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Smørrebrod toast topped with seafood, fried egg, and herbs, on a white plate sitting on a set table
Seasonal smørrebrød from Møntergade
Møntergade [Facebook]

The 33 Essential Copenhagen Restaurants

From René Redzepi’s pandemic burger restaurant to historic spots for smørrebrød and schnapps, here’s where to dine and drink in Copenhagen

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Seasonal smørrebrød from Møntergade
| Møntergade [Facebook]

After weathering several painful pandemic shutdowns, Copenhagen’s dining scene has somehow emerged more varied than ever. The institutions that set off the Danish capital’s culinary boom a decade ago now share the spotlight with stellar bakeries, some of Europe’s best wine bars, a wealth of smørrebrød specialists, and an emerging class of restaurants dedicated to previously underrepresented styles, from haute sushi to world-class Mexican. There’s even a new Substack newsletter, Bord, covering the evolving dining scene.

That’s not to say that everybody’s still around. At the end of 2020, Christian Puglisi made headlines when he shut down his highly influential restaurants Relæ and Manfreds. Bo Bech’s Geist, which opened in 2011, is no more. Neither is Kristian Baumann’s Michelin-starred 108. The interesting thing, though, is that most of these cases aren’t premature demises. Bech had long been planning to leave his Kongens Nytorv favorite; rising talent Andreas Bagh opened Esmée in the space. Never one to go on autopilot, Puglisi sensed that a global pandemic was as good a time as any to make a big change. He handed his former colleague Baumann the keys to Relæ; it is now Koan. Meanwhile, the address that was Manfreds is now the bistro Silberbauers, from another of Puglisi’s acolytes, and Baumann’s former home, 108, turned into René Redzepi’s popular burger spot POPL.

It says a lot about how far the city has come that it wasn’t possible to include every worthy restaurant on the list that follows.

Note: The inclusion of restaurants offering dine-in service should not be taken as an endorsement for dining inside. Studies indicate a lower exposure risk to COVID-19 outdoors, but the level of risk is contingent on social distancing and other safety guidelines. Check with each restaurant for up-to-date information on dining offerings. For updated information on coronavirus cases in Denmark, please visit Coronasmitte.dk.

Price key:

$ = Less than 200 DKK (30 USD)
$$ = 200 - 500 DKK (30 - 75 USD)
$$$ = 500 - 1,000 DKK (75 - 150 USD)
$$$$ = 1,000 DKK (150 USD) and up

Gabe Ulla is the co-author of Ignacio Mattos’ debut cookbook Estela and David Chang’s New York Times-bestselling memoir Eat a Peach, and he has contributed to WSJ Magazine, Vanity Fair, Town & Country, and numerous other publications. He started his career interning for Eater New York.

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Note: Restaurants on this map are listed geographically.

1. Geranium

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8, Per Henrik Lings Allé 4
2100 København Ø, Denmark
+45 69 96 00 20
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Rasmus Kofoed is the only competitor to have won bronze, silver, and gold medals at the Bocuse d’Or cooking contest in Lyon, France. Thanks to his work at Geranium, he is also the only chef in Denmark with three Michelin stars. His is a very serious restaurant, where the cooks wear toques and diners are invited to pose for photos in front of the Bocuse trophies. That Geranium is located in the competitive atmosphere of the city’s soccer stadium is almost too on the nose. [$$$$]

2. Bæst

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Guldbergsgade 29
2200 København N, Denmark
+45 35 35 04 63
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During the pandemic, chef Christian Puglisi decided it was time to close Relæ and Manfreds og Vin, the two restaurants that put him on the map. The bakery Mirabelle and pizzeria Bæst remain. At the latter venue, Puglisi leans into his Italian heritage with characteristic meticulousness. The pies are blasted in an oven from Naples, the charcuterie and burrata are prepared in-house, and most of the dishes highlight produce grown on the chef’s Farm of Ideas outside the city. [$$]

A full pizza topped with nduja and herbs, shot from above on a wood table
Spicy nduja pizza
Rachel Leah Blumenthal

3. Tigermom

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Ryesgade 25
2200 København, Denmark

Nørrebro restaurant Tigermom sees former Relæ sous chef Lisa Lov serving family-style meals inspired by her Chinese-Cambodian heritage. It’s very easy to have a good time here, as dish after dish — from raw scallops to grilled skewers — descends on the table. Pricing starts at a reasonable 425 kroner ($65) per person, and the colorful dining room is a refreshing contrast to some of the more subdued spots around town. [$$]

As seen from above, a scallop served in its shell topped with fried shallots and a light brown XO sauce
Norwegian scallop, roe, coral, XO butter, fried shallots
Petra Kleis via Tigermom / Facebook

4. Amass

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Refshalevej 153
1432 København K, Denmark
+45 43 58 43 30
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Bit by bit, since opening Amass eight years ago, chef Matt Orlando (formerly of Noma and Per Se) has built a little wonderland on the island of Refshaleøen, and a model of sustainability. During your meal, a server might explain that a dish was made with used coffee grounds, spent grain, or yesterday’s bread — but at Amass, virtue never comes at the expense of deliciousness. Finish your meal outside with madeleines around the bonfire. [$$$ - $$$$]

5. Lille Bakery

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Refshalevej 213A
1432 København, Denmark

Unlike other jam-packed bakeries around town, Lille lets you linger. Just ask the creatives who work nearby and treat it as their canteen. In addition to pastries, there’s a menu of salads and light dishes for those seeking an easy lunch. [$ - $$]

Cooks and bakers prepare unseen dishes behind a high counter stacked with plates and potted plants, in a bright white space with industrial ovens in the background
The Lille team at work
Lille Bakery / official

6. Bistro Boheme

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Esplanaden 8
1263 København, Denmark
+45 33 93 98 44
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Take a break from touring the design stores of Bredgade for a meal at this neighborhood restaurant from chef Per Thostesen, favored by locals for its oysters and famous fried egg with pomme puree and truffles. Even if you’re not in the mood for a full meal, a draft beer and some fries at the bar make for a perfect pitstop. [$$]

7. Noma

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Refshalevej 96
1432 København K, Denmark

In 2018, Noma moved to a lakeside campus designed by starchitect Bjarke Ingels. Chef René Redzepi and his team have settled in nicely. Dishes on this summer’s menu include a salad of warm berries with fava beans and elderflower sauce, and a dessert of woodruff ice cream that comes wrapped in dried plum juice. Come fall, it’ll be game and forest season. But more important than the particulars is the bottom line: Nearly two decades in, Noma continues to deliver an electrifying, uncommonly soulful dining experience. [$$$$]

A restaurant interior that resembles a barn with steeped roof and exposed beams over soft four-top wood tables, wood flooring, a bar to one side, all draped in hanging plants
Inside Noma’s new dining room
Noma / Facebook

8. Barabba

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Store Kongensgade 34
1264 København, Denmark

Every day of the week, Barabba offers a murderers’ row of Italian dishes more concerned with pleasure than tradition. Consider three recent appearances on the menu: an appetizer of grilled octopus with spicy radicchio and Pantelleria capers; a primo of spaghetti with butter, colatura, and caviar; and an entree of hamachi that’s salt-crusted, grilled, and fried. [$$ - $$$]

From above, a hand holding a geometric plate piled with scialatielli pasta topped with a mound of chopped seafood and a few scraps of herbs
Scialatielli with frutti di mare and candied lemons
Riccardo Marcon

9. Atelier September

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Gothersgade 30
1123 København K, Denmark
+45 26 29 57 53
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This bright, beautiful cafe from Frederik Bille Brahe serves as a home away from home for stylish Copenhageners. They go to Atelier September to catch up with friends over mugs of matcha and plates of sliced rye bread and comté. The caramelized grapefruit is fantastic, but best of all may be the avocado toast with chile, chives, and citrus. Only a few blocks from Kongens Nytorv, Atelier September is striking distance from nearly every major attraction (including the Charlottenburg Palace, the city’s contemporary art museum, where Bille Brahe operates Apollo Bar). [$ - $$]

10. Sankt Annae

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Sankt Annæ Pl. 12
1250 København K, Denmark
+45 33 12 54 97
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The historic Sankt Annæ ably ticks off all the boxes a CPH lunch spot should — herring, smørrebrød, schnapps, and more schnapps — but don’t sleep on the biksemad, a satisfying dish of potato hash, diced meat, and fried eggs that’s the best kind of Danish home cooking. [$$ - $$$]

11. Balderdash

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1151 k, Valkendorfsgade 11
1151 København, Denmark

Geoffrey Canilao serves some of the city’s most creative cocktails at this basement bar located in the historic town center. A rotating series of themed menus highlights novel applications of ingredients like truffles and ice cream. Despite Balderdash’s spirit of invention, the dimly lit drinking hole is more welcoming dive than hushed performance space. [$$]

A pink cocktail in a highball glass topped with whipped cream and sprinkles, and a lollipop clothespinned to the edge of the glass, sitting on a small dish with a long ice cream spoon, all against a corner of a bar against a cement wall
A colorful cocktail from the soda bar menu
Balderdash / facebook

12. Kong Hans Kælder

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Vingårdstræde 6
1070 København K, Denmark
+45 33 11 68 68
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Located in the underground cellar of the oldest building in Copenhagen, Kong Hans Kælder is the place to visit for grand European fine dining: turbot cooked in a salt crust, whole-roasted duck, and an impressive cheese cart. Bonjwing Lee has covered the restaurant and chef Mark Lundgaard Nielsen extensively on the Ulterior Epicure blog if you want to get a play-by-play of the magic. [$$$$]

13. Den Vandrette

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Havnegade 53A
1058 København K, Denmark
+45 72 14 82 28
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Located around the corner from the perennially thronged row houses of Nyhavn, the understated wine bar Den Vandrette is something of an oasis. Owner Sune Rosforth is one of Copenhagen’s leading importers of biodynamic wines, and here his team serves a thoughtful selection of charcuterie and cheese that play well with the formidable list. [$$ - $$$]

14. TATA Cocktail Bar

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Tordenskjoldsgade 15
1055 København, Denmark

Copenhagen is slowly becoming a great hotel city. The current star is the Sanders, around the corner from the ballet. The rooftop lounge is most tempting, but head to the acclaimed cocktail bar on the ground floor if you can’t do both. The servers couldn’t be kinder and the pressed ham and cheese sandwich approaches perfection. [$$ - $$$]

Three people in business casual toast with colorful cocktails in a wine glass, lowball, and coupe
Cocktails at TATA
Chris Tonnesen via Hotel Sanders

15. Restaurant Barr

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Strandgade 93
1401 København K, Denmark
+45 32 96 32 93
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Chef Thorsten Schmidt’s harborfront eatery celebrates the flavors of the European beer belt with plenty of craft brews, generous portions of bone marrow, and a show-stopping schnitzel. On a sunny day, you might even find yourself joining the swimmers outside. [$$ - $$$]

Spare rib at Barr
Photo: Barr / Facebook

16. Restaurant Iluka

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Peder Skrams Gade 15
1054 København, Denmark

Australian native Beau Clugston’s careful sourcing and assured cooking have elevated his seafood establishment Iluka to the top of Copenhagen’s restaurant scene. Celebrated as it may be, the intimate venue offers all the flexibility of a neighborhood restaurant: Book well in advance or swing by for seats at the bar; order a few dishes a la carte or spring for the reasonably priced tasting menu ($80-$100). [$$ - $$$]

A cook’s hands hold a shucking knife while presenting an opened clam in sharp focus against a dark background
Mahogany clam
Jason Lucas

17. Admiralgade 26

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Admiralgade
1066 København K, Denmark
+45 33 33 79 73
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The dining room at restaurateur Christian Nedergaard’s Admiralgade 26 feels like the Copenhagen apartment of your dreams, while the menu seamlessly incorporates influences from Japan, Italy, and Spain. Make your leisurely visit even longer with a stop at Nedergaard’s neighboring wine bar, Ved Stranden 10, where servers will set you up with an excellent glass before sending you out to sit along the canal, if the weather agrees. [$$$]

Hake at Admiralgade 26
Photo: Admiralgade 26 / Facebook

18. Hart Bageri

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Gl. Kongevej 109
1850 Frederiksberg, Denmark

When former Tartine head baker Richard Hart had his Copenhagen debut in 2018, the lines snaked around the block. By all accounts, he exceeded expectations with his super-seeded rye bread and signature “city loaf” sourdough. In 2020, he opened a second location in Christianshavn, Hart Brød + Bar, more suited to drinking and hanging. [$ - $$]

A wooden shelf holds loaves of sourdough bread rested on end against a slate wall behind, with a small chalkboard sign that reads “City Loaf”
City loaf sourdough
Hart Bageri [official]

19. Sanchez Cantina

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Istedgade 60
1650 København, Denmark

The common refrain about chef Rosio Sanchez’s Vesterbro cantina is that it serves some of the best Mexican food anywhere, not just in Copenhagen. Good luck calling that hyperbole once you start working your way through the fleet of mezcals and Sanchez’s food. The breakfast taco is the sort of thing Angelenos would gladly wait hours to sample. Dinner is just as memorable, with tostadas of octopus al pastor and carnitas topped with grilled brigante cheese. Sanchez recently opened a second Cantina near Østerbro, and the two locations of her taco stand, Hija de Sanchez, should also be on your radar. [$$ - $$$]

A table spread with a plate of two tacos, a bowl of chips, a cocktail in a lowball glass, two beers, and various other dishes
Tacos, chips, and drinks
Sanchez Cantina / official

20. Kødbyens Fiskebar

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Flæsketorvet 100
1711 København V, Denmark
+45 32 15 56 56
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This energetic and indispensable restaurant in the Meatpacking District serves seafood dishes from chef Jamie Lee and wines chosen by Anders Selmer every day of the week. The vibe, killer snacks, and  a la carte format make Fiskebar equally suited for a full meal or a quick glass of wine with some fish and chips. In the warmer months, the team arranges beach chairs in the lot out front where you can post up with a bottle of wine as the day winds down. [$$ - $$$]

21. Kebabistan

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Istedgade 105
1650 København, Denmark

Drinking at night in Copenhagen, you’ll often feel the need for one last meal before bedtime. Find the nearest Kebabistan. The mini-chain serves chicken, lamb, or mixed shawarma with fries, which all benefit from the addition of the stand’s homemade chile oil. [$]

A hand holds a pita stuffed with meat, lettuce, and fixings in front of an empty street at night
Shawarma with fixings in pita
Rachel Leah Blumenthal

22. Esmée

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Kongens Nytorv 8
1050 København, Denmark

Earlier this year, the blow from the announcement that Bo Bech’s Geist would close was considerably softened by the news of its replacement: Esmée, the first solo project from the gifted chef Andreas Bagh. With snacks like brioche topped with Ibérico ham and a main of wild turbot roasted on the bone, his menu reflects a fondness for the finer things (but jackets are far from required). Dine on the sidewalk to take in the pleasant bustle of Kongens Nytorv, this town’s beating heart. [$$$]

23. La Banchina

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Refshalevej 141
1432 København, Denmark

Is there a place to eat and drink in Copenhagen more idyllic than La Banchina? The question may enter your mind when you take in the vibrant tableau that tends to form there on a nice day, as Copenhageners dive into the water between sips of natural wine and bites of smoked sardines. [$ - $$]

A crowd of people sit with drinks on a dock outside a restaurant, some of them sunbathing
Sunbathers at La Banchina
La Banchina [Facebook]

24. Restaurant Koan

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Jægersborggade 41
2200 København N, Denmark

The latest project from Kristian Baumann, who earned a Michelin star at the now-shuttered 108, this temporary restaurant operates from the Nørrebro address that housed Christian Puglisi’s seminal Relæ until this year. At Koan, Baumann explores the flavors of Korea, his birth country, for the first time in his career. Standouts on the tasting menu include a mandu filled with fjord shrimp, and a coil of grilled white asparagus and mussels inspired by a hit recipe from the previous tenant. [$$$$]

A delicately folded mandu in a bowl of broth on a wooden tabeltop
Fjord shrimp mandu
Koan [official]

25. POPL Burger

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Strandgade 108
1401 København, Denmark

The signature cheeseburger at René Redzepi’s highly popular POPL features beef sourced from some of Denmark’s most respected organic cattle farms. It is cooked in butter and glazed with beef garum from Noma’s fermentation department. The vegan and vegetarian options — and a spicy fried chicken sandwich that appears on the menu from time to time — also merit attention. [$ - $$]

Several people holding burgers together over a metal outdoor table
Burgers at POPL
POPL [Facebook]

26. Silberbauers Bistro

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Jægersborggade 40
2200 København, Denmark

Venison terrine topped with cognac-pickled cherries. Roasted sweetbreads in a langoustine sauce. A tart of blistered cherry tomatoes, olives, and oregano. These hearty bistro dishes are the work of Mathias Silberbauer, a veteran of Relæ and Bæst whose restaurant has been drawing crowds since it debuted earlier this year. The room will be familiar to most CPH enthusiasts: This used to be Manfreds og Vin, Christian Puglisi’s wine bar. [$$ - $$$]

A restaurant interior, awash in natural light. Empty tables are covered in checkerboard table clothes and set for service. There is a poster and other art on the walls and a colorful midcentury pendant light hanging from the ceiling
Inside Silberbauers Bistro
Silberbauers Bistro [Facebook]

27. Sushi Anaba

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Sandkaj 39
2150 København, Denmark

Thanks to Mads Battefeld, Copenhagen finally boasts a world-class sushi omakase. The eight-seat restaurant, one of the toughest reservations in the city, distinguishes itself by serving sustainable seafood from the Nordic region. Nigiri preparations include aged wild trout from South Sjaelland, cross-hatch-cut herring with sesame and umeboshi, and a honey-infused tamago cooked over charcoal. [$$$$]

A clump of sea urchin wrapped in nori on a decorative ceramic plate
Faroe islands sea urchin with Saga prefecture nori
Sushi Anaba [Facebook]

28. Kona

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Bag Elefanterne 13
1799 København, Denmark

Jessica Natali is one to watch. Her Japanese tasting counter has only been open for a couple of months, but already the young chef is displaying her range across two menus, one devoted to izakaya fare, the other a tasting consisting of more buttoned-up preparations, like tender strands of raw squid with kanzuri butter. In many ways, at Kona, Natali continues to build on the lessons she picked up as part of the opening crew at Inua, the now-shuttered Tokyo restaurant co-founded by her mentor, René Redzepi. [$$ - $$$]

Slices of squid on an oblong ceramic plate topped with caviar
Tender squid
Kōnā [official]

29. Møntergade

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Møntergade
København, Denmark

Møntergade is arguably the place to go these days for a Danish lunch of smørrebrød (though sister restaurant Palægade is nothing to scoff at). The offerings are grounded in tradition but tend to be more precise than the renditions you’ll encounter at the classic restaurants. Don’t sleep on dinner service, when the open-faced sandwiches are replaced by dishes like fried turbot with vadouvan-glazed carrots, and a beef tenderloin doused in sauce choron (a variation of Bearnaise that incorporates tomato). [$$ - $$$]

Smørrebrod toast topped with seafood, fried egg, and herbs, on a white plate sitting on a set table
Seasonal smørrebrød
Møntergade [Facebook]

30. Juno

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Århusgade 48
2100 København, Denmark

Brave any wait for a chance to try the black cardamom buns and croissants at this tiny bakery in Østerbro. When you finally reach the front of the queue, pair your prizes with a cup from Koppi, the Swedish company that has played a vital role in advancing Scandinavia’s coffee scene. [$]

A close-up on a sugar-dusted, knotty cardamom bun resting on a paper bag
Cardamom bun
Rachel Leah Blumenthal

31. Pompette

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Møllegade 3
2200 København, Denmark

Pompette stands apart from other Copenhagen wine bars in that it is eminently affordable; glasses start at 50 kroner ($7.50), and they’ll let you drink whatever you buy in their retail section for a 100 kroner ($15) corkage fee. Owner Martin Ho also operates Poulette next door, which sells spicy fried chicken sandwiches. [$]

From above, two people eat from a table strewn with dishes, including whole radishes, bread, olive oil, and sliced meat, as well as glasses of wine and a bouquet
Drinks and bites at Pompette
Pompette / Facebook

32. Jordnær

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Gentoftegade 29
2820 Gentofte, Denmark

Local chefs and food writers keep coming back to this two-Michelin-starred restaurant in Gentofte, a 20-minute drive from the town center, and buckling down for its 18-course tasting. It’s only a matter of time before visitors catch onto chef Eric Kragh Vildgaard’s work too. While similarly luxe restaurants like Marchal and Kong Hans keep it old school, Jordnær has a more freewheeling spirit. See, for example, the Nordic-Japanese hybrid that is a dish of black currant “branches” paired with miso and caviar. [$$$$]

A micro-gastronomic dessert, consisting of a thin waffle-like object topped with a puff of cream, in turn topped with a beehive-like structure
Honey, lavender, and chamomile dessert
Jordnær [Facebook]

33. Maison

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Dronningens Tværgade 43
1302 København, Denmark

Maison’s classic French sensibilities place it in the company of other restaurants on this list like Silberbauers and Bistro Boheme, but it might be the only spot in town with a mountain of shoestring fries to match L’Ami Louis in Paris, as well as not one, but two takes on foie gras. [$$$]

A large cut of steak on an oblong plate with thyme and lemon wedge for garnish, and a side dish blurred in the background on a wooden table
Steak at Maison
Maison [official]

1. Geranium

8, Per Henrik Lings Allé 4, 2100 København Ø, Denmark

Rasmus Kofoed is the only competitor to have won bronze, silver, and gold medals at the Bocuse d’Or cooking contest in Lyon, France. Thanks to his work at Geranium, he is also the only chef in Denmark with three Michelin stars. His is a very serious restaurant, where the cooks wear toques and diners are invited to pose for photos in front of the Bocuse trophies. That Geranium is located in the competitive atmosphere of the city’s soccer stadium is almost too on the nose. [$$$$]

8, Per Henrik Lings Allé 4
2100 København Ø, Denmark

2. Bæst

Guldbergsgade 29, 2200 København N, Denmark
A full pizza topped with nduja and herbs, shot from above on a wood table
Spicy nduja pizza
Rachel Leah Blumenthal

During the pandemic, chef Christian Puglisi decided it was time to close Relæ and Manfreds og Vin, the two restaurants that put him on the map. The bakery Mirabelle and pizzeria Bæst remain. At the latter venue, Puglisi leans into his Italian heritage with characteristic meticulousness. The pies are blasted in an oven from Naples, the charcuterie and burrata are prepared in-house, and most of the dishes highlight produce grown on the chef’s Farm of Ideas outside the city. [$$]

Guldbergsgade 29
2200 København N, Denmark

3. Tigermom

Ryesgade 25, 2200 København, Denmark
As seen from above, a scallop served in its shell topped with fried shallots and a light brown XO sauce
Norwegian scallop, roe, coral, XO butter, fried shallots
Petra Kleis via Tigermom / Facebook

Nørrebro restaurant Tigermom sees former Relæ sous chef Lisa Lov serving family-style meals inspired by her Chinese-Cambodian heritage. It’s very easy to have a good time here, as dish after dish — from raw scallops to grilled skewers — descends on the table. Pricing starts at a reasonable 425 kroner ($65) per person, and the colorful dining room is a refreshing contrast to some of the more subdued spots around town. [$$]

Ryesgade 25
2200 København, Denmark

4. Amass

Refshalevej 153, 1432 København K, Denmark

Bit by bit, since opening Amass eight years ago, chef Matt Orlando (formerly of Noma and Per Se) has built a little wonderland on the island of Refshaleøen, and a model of sustainability. During your meal, a server might explain that a dish was made with used coffee grounds, spent grain, or yesterday’s bread — but at Amass, virtue never comes at the expense of deliciousness. Finish your meal outside with madeleines around the bonfire. [$$$ - $$$$]

Refshalevej 153
1432 København K, Denmark

5. Lille Bakery

Refshalevej 213A, 1432 København, Denmark
Cooks and bakers prepare unseen dishes behind a high counter stacked with plates and potted plants, in a bright white space with industrial ovens in the background
The Lille team at work
Lille Bakery / official

Unlike other jam-packed bakeries around town, Lille lets you linger. Just ask the creatives who work nearby and treat it as their canteen. In addition to pastries, there’s a menu of salads and light dishes for those seeking an easy lunch. [$ - $$]

Refshalevej 213A
1432 København, Denmark

6. Bistro Boheme

Esplanaden 8, 1263 København, Denmark

Take a break from touring the design stores of Bredgade for a meal at this neighborhood restaurant from chef Per Thostesen, favored by locals for its oysters and famous fried egg with pomme puree and truffles. Even if you’re not in the mood for a full meal, a draft beer and some fries at the bar make for a perfect pitstop. [$$]

Esplanaden 8
1263 København, Denmark

7. Noma

Refshalevej 96, 1432 København K, Denmark
A restaurant interior that resembles a barn with steeped roof and exposed beams over soft four-top wood tables, wood flooring, a bar to one side, all draped in hanging plants
Inside Noma’s new dining room
Noma / Facebook

In 2018, Noma moved to a lakeside campus designed by starchitect Bjarke Ingels. Chef René Redzepi and his team have settled in nicely. Dishes on this summer’s menu include a salad of warm berries with fava beans and elderflower sauce, and a dessert of woodruff ice cream that comes wrapped in dried plum juice. Come fall, it’ll be game and forest season. But more important than the particulars is the bottom line: Nearly two decades in, Noma continues to deliver an electrifying, uncommonly soulful dining experience. [$$$$]

Refshalevej 96
1432 København K, Denmark

8. Barabba

Store Kongensgade 34, 1264 København, Denmark
From above, a hand holding a geometric plate piled with scialatielli pasta topped with a mound of chopped seafood and a few scraps of herbs
Scialatielli with frutti di mare and candied lemons
Riccardo Marcon

Every day of the week, Barabba offers a murderers’ row of Italian dishes more concerned with pleasure than tradition. Consider three recent appearances on the menu: an appetizer of grilled octopus with spicy radicchio and Pantelleria capers; a primo of spaghetti with butter, colatura, and caviar; and an entree of hamachi that’s salt-crusted, grilled, and fried. [$$ - $$$]

Store Kongensgade 34
1264 København, Denmark

9. Atelier September

Gothersgade 30, 1123 København K, Denmark

This bright, beautiful cafe from Frederik Bille Brahe serves as a home away from home for stylish Copenhageners. They go to Atelier September to catch up with friends over mugs of matcha and plates of sliced rye bread and comté. The caramelized grapefruit is fantastic, but best of all may be the avocado toast with chile, chives, and citrus. Only a few blocks from Kongens Nytorv, Atelier September is striking distance from nearly every major attraction (including the Charlottenburg Palace, the city’s contemporary art museum, where Bille Brahe operates Apollo Bar). [$ - $$]

Gothersgade 30
1123 København K, Denmark

10. Sankt Annae

Sankt Annæ Pl. 12, 1250 København K, Denmark

The historic Sankt Annæ ably ticks off all the boxes a CPH lunch spot should — herring, smørrebrød, schnapps, and more schnapps — but don’t sleep on the biksemad, a satisfying dish of potato hash, diced meat, and fried eggs that’s the best kind of Danish home cooking. [$$ - $$$]

Sankt Annæ Pl. 12
1250 København K, Denmark

11. Balderdash

1151 k, Valkendorfsgade 11, 1151 København, Denmark
A pink cocktail in a highball glass topped with whipped cream and sprinkles, and a lollipop clothespinned to the edge of the glass, sitting on a small dish with a long ice cream spoon, all against a corner of a bar against a cement wall
A colorful cocktail from the soda bar menu
Balderdash / facebook

Geoffrey Canilao serves some of the city’s most creative cocktails at this basement bar located in the historic town center. A rotating series of themed menus highlights novel applications of ingredients like truffles and ice cream. Despite Balderdash’s spirit of invention, the dimly lit drinking hole is more welcoming dive than hushed performance space. [$$]

1151 k, Valkendorfsgade 11
1151 København, Denmark

12. Kong Hans Kælder

Vingårdstræde 6, 1070 København K, Denmark

Located in the underground cellar of the oldest building in Copenhagen, Kong Hans Kælder is the place to visit for grand European fine dining: turbot cooked in a salt crust, whole-roasted duck, and an impressive cheese cart. Bonjwing Lee has covered the restaurant and chef Mark Lundgaard Nielsen extensively on the Ulterior Epicure blog if you want to get a play-by-play of the magic. [$$$$]

Vingårdstræde 6
1070 København K, Denmark

13. Den Vandrette

Havnegade 53A, 1058 København K, Denmark

Located around the corner from the perennially thronged row houses of Nyhavn, the understated wine bar Den Vandrette is something of an oasis. Owner Sune Rosforth is one of Copenhagen’s leading importers of biodynamic wines, and here his team serves a thoughtful selection of charcuterie and cheese that play well with the formidable list. [$$ - $$$]

Havnegade 53A
1058 København K, Denmark

14. TATA Cocktail Bar

Tordenskjoldsgade 15, 1055 København, Denmark