Eater: All Posts by Madeline Muzzihttps://cdn.vox-cdn.com/community_logos/52682/favicon-32x32.png2020-02-04T12:48:17-05:00https://www.eater.com/authors/madeline-muzzi/rss2020-02-04T12:48:17-05:002020-02-04T12:48:17-05:00Pizza Wheels Are Inadequate — Use a Rocking Pizza Cutter Instead
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<figcaption>There’s a scientific reason so many pizza cutters are bad at their jobs. | Bill Addison/Eater</figcaption>
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<p>It’s the superior way to slice a pie</p> <p id="MLoKzD">Most wheel-shaped pizza cutters have a fundamental design flaw. Because of this, they’re flimsy, they’re impractical, and above all, they’re an inefficient use of force. I can’t count the times I’ve rolled one over a pie only to find that it barely made a dent in the crust. </p>
<p id="vYrFSn">Think about the way you use a traditional pizza wheel (not the ones with blade covers that <a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DLHGV2E/ref=sspa_dk_detail_3?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B01DLHGV2E&pd_rd_w=KGVaJ&pf_rd_p=c83c55b0-5d97-454a-a592-a891098a9709&pd_rd_wg=Lu2ip&pf_rd_r=S6TPCQ450ZTJETTVZDX9&pd_rd_r=35c2f26c-7448-4a2f-8120-69e6682d118d&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEzUjBLUFo0NVZPVDgyJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUExMDMzNDczQkFJQVZCM044UTdOJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTA2MDc5ODJDUTk5NVRCWUpVNVMmd2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9kZXRhaWxfdGhlbWF0aWMmYWN0aW9uPWNsaWNrUmVkaXJlY3QmZG9Ob3RMb2dDbGljaz10cnVl&tag=eater0c-20" rel="sponsored nofollow noopener" target="_blank">look like this</a>): Your arm is extended, and you’re grasping the wheel’s handle. To make a cut, you have to push down at an angle while sliding the wheel forward. I won’t pretend to have a PhD in physics — I’m just a girl, standing in front of a pizza wheel, wondering why it’s so bad at its job — but from a physics perspective, there are <em>so many</em> problems here. Luckily, the answer can be found at approximately a 9th grade science level. And while wheel-shaped cutters with handles are an affront to logic, there’s another style that gets it right: the <a href="https://www.amazon.com/Mezzaluna-Chopper-Pizza-Rocker-Cutter/dp/B077QFHJ8P/ref=sr_1_10?keywords=rocker+pizza+cutter&qid=1580406273&sr=8-10&tag=eater0c-20" rel="sponsored nofollow noopener" target="_blank"><strong>rocking pizza cutter</strong></a>. </p>
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<p id="7flzsf">Imagine this: Your pizza crust is thick, and you’re struggling to cut through it with a pizza wheel. Intuitively, you lift the handle up so that it forms a steeper angle relative to the blade, and you can press down directly to make the cut. A steeper angle equals greater downwards force. If you were struggling to move the wheel forward, however, you’d aim for a shallower angle, dropping the handle down and setting it up like a pool player holding a cue. The problem is that the conventional pizza wheel asks us to cut downwards and forwards at the same time by holding the handle at about 45 degrees. This effectively halves your force, splitting it between the two directions. Instead of accomplishing both cuts, you accomplish neither. </p>
<p id="Uy3AfI">Now, consider rocking pizza cutter, a simple tool consisting of one long curved blade with handles, either running the length of the blade or rising up at 90 degree angles on either side. To cut your pizza you just grab the handles and push straight down. All of the force you’re applying will travel straight into the pizza where it belongs. Instead of rolling a wheel forward to cut across the width of the pizza, you simply rock the blade to one side while continuing to apply downwards pressure. With a single firm push, the pizza cutter will easily snap through the crust, whether it’s a bubbly Neapolitan slice or a thick and chewy Sicilian pie. Plus, rocking pizza cutters are sturdy. Unlike pizza wheels, there are no moving parts, so a rocking pizza cutter will never break. For added flair, they come in aesthetics ranging from <a href="https://www.amazon.com/Lamson-Rocker-Stainless-Riveted-Walnut/dp/B0018MZCP2/ref=sr_1_37?keywords=rocking+pizza+cutter&qid=1579783741&sr=8-37&tag=eater0c-20" rel="sponsored nofollow noopener" target="_blank">handsome with walnut handles</a> to <a href="https://www.amazon.com/Mezzaluna-Knife-Pizza-Cutter-Rocker/dp/B01MA1H14C/ref=sr_1_3_sspa?crid=34KJY0JF7ABKU&keywords=rocking+pizza+cutter&qid=1578863236&sprefix=rocking+pizza+%2Caps%2C209&sr=8-3-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExRFRJN0VJODE2MFNQJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMjU1OTE2MUdFVzZDSlA3MjRPSSZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwMDY0NDg1M09QTzFTNzNCWUE3SSZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU%3D&tag=eater0c-20" rel="sponsored nofollow noopener" target="_blank">medieval weapon</a>.</p>
<p id="JYw17J">If you have a pizza wheel and you love it, I’m happy for you. If, however, you have a wheel that essentially cuts a dotted line through all of your pizzas, a rocking pizza cutter is the clear solution. </p>
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https://www.eater.com/2020/2/4/21115186/best-way-to-slice-a-pizza-rocking-pizza-cutterMadeline Muzzi2019-05-23T10:26:42-04:002019-05-23T10:26:42-04:00A Town Drowned in the Smell of Fish Sauce
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<p>What will it take to clean up Newfoundland’s abandoned fish sauce factory?</p> <p class="p--has-dropcap p-large-text" id="mmZMNi">On a good day the wind blows the fumes right out to sea, but the residents of St. Mary’s, Newfoundland aren’t always that lucky. When the wind comes from the northeast, it carries the stench of over 100<strong> </strong>vats of rotten, nearly 20-year-old fish sauce into the homes and business of everyone in the tiny community. The reason: the hollowed-out shell of what was once the Atlantic Seafood Sauce Company, which closed its doors in 2001. </p>
<p id="CKoluB">At first the factory seemed like a good idea. When it originally opened in 1990, it was said to be bringing with it between 14 and 50 jobs, an opportunity that St. Mary’s current deputy mayor Steve Ryan equated with landing <a href="https://www.nytimes.com/2019/02/14/nyregion/amazon-hq2-queens.html">Amazon’s HQ2</a> in terms of its significance for the town: During the 2011 Canadian census, it had a population of 439. “For a town like this, 50 jobs is just amazing,” Ryan says, noting the factory would have also fed the municipal tax base. Unfortunately, the Atlantic Seafood Sauce Company was short lived, shuttering just 11 years after it opened, mired in regulations and legal battles. What residents are left with is a stink so strong that it feels like a wave; get hit, and it will knock you off your feet.</p>
<p id="qaKdci">According to Juliette “Sis” Lee, a St. Mary’s resident for more than four decades, the stench in the summer is “cruel,” “worse than rotten eggs.” “If you’re out there [near the factory], you <em>will </em>throw up,” she says, adding that she’s seen hikers walking along the road suddenly get sick when they catch a whiff. Lee has had to rearrange her life around the factory fumes; she parks her car at her brother-in-law’s house, and leaves her home entirely in the summer, boarding up the windows and doors in an attempt to keep the smell out of her belongings. Even though she’s one of the closest residents to the factory, she knows others — including those living at a retirement community less than .5 km away — are even more impacted. “I can get in my car and drive away,” she says. “Some of them can’t.” </p>
<p id="gD3b8Z">The fumes leave Lee feeling conflicted, in addition to nauseous. She loves her home, and the St. Mary’s community, but feels let down by the government’s ineffectual management of the problem. To her, it seems like the federal government is blaming the provincial government, and the provincial government is blaming the federal government: “They’re walking away from it,” she says. “We’ll take any help in the world to get it cleaned up, [but] everyone seems to have turned a blind eye.” </p>
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<p id="KSegvR">When it was built, the Atlantic Seafood Sauce factory served as a logical complement to the town’s largest employer, a fish processing plant right down the road. At the time, fishing was abundant in Canada, and many small towns in Newfoundland Labrador were centered around processing plants mostly open in the summer (in the off-season, employees would receive unemployment or travel to find other work). When it opened, the Atlantic Seafood Sauce factory processed capelin, a small fish native to the Arctic and North Atlantic and a primary food source for Atlantic cod. The processing plant exported female capelin to Japan, where their eggs are used in sushi preparation as masago, but the male capelin were simply dumped. Sahn Ngo, the owner of the Atlantic Seafood Sauce Company, decided to capitalize on that waste. </p>
<div class="c-float-right"><aside id="9wWhcp"><q>“You don’t stay in St. Mary’s. You pass through St. Mary’s because of the smell.” </q></aside></div>
<p id="oIRbsv">Ngo began to develop an understanding of fish sauce long before he made plans to open his factory. Prior to coming to Canada as a refugee in 1975, he served as a captain of a Vietnamese navy ship. During that time, Ngo made many visits to PhuQuoc, which he describes as “the capital of fish sauce in Vietnam.” By speaking with factory workers there, peering into “big vats” of fish sauce, and reading and researching on his own, he came to understand the process. According to Ngo, not just any fish can be used to make a good fish sauce: “It must [have] slippery skin, [and be] small and watery,” he says. The male capelin fit the bill, and the processing plant was happy to give them away rather than pay the required fee to dump them. </p>
<p id="dvbadK">In the late ’80s, unemployment was high in the Atlantic region, and the Canadian government created an agency to fund opportunities that’d bring jobs to the area. Ngo submitted plans for a fish sauce plant using male capelin, and was approved within a month. According to Ngo, the initial cost was around two million CAD, money necessary to built a 20,000-square-foot factory, purchase 120 4,000 gallon vats, and to afford the other equipment. As part of the program, the Canadian government would help offset those costs. Although the plan was approved right away, Ngo delayed construction for a year so that he could set up a fish sauce lab in his own basement and be sure he could manufacture a product good enough to sell internationally. </p>
<p id="BlKZmu">Ngo’s method took three months from start to finish. “The process is based on fermentation of the fish,” Ngo explains. It starts by mixing fish and salt in a large vat and leaving the mixture to ferment in a warm area. Over the following weeks the temperature and water levels are carefully controlled. Eventually the liquid is drained, and aged until it is clear, dark reddish brown in color, and the scent has matured to that “special smell which only come[s] from fish sauce.” Ngo is proud of the product he developed, and confidently recalls that at the factory’s grand opening “over 100 people” showed up, an impressive turnout for a town with a population under 500. </p>
<p id="rZJYke">But the project was in trouble before it fermented its first fish, due in part to the factory’s flawed building plans. Rather than durable cement, the building featured drywall construction. When this drywall came into contact with the excessive moisture evaporating into the air during the fermenting process, mold grew quickly. It was only 11 years before the Canadian Food Inspection agency (CFIA) shuttered the plant, and deemed the product unsafe. Ngo didn’t give up right away. He sent his product to be tested in a government lab in Ottawa, where it was found to be safe for consumption.</p>
<p id="KsCoMs">As the mayor at the time, and employed by of a board dedicated to developing business opportunities in St. Mary’s, Sylvester Yetman was instrumental in bringing the Atlantic Seafood Sauce company to town. Today, Yetman recalls the praise that the sauce garnered, saying that once, upon learning he lived in St. Mary’s, the owner of Vietnamese restaurant in Ontario immediately proclaimed Ngo’s fish sauce — which she had obtained a sample of during Ngo’s early testing of the product — to be his favorite on the market, and begged Yetman to put him in contact with Ngo. </p>
<p id="2gqQdJ">Yetman doesn’t deny the CFIA’s claim that the factory needed to be cleaned up, but also questions their authority on the product. “In my opinion they didn’t really have an understanding of the fish sauce, or of the fermenting process,” he says. He also calls into question why the Department of Fisheries and Oceans, which was shortly taken over by CFIA, approved the plans for the drywall factory at all. Ngo shares skepticism about the CFIA’s inspection process. He suggests that a prior conflict with the CFIA over product labeling motivated them to close the factory before the inspection began. Ngo claims that he had been vocal about their interactions, and speculates “if they shut [us] down, nobody makes any complaints anymore.” </p>
<p id="C9bwQF">After the government-run lab found Ngo’s product to be safe, he went on to win a court case and an appeal against the government. Even after those victories, the CFIA moved to restrict the sales of his product to the province of Newfoundland. “If I sell there, who will use my product?” Ngo says, pointing out the small population of Newfoundland and its non-existent Vietnamese community. “I could sell maybe one or two cases a month[...] we can’t survive.” The CFIA declined to comment, citing the amount of time that has passed since filing its initial complaint. </p>
<p id="GwwGpG">But for Ngo, their ruling proved too restrictive to run a profitable factory. “We still had one million liters of fish sauce there,” he says. “The value on the market [was] about three million dollars, but they would not let us sell it. And for that reason, we just [left] it there.” </p>
<p id="eCYa1y">Ngo feels that he ran a good business, and the government unfairly barred him from operating. In his view, if the government wouldn’t allow him to sell the product, they could handle the disposal. Ngo paid off his debts before leaving, and feels the matter is settled. Although prior coverage of the factory closure portrayed Ngo as a ghost who absconded his duties, he doesn’t feel that way. To this day he spends half of the year in Canada, though not often in St. Mary’s. “The community is still very good to me,” he says. “When I go there I see my failure; that’s the reason I don’t want to go there.”</p>
<div class="c-float-left"><aside id="4jkPp0"><q>“We know there’s lots of mold in there. I don’t think it’s been definitively tested.”</q></aside></div>
<p id="3vBQ40">The factory is a painful memory for Ngo, but for those currently in St. Mary’s, it continues to define a painful present. After a 1992 moratorium of the cod fishing industry, many of St. Mary’s neighboring communities developed tourism-based economies. As part of the Irish Loop, a string of small scenic towns along the coast of the Avalon Peninsula, St. Mary’s should be positioned to join them in their success, but some residents fear that the factory is holding them back. Travelers often drive through the Irish Loop and stop in small towns along the way, but, according to resident Juliette Lee, “you don’t stay in St. Mary’s. You pass through St. Mary’s because of the smell.” </p>
<p id="bzgJaP">Patrick Monsigneur has lived in St. Mary’s for 10 years. He and his wife relocated after their children moved out and they retired, originally drawn by the beauty of the land and of St. Mary’s harbor; “it was Newfoundland that brought us out here,” he explained simply. Today, he and his wife run the Claddagh Inn, a small lodge with a view of the St. Mary’s Harbour, and of the abandoned factory. As a business owner, he has tried to work with the municipality to get the plant cleaned up, or at least evaluated for toxicity. “We know there’s lots of mold in there,” he says. “I don’t think it’s been definitively tested.” These worries were echoed by residents who’ve seen inspectors enter the factories in hazmat suits and respirators, noticed that rats have fled the premises, and wondered what exactly they might be breathing in.</p>
<p id="lWCa9P">There’s not a lot known about spills of this nature, according to Don MacDonald, the Canadian Director of the Sustainable Fisheries Foundation and a certified fisheries scientist. By his best estimation, the odors are coming from trimethylamine and dimethylamine, two of the chemical compounds associated with characteristically fishy scents. Though they’re unpleasant, they’re unlikely to be toxic in an open-air environment. </p>
<p id="pOmL4r">Unfortunately, there could also be some more pernicious gasses and bacteria at play. “Most likely a fish is 20 to 30 percent protein, the rest is moisture and a few other minerals,” MacDonald explains. “When protein breaks down, it breaks down into ammonia, or hydrogen sulfide if it’s in an oxygen-free environment.” Both of those gases can be toxic, but MacDonald says that they only pose a great risk if inhaled at a high concentration, like in the environment inside the ruined factory: “You don’t want to go in there if you don’t have to.” The greatest health threat to the community would occur if runoff from the factory were to enter a water source, what MacDonald says would be a “very very serious problem.” A slow run off from the factory over time is unlikely to cause major problems, but if a large amount of the substance were to enter the ocean all at once, it could result in localized damage, and perhaps a temporary low-oxygen level in the water, which would lead to a fish kill in the harbor. This sudden jettisoning of rotten fish sauce into the harbor is only likely to happen if the entire factory crumbles into the sea. Unfortunately, some residents believe that just such a disaster is imminent. </p>
<p id="Swbu9u">Steve Ryan has observed the factory conditions growing steadily worse over the past several years. “One side of the roof is ready to cave in, and on the other side the ocean is coming in under the building,” he says. Ryan fears that if either of those events occur, the entire town could need to be evacuated. </p>
<p id="kZ6NsL">Perhaps the most promising and most discouraging event for the factory happened in 2016. That year, the provincial government approved a cleanup plan, and a private company began the process. But the cleanup was halted soon after it started when it became clear that the contractors were dumping several dozen vats of rotten fish sauce directly into the ocean. According to Ryan, the provincial government ordered the factory’s drains to be blocked to prevent any more sauce from seeping into the ocean. Now fish sauce that leaks from the remaining vats pools on the factory floor. Now, rather than being contained, the fermented mixture of water, salt, and fish carcasses covered the entire factory floor. </p>
<p id="uQwJ4i">In response, Steve Ryan worked to find a new contractor; drawing up a new plan for clean up, locating a waste site, and lining up everything but the money. The current contractor quoted Ryan a price of around $700,000 CAD (approximately $522,000 USD) to cart the waste to an approved dumping site 5 hours away, a cost that just isn’t possible with the small tax base in St. Mary’s. </p>
<p id="y9Md5I">“Whatever money we get as a town we put into our water and our sewage system; we’d never be able to handle a million dollar cleanup project as a town,” Ryan says. There’s no path forward unless the larger provincial and federal governments provide funding. Sherry Gambin-Walsh represents the district of Placentia-St. Mary’s in the provincial government, and according to her, finding the money isn’t that simple. “You have to decide where you’re going to spend the money health care or cleaning up,” she says. Gambin-Walsh also states that the factory isn’t solely a provincial responsibility, saying that “the three partners need to come to the table to get this done: Federal government, provincial government, municipal government.” </p>
<p class="c-end-para" id="ZmemXG">When asked if the factory will be a priority if she’s elected, Walsh insists that any concern of her constituents is a priority, but also that this isn’t the only abandoned building in her district. She has never personally smelled the factory. </p>
<p id="I8pGqF"><a href="https://muzzi.pizza/"><small><em>Madeline Muzzi</em></small></a><small><em> is a writer and video producer based in Brooklyn, NY. </em></small><a href="http://www.sarahleegrillo.com/"><small><em>Sarah Grillo</em></small></a><small><em> is a NYC-based illustrator who loves travel and food, and is currently a Senior Visual Journalist at Axios.</em></small><br><small><em>Fact-checker: Samantha Schuyler</em></small><br><small><em>Editor: Erin DeJesus</em></small></p>
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https://www.eater.com/2019/5/23/18634704/st-marys-irish-loop-newfoundland-smell-fermenting-atlantic-seafood-sauceMadeline Muzzi2017-06-22T16:41:30-04:002017-06-22T16:41:30-04:00Suzi An Is Making Restaurant Dreams Come True
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<p>In Seattle, the creative director puts her mark on Junebaby and Salare</p> <p class="p--has-dropcap p-large-text" id="Zjufyh">When Suzi An started her career, she knew that she loved food and hated desk jobs, but she needed to figure the rest out. Meeting the right chef made that process a little easier. </p>
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<p id="J0USDp">An was working as a server at Seattle’s Bar Sajor in 2014 when she first met chef Edouardo Jordan. She was immediately inspired by his creativity, his drive, and his “no fucks attitude.” Within three weeks of working together, An approached Jordan and said,“I don’t know what your future plans are, but I’d love to come work with you at some point.” A year later chef Jordan came back to her with an idea, and things started to fall into place. The pair began building Jordan’s first restaurant from the ground up — DIY construction projects and all. Today, An reflects on escaping a traditional desk life: “It’s hard to say what an average day looks like for me, and I think I like it that way.” </p>
<div class="c-float-right"><div id="QOx8EA"><a href="https://www.eater.com/2017/6/22/15785782/eater-young-guns-best-new-chefs-restaurateurs"><img src="https://cdn1.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_asset/file/8686429/Logo_assets_01.png"></a></div></div>
<p id="QqYCV2">An currently serves as the creative director of operations for both Salare and Junebaby, two restaurants in Seattle’s Ravenna neighborhood. For Asian-American An and African-American Jordan, these globally inspired restaurants make sense. Salare, one of Eater’s <a href="https://www.eater.com/2016/7/21/12226912/best-new-restaurants-2016">2016 best new restaurants</a>, is Italian-driven with influences from the American South, the Caribbean Islands, and myriad African and European food traditions. And now there’s Junebaby, a “<a href="https://seattle.eater.com/2017/4/26/15435250/junebaby-edouardo-jordan-open">deeply personal exploration</a>” of Southern food complete with an <a href="https://www.junebabyseattle.com/encyclo/">encyclopedia</a> of the “terms, dishes, and places <a href="https://www.eater.com/2017/4/5/15181534/edouardo-jordan-junebaby-seattle-opening-menu-encyclopedia">that play a role in the cuisine</a>.” An’s in charge of taking the cooking concepts and turning them into a business.</p>
<p id="FDmO9K">Over the years, her scope has expanded significantly. She started out as a server and publicist, but her role has grown to include creative direction, team management, and even wine buying, which she offered to take on when she saw the need at Salare. An is deeply invested in her team; the part of her job that she loves the most is seeing her employees grow professionally and personally. The staff has a very real say in what happens at the restaurant, but that also means servers need to understand the vision. To work with An and Jordan, you need to have passion. In An’s mind, “If they’re not happy, then nobody’s happy. And that goes for both front of house and back of house.”</p>
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<p id="3Ph0Mo">When it comes to the restaurants, An and Jordan aren’t content to settle for simply serving good food. Salare and Junebaby both offer cuisines you can’t find anywhere else in Seattle. Both restaurants are located in North Seattle, an area populated mostly by upper-middle-class families. For An, a big challenge is making diners feel comfortable, while still introducing them to new cuisines. They’ve struck a balance by combining the familiar with the new.</p>
<p id="dhaire">At Salare, the menus are approachable — “when people look at it they know what pastas are,” An says, “but when people actually taste a dish, the flavors are completely unexpected.”</p>
<p id="CfyRvZ">And at Junebaby, the team takes a slightly more unconventional approach. Jordan’s menu is accompanied by a glossary of terms that An spent countless hours researching and writing. By providing diners with the glossary, An and Jordan hope that everyone will be able to come to the table with the same understanding, and that new dining experiences will feel within reach. </p>
<p id="T0hveL">Luckily, the effort is paying off. Junebaby is a hit with neighborhood residents and a destination too, something that An credits equally to the food and the man cooking it. “There are no other solid Southern restaurants in Seattle proper and I think people craved it.” </p>
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<p id="Ey9wDR">Jordan and An have honed a smooth professional relationship through the process of opening two restaurants. Jordan’s name might be the one that appears in the press more often, but An isn’t concerned about the spotlight. “I think we’re both supporting roles for each other,” she says. Working on the public image of the restaurant and leaving the food to Jordan allows An to put her own mark on the restaurant’s identity in a way the line cooks can’t. “The chef de cuisine puts out food that’s in line with Chef’s creative vision, but in my role, I have a little bit more creative freedom.” She especially takes care with the wine lists, thoughtfully adding bottles to the menu and highlighting her favorites <a href="https://www.instagram.com/imsuzijane/">on Instagram</a>.</p>
<p class="c-end-para" id="1CscLE">Ultimately, the idea of “celebrity” isn’t what draws An to food, it’s the people who build restaurants: “I don’t mind playing the supporting role,” An says. “I don’t want fame. What I really truly enjoy on a personal level is seeing other people’s dreams come true.” </p>
<h2 id="pXOWaL"><a href="https://www.eater.com/2017/6/22/15785782/eater-young-guns-best-new-chefs-restaurateurs">Find the full list of 2017 Young Guns here <strong>→</strong></a></h2>
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https://www.eater.com/2017/6/22/15803010/suzi-an-junebaby-salare-seattleMadeline Muzzi2017-05-22T13:01:01-04:002017-05-22T13:01:01-04:00Watch: The English Breakfast With a Spicy Twist
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<p>Dishoom takes inspiration from old Irani cafes in Mumbai</p> <p id="RWG7N1">Nick Solares has had countless English breakfasts in his life, but in this episode of <em>The Meat Show</em>, he stops by Dishoom in Kings Cross, London to expand his horizons a bit. Dishoom is a beloved Indian restaurant that draws inspiration from the old Irani cafes that used to be a staple in Mumbai, formerly known as Bombay. </p>
<p id="dNNaoD">Solares’s mission is to taste the “Big Bombay,” Dishoom’s take on the classic English breakfast that includes ginger bacon, black pepper pork sausage, masala beans, and <em>akuri</em>, an Indian dish similar to scrambled eggs. Kavi Thakrar, who refers to himself as the “Head Babu” at Dishoom, describes his cooking philosophy thusly: “Our food is about Bombay, and most of it is exactly what you’ll find there, it’s what we love eating whenever we’re there.” </p>
<p id="zC76Ec">Check out the full video above to hear what professional carnivore Solares thinks about the meaty breakfast at Dishoom.</p>
<p id="RzDuYZ"><a href="https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLUeEVLHfB5-SXVvGyBE_sAXRuO5t2wape">Click here to watch more <em>The Meat Show</em></a> | <a href="https://www.youtube.com/user/eater1">Click here to subscribe to Eater on YouTube</a></p>
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https://www.eater.com/video/2017/5/22/15667656/dishoom-london-breakfast-meat-show-videoMadeline Muzzi2017-02-24T16:02:01-05:002017-02-24T16:02:01-05:00Cooking With Cod Sperm Is Surprisingly Simple
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<p>Two ways to prepare shirako</p> <p id="MyWDdu">Every sustainably minded meat eater’s dream is to be able to consume the entire animal: The nose to tail movement — or in this case, nose to fin — is all about not wasting a thing. When it come to eating animals, this can mean indulging in some, shall we say, less Instagram-friendly cuts. In this week’s episode of <em>Fresh Catch</em>, Eater’s live seafood explainer series, Adam Gerringer-Dunn of <a href="http://www.greenpointfish.com/">Greenpoint Fish & Lobster Co</a>. explains how to prep and enjoy cod milt, also known as <em>shirako</em>, also known as the sperm sacs of an adult cod.</p>
<p id="td3y8K">Milt isn’t commonly served in the U.S., but it’s widely eaten in Japan. The best way to find milt in the U.S. is to work with a local fishmonger. Even though it can be a difficult ingredient to track down, it’s not difficult to prepare. Gerringer-Dunn served the milt two ways: Pan-fried in butter with a little hot sauce, and in a more traditional steamed dish with dashi and roe. Once it’s cooked, the resulting dish isn’t fishy at all. It’s mild and custardy, and pairs well with bolder flavors. </p>
<p id="UJdkJA">To see this process in action, check out the video above. For more lessons in seafood, head to <a href="https://www.facebook.com/eater/">Eater’s Facebook page</a> Thursdays at 11 a.m. to catch new episodes of <em>Fresh Catch</em>. Each week Geringer-Dunn will walk live viewers through preparation of a sustainable fish, mollusk, crustacean, or bivalve.</p>
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https://www.eater.com/video/2017/2/24/14728270/cod-sperm-how-to-cookMadeline Muzzi2017-02-17T14:32:01-05:002017-02-17T14:32:01-05:00Watch: How to Open, Prep, and Enjoy Razor Clams
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<p>Almost the entire creature is edible</p> <p id="fvs0wE">Technically, razor clams are in the same family as cherrystone and littleneck, but they don’t look anything like the clams typically found in linguine. In this week’s episode of <em>Fresh Catch</em>, Eater’s live seafood explainer series, Adam Gerringer-Dunn of <a href="http://www.greenpointfish.com/">Greenpoint Fish & Lobster Co</a>. explains how to <strong>prep these tasty bivalves in 10 minutes flat</strong>. </p>
<p id="mJYwZU">Almost the entire creature is edible, which makes preparation a cinch. The one trick: Unlike littlenecks, razor clams have a brittle shell. That means it can crack easily during the opening process. It also makes these clams tricky to harvest — they can’t be raked up, so each one is caught by hand. To avoid cracking the shells during the cleaning process, use a knife to scape the muscle away from one side of the shell, and then gently pull the shell apart by hand. From there, just scrape away the black stomach, and the rest of the muscle is delicious.</p>
<p id="dEWo3H">Geringer-Dunn put together a quick dish by topping the halved clams with a sauce of olive oil, lemon, garlic, and parsley, and searing them briefly in a hot pan to add a little color. They can also make a tasty crudo when sliced up raw and paired with citrus flavors. </p>
<p id="Iqo76n">To see this process in action, check out the video above. For more lessons in seafood, head to <a href="https://www.facebook.com/eater/">Eater’s Facebook page</a> Thursdays at 11 a.m. to catch new episodes of <em>Fresh Catch</em>. Each week Geringer-Dunn will walk live viewers through preparation of a sustainable fish, mollusk, crustacean, or bivalve.</p>
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https://www.eater.com/2017/2/17/14643440/how-to-cook-razor-clamsMadeline Muzzi2017-02-10T14:02:01-05:002017-02-10T14:02:01-05:00Deconstructing the John Dory, From Whole Fish to Tasty Fillet
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<p>Good fish has no trouble speaking for itself</p> <p id="AAMTBN">In this episode of <em>Fresh Catch</em>, Eater’s weekly live lesson in all things seafood, Adam Geringer-Dunn from <a href="http://www.greenpointfish.com/long-island-city/">Greenpoint Fish and Lobster Co.</a> explains why you shouldn’t ignore the John Dory. </p>
<p id="1VpH4w">The anatomy of the John Dory is unique, to say the least. These skinny fish may look flat, but they’re technically classified as a round fish because they swim upright and have eyes on both sides of their heads. Their mouth appears small at first, but opens wide into a tube, enabling them to inhale whatever whole fish are in front of them. In the process of cleaning the fish above, Geringer-Dunn <strong>discovered two whole butter fish and a small squid in its belly</strong>.</p>
<p id="i1Z9ua">The John Dory is fairly mild, so it’s delicious with the caramelized flavors that come from searing. Geringer-Dunn prepared a fast fillet with a hot cast iron pan, butter, olive oil, lemon, and thyme. Good fish has no trouble speaking for itself. </p>
<p id="iohr4u">To see this process in action, check out the video above. For more lessons in seafood, head to <a href="https://www.facebook.com/eater/">Eater’s Facebook page</a> Thursdays at 11 a.m. to catch new episodes of <em>Fresh Catch</em>. Each week, Geringer-Dunn will walk live viewers through preparation of a sustainable fish, mollusk, crustacean, or bivalve.</p>
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https://www.eater.com/2017/2/10/14567536/john-dory-how-to-cookMadeline Muzzi2017-02-03T14:16:02-05:002017-02-03T14:16:02-05:00Watch: How to Use a Whole Alaska Side Stripe Shrimp
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<p>The entire shrimp is edible, making preparation simple</p> <p id="Nzeucc">Alaska side stripe shrimp are so sweet and delicate that<strong> it’s a crime to hide their natural flavor</strong>. In this episode of <em>Fresh Catch</em>, Eater’s weekly live lesson in all things seafood, Adam Geringer-Dunn from Greenpoint Fish and Lobster Co. demonstrates how to use the whole animal while respecting its subtle flavor. </p>
<p id="b1uVqS">The entire shrimp is edible, which makes preparation very easy. To get started, Geringer-Dunn separates the tail meat from the head meat by firmly pulling the tail, removing the shell. All of the shrimp in the video below have dark green eggs attached to the underside of the shell. That’s because side-striped shrimp are hermaphroditic: They spend the first two years of their life as male, and then morph to female to produce young. This roe shouldn’t be discarded. It has a mild flavor, and provides a great textural experience, like slightly savory Pop Rocks. </p>
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<p id="ECd2pJ">Next, Geringer-Dunn removes the vein that runs along the thick, top side of the shrimp. This “vein” is actually the digestive tract. It doesn’t have much flavor, but it can leave an unwanted gritty texture: To remove, just split the back of the shrimp with a knife and scrape it away. </p>
<p id="gc32N1">For a raw side stripe preparation, stuff the raw tail meat with the reserved roe, and add just a touch of yuzu-infused mayonnaise. The mayo adds a citric brightness, and complements the sweet shrimp without overwhelming it. The tail shells should be reserved for making stock or bisque, but the heads <strong>need to be enjoyed whole</strong>. By simply tossing them lightly in potato flour and frying in peanut oil for about a minute, Geringer-Dunn transforms the whole shrimp heads into a delightfully crunchy snack. </p>
<p id="k7Fc59">To see this process in action, check out the video above. For more lessons in seafood, head to <a href="https://www.facebook.com/eater/">Eater’s Facebook page</a> Thursdays at 11 a.m. to catch new episodes of <em>Fresh Catch</em>. Each week, Geringer-Dunn will walk live viewers through preparation of a sustainable fish, mollusk, crustacean, or bivalve.</p>
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https://www.eater.com/2017/2/3/14497326/alaskan-side-striped-shrimpMadeline Muzzi2017-01-27T13:07:01-05:002017-01-27T13:07:01-05:00Making a Meal of the Monstrous-Looking Monkfish
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<img alt="a whole monkfish" src="https://cdn.vox-cdn.com/thumbor/Sbh4w7gPPX6CfB9icLH5pATGbD4=/126x0:1846x1290/1310x983/cdn.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_image/image/52953101/Screen_Shot_2017_02_16_at_7.07.23_PM.1485540123.png" />
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<p>It looks scary, but it tastes delicious</p> <p id="kioaKR">Monkfish might be<strong> the closest thing to a sea monster </strong>that’s served in fancy restaurants. In stores, monkfish are available in approachable fillets, but for this episode of <em>Fresh Catch,</em> Adam Geringer-Dunn of <a href="http://www.greenpointfish.com/">Greenpoint Fish & Lobster Co.</a> brought in a whole one from the market and showed us how to handle it. </p>
<p id="soJ5kp">Monkfish have huge heads, the better for (their own) eating. Monkfish attract prey with a small fishing rod above their mouth. When the rod lures smaller fish in close, the monkfish opens up its terrifying mouth and chomps down. The fish have two rows of very sharp teeth, and they’ll eat anything, including smaller monkfish. Because the head is mostly inedible (and a little intimidating), it’s usually removed before the fish makes it to market. However, if you know where to look, there’s some good meat to be found on the cheeks. </p>
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<figcaption>An open monkfish mouth, revealing two rows of teeth</figcaption>
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<p id="ME56Tq">To harvest the cheek meat, start by cutting away the monkfish skin, which is thick and inedible. The cheeks are located under the eyes; they’ll feel like large soft patches on an otherwise bony monkfish face. Geringer-Dunn freed the cheeks by cutting around the soft patches with a sharp knife.</p>
<p id="eGrK0J">The rest of the useable meat is in the monkfish tail. Separate the monkfish head with a heavy knife, and remove the skin. There will will be two thick fillets on either side of a spine. After the fillets are cut away from the spine, they’re all meat. </p>
<p id="g3xHcm">Cooked monkfish doesn’t flake like most fish: They’re juicy, with a nice bite and a texture similar to that of a cooked lobster. Flavor-wise, the fish is very mild, so it’s receptive to many different preparations. It’s particularly delicious with bright, acidic sauces. For a quick preparation, Geringer-Dunn seared up the monkfish cheeks and some pieces of the fillet in a hot pan with butter and oil, and finished them with a simple sauce of lemon, capers, and butter. </p>
<p id="CkRjpN">To see this process in action, check out the video above. For more lessons in seafood, head to <a href="https://www.facebook.com/eater/">Eater’s Facebook page</a> Thursdays at 11 a.m. to catch new episodes of <em>Fresh Catch</em>. Each week Geringer-Dunn will walk live viewers through preparation of a sustainable fish, mollusk, crustacean, or bivalve.</p>
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https://www.eater.com/2017/1/27/14404802/how-to-cook-monkfishMadeline Muzzi2017-01-20T10:41:47-05:002017-01-20T10:41:47-05:00Watch: Sea Robins Prove Ugly Fish Can Be Delicious
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<figcaption>Three whole Sea Robins</figcaption>
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<p>They’re more than meets the eye</p> <p id="ny0AbO">Sea robins aren’t just bait thieves. In the latest episode of <a href="http://www.eater.com/greenpoint-sustainable-fish-videos">Fresh Catch</a>, Adam Geringer-Dunn from <a href="http://www.greenpointfish.com/">Greenpoint Fish & Lobster Co.</a> proves that although they aren’t exactly Instagram-friendly,<strong> sea robins are delicious</strong>. </p>
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<a href="https://www.facebook.com/eater/videos/1703009876391991/">Making Sea Robin Ceviche at Greenpoint Fish & Lobster Co.</a><p>Have you ever seen a sea robin?</p>Posted by <a href="https://www.facebook.com/eater/">Eater</a> on Thursday, January 19, 2017</blockquote></div>
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<p id="GweYBh">These aesthetically terrifying creatures got a bad rap because they’re often caught by fishermen who are seeking fluke. They live in the same areas as fluke, and mostly eat the same diet of small fish and crabs. Because of this, they have similarly delicate flavors, but with a meaty texture and thicker skin. They get their name from their big, wing-like fins. </p>
<p id="1FvdZm">Historically, they’ve often been discarded in the U.S. Their large, bony skulls led would-be cooks to believe that the fish didn’t have much meat on them. In fact, their tails carry two thick, meaty fillets. In France, sea robins have been starring in bouillabaisse for ages. </p>
<p id="VtyjbZ">But Geringer-Dunn thinks that sea robins <strong>deserve a chance on plates in the U.S.</strong>, as well. The preparation isn’t harder than a more familiar fish. To get to the filets, first descale the fish. Geringer-Dunn used a specialty fish descaler, but the same effect can be achieved with a sharp kitchen knife. Next, place a knife below the head, cut in, and slide the knife down the body of the fish to remove the filets in one clean motion. A sharp knife is essential. The skin is on a sea robin is a little thick, so it’s not ideal for raw preparations, but could work with a nice sear. For this preparation, Adam discarded the skin. For ambitious chefs, reserve the roe sac to eat on buttered toast, and keep the skeleton for making stock. </p>
<p id="2aqVWN">To make a quick ceviche, Geringer-Dunn cubed the fresh sea robin filets. The cubes should be small enough that more than one can fit on a spoon. Toss the fish in a bowl, and flavor with whatever you please. Citrus juice is the essential ingredient to make this a ceviche, and Geringer-Dunn’s simple preparation uses lime juice, red onion, blood oranges, a lovely orange-infused olive oil, mint, cilantro, and Maldon salt. Toss the ingredients together lightly. Letting the ceviche sit in the fridge for a few hours will give the fish time to absorb some of the lime juice flavors, but it isn’t strictly mandatory. Dig right in with a spoon or, better yet, a corn chip. </p>
<p id="eZ3IDv">To see this process in action, check out the video above. For more lessons in seafood, head to <a href="https://www.facebook.com/eater/">Eater’s Facebook page</a> Thursdays at 11 a.m. to catch new episodes of Fresh Catch. Each week Geringer-Dunn will walk live viewers <strong>through preparation of a sustainable fish</strong>, mollusk, crustacean, or bivalve.</p>
<p id="QWVS20">• <a href="http://www.eater.com/greenpoint-sustainable-fish-videos">All Fresh Catch episodes</a> [E]</p>
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https://www.eater.com/2017/1/20/14330860/sea-robin-fish-bycatchMadeline Muzzi