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The 38 Essential Buenos Aires Restaurants

Where to find gochujang ribs, strawberry alfajores, bone-in pastrami, antique amaro, and Jerusalem artichoke flan in BA

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Cafe, parrilla, pasta, vino, repeat — that’s pretty much what the buzzing Buenos Aires dining scene has been about for decades. Porteños have long been steak eaters, and many restaurant-going traditionalists don’t consider a meal legitimate unless heaps of grilled meats abound at the table. But in recent years, a new generation of gastronomes has looked beyond the parrilla (steakhouse) and sparked an interest in vegetable-centric dishes, pop-up pastry shops, vermouth and wine bars, worldly flavors, and reinvented comfort foods from Argentina’s past. That doesn’t mean you should skip the parrilla; just be sure to order your steak jugoso (medium rare) or it may come overcooked for some tastes.

This South American metropolis is home to people who love to go out to eat and drink, and the long government-enforced pandemic lockdown couldn’t puncture that passion. The hype is strongest in neighborhoods emerging as gastronomic hubs, especially Chacarita (and surrounding barrios like Colegiales, Villa Crespo, and Villa Ortúzar), where creative cooks are consistently pushing the boundaries of Argentine cuisine.

Porteños tend to be social beings and frequent cafes, restaurants, and bars at any hour of the day. It’s common to eat quite late, around 9 p.m. to 11 p.m., and restaurants won’t start serving cena (dinner) until at least 8 p.m. Be aware that service can arrive at a snail’s pace, and many places only accept efectivo (cash). Due to inflation and a rocky economy, prices and exchange rates for Argentine pesos are constantly changing, but anyone carrying foreign currency will generally find restaurants to be incredibly affordable.

Buenos Aires is a huge city with so many opportunities to eat well. No guide can be entirely comprehensive, but this list includes the city’s emblematic foods, most popular standbys, a few hidden gems, and some hot openings.

Health experts consider dining out to be a high-risk activity for the unvaccinated; it may pose a risk for the vaccinated, especially in areas with substantial COVID transmission.

Prices per person, excluding alcohol*:

$ = Less than 1000 pesos (less than $10 USD)
$$ = 1,100 - 2,000 pesos ($11 - $20 USD)
$$$ = 2,100 - 2,900 pesos ($21 - $29 USD)
$$$$ = More than 3,000 pesos ($30 USD)

* These figures reflect the exchange rate at press time, though that rate fluctuates constantly. Spending on the ground may also reflect the unofficial “blue” (black market) rate.

Allie Lazar is a freelance writer blogging about food and restaurants in Buenos Aires.

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Note: Restaurants on this map are listed geographically.

1. Alo’s

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Blanco Encalada 2120, B1609 Boulogne
Buenos Aires, Argentina

It’s worth the trek to the San Isidro suburb to taste the dishes emerging from Alejandro Féraud’s open kitchen. This modern bistro, which opens for breakfast, lunch, and dinner, quickly became a hit for its unique way of transforming familiar Argentine flavors. [$$$$]

From above, a stone bowl filled with stew consisting of noodles, egg, chorizo, and a smear of beans

Sorpresine in broth.

Alo’s/Facebook

2. Narda Comedor

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C1428DUB, Mariscal Antonio José de Sucre 664
C1428DUB CABA, Argentina
011 15-6131-0664
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Narda Lepes is a household name in Argentina. She stars in cooking and travel shows, writes cookbooks, hosts a radio show, and sells her own line of supermarket products and kitchen appliances. Narda Comedor, her restaurant in Bajo Belgrano, takes after a mess hall, but the kitchen puts vegetables on the main stage. Many items are inspired by Lepes’s travels across Asia, the Middle East, and Latin America, and a talented crew of cooks serves dishes for breakfast, lunch, merienda (tea time), and dinner. [$$$]

A bowl of whole roasted onion surrounded by mashed potato and broth, and topped with nuts and other garnishes

“The onion,” a classic dish at Narda Comedor.

Eugenio Mazzinghi

3. Corte Comedor

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Av. Olazábal 1395, C1428 C1428ASK
Buenos Aires, Argentina

Even though Uruguayan chef (and Francis Mallmann disciple) Santiago Garat constantly changes the menu, you can expect him to serve top-quality sirloin, skirt steak, rib-eye, pork loin, and all of the homemade chorizos. Don’t miss the spicy lamb merguez starter or seasonal vegetable side dishes. And make sure to hop next door to Corte Carniceria, one of the best butcher shops in the city, to shop for sausages, pork, and dry-aged beef. [$$$]

A large cut of meat with distinct bones and marbling sits on a butcher counter
Great meat from Corte Carniceria next door
Corte Carniceria / Facebook

4. La Kitchen

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Nuñez 3400
C1429 CABA, Argentina

Found in residential Saavedra, this northside bakery and cafe favorite pumps out very memorable baked goods. Sweet and savory fosforitos are usually found at birthday parties and family gatherings, but it’s always a good time to enjoy sweet-glazed pastry dough filled with ham and cheese. Many customers come for chipas, sandwiches of pastrami on pletzalej, and croissants exploding with raspberry jam. La Kitchen recently expanded their original tiny location and now has ample indoor and outdoor patio seating. [$$]

A tray of sugar-dusted croissants bursting with jam
Raspberry jam croissants
La Kitchen

5. Heladeria Gruta

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Mariscal Antonio José de Sucre 2356
C1428 CABA, Argentina

While Argentina might be famous for its beef, the unsung hero of the food scene is the helado. The Italian-style gelato is a big deal in BA, especially at this family-owned Belgrano ice cream shop that has been making the artisanal sweet treat for over 43 years. If it’s too hard to choose from the 50 flavors, go with their most popular trifecta: dulce de leche, sambayón, and chocolate. Hot tip: If you order half a kilo or more, they will top your ice cream with their homemade caramelized almonds. [$]

A heladeria worker scoops ice cream into a cone
Serving up helado
Heladeria Gruta

6. Anafe

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Virrey Avilés 3216
C1426 CABA, Argentina

After hosting wildly popular pop-ups, chefs Mica Najmanovich and Nicolas Arcucci opened Anafe, where the vibe is laid-back but the dishes are anything but relaxed. The chefs reinterpret Eastern European, Italian, and Middle Eastern cuisines in small plates that emphasize texture, freshness, and flavor. Vegetarians won’t leave hungry either, since more than half of the menu is meat-free. The wine list features an excellent selection of boutique wines. Save room for dessert. [$$$]

A plate of pasta with multiple sauces for topping besides a glass of rose wine
Pasta and wine at Anafe
@buenospaladaires_

7. Atelier Fuerza Dos

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Delgado 1461
C1426BDW CABA, Argentina

Francisco Seubert started baking sourdough bread in his home after watching some how-to YouTube videos. He began selling it outside specialty coffee shops around the city, and today, he’s the co-owner of Atelier Fuerza, one of the fastest-growing bakeries in the country. With a team of young bakers, AF is on a mission to put Argentina’s beloved bakery culture in the spotlight, honoring traditional favorites like ricotta cake, pastafrola, palmeritas, alfajores, coquitos, and chipa. The shop is best suited to quick coffee and pastries for takeaway due to limited space. [$]

Alfajore sandwiches with pink cream surrounded by blond cookies, with slices of dried strawberry decorating the outside
Strawberry cream alfajores
Atelier Fuerza Dos

8. Mishiguene

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Lafinur 3368
C1425FAJ CABA, Argentina

This isn’t your bubbe’s shabbat dinner. The upscale Jewish eatery by chef Tomás Kalika recreates Ashkenazi, Sephardic, Israeli, and Middle Eastern dishes using fresh ingredients and modern techniques in a way that both intrigues and evokes nostalgia. The bone-in pastrami will leave you utterly verklempt. [$$$$]

A decorative bowl filled with hummus topped with a heaping mound of vegetables, meat, and herbs
Hummus with chicken heart, vegetables, and herbs at Mishiguene
Mishiguene / Facebook

9. Casa Cavia

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Cavia 2985
C1425DDA CABA, Argentina

Casa Cavia looks like it was taken directly from a Vogue photoshoot. The beautiful old house shares a space with a cultural center, publisher, bar, florist shop, cafe, and restaurant. Sit outside in the garden for a boozy weekday lunch, afternoon merienda (teatime), or relaxed pre-dinner drinks. Chef Julieta Caruso (an alum of Mugaritz) designed the restaurant menu, which tends to take inspiration from seasonal ingredients, while the bar serves some of the best cocktails in the neighborhood. [$$$$]

A dish at Casa Cavia
Photo: Casa Cavia

10. Catalino

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C1426CVH, Maure 3126
C1426CVH CABA, Argentina

Catalino first began as a puerta cerrada (closed-door restaurant), a popular Buenos Aires restaurant model trending over the last decade. Now, their doors are open to the general public for “cocina sincera,” sincere food carefully sourced with agroecological ingredients. Relax in the beautiful patio oasis and try dishes like a choripan (sausage sandwich) with chimichurri and criolla sauce, wild boar ribs, and flan with homemade dulce de leche for dessert. [$$$]

From above, large bone-in ribs on stained wax paper with a heap of french fries
Wild boar ribs, fries, chimi
Catalino/Facebook

11. La Mezzetta

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Av. Álvarez Thomas 1321, C1427 CDA
Buenos Aires, Argentina

It’s clear why Argentines take their pizza culture so seriously: Over 60 percent of the population is of Italian descent. Locals get into heated debates over which pizzeria serves the best Porteño pie, but many say the cheese and onion fugazetta slice at La Mezzetta hits the perfect balance of quality and consistency, with enough history to give it standing in any showdown. [$]

A slice of pizza with a massive crust oozing cheese onto a metal plate
Onion and cheese fugazetta pizza
Allie Lazar

12. Strange Brewing

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Delgado 658
C1426BDH CABA, Argentina

For decades, beer drinkers in Buenos Aires almost exclusively consumed Quilmes, the national brand. In recent years, however, the city has seen an artisanal beer boom of epic proportions. There may be dozens of cervecerias in every barrio, but few are quite as welcoming as this buzzing microbrewery and taproom. Strange gets busy, so get there early or expect to perch on the curb. [$]

A crowd stands and sits on the sidewalk outside a beer bar
Outside Strange Brewing
Strange Brewing

13. La Carnicería

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Thames 2317
C1425FIG CABA, Argentina

After centuries of the same traditional Argentine mixed grill, one restaurant has dared to modernize the sacred parrilla. La Carnicería, which means “butcher shop,” puts a twist on classic steakhouse fare with dishes that excite every sense. The early seating tends to be tourist-heavy, while the locals pour in starting around 10:30 p.m. Sit at the bar, sip on a lemon verbena gin and tonic, and enter a whole new carnivorous world of smoked chorizos, caramelized sweetbreads, beef tiraditos, and bigger-than-your-head steaks. The cabbage steak is a shining veggie star on the meat-heavy menu. [$$$]

A person showers a huge hunk of raw meat with salt, while a fire rages in the background
The proper amount of salt
La Carnicería/Facebook

14. Tres Monos

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Guatemala 4899
C1425 CABA, Argentina
011 15-2896-9457
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There are only 10 seats at the bar at Tres Monos (three monkeys), the tiny, unpretentious cocktail spot on Thames Street in trendy Palermo Soho. Sebastián Atienza used to tend bar at popular Florería Atlántico before he opened his own place to focus on thoughtful cocktails with distinct Argentine personality. Try drinks like the Dame un Tiki with rum, pineapple, celery, fernet, and Hesperidina (a classic, orange peel-based Argentine aperitif invented in 1864). Tres Monos ranked No. 33 in the World’s 50 Best Bars 2021. [$$]

15. El Preferido de Palermo

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Jorge Luis Borges 2108
C1425FFD CABA, Argentina

It was a sad day when El Preferido de Palermo shuttered. The iconic Palermo bodegón had survived since 1952. Luckily, it reopened under the careful eye of Don Julio restaurateur Pablo Rivero, who not only refurbished the entire space but called on chefs Guido Tassi and Martín Lukesch to run the kitchen. Try upgraded Porteño comfort foods like milanesa with fries and house-made charcuterie. Open every day for lunch and dinner. [$$$]

From above, a table filled with dishes, including charcuterie, olives, nuts, and Spanish tortilla
The spread at El Preferido de Palermo
Laura Macias

16. La Fuerza

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Av. Dorrego 1409, C1414CKJ C1414CKJ
Buenos Aires, Argentina

On a breezy corner on the border of Chacarita and Villa Crespo, La Fuerza keeps Argentina’s aperitivo history alive with a contemporary take on vermouth bars of the past. The vermouth is available on tap in white and red, made with grapes from Sebastián Zuccardi’s Mendoza winery and a selection of native herbs, spices, and flowers from the foothills of the Andes Mountains. The food doesn’t disappoint either, especially for those in search of Porteño nostalgia on a plate. Try the fainazzeta rellena, a mashup of fainá (chickpea cake) and fugazzeta (sauceless onion and cheese pizza). Or go for the milanesa con fritas a caballo (schnitzel with fries and fried eggs). The crew behind La Fuerza also reopened and refurbished Roma Bar, a historical cafe that specializes in pizza and empanadas. [$$]

A large coil of cooked sausage sits on a plate with bread and tomatoes beside a bottle of vermouth, seltzer, and a prepared glass of the two mixed
Salchicha and drinks at La Fuerza
La Fuerza

17. Na Num

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Roseti 177
C1427 CABA, Argentina

While most Argentine palates aren’t accustomed to spicy food, in recent years the food scene has witnessed a growing interest in Korean flavors. The majority of the traditional Korean restaurants are still located in Koreatown, but spots like Na Num are opening up outside the tight-knit community. The place is run by Marina Lis Ra, the daughter of Korean immigrants, who mixes her roots with her Argentine heritage with dishes like tortilla (turnip and potato Spanish omelet), humita (tamale with kimchi), gochujang ribs, and the house favorite, kimchi fried rice. [$$$]

From above, a plate with large, sauce-covered ribs, beside other plates
Gochujang ribs
Laura Macías

18. Don Julio

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Guatemala 4699
1425 CABA, Argentina

While Don Julio is no longer a secret, BA’s most famous upscale steakhouse still captures the hearts and stomachs of locals and travelers. It’s the place to experience what the parrilla is all about: top grass-fed sirloin, rump, and skirt steak; crispy sweetbreads; and malbec by the bottle. Go for a leisurely lunch, or arrive early (or late) for dinner to avoid ultra-long waits for a table. Don’t forget to sign your wine bottle so it can be added to the wall-mounted wine sculpture. [$$$$]

Don Julio
Photo by Allie Lazar

19. Donnet

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Av. Jorge Newbery 4081, C1427 EGG
Buenos Aires, Argentina
011 15-2749-9773
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Argentina has long had a reputation for steak, but recent studies have shown a significant portion of the population consider themselves vegan or vegetarian. These diners will find lots of love in Chacarita, where chef and owner Manuela Donnet transformed this bodegón-style restaurant (Argentine cantina) into a vegan and agroecological haven. Mushrooms star in dishes like hongos donnet, sauteed portobellos with fermented cashew cream, and grilled oyster mushrooms with lemon. Don’t miss the fainá chickpea cake with tomatoes and pesto. [$$$]

20. Panadería de Anchoíta

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Aguirre 1562
C1414 CABA, Argentina

Despite his past lives as a pilot, actor, doctor, director, and activist, serial entrepreneur Enrique Piñeyro claims his most challenging role yet is his newest vocation: restaurateur. His industrial-style restaurant, which specializes in grilled meats, river fishes, and pastas, closed temporarily during the pandemic (and will open back up in February 2022). But the closure gave the team time to focus on opening a bakery around the block serving dreamy croissants, breads, and churros with hot chocolate. [$$$]

21. Nuestro Secreto

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Posadas 1086
C1011 CABA, Argentina

It was once unheard of to have a woman behind the parrilla, but that doesn’t matter much to chef and grillmaster Patricia Ramos, who tends to the fire and huge slabs of beef at Nuestro Secreto. The Four Seasons’ luxe steakhouse is tucked in a greenhouse overlooking the hotel pool. The hotel also houses the award-winning Elena restaurant and Pony Line Bar. [$$$$]

A server holds a platter with a huge steak and thick cut potatoes
A fine hunk of steak
Four Seasons Hotel Buenos Aires

22. Roux

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Peña 2300
C1126ABF CABA, Argentina

This corner bistro near the Recoleta Cemetery has become the barrio go-to for those looking to eat and drink well. Ideal for a laid-back dinner, Roux serves fresh Mediterranean seafood dishes that are a counterpoint to the traditional meat-heavy lifestyle here. Small groups can request the private chef’s table in the wine cellar. [$$$]

A dish at Roux
Photo by Allie Lazar

23. Gran Dabbang

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Av. Raúl Scalabrini Ortiz 1543
C1414DOC CABA, Argentina

Gran Dabbang delivers much-needed spice and flair to the city’s traditional meat-and-empanadas palate. The restaurant uses fresh, local produce to blur the borders between Latin American and Asian cuisines, and chef and owner Mariano Ramón, who spent time in the U.K. and India, is a master at layering flavors and textures. It’s open Monday nights, making it a favorite haunt of the local gastro community. [$$$]

A dish at Gran Dabbang
Photo by Allie Lazar

24. Aramburu

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Pasaje del Correo, Vicente López 1661
C1103ACY CABA, Argentina

Hidden in the opulent Pasaje del Correo passageway in Recoleta, chef and owner Gonzalo Aramburu’s namesake restaurant serves one of the last remaining tasting menus in the city. Request a table overlooking the kitchen and watch as the chefs prepare an 18-course menu featuring local seasonal ingredients, complete with foams, clouds of liquid nitrogen, and carefully selected wine pairings. [$$$$]

A chef dollops a glop of sauce onto a geometric dish
The finishing touch
Aramburu/Facebook

25. Panaderia Medio Oriente

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José A. Cabrera 4702, C1414 BGL
Buenos Aires, Argentina
011 4777-8737

There are about 135,000 people of Armenian descent in Argentina, a huge community that’s vibrantly visible each weekend on the corner of Cabrera and Malabia in Palermo Soho. On Fridays and Saturdays, aka shawarma days, a lunch line spills out onto the street at this Armenian bakery, which has been serving loyal customers since 1972. Among the Middle Eastern and Armenian specialties, go for Belén salad (eggplant and roasted red pepper salad), lahmacun, and manté. [$]

26. La Cocina

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Av. Pueyrredón 1508
C1118AAS CABA, Argentina
011 4825-3171

Empanadas are omnipresent in BA. They come in all shapes and sizes, baked or fried, filled with all sorts of flavors. You’ll encounter the handheld pockets on every calle, but there’s something special about this dive-y empanada shop in Recoleta, which bakes up a handful of filling options sealed with a careful repulgue fold. The stewed chicken is a keeper, as is the Pikachu, loaded with cheese, onions, and mildly spicy red pepper flakes. La Cocina also has a second downtown location hidden in a local mall. [$]

An empanada at La Cocina
Photo by Allie Lazar

27. Julia Restaurante

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Loyola 807, C1414 C1414AUQ
Buenos Aires, Argentina

It would be impossible to know from the beautifully presented dishes hitting the table that there are only a few young cooks in the kitchen at Julio Baéz’s 22-seat restaurant named after his daughter. The menu changes seasonally but highlights include calamari topped with avocado, watermelon tartare, rib-eye with black and white garlic puree, and Jerusalem artichoke flan. Baéz, who didn’t have the backing of any big investors, opened the unpretentious restaurant on his own to focus on the important stuff: seasonality, flavor, technique, and ingredients. [$$$]

A molded round of steak tartare topped with grated cheese on a stark white plate
Tartare at Julia
Julia Restaurante

28. La Alacena

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Gascón 1401
C1181ADA CABA, Argentina

This quaint spot just outside of Palermo’s trendy epicenter is the type of neighborhood restaurant everyone wishes to have in their barrio. Head chef and owner Julieta Oriolo channels her Italian roots to create simple and tasty home-cooked dishes. Be sure to try handmade fresh pastas like cavatelli, tortellaci, and tía Carmelia’s lasagna bolognese. Most of La Alacena’s pastas, sauces, freshly baked bread, and pastries are available for takeaway at the bakery next door. [$$$]

From above, two plates of pasta, a salad, and a glass of wine
Pasta lunch at La Alacena
La Alacena

29. Parrilla Peña

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Rodríguez Peña 682
C1020 CABA, Argentina

One of the few remaining traditional bodegónes (neighborhood taverns for Porteño comfort food) in BA, Parrilla Peña blasts diners to the past with unpretentious food and service. Every meal starts with a complimentary fried empanada, and then pros order dishes like provoleta cheese, bife de chorizo (sirloin), provenzal fries, and flan mixto (with dulce de leche and whipped cream) for dessert. If you want to really fit in, order the house table wine and lighten it with ice and a splash of soda water. [$$]

30. Los Galgos

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Av. Callao 501
C1022AAF CABA, Argentina

Many local specialty coffee shops feel more like Brooklyn than Buenos Aires, but Los Galgos revives the city’s nostalgic cafe culture for the modern age. Set in a revived historic corner space in Tribunales that dates back to the 1930s, the cafe serves a properly made cortado, plus great food throughout the day. The ham and cheese toasted sandwiches attract courthouse workers for breakfast. Then a rowdy lunch crowd piles in for hearty fried milanesa with fried eggs and Russian salads, or revuelto gramajo, an egg scrambler topped with ham or vegetables and shoestring potatoes. Cocktail aficionados commute from afar for pre-dinner aperitivos and charcuterie picada platters. [$$]

Diners seated at wooden tables in a bright, airy cafe
Inside Los Galgos
Los Galgos

31. Don Ignacio

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Av. Rivadavia 3439
C1203AAG CABA, Argentina
011 4861-3133

Off the tourist track in residential Almagro, this local dive is the king of the milanesa. Deep-fried flattened cutlets of chicken or veal are topped with a universe of cheesy and porky adornments. Portions are huge and prices are cheap. This is Argentine comfort food at its finest. [$$]

Don Ignacio
Photo by Allie Lazar

32. Chila

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Av. Alicia Moreau de Justo 1160, C1107AAT Puerto Madero
Buenos Aires, Argentina

In a strip of touristy and disappointing restaurants overlooking the Puerto Madero docks, Chila is one of the only spots in Puerto Madero that’s actually worth a visit. Chef Pedro Bargero takes diners on a cross-country quest with carefully sourced ingredients in a seasonal tasting menu of modernized and emblematic Argentine dishes. The plates are as beautiful as they are delicious, especially the desserts by pastry chef Ana Irie. [$$$$]

From above, a large plate of leeks topped with swirls of sauce and herbal garnishes
An artful leek dish
Chila

33. Café San Juan

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Chile 474
C1098 CABA, Argentina

This long-standing San Telmo favorite, led by celebrity chef and owner Leandro “Lele” Cristóbal and his right-hand chef Mercedes Solís, is known for its Spanish and Italian-influenced Porteño dishes like pastas, milanesas, and porchettas. If you’re looking for a quick bite, stop off at La Vermutería in the front of the restaurant, Café San Juan’s small vermouth and tapas bar. Above the kitchen, you’ll also find a workshop and production space, where the restaurant regularly conducts cooking classes and special events. During the pandemic, Café San Juan offered affordable daily meals for the barrio, and regularly provided food to hospital workers and community centers. [$$$]

A large glass of vermouth on ice beside small bites on toothpicks
Vermouth and snacks
Café San Juan/Facebook

34. Nilson

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Carlos Calvo 463
C1102 CABA, Argentina

It took dozens of visits to the Mercado de San Telmo before sommelier Samantha Nilson got the chance to open a space in the market. Finally, one lucky day, she saw a “for rent” sign on a tiny kiosk and landed the dream location for her first wine bar. Every month Nilson changes the carefully selected wine list to feature a handful of Argentina’s best bottles, which are available by the glass. She keeps it simple with the food menu, which includes sandwiches and local cheeses. Drinkers don’t have to stay at the bar as they sip, but are encouraged to walk around the mercado or spill out onto the sidewalk to hang with barrio locals. For those who are still hungry, pop over to neighboring market stands like Nuestra Parrilla for choripan, or Beba Cocina for croquetes and empanadas. [$$]

A baguette sandwich sliced in half with cheese and deli meat visible from the side, alongside a glass of rose wine on a marble counter
Wine and a sandwich at Nilson
Nilson / Facebook

35. Urondo

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C1424BDZ, Beauchef 1204, C1424 BDZ
Buenos Aires, Argentina

Chef and owner Javier Urondo regularly ventures to the giant Mercado Central and Mercado de Liniers (Bolivian market) to source the freshest ingredients and spices for his unique twist on the classic bodegón (Argentine cantina). Since Urondo is located near BA’s Koreatown, and many of the clients are Korean, the kitchen incorporates Korean flavors on the very Porteño menu, which features blood sausage, sweetbreads, kimchi, and a lot of meat. [$$$]

A thick-cut steak on a grill lit by fire flaring up nearby
Steak at Urondo Bar
Urondo Bar

36. El Ferroviario

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Av. Reservistas Argentinos 219
Buenos Aires, Argentina

Whole slabs of beef sizzle on the grills outside of El Ferroviario, a giant meat palace located on the outskirts of Buenos Aires in an abandoned railway station behind a parking garage. Serving more than 1,000 covers per night, this place is always a scene, and it boasts all the qualities of a great parrilla: Portions are large, prices are cheap, and groups are welcome. Waiters move between the outdoor grill and mess hall balancing plates overflowing with every part of the cow. To avoid long wait times, reservations are a must. [$$$]

The grill at El Ferroviario
Photo: El Ferroviario / Facebook

37. Una Canción Coreana

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Av. Carabobo 1549
C1406 CABA, Argentina

There are more than a hundred Korean restaurants in the city, most tucked into private homes in the Flores and Floresta neighborhoods. For years opera singer Chung An Ra, owner of Una Canción Coreana, has welcomed Argentine and Korean communities to her local Koreatown favorite, where she serves home-cooked dishes like kimchi jjigae, japchae con carne, and bo ssam. The restaurant got a PR boost when Chung appeared in the documentary, Una Canción Coreana. [$$$]

Slices of pork and vegetables served on a platter with sliced radish and side salad
Jeyuk bokkeum (stir-fried pork)
Una Canción Coreana/Facebook

38. Yiyo El Zeneize

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Av. Eva Perón 4402
C1407HUK CABA, Argentina

When Egidio Zoppi, an eccentric antiquarian from Genoa, immigrated to Buenos Aires in the early 1900s, he switched professions and opened up a wine and canned goods distributor. The business morphed into a popular dispensa (general store) and neighborhood hangout for tango singers, poets, artists, and gauchos. Fast forward a century, when Zoppi’s grandson and great-grandson took over the space, uncovering a trove of turn-of-the-century memorabilia and a wine cellar filled with more than 2,000 antique bottles of Campari, Cinzano, and local spirits aged in perfect condition. They restored the interior and continued the place’s legacy in the form of a cantina, serving an updated spin on traditional Argentine drinks and dishes. Yiyo is a bit of a trek outside of the city center, so go on a Sunday for lunch and pair it with a visit to the nearby Feria de Mataderos, one of the best markets in the country. [$$$]

A table filled with bright colorful dishes, a red cocktail, bottles of aged amaro and seltzer
Drinks and snacks
Martín Piccinati

1. Alo’s

Blanco Encalada 2120, B1609 Boulogne, Buenos Aires, Argentina
From above, a stone bowl filled with stew consisting of noodles, egg, chorizo, and a smear of beans

Sorpresine in broth.

Alo’s/Facebook

It’s worth the trek to the San Isidro suburb to taste the dishes emerging from Alejandro Féraud’s open kitchen. This modern bistro, which opens for breakfast, lunch, and dinner, quickly became a hit for its unique way of transforming familiar Argentine flavors. [$$$$]

Blanco Encalada 2120, B1609 Boulogne
Buenos Aires, Argentina

2. Narda Comedor

C1428DUB, Mariscal Antonio José de Sucre 664, C1428DUB CABA, Argentina
A bowl of whole roasted onion surrounded by mashed potato and broth, and topped with nuts and other garnishes

“The onion,” a classic dish at Narda Comedor.

Eugenio Mazzinghi

Narda Lepes is a household name in Argentina. She stars in cooking and travel shows, writes cookbooks, hosts a radio show, and sells her own line of supermarket products and kitchen appliances. Narda Comedor, her restaurant in Bajo Belgrano, takes after a mess hall, but the kitchen puts vegetables on the main stage. Many items are inspired by Lepes’s travels across Asia, the Middle East, and Latin America, and a talented crew of cooks serves dishes for breakfast, lunch, merienda (tea time), and dinner. [$$$]

C1428DUB, Mariscal Antonio José de Sucre 664
C1428DUB CABA, Argentina

3. Corte Comedor

Av. Olazábal 1395, C1428 C1428ASK, Buenos Aires, Argentina
A large cut of meat with distinct bones and marbling sits on a butcher counter
Great meat from Corte Carniceria next door
Corte Carniceria / Facebook

Even though Uruguayan chef (and Francis Mallmann disciple) Santiago Garat constantly changes the menu, you can expect him to serve top-quality sirloin, skirt steak, rib-eye, pork loin, and all of the homemade chorizos. Don’t miss the spicy lamb merguez starter or seasonal vegetable side dishes. And make sure to hop next door to Corte Carniceria, one of the best butcher shops in the city, to shop for sausages, pork, and dry-aged beef. [$$$]

Av. Olazábal 1395, C1428 C1428ASK
Buenos Aires, Argentina

4. La Kitchen

Nuñez 3400, C1429 CABA, Argentina
A tray of sugar-dusted croissants bursting with jam
Raspberry jam croissants
La Kitchen

Found in residential Saavedra, this northside bakery and cafe favorite pumps out very memorable baked goods. Sweet and savory fosforitos are usually found at birthday parties and family gatherings, but it’s always a good time to enjoy sweet-glazed pastry dough filled with ham and cheese. Many customers come for chipas, sandwiches of pastrami on pletzalej, and croissants exploding with raspberry jam. La Kitchen recently expanded their original tiny location and now has ample indoor and outdoor patio seating. [$$]

Nuñez 3400
C1429 CABA, Argentina

5. Heladeria Gruta

Mariscal Antonio José de Sucre 2356, C1428 CABA, Argentina
A heladeria worker scoops ice cream into a cone
Serving up helado
Heladeria Gruta

While Argentina might be famous for its beef, the unsung hero of the food scene is the helado. The Italian-style gelato is a big deal in BA, especially at this family-owned Belgrano ice cream shop that has been making the artisanal sweet treat for over 43 years. If it’s too hard to choose from the 50 flavors, go with their most popular trifecta: dulce de leche, sambayón, and chocolate. Hot tip: If you order half a kilo or more, they will top your ice cream with their homemade caramelized almonds. [$]

Mariscal Antonio José de Sucre 2356
C1428 CABA, Argentina

6. Anafe

Virrey Avilés 3216, C1426 CABA, Argentina
A plate of pasta with multiple sauces for topping besides a glass of rose wine
Pasta and wine at Anafe
@buenospaladaires_

After hosting wildly popular pop-ups, chefs Mica Najmanovich and Nicolas Arcucci opened Anafe, where the vibe is laid-back but the dishes are anything but relaxed. The chefs reinterpret Eastern European, Italian, and Middle Eastern cuisines in small plates that emphasize texture, freshness, and flavor. Vegetarians won’t leave hungry either, since more than half of the menu is meat-free. The wine list features an excellent selection of boutique wines. Save room for dessert. [$$$]

Virrey Avilés 3216
C1426 CABA, Argentina

7. Atelier Fuerza Dos

Delgado 1461, C1426BDW CABA, Argentina
Alfajore sandwiches with pink cream surrounded by blond cookies, with slices of dried strawberry decorating the outside
Strawberry cream alfajores
Atelier Fuerza Dos

Francisco Seubert started baking sourdough bread in his home after watching some how-to YouTube videos. He began selling it outside specialty coffee shops around the city, and today, he’s the co-owner of Atelier Fuerza, one of the fastest-growing bakeries in the country. With a team of young bakers, AF is on a mission to put Argentina’s beloved bakery culture in the spotlight, honoring traditional favorites like ricotta cake, pastafrola, palmeritas, alfajores, coquitos, and chipa. The shop is best suited to quick coffee and pastries for takeaway due to limited space. [$]

Delgado 1461
C1426BDW CABA, Argentina

8. Mishiguene

Lafinur 3368, C1425FAJ CABA, Argentina
A decorative bowl filled with hummus topped with a heaping mound of vegetables, meat, and herbs
Hummus with chicken heart, vegetables, and herbs at Mishiguene
Mishiguene / Facebook

This isn’t your bubbe’s shabbat dinner. The upscale Jewish eatery by chef Tomás Kalika recreates Ashkenazi, Sephardic, Israeli, and Middle Eastern dishes using fresh ingredients and modern techniques in a way that both intrigues and evokes nostalgia. The bone-in pastrami will leave you utterly verklempt. [$$$$]

Lafinur 3368
C1425FAJ CABA, Argentina

9. Casa Cavia

Cavia 2985, C1425DDA CABA, Argentina
A dish at Casa Cavia
Photo: Casa Cavia

Casa Cavia looks like it was taken directly from a Vogue photoshoot. The beautiful old house shares a space with a cultural center, publisher, bar, florist shop, cafe, and restaurant. Sit outside in the garden for a boozy weekday lunch, afternoon merienda (teatime), or relaxed pre-dinner drinks. Chef Julieta Caruso (an alum of Mugaritz) designed the restaurant menu, which tends to take inspiration from seasonal ingredients, while the bar serves some of the best cocktails in the neighborhood. [$$$$]

Cavia 2985
C1425DDA CABA, Argentina

10. Catalino

C1426CVH, Maure 3126, C1426CVH CABA, Argentina
From above, large bone-in ribs on stained wax paper with a heap of french fries
Wild boar ribs, fries, chimi
Catalino/Facebook

Catalino first began as a puerta cerrada (closed-door restaurant), a popular Buenos Aires restaurant model trending over the last decade. Now, their doors are open to the general public for “cocina sincera,” sincere food carefully sourced with agroecological ingredients. Relax in the beautiful patio oasis and try dishes like a choripan (sausage sandwich) with chimichurri and criolla sauce, wild boar ribs, and flan with homemade dulce de leche for dessert. [$$$]

C1426CVH, Maure 3126
C1426CVH CABA, Argentina

11. La Mezzetta

Av. Álvarez Thomas 1321, C1427 CDA, Buenos Aires, Argentina