with fried onion and potato). [$$]

There’s really only one reason to go to A Valenciana, whether you choose to take out or eat in the old-fashioned dining room: the ridiculously cheap and tasty charcoal-grilled piri-piri chicken, a local favorite. When perfectly done, as it is here, the chicken is moist inside with crispy skin. Wash it down with a beer or two. [$]

Despite having some of the best fish in the world, Lisbon doesn’t have many good sushi restaurants to rival Tokyo, New York, or London. This 12-seat counter, run by chef Lucas Azevedo, is a surprising exception. Tucked in the center of Parque Eduardo VII, with panoramic windows overlooking the lake, the restaurant brought the “beach to the park,” as its name indicates. Translucent fish cuts and subtle, precise sushi come from the hands of the skilled sushi man, who also prepares the best shari in the city. Expect a profusion of nigiri, futomaki, and sashimi, plus hot dishes and luscious desserts to finish your meal. [$$$]

Located near the national parliament, Café de São Bento is the place to go for late-night dining or any time of day you’re desperate for an old-school steak. The meat is served grilled or fried, with chips (or french fries), signature sauce, and esparregado (spinach puree). The service is amiable, while the room is stuffed with red sofas and dark wood furniture, a classic mix of decadence and elegance. It all pairs perfectly with the throwback character of the food. [$ - $$]

This shop’s motto, “great products from small producers,” pretty much sums it up. When Rita Santos left her career as a tech executive, she traveled the country meeting people who produce craft foods before opening a grocery store and deli dedicated to their artisanal products. Along with packaged goods to go, the store offers prepared foods like smoked sardines, pickled anchovies, cheeses and cured meats, and sandwiches. They also serve local craft beers and natural wines, offered by the bottle for a small corkage fee or by the glass from a daily selection. [$]

Every big city should have a bistro to call its own, a place like BouBou’s in the Principe Real neighborhood. An alum of Alain Ducasse’s empire, chef Louise Bourrat runs the all-women kitchen, while her brother Alexis takes care of the guests in the dining room — never letting anyone run out of wine. The dishes focus on fresh Portuguese ingredients, mainly seafood and vegetables, with global inspirations. The atmosphere is cheerful, and the service is efficient to boot. [$$]

The cocktail scene in Portugal is booming, and Red Frog is to blame. The bar has the intimate vibe of a classic Prohibition-era speakeasy, but the drinks are made with modern techniques involving centrifuges and sous-vide machines. Think sea fennel in a gimlet, a tequila cocktail with black garlic, and drinks featuring other traditional Portuguese ingredients like carob, Port, and even a clarified custard tart. To eat, a short but efficient menu pairs well with the alcohol. [$$]

If you don’t already love pasteis de nata, Portugal’s worldwide dessert hit, you probably will after trying Manteigaria’s version. This is the perfect place to introduce yourself to the sweet, creamy custard tarts. Grab one, raise it to your nose, then squeeze it gently using your fingers and listen to the gentle crackling sound it makes. The pinch of powdered cinnamon on top is a sign of Portuguese authenticity. [$]

Until recently, Lisbon-born chef Nuno Mendes worked abroad, leaving local diners without an opportunity to taste the expert chef’s creative dishes in his hometown. That changed when the luxury Bairro Alto Hotel opened its doors in 2019 with a Mendes signature restaurant. After taking time off during the pandemic, Mendes is back at Bahr, showing love for Portuguese cuisine in his takes on traditional dishes such as carabineiro (scarlet shrimp) rice, bife de cebolada (aged beef loin and onion gravy), and farófias (poached meringue) served here with lemon leaf and cured egg yolk. His tosta de percebes (smoked goose barnacles served on toast) has become an instant hit in the city. [$$$]

This two-story restaurant between charming Chiado and nightlife hub Bairro Alto is restless chef Ljubomir Stanisic’s fancy, funky, punk-chic, no-bullshit, fine-dining flagship. Start with a cocktail at the bar (among the best in town) and then, at the table, go for a burek (an homage to the chef’s Serbian roots), the mushroom and asparagus salad with poached egg, the beetroot tartare, the whole fish of the day, or anything that catches your eye. [$$$]

In Portugal, bread is a religion. And in Lisbon, Isco, located in the Alvalade neighborhood, is one of its sanctuaries. Along with a hundred loaves of bread in different shapes and flavors that come out of the ovens every day, guests can enjoy a few dishes and sandwiches (crispy chicken with pickles, sardines, or tortilla with tomato) created by chef Natalie Castro. Enjoy your meal with another edible sacred to the Portuguese people: wine. There’s a significant list to wash down all those carbs. [$$]

With three floors, five rooms, and more than 200 seats, Solar dos Presuntos looks like a tourist trap, but it isn’t. The downtown restaurant is a good place for those looking for grilled fish and meat, traditional Portuguese dishes (mainly from the north), and good wine. This is a perfect place to try classics like pastéis de bacalhau (cod fritters), John Dory fillets with tomato rice, açorda de marisco (bread stew with seafood), or roast goat. [$$]

Famous chef José Avillez owns a restaurant empire in town, including venues from a bar to a pizzeria to an entire Portuguese bairro. With its two Michelin stars, Avillez’s Belcanto, at the heart of the charming neighborhood of Chiado, is the most acclaimed fine dining venue in Lisbon. Here, the chef prepares modern Portuguese dishes, served a la carte or on two conceptual tasting menus. Explore Portugal through his creative takes on tasty classics like suckling pig and cozido à Portuguesa (Portuguese pot-au-feu). [$$$$]

It is impossible to pass by this corner pastry shop in Chiado without stopping to marvel at all the mouthwatering sweet treats that fill the window. The sugary, eggy tarts and pastries are made according to centuries-old traditional recipes developed by Cistercian monks in the monastery of Alcobaça, where the original Alcôa was founded in 1957. Many baked goods even come with religious names like queijinhos do céu (heaven’s cheese), ovos do paraíso (eggs of paradise), and toucinho do céu (bacon from heaven). [$]

Vincent Farges is one of the most talented chefs working in Portugal. In the Chiado district, the French chef leads and co-owns the fine dining, Michelin-starred Epur, where he combines French cooking technique, Portuguese produce, and influences from around the globe. He stocks exceptional fresh ingredients, and treats his diners in a contemporary, intimate space with a stunning view of the Tagus river. [$$$$]

After living in other European cities like Paris and London (his hometown), British Nigerian chef Shay Ola set down in Lisbon for a new adventure. Queimado is a casual restaurant in the Baixa neighborhood where Ola devotes himself to cooking mostly with fire (in English, queimado means “burnt”). The regularly changing menu of shareable dishes is short, but there are always good options for vegetarians and vegans, such as chanterelles with cauliflower rice and black lime, or a salad of broad beans, loquat, and fresh cheese. Ola also hosts pop-up events, featuring guest chefs, like a recent display from The Future of Food is Female. [$$]

This unassuming but elegant, modern restaurant in the downtown Sé area has been a mandatory visit since it opened in 2017, thanks mainly to talented chef Antonio Galapito, who creates recipes that are luscious, creative, and beautiful. The former sous chef under acclaimed chef Nuno Mendes while they were both in London, Galapito focuses his micro-seasonal menu at Prado on organic ingredients from Portuguese producers. Order a little bit of everything with a glass of natural wine from their fantastic selection, but don’t miss the Minhota beef tartar in charred cabbage “tacos,” the only dish that hasn’t left the menu since the beginning. And when you’re done, head next door to Prado Mercearia, a combination grocery store and café, to grab some fresh ingredients and prepared items for later. [$$ - $$$]

After building a promising career for several years, João Sá now helms his own kitchen at downtown restaurant Sála. The restaurant’s atmosphere is informal, while dishes are creative and contemporary, combining Portuguese heritage with global influences. Highlights include Sá’s version of slow-cooked caldo verde (a traditional soup of potatoes, collard greens, and sliced chouriço), red mullet with green curry and shellfish, and the signature bulhão pato (seafood tart of clams, garlic, white wine, and coriander sauce). You can’t go wrong, whether you order a la carte or get the five-course tasting menu. [$$]

After closing its former venue behind Mercado da Ribeira, Café Tati returned with a shorter name in a new address. On a charming corner, the restaurant has become brighter and more welcoming, with a beautiful wooden bar and comfortable tables where guests can enjoy the substantial wine list. Argentinian chef Romina Bertolini serves no-frills, tasty food to share: shrimp wontons, sweetbreads, sardine toasts, and a tarta de queso to die for. [$$]

Located in a 19th-century building that is now a hotel in the Graça neighborhood, Plano is a two-in-one restaurant. On most days, guests eat indoors in a charming, airy dining room with minimalist decor. But on hot summer nights, chef Vitor Adão sets up his kitchen in the intimate garden around the pool where, with the help of a charcoal grill beneath the orange trees, he cooks over open fire as if he were in the countryside. Either way, the five- to nine-course tasting menu is (basically) the same, and so is Adão’s technical mastery. Although the options change frequently, some classics are always present, such as the carabineiro shrimp with bouillabaisse, and the head cheese with carrot pickle and parsley. [$$$]

Tascas, which serve traditional comfort dishes at affordable prices, are a Portuguese institution. They proliferated in the early 20th century, but Maçã Verde (Green Apple) is a more recent specimen, tucked in a former snack bar in front of Santa Apolónia station. The restaurant serves hearty dishes such as chanfana (goat stew) and secretos de porco preto (fatty strips of black pig), all well-prepared by Dona Laura, the friendly cook in charge. [$]