Where the ‘60 Minutes’ Batali News Leaves Us

This post originally appeared on May 26, 2018, in Amanda Kludt’s newsletter “From the Editor,” a roundup of the most vital news and stories in the food world each week. Read the archives and subscribe now.

On May 20, new allegations emerged against celeb chef Mario Batali. Two different women have accused him of rape, and a manager says she intervened during a sexual assault. The police are now investigating the claims. I’ve been wondering if a story like this would come out ever since our original report on Batali’s sexual misconduct ran in December, and especially since the subsequent Times piece last month about his dipping his toes into the comeback waters.

While I’m not happy this is the state of things, I admit I’m relieved — as an observer of this story and as someone who has heard some truly haunting off-the-record accounts — that the public understands the severity of the accusations against Batali. This wasn’t just a slip up or a drinking problem or a power play. This was (allegedly) brazen and far reaching and chronic, and, depending on what the cops can prove, criminal.

“Do you think he will have a comeback?” is a question I’ve been getting a lot over the past five months.

I continually respond, “Not if he ends up in jail.”

In related news on the Bad Man beat, April Bloomfield is officially ending her 15-year-long business relationship with partner Ken Friedman, who was accused of misconduct in December. Both partners pulled out of Salvation Taco. And prominent players at SF’s Tosca Cafe left the restaurant this week after failing to buy it from those two.

Meanwhile, Batali’s partners said they would complete the process of buying him out by July 1, and three of his Las Vegas restaurants will close in July 27. Also: ABC canceled his old show The Chew.

Opening of the week: Atomix

Photography by Louise Palmberg

Who’s behind it?: Ellia and Junghyun Park.

What is it?: A fine-dining follow up to Korean hit Atoboy. It’s a bi-level tasting-menu restaurant with a $175-a-head, 10-course, seafood-heavy menu.

Where is it?: East 30th St., New York.

When will it open?: Wednesday, May 30.

Why should I care?: Atoboy is good. And I love that the Korean scene in New York continues to evolve and expand with new compelling indie restaurants opening year after year, but this is really the first fine-dining entrée since Jungsik opened more than five years ago. Also, I feel like the upscale bunker aesthetic that was kind of big in LA a couple years ago has made its way to NYC. Nuclear war chic, perhaps.

On Eater

• Intel: Major Food Group opened their splashy tiki bar Polynesian in New York; wonderful LA restaurant Lukshon now has a tasting menu; Seattle’s Ethan Stowell opened a Mexican restaurant called Super Bueno; Dave Chang responded to the somewhat-controversial Jonathan Gold review of Majordomo; lol a big-deal Dallas chef took a vacation to Thailand, so now he’s opening a restaurant serving Thai food and sushi; the woman accusing management at Le Bernardin of sexual harassment dropped her lawsuit; super buzzy and luxe NYC restaurant The Grill just jacked up a bunch of its prices to celebrate its one-year birthday; Jim Meehan’s new Chicago bar closed after eight months in business; Publix censored a “Summa Cum Laude” cake to read “Summa ___ Laude”; the Jose Garces v. his investors fight rages on in bankruptcy court; Giada De Laurentiis’s Baltimore casino restaurant opened; Chipotle is moving its HQ from Colorado to California; huge-deal UK chef Clare Smyth secretly catered the royal wedding; major Philly player Greg Vernick will open a new seafood restaurant this fall; a fun-sounding Japanese snack shackwill open in Provincetown this summer; last fall’s tragic California fires led to a bumper crop of morel mushrooms; a bar specializing in French dip sandwiches will open in Denver this July; there’s a wine bar boom in Portland; and Trump isn’t allowed to eat at Nobu.
• Everything you need to know about Netflix reality show Terrace House.
• I knew nothing about cult favorite the Mad Greek Diner, out in the middle of the desert between LA and Vegas, until reading this piece exploring its iconic status and wild success.
• Kombucha’s unlikely rise from Soviet elixir to modern-day miracle drink.
• Watch: The Tuna King of the Tsukiji Market.
• How one of my favorite NYC greasy spoons Eisenberg’s has lasted 89 years despite the odds and changing owners.
• Baker Claire Ptak on meeting with fellow Californian Meghan Markle, choosing her wedding cake flavor, and baking for the royal wedding.
• All the permutations and variations of shave ice (there are many!), explained.
• Reviews: Che Fico in San Francisco, and Bill’s newsletter appreciation for Atelier Crenn (you can click here to get his newsletter twice a month).

Photography by Patricia Chang

On the Upsell

Last week on the Eater Upsell, we delve into all the issues raised by Eater special correspondent Meghan McCarron’s March feature on Tex-Mex cuisine. She appears on the show, along with taco journalist Mando Rayo, to discuss the origins of Tex-Mex, why the cuisine doesn’t get the same respect as barbecue, the dual negative effects of Taco Bell and Mexican scholar Diana Kennedy on the cuisine, and what Tex-Mex lovers can do to support mom-and-pops across Texas. Listen here or on Apple podcasts.

Off Eater

• Every time you catch yourself thinking, Man, I miss the old glory days of media, while reading this incredible oral history of Time Inc., you have to stop and think, Oh right, but women and POC. [NYT]
• I learned so many things about cult convenience store Wawa, but mostly it makes… so much… money, is owned privately and by employees, and now has 800 locations. [Inc.]
• Can’t explain how depressing this style of #mealprepping is to me. [Digg]
• What wedding cakes look like in 2018. [The Cut]
• Forget authenticity and first-, second-, and third-wave fusion — this is a celebration of hybrid restaurants serving two cuisines side by side. [MEL]
• The cost of being a #metoo whistleblower. [Longreads]
• Chef Daniel Humm went to India for 16 days to cook two dinners and fell in love with the spices and wants to go back and do yoga every day. [Hindu Times]
• Please brace for even more avocados everywhere because supply is up and prices are down. Would be surprised if the savings will be passed down to the consumer, but we’ll see. [Bloomberg]

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