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Even the ‘Great’ Restaurant Groups Can Foster Bad Behavior

From the Editor: Eater’s latest regional 38 guide, a disappointing revelation about Union Square Hospitality Group, and more

Photo illustration by Eater; photos by Felix Man/GettyVincent Besnault/GettyDimitrios Kambouris/Getty

This post originally appeared on March 10, 2018, in Amanda Kludt’s newsletter “From the Editor,” a roundup of the most vital news and stories in the food world each week. Read the archives and subscribe now.

First, please check out our new guide to eating through Texas. We’ve been publishing regional versions of our 38 guides for a couple years now, but this one is completely blown out, with recs on where to stay and what to do when you aren’t eating, Bill Addison’s take on the state of Texas dining, and a :fire: piece by Meghan McCarron about all the complex and fraught reasons why Tex-Mex doesn’t get the pride of place it deserves compared to barbecue. You will devour it, I promise.

Illustrations by Paige Vickers

Second, I want to call out Eater’s latest investigation into sexual harassment in the restaurant industry, this time at legendary restaurateur Danny Meyer’s Union Square Hospitality Group. At a restaurant group as big as his, there are bound to be bad actors. But our sources were incredibly frustrated by the fact that certain chefs were given second, third, fourth chances when there should be a zero-tolerance policy for harassment.

Meyer either knew this was happening and thought the HR response — sensitivity training instead of firing for at least two chefs with repeated complaints — was satisfactory, or he didn’t know and was out of touch with the problems of the rank and file. As a longtime fan of the work Danny Meyer has done to professionalize the industry, both options are disappointing. I’m at least heartened by hearing that they’ve been cleaning house since the fall.

Opening of the week: Crustacean

The vegan hearts of palm “crab cake” at Crustacean
Photo by Wonho Frank Lee

Who’s behind it?: Helene An, with chef Tony Nguyen.

What is it?: This is the reopening of a glitzy, two decade-old, celeb fave. The revamped restaurant will feature a brand-new design and a new menu with a mix of classics (caviar-topped tuna egg rolls presented in smoking cigar boxes, for one) and a variety of rethought Vietnamese items.

Where is it?: Beverly Hills, Los Angeles

When did it open?: It’s officially reopening on Tuesday, March 13.

Why should I care?: I’m mostly intrigued by the plate in the lead image. Also, it’s fun when a longstanding place tries to reinvent itself, not just with a casual refresh, but with an out-and-out makeover (complete with an underfloor water feature).

On Eater

Off Eater

On a recent Sunday afternoon, Mr. Ghotra, 46, and Ms. Kaur, 45, hurried into the restaurant, which has been in soft-opening mode since August and will officially open this spring. They had parked their olive Maserati Levante so it stretched over two handicapped spots.

Ms. Kaur, who speaks rapidly and mainly in superlatives, was talking about getting her hair colored at the salon, while Mr. Ghotra, the more subdued, data-minded half of the pair, quietly organized the business cards at the host stand.

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