Eater: All Posts by Jamie Feldmarhttps://cdn.vox-cdn.com/community_logos/52682/favicon-32x32.png2022-06-10T10:00:00-04:00https://www.eater.com/authors/jamie-feldmar/rss2022-06-10T10:00:00-04:002022-06-10T10:00:00-04:00From Sourdough to Inflation: How the Pandemic Changed the Way We Eat
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<p>Remember the great bean shortage of 2020? The window box scallions you killed? Our pandemic food timeline is here to remind you </p> <p class="p--has-dropcap p-large-text" id="SKvjw7">The last two-plus years have radically altered just about every aspect of how we eat. From the great bean shortage of 2020 to the meteoric rise of feta pasta on TikTok, here’s a look at the biggest trends, news, and oddities to hit home cooking since the start of the pandemic. </p>
<h3 id="ZMfx4P"><strong>March 2020</strong></h3>
<p id="V5jkkD"><a href="https://www.washingtonpost.com/business/2020/03/02/grocery-stores-coronavirus-panic-buying/">Panic</a> at the grocery store! Mile-long lines form outside of Costco, while flour, canned soup, and frozen vegetables disappear from shelves.</p>
<p id="FPNwDU">The grocery delivery app explosion <a href="https://www.supermarketperimeter.com/articles/6463-instacart-report-online-grocery-surge-expected-to-outlast-pandemic">begins in earnest</a>. By the end of 2020, Instacart’s sales will have increased by an astonishing 229 percent. </p>
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<p id="3gfJEi">Recipes making use of <a href="https://www.google.com/url?q=https://www.eater.com/2020/3/30/21196568/pantry-cooking-how-to-best-recipes-easy&sa=D&source=docs&ust=1654101215672682&usg=AOvVaw2Y0cXzDA7fnfwOgDz3DmyX">pantry staples</a> such as canned beans and dried pasta see a sudden resurgence in popularity. Related: People who normally eat out for every meal are deluged with advice on how, exactly, to <a href="https://www.eater.com/2020/3/30/21196551/how-to-stock-pantry-grocery-shopping-list-home-cooking">stock their pantries</a>. </p>
<p id="dvJ129">To the surprise of no one, comfort food is in. Sales of Campbell’s soup soar by 59 percent this month, and Goldfish crackers are up 23 percent, too.</p>
<p id="NM2SaZ">The waitlist to join the exclusive Rancho Gordo Bean Club is <a href="https://www.anthropology-news.org/articles/people-of-the-bean/">estimated</a> at 10 months.</p>
<p id="g1ZdOj"><a href="https://www.refinery29.com/en-us/2020/03/9596438/sourdough-bread-with-starter-baking-trend">Sourdough</a> is declared the greatest thing since sliced bread. </p>
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<p id="V2BXZN">Photogenic <a href="https://www.nytimes.com/article/whipped-coffee-recipe.html">Dalgona coffee </a>— instant coffee whipped with sugar and water, poured over milk — is ready for its closeup on TikTok. </p>
<h3 id="qytjmp"><strong>April 2020</strong></h3>
<p id="ieelRv"><a href="https://www.nytimes.com/2020/04/08/business/economy/coronavirus-food-banks.html">Food banks</a> are overwhelmed by millions seeking assistance; the National Guard is called in to some states to ensure order at distribution centers. </p>
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<p id="sijM6o">People discover they can’t eat all of the bananas they’ve hoarded, begin making <a href="https://www.wellandgood.com/banana-bread-popularity/">banana bread</a> en masse. </p>
<p id="vfEBpC">Supply chain woes force the realization for most Americans that <a href="https://civileats.com/2020/04/15/food-distribution-101-what-happens-when-the-food-supply-is-disrupted-by-a-pandemic/">there is a supply chain</a>. </p>
<p id="fkCDKU">Perhaps scarred by grocery shortages, millions attempt to <a href="https://www.reuters.com/article/us-health-coronavirus-gardens/home-gardening-blooms-around-the-world-during-coronavirus-lockdowns-idUSKBN2220D3">grow their own food</a> in backyard gardens. </p>
<p id="hGZUky"> -See also: window box scallions. </p>
<p id="54X4tx"> -Related: The first <a href="https://www.nytimes.com/2020/04/24/dining/focaccia-bread.html">focaccia gardens</a> are planted. </p>
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<p id="2niVcg">Marquee restaurant chains such as California Pizza Kitchen, Shake Shack, and Abuelo’s launch home-cook friendly meal kits</p>
<p id="kxvou0"><a href="https://www.today.com/food/what-pancake-cereal-viral-breakfast-idea-popping-everywhere-t180475">Pancake Cereal</a> — tiny pancakes served in a bowl — hits the TikTok airwaves. </p>
<p id="aw8SVq">One-bowl, pantry-friendly <a href="https://www.today.com/food/depression-cake-or-wacky-cake-making-comeback-t179436">Depression Cake</a>, or, as it’s euphemistically renamed, “Wacky Cake,” takes its turn in the social media spotlight. </p>
<h3 id="KaKoqZ"><strong>May 2020</strong></h3>
<p id="dj2NrO"><a href="https://www.eater.com/2020/6/17/21291849/community-fridges-food-insecurity-coronavirus-covid-19-impact">Community refrigerators</a> stocked with free groceries to combat food insecurity begin popping up across the country. </p>
<p id="sYWDre">Self-proclaimed pandemic prom queen/pantry staple maven Alison Roman <a href="https://www.eater.com/2020/5/11/21254554/chrissy-teigen-alison-roman-twitter-fallout-explained">gets canceled</a> after making critical comments about Chrissy Teigen and Marie Kondo in an interview. </p>
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<h3 id="uSygsG"><strong>July 2020</strong></h3>
<p id="iincL3">Meal delivery kits such as Blue Apron see subscription numbers <a href="https://fortune.com/2020/07/23/coronavirus-subscription-boxes-blue-apron-hellofresh-dollar-shave-club-retail-trends/">skyrocket</a>. HelloFresh faces such high demand that it’s forced to close subscriptions for a month while it hires 3,000 extra workers. </p>
<h3 id="BWvJEf"><strong>August 2020</strong></h3>
<p id="aQLF0G">Yet another TikTok trend takes flight: fluffy, meringue-like <a href="https://www.eater.com/2020/8/11/21362486/what-is-cloud-bread-new-dalgona-coffee-tiktok-viral-food-trend">Cloud Bread</a>. </p>
<h3 id="2hJek5"><strong>October 2020</strong></h3>
<p id="kLO6jb">Fermenting at home gets so popular that we fully <a href="https://www.delish.com/food-news/a34345878/mason-jar-shortage-2020/">run out</a> of Mason jars.</p>
<p id="TvqoxX">Everyone’s window box scallions start dying. </p>
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<h3 id="cpptiU"><strong>November 2020</strong></h3>
<p id="fmQlpq">Chefs such as Naomi Pomeroy and Joanne Chang devise plans for digital cooking classes with at-home ingredient kits in an attempt to make up for lost restaurant revenue.</p>
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<p id="yKpoZD">Air Fryers, already increasingly popular, experience a two million-plus strong <a href="https://www.grubstreet.com/2020/12/why-america-is-still-obsessed-with-air-fryers.html">sales spike</a>; author Susan Orlean tweets to her millions of followers that she, too, has jumped on the bandwagon. </p>
<h3 id="95fJy9"><strong>December 2020</strong></h3>
<p id="YKluqE">New York Magazine launches an <a href="https://www.grubstreet.com/2020/12/2020-bucatini-shortage-investigation.html">investigation</a> into the great bucatini<strong> </strong>shortage of 2020. </p>
<h3 id="PM2LaP"><strong>January 2021</strong></h3>
<p id="CAOySt">TikTokers invent new and bizarre ways to wrap burritos, the <a href="https://www.instagram.com/reel/CJYzNXCgtHn/?utm_source=ig_embed&ig_rid=a2cb0610-3797-4ec9-8f21-f26e543ef640">#tortillawraphack</a> is born. </p>
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<h3 id="8emrvV"><strong>February 2021</strong></h3>
<p id="MZK5oq">Grocery store and Instacart workers <a href="https://www.eater.com/22291053/delivery-apps-workers-face-scams-pay-loss-penalties">speak out</a> against workplace abuse and rage-inducing customer behavior. A series of worker strikes are planned. </p>
<p id="3xMWv1">Feta + tomatoes + pasta = <a href="https://www.vogue.com/article/what-makes-a-food-go-viral-inside-the-explosive-popularity-of-tiktoks-feta-pasta">viral hit</a>. </p>
<h3 id="27Gwqf"><strong>June 2021</strong></h3>
<p id="xAZRJ8">The youth are getting drunk on <a href="https://www.nytimes.com/2021/06/17/style/espresso-martini-comeback.html">espresso martinis</a> because it’s the ‘90s again.</p>
<h3 id="wcTkN8"><strong>October 2021</strong></h3>
<p id="6iMGgt"><a href="https://mashable.com/article/squid-game-dalgona-candy-challenge">Dalgona candy</a>, an offshoot of the aforementioned Dalgona coffee, blows up, helped in part by the Netflix show <em>Squid Game</em>. </p>
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<p id="BRprZG">Kellogg’s workers go on <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/2021_Kellogg%27s_strike">strike</a>, affecting all of the brand’s cereal-producing plants (it ends in December). </p>
<p id="R8YJN1">TikTokker Emily Mariko reheats leftover <a href="https://www.today.com/food/we-tried-emily-mariko-s-salmon-rice-bowl-tiktok-t233310">salmon and rice</a>, 45 million people cheer her along. Lizzo makes a copycat dish. </p>
<h3 id="Z5geAr"><strong>November 2021</strong></h3>
<p id="XfMgt4">The great American baked good craze continues, with a <a href="https://www.npd.com/news/press-releases/2021/the-great-us-baking-craze-continues-with-42-increase-in-baking-cookbook-sales-npd-says/">42 percent</a> increase in baking-related cookbook sales. </p>
<h3 id="cNaJ4E"><strong>January 2022</strong></h3>
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<p id="dKP5jc">Grocery store shelves continue to sit empty between supply chain snafus, the Omicron surge, and brutal winter storms. </p>
<h3 id="SRDSWH"><strong>February 2022</strong></h3>
<p id="CWwzXl">Supply chain woes continue to wreak havoc on the lucrative avocado toast industry as the US temporarily <a href="https://www.usnews.com/news/business/articles/2022-02-13/us-suspends-mexican-avocado-imports-on-eve-of-super-bowl">shuts down</a> imports of avocados<strong> </strong>from Mexico. </p>
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<h3 id="lWLoMg"><strong>April 2022</strong></h3>
<p id="0yZnlQ">Inflation woes: According to the US Department of Agriculture’s (USDA) <a href="https://www.ers.usda.gov/data-products/food-price-outlook/summary-findings/">report</a> on 2022 food prices, “all food prices are now predicted to increase between 6.5 and 7.5 percent.” Russia’s war in Ukraine and the Federal Reserve’s increase in interest rates are cited as causes.</p>
<h3 id="9GcvME"><strong>May 2022</strong></h3>
<p id="tddGiM">More than two years after it started, the pandemic is still causing supply chain issues that are wreaking havoc in grocery stores. The most dire shortage is in baby formula; across the country, <a href="https://www.theatlantic.com/ideas/archive/2022/05/baby-formula-shortage-abbott-recall/629828/">40 percent</a> of formula is out of stock.</p>
<h3 id="E3SH2t"><strong>June 2022</strong></h3>
<p id="VaoOU7">The USDA <a href="https://www.usda.gov/media/press-releases/2022/06/01/usda-announces-framework-shoring-food-supply-chain-and-transforming">announces</a> details of a “framework to transform the food system”; one that builds on lessons imparted by the pandemic and food supply chain disruptions caused by the ongoing conflict in Ukraine. Building a more resilient supply chain, creating a fairer food system, broadening access to nutritious food, and “emphasizing equity” for rural and underserved communities are among the plan’s stated goals.</p>
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<p id="d05N6L"><a href="http://jamiefeldmar.com/"><small><em>Jamie Feldmar</em></small></a><small><em> is a Los Angeles-based writer, editor, and cookbook author.</em></small><br><a href="https://www.instagram.com/artish.reader/?hl=en"><small><em>Bri</em></small></a><small><em> is an Oakland-based writer and illustrator.</em></small></p>
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https://www.eater.com/23065152/covid-pandemic-food-trends-newsJamie Feldmar2021-11-15T13:00:00-05:002021-11-15T13:00:00-05:00Martha Stewart’s Mac and Cheese Is the Greatest Thanksgiving Side Dish Ever Made
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<p>It’s called “Perfect Macaroni and Cheese,” because, well, it is</p> <p id="9TqSzO"><small><em>Editor’s note: Thanksgiving traces its origins to an uneasy, temporary alliance between 17th-century English settlers and members of the Wampanoag Confederacy. This year, Eater is choosing to acknowledge that history in our coverage of the holiday.</em></small></p>
<p class="p--has-dropcap p-large-text" id="641Xb2">For almost as long as I can remember, I’ve hosted Thanksgiving with my good friend and former roommate Daniela. Our “Orphan’s Thanksgiving” started in our early 20s in New York, when we were too cash-strapped to afford expensive plane tickets back home, and has always been a casual, potluck-style affair designed for fellow holiday stragglers and non-believers. </p>
<p id="3IRXAH">By virtue of the potluck format, the menu is somewhat chaotic — we send out a spreadsheet for attendees to sign up for dishes, including turkey, which I refuse to cook because turkey, no matter how intently you spatchcock it or brine it or slow-roast it or deep-fry it, sucks. (I make ham instead.) The only rule is that you must bring something — booze, takeout containers for leftovers, a side dish — in order to participate the feast. </p>
<p id="cZfNoc">Several years ago, Daniela began dating a man named John. John has many admirable qualities, but cooking is not among them. (This is a man who once identified a mango as “I don’t know, maybe a big nectarine?”) Culinary shortcomings notwithstanding, John managed to snag a coveted Orphan’s Thanksgiving invitation early in his romance, and knew the pressure was on. Thanksgiving is a big deal to Daniela (and me), and he felt an obligation to show up strong. </p>
<p id="OX7mwj">This is where John made probably the smartest decision in his relationship: He turned to Martha. Stewart, that is, the undisputed champion of holiday entertaining. Martha’s self-described “<a href="https://go.redirectingat.com?id=66960X1516589&xs=1&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.marthastewart.com%2F271998%2Fperfect-macaroni-and-cheese&referrer=eater.com&sref=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.eater.com%2F22775036%2Fbest-mac-and-cheese-recipe-martha-stewart-thanksgiving-side-dish" rel="sponsored nofollow noopener" target="_blank">Perfect Macaroni and Cheese</a>” [developed by associate food editor Sarah Neumeier] called to John like a Greek Siren because, in his words, “it says ‘perfect’ in the name,” and also “looked pretty easy.” </p>
<p id="vSjpzu">Both of these assessments would prove largely true. That first year, John entered the kitchen a bumbling caterpillar, and, with proper coaching from Daniela, managed to emerge as a homemade-breadcrumb-making, block-of-cheese-grating, silken-bechamel-whisking butterfly. (To see John’s culinary metamorphosis unfold in real time, I highly recommend spending a few minutes watching Daniela’s expertly-produced <a href="https://www.instagram.com/stories/highlights/18003162649003479/?hl=en">“Hot Seat”</a> Instagram Stories, which I can confirm are absolutely <em>not </em>a bit.)</p>
<p id="roGVYm">Right out of the gate, John/Martha’s mac was a huge hit. How could it fail? With a rich, velvety cheese sauce, a gentle whisper of fresh nutmeg and black pepper, and a buttery top layer of golden breadcrumbs, this is, in fact, the perfect mac and cheese. And because Martha is Martha, the recipe is truly foolproof. Take it from John, a certified fool in the kitchen, and me, a person who writes cookbooks for a living. </p>
<p id="gB0dpt">Martha, stern-yet-benevolent ruler of Thanksgiving, includes plenty of helpful tricks. Her cheese selection — sharp white Cheddar, Gruyere, and pecorino Romano — is carefully considered to counterbalance the milky white sauce and pasta (yellow and extra-sharp Cheddar, she claims, can also get grainy when melted). She patiently describes how, during the bechamel-making step, the starch from the cooked flour expands in the milk, creating a thick, creamy sauce that stays smooth when you whisk in the cheese. And she insists that you undercook your pasta (“a good Italian brand”) and rinse it in cold water to wash off excess starch. “You might think that starch would be useful in further thickening the casserole, but it isn’t,” she admonishes, explaining that “as it bakes, that extra starch merely expands and lends a mealy texture to your sauce.”</p>
<p class="c-end-para" id="EoXlNx">All of these tips, along with clear instructions and a relatively straightforward ingredient list, mean that anyone can master this recipe. In the decade or so since John’s first Thanksgiving, his mac and cheese has become our most-requested side dish. He also managed to marry Daniela and start a family with her in California, where we continue our Orphan’s potluck tradition to this day. He might still struggle with the technique (“the hardest part is mixing the flour, no wait, the milk, no, I mean the flour, into the butter”), but Martha’s mac has earned a permanent place at our table. </p>
<p id="0HkTOO"><small><em>Jamie Feldmar is a Los Angeles-based writer, editor, and cookbook author.</em></small><br><a href="https://www.cinderblkk.com/"><small><em>Cindy Echevarria</em></small></a><small><em> is a freelance illustrator based in Miami. She’s inspired by bright color palettes, badass women, and the tropics.</em></small></p>
<aside id="ARt8u4"><div data-anthem-component="newsletter" data-anthem-component-data='{"slug":"eater"}'></div></aside><p id="dVShZq"> </p>
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https://www.eater.com/22775036/best-mac-and-cheese-recipe-martha-stewart-thanksgiving-side-dishJamie Feldmar2021-07-22T13:53:11-04:002021-07-22T13:53:11-04:00Everything You Always Wanted to Know About Vanilla
<figure>
<img alt="An illustration of a pair of hands holding a knife over a sliced-open vanilla bean full of diamonds and jewels." src="https://cdn.vox-cdn.com/thumbor/tPnJ3aywMZDEx0K8YPzgXaKbiZY=/112x0:1889x1333/1310x983/cdn.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_image/image/69618361/Vanilla_final.0.jpg" />
<figcaption>Sophia Pappas</figcaption>
</figure>
<p>The world of vanilla products is as rich as it is potentially confusing. Here’s how to navigate it.</p> <p id="iaO8Io">Vanilla, as a concept, suffers a bad rep: The word alone implies something safe at best, and boring at worst. Basic, basically. But vanilla as an ingredient is a wondrous thing, ambrosial, floral, warm, and sophisticated. In truth, the essence of vanilla is anything but plain. </p>
<p id="DIABA5">“It’s an essential ingredient, adding not just flavor, but also body and soul into a dish,” says Francis Ang, a San Francisco-based pastry chef and owner of the pop-up Pinoy Heritage. Vanilla is, of course, integral to countless pastries and desserts, adding a sense of familiarity to everything from ice cream to sugar cookies. And it’s a luxury good in its own right, the result of a wildly time- and labor-intensive harvest that must be done almost entirely by hand. </p>
<p id="ZivzCq">But for such a frequently used ingredient, vanilla and its subsets can be confusing to understand. With vanilla bean pods, extracts, pastes, sugars, and salts out there, how do you know which version to shop for? Why are some vanillas so much more expensive than others? And how do you make sure you’re not wasting any of the precious stuff if you <em>do </em>invest in a pricier option? </p>
<p id="p4y0Ga">With those questions in mind, we spoke to a panel of experts (including pastry chefs and the author of a vanilla-centric cookbook) to help demystify the wide, wonderful world of vanilla. </p>
<p id="37sJDH"><strong>Where does vanilla come from? </strong></p>
<p id="bwJfgE">In a truly neat trick of nature, vanilla pods (the long, thin, stick-like thing you sometimes see sold individually in a tube) are the fruit of a stunning flower known as the vanilla orchid, which is the only orchid to bear edible fruit. </p>
<p id="GFxsq6">The most commonly used vanilla orchid for culinary purposes is <em>vanilla planifolia</em>, native to Mexico, and grown across the Caribbean, northern South America, Central America, and Madagascar. There’s also <em>vanilla pompona, </em>found in the West Indies, Central America, and South America; and <em>vanilla tahitensis</em>, local to French Polynesia and New Guinea, whose backstory is something of a <a href="https://go.redirectingat.com?id=66960X1516589&xs=1&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.newscientist.com%2Farticle%2Fmg20026842-500-on-the-trail-of-tahitis-elusive-vanilla-orchid%2F&referrer=eater.com&sref=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.eater.com%2F2021%2F7%2F22%2F22585676%2Fwhat-is-vanilla-flavoring-how-to-use-cooking-recipes" rel="sponsored nofollow noopener" target="_blank">botanical mystery</a>. </p>
<p id="EwOjrw"><strong>Do different vanillas have different flavors? </strong></p>
<p id="CWDKS3">Madagascar accounts for <a href="https://www.npr.org/sections/goatsandsoda/2019/09/15/757899271/photos-vanilla-boom-is-making-people-crazy-rich-and-jittery-in-madagascar">roughly 80 percent</a> of the world’s supply today, so that’s probably the “traditional” flavor you’re most used to, says Shauna Sever, author of the <a href="https://www.amazon.com/Pure-Vanilla-Irresistible-Essential-Techniques/dp/159474596X?tag=eater0c-20" rel="sponsored nofollow noopener" target="_blank">cookbook</a> <em>Pure Vanilla: Irresistible Recipes and Essential Techniques.</em> Mexican vanilla is a little bolder and slightly smoky, while Tahitian vanilla is more delicate and floral. Some purveyors, like <a href="https://go.redirectingat.com?id=66960X1516589&xs=1&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.burlapandbarrel.com%2Fcollections%2Fall%2Fproducts%2Fnyanza-vanilla&referrer=eater.com&sref=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.eater.com%2F2021%2F7%2F22%2F22585676%2Fwhat-is-vanilla-flavoring-how-to-use-cooking-recipes" rel="sponsored nofollow noopener" target="_blank">Burlap & Barrel</a>, sell pods from other places, such as Tanzania and the Peruvian Amazon. </p>
<p id="tnu4I3"><strong>Why are vanilla beans so expensive?</strong></p>
<p id="AwaWD3">In short, because vanilla harvesting is a time- and labor-intensive endeavor that defies automation. “It’s an incredibly long process that can’t be rushed,” Sever says. </p>
<p id="3OLyF3">To start with, the vanilla orchids only open one day a year, and they must be hand-pollinated because this particular flower has only one natural pollinator — the Melipona bee, which is native to Central America. It takes the pods another eight to nine months to mature, and then they must be hand-picked while green. They still don’t resemble the fragrant, shiny brown-black stems you see in stores. First, the pods must be cured, then wrapped in little blankets and dried, a three-to-six-month process during which they ferment and shrink down by 400 percent. </p>
<p id="Xw3hKx">On top of all that, global vanilla prices have <a href="https://www.eater.com/2017/10/19/16468074/vanilla-prices-rising">soared</a> in recent years, due in part to increased demand, decreased supply, and a series of natural disasters in growing regions like Madagascar. As the price of vanilla has increased, it has made vanilla in Madagascar the target of thieves, who have <a href="https://www.nytimes.com/interactive/2018/08/30/world/africa/madagascar-vanilla.html">attacked and killed</a> farmers for their valuable vanilla crops. On top of that, there’s the COVID-19 pandemic; while it remains to be seen how it will affect the price of vanilla, it probably won’t help matters.</p>
<div class="c-float-left"> <figure class="e-image">
<img alt="An illustration of an ice cream cone studded with diamonds." data-mask-text="false" src="https://cdn.vox-cdn.com/thumbor/t1HVgWqF5I9VcyE_h18UrFDqbjE=/800x0/filters:no_upscale()/cdn.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_asset/file/22729010/Vanilla_spot_final.jpg">
<cite>Sophia Pappas</cite>
</figure>
</div>
<p id="1jQ4va"><strong>Okay, so let’s say I </strong><em><strong>do </strong></em><strong>shell out for a vanilla bean pod. How do I know if I’m getting a good one?</strong></p>
<p id="FiGRtT">Brands such as <a href="https://nielsenmassey.com/">Nielsen-Massey</a>, <a href="https://www.heilalavanilla.com/">Heilala</a>, <a href="https://go.redirectingat.com?id=66960X1516589&xs=1&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.beanilla.com%2F&referrer=eater.com&sref=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.eater.com%2F2021%2F7%2F22%2F22585676%2Fwhat-is-vanilla-flavoring-how-to-use-cooking-recipes" rel="sponsored nofollow noopener" target="_blank">Beanilla</a>, <a href="https://vanillaqueen.com/">the Vanilla Queen</a>, and <a href="https://go.redirectingat.com?id=66960X1516589&xs=1&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.burlapandbarrel.com%2Fcollections%2Fall%2Fproducts%2Fnyanza-vanilla&referrer=eater.com&sref=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.eater.com%2F2021%2F7%2F22%2F22585676%2Fwhat-is-vanilla-flavoring-how-to-use-cooking-recipes" rel="sponsored nofollow noopener" target="_blank">Burlap & Barrel</a> are generally reliable. “You can tell if a vanilla bean is really good based on how thick and plump it is — it should almost look a little moist,” says Miller Union pastry chef and Eater Young Gun Claudia Martinez. “I don’t recommend buying pods from big-box grocery stores, because they’re usually dry, thin, and frail — those aren’t worth your money. If it’s all shriveled up, it shows there aren’t a lot of beans inside.” </p>
<p id="QyD4uk">To store vanilla beans, wrap them tightly in plastic wrap and store in an airtight container (such as a jar) in a cool, dark place for up to six months. </p>
<p id="jJQwUg"><strong>The recipe I’m using says to scrape the vanilla seeds out of the pod. What’s the best way to do that?</strong></p>
<p id="iFFkNO">There is no one right way — the most common is just to split the pod in half lengthwise with a sharp knife and use the tip of said knife to scrape the tiny beans out — but Martinez has a trick she prefers. “I like to cut the pod in half with clean scissors, then use a little spoon or an offset spatula to scrape the beans,” she says. “I think it’s cleaner, and you have less risk of breaking the pod with a sharp knife.” She also recommends rubbing the pods briskly between your hands for a few seconds to warm them up and loosen the seeds before cutting, which helps relax the pod and makes it easier to scrape out. </p>
<p id="W7uEp9"><strong>What can I do with leftover bean pods after I’ve scraped the seeds?</strong></p>
<p id="jtl2g6">Plenty! “I like to fill a mason jar with vodka or brandy, then steep the beans in them for a few weeks (or even months), to make my own extract,” says Ang. “Sometimes I even soak the whole pod (not just the leftover shells), so that the seeds inside soften and swell up, and you can remove them just by running your finger along the pod and squeezing the beans out.” You can also add the spent pods to a jar filled with sugar to get vanilla-flavored sugar, and do the same with a flaky finishing salt such as Maldon. </p>
<p id="I2HRYV"><strong>What’s the difference between a vanilla bean pod and vanilla extract? Are they interchangeable in a recipe?</strong></p>
<p id="hOEugM">Vanilla extract is by far the most common form of vanilla available today. As its name implies, it’s made by macerating chopped vanilla bean pods in alcohol, which extracts the flavors and fragrances from the bean. Look for pure vanilla extract (more on imitation extract below), which must contain 13.35 ounces of vanilla beans per gallon during extraction and 35 percent alcohol. Beans and extract are interchangeable in most recipes — one whole vanilla bean is equivalent to one tablespoon of extract (see this <a href="https://go.redirectingat.com?id=66960X1516589&xs=1&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.beanilla.com%2Fblog%2Fhow-to-use-vanilla-beans&referrer=eater.com&sref=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.eater.com%2F2021%2F7%2F22%2F22585676%2Fwhat-is-vanilla-flavoring-how-to-use-cooking-recipes" rel="sponsored nofollow noopener" target="_blank">helpful chart</a> for more conversions). </p>
<p id="rhcsLH">In terms of brands, most of the same companies that peddle high-quality vanilla bean pods sell high-quality vanilla extract. “As long as it has the word ‘pure’ on it and the label just says vanilla beans and alcohol, you’re in business,” says Sever. In addition to the bean brands listed above, she’s a fan of Costco’s Kirkland vanilla for everyday use, calling it good quality for the price. Vanilla extract keeps at room temperature more or less indefinitely. </p>
<p id="Uan3rP"><strong>How about imitation vanilla extract?</strong></p>
<p id="BPbY5w">Although many of us grew up with a little bottle of McCormick’s imitation vanilla extract, all of the sources interviewed for this piece beg you not to use it. The reason? It doesn’t have any real vanilla in it. Imitation extract is made primarily of an artificial flavoring called vanillin, which is essentially wood pulp with the flavor of vanilla extracted from it. It has a weaker flavor and aroma than the real stuff, and can leave a bitter aftertaste. If it’s all you have, they suggest limiting its use to baked goods that aren’t particularly vanilla-forward in flavor or appearance, like brownies or a loaf cake with lots of other warm spices. </p>
<p id="c4Z0zZ"><strong>What about vanilla bean paste? What’s that?</strong></p>
<p id="7VEHO7">A somewhat specialty item that’s become more available in recent years, vanilla bean paste is a thick, brown, syrupy goo made by blending concentrated vanilla extract and vanilla powder together. Unlike liquid extract, it’s chock-full of visible vanilla seeds (flecks), and has a more intensely ambrosial aroma and flavor than extract alone. “It’s like getting the best of both worlds — huge flavor from the pod, but the convenience of an extract,” says Sever. And because it’s so potent, a little bit goes a long way (one vanilla bean = 2 to 3 teaspoons vanilla paste, per the conversion <a href="https://go.redirectingat.com?id=66960X1516589&xs=1&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.beanilla.com%2Fblog%2Fhow-to-use-vanilla-beans&referrer=eater.com&sref=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.eater.com%2F2021%2F7%2F22%2F22585676%2Fwhat-is-vanilla-flavoring-how-to-use-cooking-recipes" rel="sponsored nofollow noopener" target="_blank">chart</a>). Nielsen-Massey and the Spice House are two reliable brands; both keep at room temperature for months. </p>
<p id="uwheIf"><strong>When does it make sense to use vanilla bean pods versus paste versus extract?</strong></p>
<ul>
<li id="NW059K">Beans: When vanilla is the star of a dish, or you want to see lots of little flecks in the finished product, it’s worth it to splurge on a whole bean (even if you only use part of it). Vanilla ice cream, blondies, white cakes or cupcakes, and sugar cookies are all places where beans can make a difference, as are desserts heavy on fresh or poached fruit. </li>
<li id="Osr6BF">Paste: Nearly as good as and almost interchangeable with beans (and still delivering plenty of flecks), and can be easier to work with when adding to liquids like cream (for whipping or pastry purposes). Plus, it’s generally more affordable than whole bean pods. </li>
<li id="kgpyIv">Extract: Save this for desserts where vanilla plays second fiddle in terms of flavor and appearance: Think brownies, chocolate chip cookies, spice cakes, coffee cakes, and the like. </li>
</ul>
<p id="4YEWxi"><strong>What to make with vanilla</strong></p>
<p id="dzYI2y">Vanilla shows up in countless desserts and baked goods. In addition to the ones listed above, Ang loves pairing it with coconut milk for a more tropical flavor profile, Martinez adds it to her doughnut dough, and Sever has been known to add it to butter sauces and into spice rubs for seasoning pork. </p>
<p id="9ZOlRR">A final note: “If you’re using vanilla, you should also be using salt, even in a dessert, to help bring the vanilla flavor out from the background and let it shine,” says Ang. “You need to have balance to awaken all your senses.” </p>
<p id="LfImXg"><small><em>Jamie Feldmar is a Los Angeles-based writer, editor, and cookbook author.</em></small><br><a href="http://www.sophiamariepappas.com/"><small><em>Sophia Pappas</em></small></a><small><em> is a Pittsburgh-based illustrator. </em></small></p>
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https://www.eater.com/2021/7/22/22585676/what-is-vanilla-flavoring-how-to-use-cooking-recipesJamie Feldmar2021-06-28T12:30:00-04:002021-06-28T12:30:00-04:00Everything You Ever Wanted to Know About Coconut Milk
<figure>
<img alt="An illustration showing swirls of coconut milk in different forms against a light green background: in a pot of red stew; in a blender full of pink liquid; in a red popsicle; in coffee in a coffee carafe; in a skillet of yellow curry; in a green drink; in a rectangular yellow dish." src="https://cdn.vox-cdn.com/thumbor/yCPILsjOtDWnc6eVktVUa8A6Isw=/112x0:1889x1333/1310x983/cdn.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_image/image/69513998/Final_eater_coconut.0.jpg" />
<figcaption>Sophia Pappas</figcaption>
</figure>
<p>What it is, what it isn’t, and why you should never use the light stuff in your cooking</p> <p id="DYFdTK">I couldn’t tell you when, exactly, the bookmark bar I use to digitally dog-ear recipes I want to cook became overrun with coconut milk. Every week I scan through the list of titles, planning my meals and grocery runs accordingly. And every week, it seems, I find myself picking up a can or two of coconut milk, not just for curries and soups but also in the service of culturally free-flowing dishes like Hetty McKinnon’s <a href="https://www.bonappetit.com/recipe/turmeric-and-coconut-braised-cabbage-with-chickpeas">Turmeric and Coconut-Braised Cabbage With Chickpeas</a>, Kay Chun’s <a href="https://cooking.nytimes.com/recipes/1020045-coconut-miso-salmon-curry">Coconut-Miso Salmon Curry</a>, or Sara Deseran’s <a href="https://www.saveur.com/article/recipes/coconut-horchata/">Coconut Horchata</a>. </p>
<p id="dBDBjc">As it turns out, I’m not the only person buying up countless cans: Sales of coconut milk are <a href="https://www.globenewswire.com/news-release/2019/04/24/1808864/0/en/Coconut-Milk-Market-will-register-a-CAGR-of-7-3-through-2027-Future-Market-Insights.html">skyrocketing</a> in North America, driven in part by what <a href="https://www.fooddive.com/news/coconut-milk-sales-expected-to-enjoy-robust-growth-report-says/553802/">researchers describe</a> as a growing demand for healthy, plant-based beverages, an increase in lactose and dairy allergies, and consumer interest in so-called “exotic” flavors such as those used in Asian cuisine, including coconut. (Never mind the fact that coconut milk is widely used not only in South and Southeast Asia but also across the Caribbean, Latin America, and East and West Africa. But hey, leave it to the forecasters to generalize.) </p>
<p id="Xj6XmT">With coconut milk sales expected to increase, and presumably more coconut-milk-using recipes expected to land in my bookmarks, I found myself wondering about this so-called-exotic ingredient. What is coconut milk, really? Where does it come from? And will someone please help me explain the difference between coconut milk, light coconut milk, coconut cream, and cream of coconut? Armed with a million questions, I set out to learn more.</p>
<p id="W79IIy"><strong>Coconut milk: What is it?</strong></p>
<p id="8nmlpM">First things first: Coconut milk is the liquid extracted from the meat of a mature coconut. Sounds simple enough, but sometimes people confuse the liquid splashing around inside a coconut shell with coconut milk. This is not so: That liquid is coconut water, a delicious coconut byproduct in its own right, but not the same as coconut milk. </p>
<p id="CQ8RLT"><strong>How is coconut milk made?</strong></p>
<p id="KuggrP">The extraction process is straightforward: Crack open a coconut, use a sharp tool to scrape the white meat into shredded bits, add a little hot water to soften it, and squeeze, almost as if you were…milking the coconut. This can be done by hand: The Thai chef and cookbook author Pailin Chongchitnant has a <a href="https://hot-thai-kitchen.com/how-to-make-coconut-milk/">great video</a> showing the old-fashioned extraction technique in Thailand, which involves the use of a special bench with a scraper known as a “rabbit.” Modern industrial methods follow a similar technique, but at scale. </p>
<p id="qNRwee">In parts of the world where coconuts abound, you might be lucky enough to get your hands on ultra-fresh “raw” coconut milk. But most commercial coconut milk is processed before packaging to make it easier to export. That can involve adding stabilizers or sweeteners (more on that in a minute) and, if the milk is being canned, homogenization and heat treatment. Or if it’s going into a carton, it will go through ultra-high-temperature processing. </p>
<p id="tWvFWk"><strong>What kinds of coconuts are we talking about here?</strong></p>
<p id="D7Z2oG">Most of the coconut milk you find in stores is made from mature coconuts (the brown, hairy kind), because the older fruit has more fat and a deeper coconut flavor. Young coconuts— the whitish or pale-green ones you might see with a straw sticking out of the top at a tropical resort — are generally better for providing light, sweet coconut water. </p>
<p id="uLy4L4"><strong>Okay, so what’s in a can of coconut milk?</strong></p>
<p id="aRPrRd">If you open a can of coconut milk without shaking it up first, you may notice a few different kinds of coconut <em>stuff </em>inside. “Within a single can, you can have two or three distinct layers of coconut, which is even more noticeable if the can is cold,” says Cheetie Kumar, chef and owner of <a href="https://garlandraleigh.com/">Garland</a>, an Indian-Asian-Southern restaurant in Raleigh, North Carolina. The top layer in a can of coconut milk is often a semisolid, creamy white mass, while beneath it there’s a thinner, more watery layer. </p>
<p id="8dG4RD">Much like the cream rising to the top of fresh cow’s milk, that thick top layer is coconut cream, the fattiest and most flavorful part of coconut milk. (You can recombine the components by shaking it like you would a vinaigrette.) If you were to cook coconut cream slowly so all the water evaporates, you’d wind up with coconut oil. </p>
<p id="3aI14I">That said, the layers aren’t always so defined. Some brands use more stabilizers and emulsifiers to prevent separation, and most recipes don’t differentiate between using coconut cream and coconut milk. All of which leads us to our next point, about the sometimes confusing language on coconut milk labels.</p>
<p id="ahrzcH"><strong>So if all coconut milk already contains coconut cream, what’s the difference between cans labeled “coconut milk” and those called “coconut cream?” </strong></p>
<p id="FCA8sq">Great question. A can of coconut cream contains <em>only </em>that rich, fatty top layer; it’s sometimes called for in dessert recipes. But the chefs I spoke to all recommend buying coconut milk and not cream, because you get more control and more options — if you need just the cream, you can scoop it off the top, or you can shake it up and have a more general-use coconut milk. </p>
<p id="aCFVws"><strong>What about the stuff called “cream of coconut”? </strong></p>
<p id="RIX6Cv">The best known cream of coconut brand is Coco Lopez. Made in Puerto Rico, it’s a thick, heavily sweetened, highly processed coconut milk product meant for cocktails (i.e., pina coladas). While tasty, cream of coconut is not a substitute for coconut milk or cream! </p>
<div class="c-float-left"> <figure class="e-image">
<img alt="A brown hand holds up a red can of coconut milk against a light green background." data-mask-text="false" src="https://cdn.vox-cdn.com/thumbor/jhWuPJWn5Xlp90Rzjl-SMzFiJ5k=/800x0/filters:no_upscale()/cdn.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_asset/file/22637558/Eater_coconut_2.jpg">
<cite>Sophia Pappas</cite>
</figure>
</div>
<p id="eYBEQF"><strong>Okay, then what’s “light” coconut milk? </strong></p>
<p id="Y96NDs">Light coconut milk is basically the watery part, with all or most of the creamy fat scraped off. It’s not a great choice if you’re trying to impart a rich coconut flavor into a dish. “Never buy light coconut milk for anything — I don’t care if you’re on a diet!” says Chongchitnant. “You might as well add water, because all the flavor in coconut milk is in its fat. So when you remove the fat, you remove the flavor.”</p>
<p id="hn8M5K"><strong>How about all those coconut beverages I see in the refrigerator section?</strong></p>
<p id="ET6Xer">Nope, also not substitutes for coconut milk. Coconut beverages like <a href="https://www.amazon.com/Coconut-Flavored-Cocofusions-Raspberry-Pineapple/dp/B0160Q09SK?tag=eater0c-20" rel="sponsored nofollow noopener" target="_blank">this</a> or <a href="https://go.redirectingat.com?id=66960X1516589&xs=1&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.quill.com%2Fso-delicious-coconut-milk-original-unsweetened-32oz-wwi91235%2Fcbs%2F55360873.html%3Fsfcp%3D1%26gclsrc%3Daw.ds%26%26cm_mmc%3DSEM_PLA_SHOP_CB_418_55360873_N_N_N%26mcode%3DSEM_PLA_CB_418_55360873_N_N%26gclid%3DCj0KCQiA4L2BBhCvARIsAO0SBdYo7UdRWGz_oYGxHHOsz3fCmTUfjrs0O-D4ViiDmeozp7fWFlHi-_waAkYJEALw_wcB&referrer=eater.com&sref=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.eater.com%2F2021%2F6%2F28%2F22351190%2Fwhat-is-coconut-milk-how-to-use-cooking-recipes" rel="sponsored nofollow noopener" target="_blank">this</a> might have a vague trace of coconut milk, but usually all the fat has been removed, which is why they taste like water. </p>
<p id="H1XLWy"><strong>Should I buy sweetened or unsweetened coconut milk?</strong></p>
<p id="Y9ZeFc">Although coconut milk contains a hint of natural sweetness, it’s best bought unsweetened. If you’re making a dessert or drink on the sweet side, you can always add your own sugar — but you can’t take sugar out of a product it’s already mixed into. </p>
<p id="U4yhpp"><strong>Right. So what </strong><em><strong>should </strong></em><strong>I look for when shopping for coconut milk?</strong></p>
<p id="iRoKqO">“As few ingredients as possible,” says Natalia Pereira, chef and owner of the Brazilian restaurant <a href="https://www.woodspoonla.com/restaurant">Woodspoon</a> in Los Angeles. The label should ideally list just coconut and water — no added sugars, no unpronounceable thickeners or stabilizers. (A passable third ingredient is a bit of guar gum, which helps with texture.) </p>
<p id="GLXvo6">Canned brands are more widely available in the U.S., though Chongchitnant prefers the kind sold in cartons, as it’s been processed at a higher temperature for less time, resulting in a better flavor. And while most brands sold here don’t specify the percentage of coconut to water, a quick glance at the fat and calorie count will give you an indication of how rich a given can is: The more calories, the less it’s watered down. </p>
<p id="YQ1DBf">As for brands, Aroy-D and Chaokoh (both from Thailand) make high-quality cans and cartons. Thai Kitchen (which also offers an organic line) and the Whole Foods organic 365 brand are also good. </p>
<p id="gmX284"><strong>How should I store it?</strong></p>
<p id="24g60G">After opening, store any unused coconut milk in a clean, clear container for about five days. Don’t leave it in the can or carton, which makes it harder to tell if something has gone off. It’s natural for separation to occur here; simply shake to re-emulsify.</p>
<p id="zMZtMl">It is possible to freeze coconut milk, but its texture will be grainy when it thaws. This might be fine if you’re cooking a dish like a curry with a lot of other flavors to mask it, but probably won’t work for more delicate desserts or light soups. </p>
<p id="1ZuUjh">Better yet, if you’re left with a small amount of coconut milk kicking around after a recipe, try one of these: Whisk in a bit of sugar or honey, a few sprigs of lavender, and a pinch of salt to freeze into popsicles (per Pereira); add it to smoothies or coffee with a bit of sugar (per Chongchitnant); or stir it into rice, lentils, soups and stews (per Kumar). “Anywhere you might finish something with butter, milk, or cream, try coconut milk,” says Kumar. </p>
<p id="2afQeE"><strong>What to cook with coconut milk</strong></p>
<p id="TvzwPK">Coconut milk is incredibly versatile and can be used in both sweet and savory applications. In largely dairy-free Thai cuisine, explains Chongchitnant, it’s used to add creaminess and fat to countless dishes, from sauces and dressings to curries and stews to puddings and dessert soups. Brazilian native Pereira uses it to add richness to moqueca (a seafood stew), desserts like flan and ice cream, and blended drinks for body and texture. Kumar’s family is from northern India, where cow’s milk is more common than coconut, but she fell in love with its flavor as a professional chef in the American South, where she now uses it to cook everything from pilaf-style rice to slow-braised lamb or beef to sweet caramels. “Coconut milk can tolerate a lot of different spices and complexities of flavor, takes acid so well, and brings up the fruity nuances of everything it’s involved with,” she says. “I can’t really think of an application where I <em>wouldn’t </em>use it.” </p>
<p id="ZKK3Uk">Here are a few more recipe ideas to get you started:</p>
<p id="7qXOgB">Pailin Chongchitnant’s <a href="https://hot-thai-kitchen.com/coconut-longan-rice-pudding/">Coconut Rice Pudding with Longans</a></p>
<p id="V4nZPF">Pailin Chongchitnant’s <a href="https://hot-thai-kitchen.com/panang-curry/">Panang Curry</a> </p>
<p id="L14oOe">Natalia Periera’s <a href="http://juice.clubw.com/recipes/moqueca-6357785896">Moqueca </a></p>
<p id="QZU2iX">Brazilian Kitchen Abroad’s <a href="https://braziliankitchenabroad.com/brazilian-coconut-cocktail/">Batida de Coco</a> </p>
<p id="kBJhr1">Cheetie Kumar’s <a href="https://www.pbsnc.org/blogs/lifestyle/garlandshrimp/">Shrimp & Green Beans with Coconut-Lentil Chili Crisp</a></p>
<p id="VOgEvr">Cheetie Kumar’s <a href="https://www.southernliving.com/recipes/ginger-carrots-pistachios">Gingery Carrots with Pistachios and Coconut-Buttermilk Sauce</a></p>
<p id="1syIiu">Meera Sohda’s <a href="https://cooking.nytimes.com/recipes/1018939-sri-lankan-dal-with-coconut-and-lime-kale?campaign_id=9&emc=edit_nn_20200928&instance_id=22587&nl=the-morning&regi_id=65830126&section_index=4&section_name=play_watch_eat_rock&segment_id=39218&te=1&user_id=e1631c799417b4b6fba8c48c3c6f8110">Sri Lankan Dal With Coconut and Lime Kale</a></p>
<p id="gHEblX">Leslie Enston’s <a href="https://www.bonappetit.com/recipe/sos-pwa-nwa-and-mayi-moulen">Sos Pwa Nwa and Mayi Moulen (Black Bean Sauce and Cornmeal)</a></p>
<p id="a2Kyfe">Anna Watson Carl’s <a href="https://www.saveur.com/coconut-and-pistachio-semifreddo-fresh-peaches-recipe/">Coconut Pistachio Semifreddo</a> </p>
<aside id="qrOhLl"><div data-anthem-component="newsletter" data-anthem-component-data='{"slug":"eater"}'></div></aside><p id="0G1rs7"></p>
https://www.eater.com/2021/6/28/22351190/what-is-coconut-milk-how-to-use-cooking-recipesJamie Feldmar2021-01-07T10:27:20-05:002021-01-07T10:27:20-05:00The Art of Hoshigaki at Home
<figure>
<img alt="Drying persimmons hanging from strings start to form a sugar bloom on their exteriors." src="https://cdn.vox-cdn.com/thumbor/fKGigsht39SDH41fL4uA6tCT7kc=/246x0:4043x2848/1310x983/cdn.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_image/image/68632478/shutterstock_695742862.7.jpg" />
<figcaption><a class="ql-link" href="https://www.shutterstock.com/g/Chisanu+L" target="_blank">PixHound</a>/Shutterstock</figcaption>
</figure>
<p>Some people got into sourdough. I turned to a Japanese method of preserving fruit.</p> <p id="uBmoXM">“What if I need to go out of town?” asked one thumbnail-sized person on my Zoom screen. “Should I bring the persimmons with me?” He sounded concerned. </p>
<p id="ddtVnK">“They’ll be okay on their own for a few days,” replied <a href="https://www.sonokosakai.com/">Sonoko Sakai</a>, a Los Angeles-based food writer and the leader of our hoshigaki-making workshop (for the past eight years, she’s taught classes in person, but this year turned to virtual instruction). “Everything with hoshigaki happens slowly.”</p>
<p id="27SgLY">Hoshigaki (from the Japanese terms hoshi<em>, </em>meaning dried, and kaki<em>, </em>persimmon) are dried persimmons, made with a centuries-old technique that’s both incredibly simple and ridiculously labor-intensive. Each persimmon must be peeled, tied, hung, and gently massaged every day for four to six weeks, until they reach the perfect level of dried-yet-pliant texture and darkly sweet, warm spice-y flavor. Over time, the fruit’s natural sugars crystallize into a powdery white skin across its surface, the prized “sugar bloom” that sets hoshigaki apart from more mundane dried fruit. </p>
<p id="EOlVk5">Persimmons are a beloved seasonal treat in Japan, where conservation methods like pickling and drying are common. “I remember driving through the countryside as a child and seeing rows and rows of deep red hoshigaki drying in the sun each autumn. They were just beautiful against the blue sky, like something out of a postcard,” says Sakai. For more than 50 years, her parents received a package of hoshigaki containing the highly coveted <a href="https://www.kakiyokan.com/shopping/item.php?id=42">gozen shirogaki</a>, or Imperial White persimmons, produced by a single family for more than 250 years and named in honor of Emperor Meiji, reportedly a big fan. “Toward the end of the year, we’re not only celebrating the harvest, but also looking ahead to the new year. Red brings fire, happiness, and good luck, which is why we give persimmons as a New Year’s gift,” Sakai explains. </p>
<p id="dl4hHk">She never expected to find hoshigaki in Southern California until encountering Jeff Rieger, owner of <a href="https://www.penrynorchardspecialties.com/">Penryn Orchards</a>, a small farm in northern California that produced some 400 pounds of hoshigaki in 2020. He started making hoshigaki in 2003, after buying his orchard from a retired Japanese engineer who had planted eight varieties of persimmon trees on the property, part of a long farming tradition in the area. Japanese immigrants flocked to the Sierra foothills east of Sacramento in the 1920s. Many worked as farmers, taking advantage of the area’s uniquely acidic soil to plant fruit trees, and they maintained fruit preservation techniques like hoshigaki. After meeting Sakai at the Santa Monica Farmers Market, Reiger and his partner taught her the technique, which she in turn offers in her own culinary workshops. </p>
<p id="T6ErYR">The investment in time and effort has led some to compare hoshigaki to Kobe beef, which requires ranchers to massage their cattle daily to achieve rich marbling. While the comparison is catchy, in truth, making hoshigaki is a far more accessible process. “Anyone can make it — all you need is access to the fruit, a knife, and some string,” says Rieger. “But it takes an amazing amount of your own personal time, and you cannot cheat the process. So if someone gives you a box, it means they care about you enough to invest a lot of time and effort into your gift.”</p>
<p id="y5xQg9">Over the course of the year from hell, I’d cycled through a variety of ambitious cooking projects and hit something of a culinary low. After making bread, beans, elaborate lasagnas, curries, and casseroles, my appetite was gone, and I survived for weeks on frozen Trader Joe’s stir-fry and takeout. </p>
<figure class="e-image">
<img alt="A man stands behind a thicket hanging skinned persimmons on strings from tree branches." data-mask-text="false" src="https://cdn.vox-cdn.com/thumbor/1F_FmGvwZWvnZrmvnJ1hN0bk9M0=/800x0/filters:no_upscale()/cdn.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_asset/file/22213225/1229412556.jpg">
<cite>Costfoto/Barcroft Media via Getty Images</cite>
</figure>
<p id="7BuMKL">Then, in November, trapped at home and desperate for a task that didn’t revolve around a screen, I saw Sakai offering virtual classes. I’ve been lucky enough to taste hoshigaki in Japan, and as a new resident of Los Angeles, I am still astonished by the abundant persimmons growing freely in people’s backyards. As a fan of simple routines for mental health, the prospect of making hoshigaki was enough to lure me out of my kitchen rut.</p>
<p id="1dtvIk">Though there are dozens of types of persimmons, the two most common are tall, teardrop-shaped hachiyas and squat fuyus that resemble miniature pumpkins. While fuyus can be eaten raw and crunchy, hachiyas are mouth-puckeringly astringent until they’re very ripe. They become soft enough to nearly burst through their skins into a sweet, oozing, jellyish goo. Hoshigaki are made from firm hachiyas with just the slightest touch of softness (and, ideally, a stem long enough to hang the fruit). I clipped fruit from a neighbor’s tree (“We never know what to do with them anyway,” they told me), but hachiyas are also easy to find at Asian grocers, farmers markets, and some Whole Foods and other chains. </p>
<div class="c-float-right"><aside id="MQv82R"><q>“Hoshigaki is like making wine: There are a lot of different styles, different fruits, different vintages.”</q></aside></div>
<p id="jAmSE6">As my classmates and I settled into our Zoom, Sakai walked us through the process. We trimmed around the top of the fruit to create a little shelf for looping the string, peeled the skin off like a potato, and tied a slipknot around each stem. For persimmons without a stem, Sakai recommends inserting a sterilized stainless-steel screw into the top of the fruit and tying the string to that. </p>
<p id="G3uM2J">Sakai instructed us to dip each persimmon in a pot of boiling water for a second or two to sterilize them. Others swear by a quick dunk in brandy or vodka, and still others skip this step entirely. “Hoshigaki is like making wine: There are a lot of different styles, different fruits, different vintages,” says Rieger. “Some makers do one thing. Some do another — there’s no right way.” </p>
<p id="2WFJ4G">But one thing all hoshigaki makers can agree on is that mold is the enemy. It’s important to hang the hoshigaki somewhere dry and warm, where air can circulate. “No damp basements,” says Sakai. In Japan, the fruit is usually hung to dry from bamboo rods outdoors, but hanging them inside works too. “If you can find a dry, sunny window, that’s where they’re happiest,” she says. Improvising a bit, I used a laundry rack in front of a sliding glass door. Friends have simply tied the string to nails or hooks along a windowsill. </p>
<p id="ceRXyc">The persimmons hang, undisturbed, for a week to dry slightly before the massaging begins, though “massage” may be a bit of an overstatement. Sakai recommends starting with a gentle touch once a day, pressing ever-so-slightly before working your way up to a light massage (no squeezing!). Over time, the fruit will start to soften and shrivel, forming an elegantly craggy surface with deep grooves in the folded skin. </p>
<p id="tMtXt4">Timing will vary, not just with every batch, but from persimmon to persimmon, which is why it’s important to pay attention to the slow progress of each fruit. A small sugar crust may start to form after a few weeks, but the true sugar bloom can take months to occur, and it will continue to form even after the fruit is packed. Sakai says to pull the hoshigaki down when they’re firm but still a little pliable and conduct a taste test. The flesh should be chewy and moist, with a musky sweetness and floral aroma. Hoshigaki can be stored in an airtight container for over a year or given to friends who will appreciate the fruits of your labor.</p>
<p id="uK5fj3">Both Sakai and Rieger advise savoring hoshigaki as is, sliced into small pieces, while others suggest enjoying them alongside tea and a nubbin of aged strong cheese. Sakai also makes a traditional New Year’s salad with lightly seasoned daikon radish, carrots, and sliced hoshigaki. </p>
<p id="1TxSLu">Beyond their beauty and flavor, hoshigaki offer another reward: a slow, soothing process that feels like balm for this particular moment. I worked persimmon massages into my morning routine, between coffee and stretching, and found the tactile process a welcome contrast from my otherwise screen-oriented day. “It’s a way to get in touch with your food and with nature, which is so easy to miss out on in modern life,” says Sakai. “You can’t complain about pandemic fatigue when there’s so much you can do at home. Don’t sit in front of the TV. Go massage your persimmons.” </p>
<aside id="AnJnSm"><div data-anthem-component="newsletter" data-anthem-component-data='{"slug":"eater"}'></div></aside>
https://www.eater.com/22203434/how-to-make-hoshigaki-japanese-dried-persimmonsJamie Feldmar2020-11-16T11:00:10-05:002020-11-16T11:00:10-05:00A Decidedly Un-Rockwellian Thanksgiving
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<img alt="Illustrated image of a turkey with a crossed-out circle on top of it." src="https://cdn.vox-cdn.com/thumbor/2xL_ripPwVtioT34gVfmdj-zfZs=/200x0:1800x1200/1310x983/cdn.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_image/image/67782463/EAHHoliday_NoTraditions_Lede.0.jpg" />
</figure>
<p>Release yourself from the pressure of having to adhere to any notion of normalcy or tradition</p> <p id="V4j6II">Every November since the dawn of time, food publications have promised to help you master the perfect Thanksgiving. “Best turkey ever!” and “101 drool-worthy sides!” they tease. What follows is usually a rehashing of the holiday’s greatest hits, with a few new bells and whistles thrown in, because Thanksgiving is all about tradition (and I would know — I’ve spent a decade-plus in food media, helping put together many of those Thanksgiving packages). </p>
<p id="ineyNW">This year, to state the obvious, looks different. Last year, I wrote up some <a href="https://www.eater.com/2019/10/15/20899518/thanksgiving-ideas-for-friendsgiving-skip-the-turkey-nontraditional-holiday-dinners">tips and tricks</a> for people choosing to host a nontraditional Thanksgiving. Now, pretty much everyone is hosting a nontraditional Thanksgiving, whether you want to or not, so you might as well lean in to the weirdness of the 2020 holiday season and make it as enjoyable (and responsible) of a celebration as possible. </p>
<p id="DezfYr">In fact, as a longtime advocate of having a totally un-Rockwellian holiday, I’m actually looking forward to the break from the expectations and pressures of a traditional Thanksgiving feast. Even if you can’t travel or be with extended family (or, hell, anyone outside of your immediate household) this year, you can still throw down for Thanksgiving, but make it your own. After all, tradition is overrated. </p>
<h3 id="GQ6gq5">Skip the turkey </h3>
<p id="12nuK0">I’m just going to lay it down: Turkey is an inferior meat. On a sandwich, it’s fine. But as a centerpiece to a feast that you’ve likely spent many hours preparing, the ROI just isn’t there. I’ve written in the past about hosting <a href="https://www.saveur.com/article/Kitchen/Turkey-Free-Thanksgiving/">Porksgiving</a>, and I’m a staunch ham proponent — it’s dead simple (it’s already cooked, so all you have to do is make a glaze and carve it), cost-effective, and delivers about 100 times more flavor per square bite than turkey. </p>
<p id="Z2n5WV">Other festive meat things you can make besides turkey (or ham):</p>
<ul>
<li id="LpHL5L">
<a href="https://cooking.nytimes.com/recipes/12197-momofukus-bo-ssam">Momofuku’s bo ssam</a> [NYT]</li>
<li id="vz6Yds">
<a href="https://www.seriouseats.com/2010/09/the-food-lab-how-to-make-peking-duck-at-home.html">Peking duck</a> [Serious Eats]</li>
<li id="vwKUtL">
<a href="https://www.gordonramsay.com/gr/recipes/beef-wellington/">Beef Wellington</a> [Gordon Ramsay]</li>
</ul>
<p id="Aciwaq">I’m not the only one who feels this way: Eater Young Gun Lucas Sin (’19) grew up in Hong Kong before attending college in the U.S. “As an immigrant who has less reason to adhere to Thanksgiving tradition, many of my Thanksgivings have featured Chinese bastardization/hacks. Turkey just isn’t as succulent as chicken or duck, and what is the deal with the textural uniformity of casseroles, pumpkin pie, and stuffing?” He recalls holidays alone on campus with a crew of international students, cooking up braised duck stuffed with glutinous rice, sweet potatoes with black rice vinegar, and corn and pine nuts in lieu of traditional Thanksgiving fare. </p>
<h3 id="UpMRS8">You don’t need a dining table</h3>
<p id="Qj0kJI">In previous years, I’ve advocated for “inviting all of your people over” and accommodating them with makeshift tables and chairs. This year, you probably aren’t having all of said people over, so this is less of a concern, but it’s still worth noting in the event that you’re cooking up a feast for your household: </p>
<ul>
<li id="Bh8Pwu">Even if you’ve eaten the better part of every meal with the same people for the past seven months, you can make this meal feel more festive by busting out a new tablecloth, using the fancy plates, and/or setting the table with candles or fresh flowers. </li>
<li id="IfRaX6">Tabletops don’t need to come from tables. Upturned cardboard boxes, bookshelves, filing cabinets, and essentially anything with a flat surface can be used as a table. Just throw a tablecloth, pretty sheet, or even a nice silk scarf on top. Same goes for chairs. Ottomans, couches, and the floor are also perfectly viable substitutes. </li>
<li id="oE799g">You might not be able to fit everything on the table, and that’s totally fine. If you’re celebrating solely with members of your immediate household, set up a buffet in the kitchen, and serve yourself directly out of the cookware. If you’re having a socially distant, outdoor gathering with other people, do the opposite — portion everything into individually sized vessels to avoid cross-contamination. </li>
</ul>
<h3 id="xYWLAl">Looks aren’t everything </h3>
<p id="u2DtyK">Now that you are no longer beholden to turkey, you can also free yourself from the pressure to create a Martha-worthy tablescape. </p>
<ul>
<li id="Yzh0BK">“Embrace mismatched tableware, furniture, and linens and focus on clean lines to keep things from feeling chaotic,” says Eater Young Gun Annie Kamin (’19). “Space things as evenly as possible and create rhythm and balance by evenly distributing both large and small dishes across the table.” </li>
<li id="vaUxFf">Speaking of the table, you can make it look beautiful with found materials from your own backyard. “Gather pine branches (can also double as incense), cones, moss, fall leaves, and anything pretty you can find (shake free of bugs!) and arrange right on the table or on a cake platter,” suggests fellow Young Gun Ashleigh Shanti. </li>
<li id="T3IMeq">Finally, don’t have a huge tablecloth? Use a canvas drop cloth instead. “They’re really cheap and no one will guess that you got it from the hardware store,” swears Kamin. </li>
</ul>
<h3 id="tTmqgo">Pick up from a restaurant</h3>
<p id="4tq2rg">Here’s a radical idea: You don’t have to cook at all. You can get takeout from a restaurant instead. Many restaurants offer special prix fixe menus or meal packages for Thanksgiving, and may sell out early, so order well in advance, and tip extra well. </p>
<p id="3MMhDr">That said, you can also pick up a restaurant meal and <em>not </em>eat Thanksgiving-themed food. Been wanting to try that Sichuan spot in deep Chinatown? Curious about that Georgian place an hour away? There won’t be any traffic; tonight is your night to make it happen. (Tip extra well here, too.) </p>
<p id="YkxEwM">Depending on where you live and what your comfort level is, you can also, of course, choose to dine out on Thanksgiving. If this is the case, do so as responsibly as you can: Maintain proper social distancing, keep your mask on any time you’re not actively eating, and tip very, very generously for the employees who are risking their lives to take care of you. </p>
<h3 id="yAa7hM">Connect in a way that works for you</h3>
<p id="q7Jby6">Families are complicated, and even without a pandemic standing in the way, it’s not always feasible (or advisable) to be with blood relations on Thanksgiving. This year, release yourself from the pressure of having to adhere to any notion of normalcy or tradition. Enjoy the company of those safely surrounding you; Zoom with your friends and family if you want (but not all night — maybe just for cocktails or a round of “what I’m thankful for”); or take the holiday off entirely. The most important thing this year is to do something that makes you feel good (provided it doesn’t harm anyone else along the way) — there’s always next year for a hunk of dry turkey. </p>
<p id="QeFi9s"><a href="http://jamiefeldmar.com/"><small><em>Jamie Feldmar</em></small></a><small><em> is a Los Angeles-based writer, editor, and cookbook author.</em></small><br><small><em>Photo credits: Turkey illustration, GraphicaArtis/Getty</em></small></p>
<aside id="zNAFad"><div data-anthem-component="newsletter" data-anthem-component-data='{"slug":"eater"}'></div></aside>
https://www.eater.com/21561289/how-to-break-thanksgiving-tradition-2020Jamie Feldmar2020-05-18T12:49:52-04:002020-05-18T12:49:52-04:00Stock Your Spice Rack With These Chef-Recommended Essential Spices
<figure>
<img alt="Two rows of spices in glass containers on a wooden shelf" src="https://cdn.vox-cdn.com/thumbor/jp6GmS8QZbBvZAYjoDLycvN8Dwc=/269x0:4790x3391/1310x983/cdn.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_image/image/66811580/shutterstock_328170203.0.jpg" />
<figcaption>It might be time to refresh your spice rack. | <a class="ql-link" href="https://www.shutterstock.com/g/pilipphoto" target="_blank">pilipphoto</a>/Shutterstock</figcaption>
</figure>
<p>From fruity and fragrant to smoky and savory, these spices are the easiest way to level-up your home cooking </p> <p id="gOIFVm">Whether you’re a die-hard recipe follower of more of a freestyle improvisor, one of the easiest things you can do to improve your home cooking is to level up the contents of your spice cabinet. It’s difficult to overstate just how quickly a dash of a fresh, high-quality spice can elevate your entire dish, even if you’re making something simple (and sometimes especially if this is the case; the fewer the ingredients, the more each one shines). And while there’s no one-size-fits-all shopping list for spices — it depends on what you like to cook and eat — it’s wise to have a variety of spices and spice blends that cover a range of flavor profiles. </p>
<p id="gnWZa7">Most pre-ground spices should be replaced every six months or so. Although spices are technically shelf-stable, they do lose their freshness over time, thus rendering your curry dull or your cacio e pepe flat in flavor. A quick smell test should do the trick — if you take a whiff and get nothing, or only a very faint dusty aroma, it’s time for a replacement. Many spice aficionados prefer to buy whole spices, which can last for up to a year and have a more potent flavor, and grind small quantities in a <a href="https://www.eater.com/2018/10/3/17870182/hamilton-beach-coffee-grinder-spices">spice grinder</a> or coffee grinder reserved for that purpose as necessary. Either way, store your spices at room temperature in an airtight container in a dark, cool space — heat and light are the enemies of freshness here. </p>
<p id="zYNzCe">Here, we polled a few pros for their most essential spices and organized them by flavor profile, so you can start to create a well-balanced spice cabinet for all of your cooking and baking needs.</p>
<h2 id="bNaSB7">Fruity and Fragrant</h2>
<div id="mkFljy"><div data-anthem-component="productcard:10329484"></div></div>
<div id="dyBMLB"><div data-anthem-component="productcard:10329485"></div></div>
<div id="n3y9gy"><div data-anthem-component="productcard:10329486"></div></div>
<h2 id="T4lrzC">Smoky and Spicy</h2>
<div id="Zn0duL"><div data-anthem-component="productcard:10329487"></div></div>
<div id="XdWHLk"><div data-anthem-component="productcard:10329488"></div></div>
<div id="QwMdso"><div data-anthem-component="productcard:10329489"></div></div>
<h2 id="N0RLdu">Earthy and Complex </h2>
<div id="F7M57M"><div data-anthem-component="productcard:10329491"></div></div>
<div id="KIo9k4"><div data-anthem-component="productcard:10329492"></div></div>
<h2 id="4Ajb92">Spice Blends </h2>
<div id="PAPcbh"><div data-anthem-component="productcard:10329493"></div></div>
<div id="jpDH0S"><div data-anthem-component="productcard:10329494"></div></div>
<div id="SuXFmh"><div data-anthem-component="productcard:10329495"></div></div>
<h2 id="DRtlmo">Bonus: Salt</h2>
<p id="vAOsA0">While salt isn’t a spice per se, there’s no doubt that investing in a few different kinds for different applications can make a world of difference in your cooking. There’s a wide world of salts out there, but Giambruno recommends two classic brands to keep things simple: “I use Diamond Crystal kosher for cooking and Maldon sea salt for finishing. I like the way Diamond Crystal feels in my hands, and it’s fairly standard in most restaurant kitchens. Maldon is a nice flaky sea salt that adds texture once a dish has already been cooked — put it on salads for a nice crunchy pop of salt, sprinkle it over fresh mozzarella, or put a pinch on top of brownies or chocolate chip cookies to give it that completely addictive candy bar flavor.” </p>
<aside id="AY7qu3"><div data-anthem-component="actionbox" data-anthem-component-data='{"title":"Maldon Sea Salt","description":" ","label":"From $11 at Williams Sonoma","url":"https://go.skimresources.com?id=66960X1516589&amp;xs=1&amp;url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.williams-sonoma.com%2Fproducts%2Fmaldon-salt%2F"}'></div></aside><aside id="jy7tWS"><div data-anthem-component="actionbox" data-anthem-component-data='{"title":"Diamond Crystal Kosher Salt","description":" ","label":"$1 at Instacart ","url":"https://www.instacart.com/products/143947-diamond-crystal-kosher-salt-3-oz"}'></div></aside><p id="IEOG0a"><small><em>Jamie Feldmar is a Los Angeles-based writer and cookbook author. See more at </em></small><a href="http://jamiefeldmar.com/"><small><em>jamiefeldmar.com</em></small></a><small><em> and follow </em></small></p>
<aside id="3Dxjib"><div data-anthem-component="newsletter" data-anthem-component-data='{"slug":"add-to-cart"}'></div></aside><p id="nvhsR6"></p>
https://www.eater.com/2020/5/18/21256222/best-cooking-spices-seasonings-recommended-by-chefsJamie Feldmar2020-05-18T12:17:00-04:002020-05-18T12:17:00-04:00Stock Your Spice Rack With These Chef-Recommended Essential Spices
<figure>
<img alt="Two rows of spices in glass containers on a wooden shelf" src="https://cdn.vox-cdn.com/thumbor/gHYhb_Ra8OmbBKhWhoD_vi6C-Ns=/269x0:4790x3391/1310x983/cdn.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_image/image/67779740/shutterstock_328170203.0.jpg" />
<figcaption>It might be time to refresh your spice rack. | <a class="ql-link" href="https://www.shutterstock.com/g/pilipphoto" target="_blank">pilipphoto</a>/Shutterstock</figcaption>
</figure>
<p>From fruity and fragrant to smoky and savory, these spices are the easiest way to level-up your home cooking </p> <p id="gOIFVm">Whether you’re a die-hard recipe follower of more of a freestyle improvisor, one of the easiest things you can do to improve your home cooking is to level up the contents of your spice cabinet. It’s difficult to overstate just how quickly a dash of a fresh, high-quality spice can elevate your entire dish, even if you’re making something simple (and sometimes especially if this is the case; the fewer the ingredients, the more each one shines). And while there’s no one-size-fits-all shopping list for spices — it depends on what you like to cook and eat — it’s wise to have a variety of spices and spice blends that cover a range of flavor profiles. </p>
<p id="gnWZa7">Most pre-ground spices should be replaced every six months or so. Although spices are technically shelf-stable, they do lose their freshness over time, thus rendering your curry dull or your cacio e pepe flat in flavor. A quick smell test should do the trick — if you take a whiff and get nothing, or only a very faint dusty aroma, it’s time for a replacement. Many spice aficionados prefer to buy whole spices, which can last for up to a year and have a more potent flavor, and grind small quantities in a <a href="https://www.eater.com/2018/10/3/17870182/hamilton-beach-coffee-grinder-spices">spice grinder</a> or coffee grinder reserved for that purpose as necessary. Either way, store your spices at room temperature in an airtight container in a dark, cool space — heat and light are the enemies of freshness here. </p>
<p id="zYNzCe">Here, we polled a few pros for their most essential spices and organized them by flavor profile, so you can start to create a well-balanced spice cabinet for all of your cooking and baking needs.</p>
<h2 id="bNaSB7">Fruity and Fragrant</h2>
<div id="mkFljy"><div data-anthem-component="productcard:10326720"></div></div>
<div id="dyBMLB"><div data-anthem-component="productcard:10326721"></div></div>
<div id="n3y9gy"><div data-anthem-component="productcard:10326722"></div></div>
<h2 id="T4lrzC">Smoky and Spicy</h2>
<div id="Zn0duL"><div data-anthem-component="productcard:10326723"></div></div>
<div id="XdWHLk"><div data-anthem-component="productcard:10326724"></div></div>
<div id="QwMdso"><div data-anthem-component="productcard:10326725"></div></div>
<h2 id="N0RLdu">Earthy and Complex </h2>
<div id="F7M57M"><div data-anthem-component="productcard:10326726"></div></div>
<div id="KIo9k4"><div data-anthem-component="productcard:10326727"></div></div>
<h2 id="4Ajb92">Spice Blends </h2>
<div id="PAPcbh"><div data-anthem-component="productcard:10326728"></div></div>
<div id="jpDH0S"><div data-anthem-component="productcard:10326729"></div></div>
<div id="SuXFmh"><div data-anthem-component="productcard:10326730"></div></div>
<h2 id="DRtlmo">Bonus: Salt</h2>
<p id="vAOsA0">While salt isn’t a spice per se, there’s no doubt that investing in a few different kinds for different applications can make a world of difference in your cooking. There’s a wide world of salts out there, but Giambruno recommends two classic brands to keep things simple: “I use Diamond Crystal kosher for cooking and Maldon sea salt for finishing. I like the way Diamond Crystal feels in my hands, and it’s fairly standard in most restaurant kitchens. Maldon is a nice flaky sea salt that adds texture once a dish has already been cooked — put it on salads for a nice crunchy pop of salt, sprinkle it over fresh mozzarella, or put a pinch on top of brownies or chocolate chip cookies to give it that completely addictive candy bar flavor.” </p>
<aside id="AY7qu3"><div data-anthem-component="actionbox" data-anthem-component-data='{"title":"Maldon Sea Salt","description":" ","label":"From $11 at Williams Sonoma","url":"https://go.skimresources.com?id=66960X1516589&amp;xs=1&amp;url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.williams-sonoma.com%2Fproducts%2Fmaldon-salt%2F"}'></div></aside><aside id="jy7tWS"><div data-anthem-component="actionbox" data-anthem-component-data='{"title":"Diamond Crystal Kosher Salt","description":" ","label":"$1 at Instacart ","url":"https://www.instacart.com/products/143947-diamond-crystal-kosher-salt-3-oz"}'></div></aside><p id="IEOG0a"><small><em>Jamie Feldmar is a Los Angeles-based writer and cookbook author. See more at </em></small><a href="http://jamiefeldmar.com/"><small><em>jamiefeldmar.com</em></small></a><small><em> and follow </em></small></p>
<aside id="3Dxjib"><div data-anthem-component="newsletter" data-anthem-component-data='{"slug":"add-to-cart"}'></div></aside><p id="nvhsR6"></p>
https://www.eater.com/21562799/best-cooking-spices-seasonings-recommended-by-chefsJamie Feldmar2020-04-01T12:31:08-04:002020-04-01T12:31:08-04:00The Coronavirus Delivery Pivot Is Already Coming to an End
<figure>
<img alt="A takeout bag sits on a counter in an empty restaurant" src="https://cdn.vox-cdn.com/thumbor/GlkhuIyDDqfwMnDtVqSUcqsTLbY=/334x0:5667x4000/1310x983/cdn.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_image/image/66587855/QUARANTINE_2019.0.jpg" />
<figcaption>A single order awaits being carried out from Sushi Yasuda in Midtown Manhattan | <a class="ql-link" href="https://garyhe.com" target="_blank">Gary He</a></figcaption>
</figure>
<p>As dining rooms around the country shuttered in response to the pandemic, restaurants turned to delivery and takeout — but now, some chefs are saying it’s not worth it</p> <p class="p--has-dropcap p-large-text" id="tl6kMZ"><strong>“I don’t think we as</strong> a society are fully grasping how fucking dire and dystopian this can get,” says Andy Ricker, the chef and owner of the Pok Pok restaurant group. In the week following Oregon’s March 17 <a href="https://www.documentcloud.org/documents/6817687-Stay-Home-Save-Lives.html">order</a> to shutter dining rooms statewide to slow the spread of COVID-19, five of Ricker’s seven Portland-area restaurants continued operating in a takeout or delivery capacity. But after chef Floyd Cardoz’s March 25 <a href="https://ny.eater.com/2020/3/25/21193746/floyd-cardoz-chef-dies-covid-19">death</a> from complications of COVID-19, <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/B-Ka-nTBQh3/">a loss that Ricker described on Instagram</a> as “an arrow to the heart,” he decided to <a href="https://pdx.eater.com/2020/3/25/21194167/pok-pok-closed">close all of his restaurants</a>. “We are food professionals,” he wrote. “We’re okay following health code, and being careful about spreading foodborne illnesses. But a deadly coronavirus? That’s just not something we’re trained to deal with. It just hit me: It’s better to close than to be open.”</p>
<p id="ev7rAS">Ricker joins a growing number of chefs and restaurant owners <a href="https://detroit.eater.com/2020/3/30/21199858/detroit-restaurants-cafes-closing-novel-coronavirus-covid-19-are-restaurants-essential-services">across the country</a> who <a href="https://www.eater.com/2020/3/13/21178890/fine-dining-restaurants-react-coronavirus-covid-19-takeout">initially tried to make a go of takeout and/or delivery</a> after <a href="https://www.nytimes.com/2020/03/17/us/shelter-in-place-order-bay-area.html">many</a> <a href="https://www.pressherald.com/2020/03/24/portland-orders-residents-to-shelter-in-place/">cities</a> <a href="https://ny.curbed.com/2020/3/20/21187022/coronavirus-new-york-shutdown-shelter-in-place">implemented</a> social distancing <a href="https://www.doh.wa.gov/Emergencies/BePreparedBeSafe/SevereWeatherandNaturalDisasters/ShelterInPlace">or</a> shelter-in-place <a href="https://www.sfdph.org/dph/alerts/files/HealthOrderC19-07-%20Shelter-in-Place.pdf">plans</a>, but have recently decided it was too risky for the health and safety of their workers, and are instead choosing to close entirely. Last week, Chicago’s One Off Hospitality Group <a href="https://chicago.eater.com/2020/3/30/21199011/one-off-hospitality-covid-19-entente-schwa-takeout-illinois-grocery-bags">announced</a> it was closing its restaurants (which include Big Star and the Publican) due to safety concerns for staff and customers; in Houston, Ford Fry announced he was shutting down his restaurants <a href="https://houston.eater.com/2020/3/26/21195606/ford-fry-closing-takeout-la-lucha-superica-state-of-grace-health-and-safety-concerns-coronavirus">for similar reasons</a>. This week, Los Angeles’s Sqirl added to the chorus, <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/B-aXGfNnFgx/">writing on Instagram</a> that the restaurant’s last day of service will be April 3. At suburban Detroit’s Eli Tea, Elias Majid made the tough decision to close his shop thanks in part to “customers not respecting distance,” he tells Eater. “One lady came in visibly sweating and coughing.” From a financial perspective, Majid had been doing well, as had many of the restaurant owners interviewed for this story. But it’s public health they’re more concerned about now. </p>
<p id="HzVVnu">“The unfortunate reality is that there are no concrete guidelines available for small restaurants about how to operate in a way that’s not endangering their employees and potentially their customers,” says Heather Sperling, co-owner of Botanica in Los Angeles. When the city’s “safer-at-home” orders came down on March 19, Sperling and her partner, Emily Fiffer, quickly rejiggered their restaurant setup into a marketplace, selling pantry items, fresh produce, and prepared foods. </p>
<p id="1SQpZr">Business was “hugely successful,” Sperling says, and the revenue sustainable enough to allow Botanica to stay open indefinitely. And yet, on March 20, she and Fiffer <a href="https://www.instagram.com/botanicafood/?hl=en">announced</a> on Instagram that they were closing to “regroup, restock & do a precautionary quarantine.” Ultimately, “until we better understand how to operate in a way that truly feels safe — if that’s even possible — we didn’t feel it was fair to put our employees at risk,” Sperling says. </p>
<hr class="p-entry-hr" id="qQBMWs">
<p id="UBa4rA"><strong>In other parts of the country</strong>, other operators echoed that sentiment. On March 25, the team at Jonathan Waxman’s beloved New York City restaurant Barbuto <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/B-K5dJQH2b4/">announced</a> they were halting their popular to-go operation and closing entirely. “We have been so thrilled to have your support, however the crisis has become too hard to justify our staying open. ... Until the government declares New York City safe, we will remain hunkered down for the duration,” they wrote. Other restaurants across the city, including Superiority Burger and Cafe Katja, posted <a href="https://www.instagram.com/cafekatja/?hl=en">similar</a> <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/B9vb0v0lXK-/">messages</a> of their own. </p>
<p id="qOSmn3">Back in Portland, Ricker’s post hit home for Johnny Nunn, the owner of Verdigris. Although the French-inspired restaurant had been doing a robust curbside takeout business, Nunn decided to close down on March 25. “I just feel outmatched,” he explains. “I’m a cook. I’m not qualified to make decisions about people’s wellbeing in the face of a crisis.” </p>
<p id="amTebR">Some chefs and owners say that part of the issue is the lack of guidance about worker safety from local and federal officials, who are themselves scrambling to manage and distribute information to an industry in crisis. Nick Cho, the owner of San Francisco’s Wrecking Ball Coffee Roasters, has written Medium posts about the measures he’s put in place to keep his workers safe: They include trying to <a href="https://medium.com/@nickcho/we-turned-into-a-walk-up-window-cafe-9c29c5416e33">minimize all contact</a> by moving service to the front door, installing an enormous plexiglass sneeze guard that separates customers from baristas, and asking all customers to wrap their fingers in a sheet of thin wax paper before signing on a touch screen for their credit card orders. Momofuku owner David Chang has also been particularly vocal on this topic: As part of a long <a href="https://twitter.com/davidchang/status/1243313301947285507">Twitter thread</a> on the question of how to keep workers safe in the event that restaurants reopen, he wrote, “One thing is for certain we cannot wait for local, state or federal authorities to prepare us. We need to go on the offensive here.”</p>
<p id="2Nq5ye">“What I wish is that there would be rapid training and mobilization within the Health Department, to send a free consultant to any operation that wants to stay open at all, to come into their facility and help establish best practices,” Sperling says. “Instead, what we got was an email alerting us to the safer-at-home ordinance that had been passed four days earlier. It was laughably, dismayingly useless.” </p>
<p id="FnMCZH">When I reached out to the Los Angeles County Department of Public Health to ask if it had any specific guidelines for restaurants to operate safely in a takeout or delivery capacity, it sent over <a href="http://publichealth.lacounty.gov/media/Coronavirus/GuidanceFoodFacilities.pdf">this link</a>, which encourages increased handwashing, basic food safety precautions, and the establishment of “social distancing practices for those patrons in the queue when ordering or during pick-up.” It declined to comment further. </p>
<p id="8Rvib7">Other officials are trying to address an issue of unprecedented scale, while grappling with quickly changing and sometimes-conflicting information about the virus and best practices for preventing it. In Oregon’s Multnomah County, where Portland is located, environmental health supervisor Jeff Martin says his team has been calling every restaurant in their district individually, talking to them about how to safely execute delivery and takeout and answering as many questions as possible—often, he says, about proper sanitation procedures and what exactly “contactless” delivery means. “We’re doing phone calls, video inspections, and email—we’re trying to use technology to cover as much ground as possible,” he says. The Multnomah County Health Department has set up an online <a href="https://multco.us/novel-coronavirus-covid-19/covid-19-guidance-restaurants-and-food-service">FAQ page</a> that’s updated constantly with questions like “Should I wear a mask when preparing food?” (“No, masks should only be worn for people experiencing symptoms. If you are experiencing symptoms, you should not be at work.”) and “What are acceptable takeout and grab-and-go methods?” (Maintain social distance, no self-service, etc.)</p>
<p id="hC1nJH">And on a personal level, Martin adds that he still feels comfortable ordering takeout. “I think it’s still safe,” he says. “I’ve been picking up food almost every day.” </p>
<p id="32jffi"></p>
<div class="c-wide-block"> <figure class="e-image">
<img alt="Markings on the sidewalk in bright green painters tape map out where people should stand" data-mask-text="false" src="https://cdn.vox-cdn.com/thumbor/NVatW7Y55n4VK4_Dpdz9PqreF0Y=/800x0/filters:no_upscale()/cdn.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_asset/file/19863266/CARBONE_1002.jpg">
<cite><a class="ql-link" href="https://garyhe.com" target="_blank">Gary He</a></cite>
<figcaption>Carbone in Manhattan resorted to taping out spaces for waiting couriers to maintain distance</figcaption>
</figure>
</div>
<p id="K7cFQC"><strong>Not everyone is discouraged</strong> by the efforts of their local officials. In Raleigh, North Carolina, chef Ashley Christensen has been working closely with the Wake County Health Department to stay ahead of rapidly changing developments: On March 17, the state <a href="https://www.newsobserver.com/news/coronavirus/article241245211.html">ordered</a> all bars and restaurants closed for dine-in; on March 27, Wake County <a href="http://www.wakegov.com/news/Lists/Posts/Post.aspx?ID=1200">issued</a> shelter-in-place orders. “We’ve been in constant contact with the governor and county reps; any time any document is produced, we have direct access to it, and we distribute it to a number of colleagues,” Christensen says. “These guys are busy, they have a lot on their plates right now.” </p>
<p id="tNxQN4">Christensen started offering takeout at her restaurants two weeks ago, but found herself dealing with an unforeseen problem: the crowds who clamored outside without adhering to social-distancing guidelines. It’s an issue that has dogged restaurants around the country, and created perhaps the biggest threat to takeout safety. This became <a href="https://ny.eater.com/2020/3/23/21190803/carbone-crowds-nyc-delivery-takeout-coronavirus">startlingly clear</a> the week before last at the New York City restaurant Carbone, where the crowds of delivery workers and pickup customers were so bad that the police had to be called and the restaurant’s managers eventually closed down the operation, leaving a number of customers empty-handed. </p>
<p id="ttDRA7">“We can’t really control how the public thinks and how they interact with each other in front of our shops,” Christensen says. So she and her business partner and wife, Kaitlyn Goalen, quickly made the decision to pivot to a delivery-only model, offering premade dinner kits prepared in a commissary kitchen with social-distancing practices in place. </p>
<div class="c-float-right c-float-hang"><aside id="8XKSU2"><q>“I don’t think anyone who is staying open is really thinking they’ll make money — most of them are scared that if they close, they’ll lose everything.”</q></aside></div>
<p id="BbLfal">The pair aren’t sure what they’ll do in a few days when they run out of the product they had already ordered, and which had made the switch to delivery temporarily possible. “Takeout and delivery was important for us to do for a week to stretch the timeline of what we could do for the team we’ve been able to retain, and hopefully stretch the cash flow until we can access some other kind of support,” says Goalen. “But the biggest concern here is the very real reality that people are getting sick and dying.”</p>
<p id="3hsmrK">All of the chefs interviewed for this story have been in constant communication with their staff about whether they felt comfortable coming to work. “I checked in with every person on my team, and they all said, as bad and hard as this is, I feel safer not working,” says Sylvie Gabriele, owner of Love & Salt in Manhattan Beach, California. After initially pivoting to become a curbside and delivery grocery popup, Gabriele <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/B-K6RfiBxIB/">decided</a> to close on March 26. “I wanted to ride as far as we could until some relief came through, so there could be a little good news,” Gabriele says. “I’m just hoping I didn’t wait too long.” The day after she closed the restaurant, the House of Representatives passed a $2 trillion economic stimulus plan, which will offer <a href="https://www.restaurant-hospitality.com/owners/here-s-what-2-trillion-economic-stimulus-plan-does-restaurants">some relief</a> to affected workers in the restaurant industry — though it still <a href="https://www.eater.com/2020/3/27/21197592/coronavirus-stimulus-package-not-good-enough-for-restaurants-workers-covid-19">might not be enough</a> for small-business owners and millions of workers.</p>
<p id="0PK1Td">Some owners who are frustrated by the lack of guidance from official sources are still choosing to stay open, and implementing extraordinary safety precautions as best they can. In San Francisco, which <a href="https://www.sfdph.org/dph/alerts/files/HealthOrderC19-07-%20Shelter-in-Place.pdf">ordered</a> restaurants and bars to close for dine-in service and residents to shelter in place on March 17, Wrecking Ball owner Nick Cho says that safety means “taking control of our space and the customer environment.” Of the measures he’s taken to that end, he explains, “I’m just trying to think about it in terms of managing systems and creating protocols and procedures. Too much is being left to individuals to figure this out on our own.”</p>
<p id="olqRyA">Most chefs empathize with their colleagues who choose to stay open. “I can’t find fault with it — I myself was there just a few days ago,” says Ricker. “I wanted to protect as many employees’ job status as I could, and I wanted to show spirit and feed the community. I don’t think anyone who is staying open is really thinking they’ll make money — most of them are scared that if they close, they’ll lose everything.”</p>
<p class="c-end-para" id="wxMuvC">He hopes that as the situation continues to evolve, the government will “do the right thing” and provide relief so that more operators feel comfortable shutting their doors. “I love my restaurants, and I love the restaurant world, but we are not a part of the supply chain that can deliver basic human necessities to stay alive in hardship,” Ricker says. “We have got to stay home. All of us.” </p>
<p id="B1OZ0K"><small><em>Jamie Feldmar is a Los Angeles-based writer and cookbook author. See more at </em></small><a href="http://jamiefeldmar.com/"><small><em>jamiefeldmar.com</em></small></a><small><em> and follow her </em></small><a href="https://www.instagram.com/jfeldmar/"><small><em>@jfeldmar</em></small></a><small><em>.</em></small><br><small><em>Photos by </em></small><a href="https://garyhe.com"><small><em>Gary He</em></small></a></p>
<aside id="uNU9yf"><div data-anthem-component="newsletter" data-anthem-component-data='{"slug":"eater"}'></div></aside>
https://www.eater.com/2020/4/1/21202173/coronavirus-delivery-takeout-closing-andy-ricker-sqirlJamie Feldmar2020-03-30T11:00:00-04:002020-03-30T11:00:00-04:00How to Stock a Pantry
<figure>
<img alt="Kale, olive oil, dried pasta, bread, canned tomatoes, a bag of flour, and pickles float in front of a wooden pantry." src="https://cdn.vox-cdn.com/thumbor/QstijF_DPzh-KTT_NggawN2UI7s=/200x0:1800x1200/1310x983/cdn.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_image/image/66565177/EatHome_Lede_StockYourPantry.0.jpg" />
</figure>
<p>A shopping list to make your cooking that much better</p> <p class="p--has-dropcap p-large-text" id="YdenZW">With the restaurant world continuing its <a href="https://www.eater.com/2020/3/24/21184301/restaurant-industry-data-impact-covid-19-coronavirus">devastating free-fall</a> and more cities issuing stay-at-home orders, it’s a fair assumption that you will be cooking at home, potentially more than ever. </p>
<p id="HkUd0A">If you’re used to going out to restaurants, this can feel like a jarring transition at first. Professional chefs are professionals for a reason; they have an arsenal of techniques and ingredients that few home cooks — even the most enthusiastic ones — can match. That said, there are a few things you can do to load your pantry with both the basics and a few restaurant-style secret weapons to take your home cooking to the next level. </p>
<p id="eDoLcl">A few things to keep in mind: There is no one-size-fits-all shopping list. Take a look at what you already have, and think about how you actually eat. Sure, <a href="https://www.eater.com/2020/3/13/21178965/beans-hoarding-coronavirus-gordo-rancho">beans are so hot right now</a>, but do you like beans? Be realistic with your cooking plans and ability — if spending hours on an intricate pastry project is soothing for you, by all means, but if you just need to get a meal on the table for you and your family, that’s absolutely okay too. Not every meal needs to be blockbuster; even the most food-obsessed among us sometimes just eat to live. </p>
<p id="ce1KXG">When it comes to shopping, make a list and have a plan so you can get in and out of the store quickly. If the store doesn’t have what you need, it’s probably not worth going to another — be flexible and try something you maybe wouldn’t have picked up before. And if you can’t get to a store (or there aren’t open ones near you), online grocery remains an option, from the likes of <a href="https://www.amazon.com/alm/storefront?almBrandId=QW1hem9uIEZyZXNo&tag=eater0c-20" rel="sponsored nofollow noopener" target="_blank">Amazon</a> and <a href="https://go.redirectingat.com?id=66960X1516589&xs=1&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.shipt.com%2F&referrer=eater.com&sref=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.eater.com%2F2020%2F3%2F30%2F21196551%2Fhow-to-stock-pantry-grocery-shopping-list-home-cooking" rel="sponsored nofollow noopener" target="_blank">Shipt</a>. It’s also worth noting here that <a href="https://www.eater.com/2020/3/20/21187688/restaurants-become-corner-stores-to-survive-coronavirus-covid-19-pandemic">many restaurants are selling pantry items and produce</a> as part of their takeout packages — check their Instagrams or websites for up-to-date info on where to shop.</p>
<hr class="p-entry-hr" id="pqZDfu">
<h2 id="YwwSW0">Stocking your pantry: the basics</h2>
<p id="VFmpzk">Consider these items the foundation of a well-stocked kitchen — essential building blocks to cooking all kinds of dishes. Many of the items here are shelf-stable, and we’ve provided tips for shopping and storing meat, dairy, and produce as well.</p>
<h3 id="uMwxqf">Pasta and grains</h3>
<ul>
<li id="p3OOOv">Long pasta, short pasta, tubular pasta — whatever you can get your hands on, really. </li>
<li id="Y1AiLJ">Grain-wise, rice is an obvious choice (short and long grain, all colors), but don’t forget whole and ancient grains like farro, barley, bulgur, freekeh, and quinoa. </li>
</ul>
<h3 id="Is8l50">Canned and jarred goods</h3>
<ul>
<li id="fneGST">Canned tomatoes (whole provides the most versatility — you can always crush or blend them yourself)</li>
<li id="f2smZf">Coconut milk for enhancing soups and curries, cooking rice, or poaching meat</li>
<li id="Uo0piW">Stock/broth (though you can also make your own, it doesn’t hurt to have backup)</li>
<li id="ZNS1LE">Jarred salsas/simmer sauces (great for tying together a bunch of refrigerator loose ends in a pot)</li>
<li id="97zhXJ">Nut butters</li>
<li id="bWDPyz">Pickles </li>
<li id="qSUqVC">Condiments (mustard, jam, soy sauce, etc.)</li>
</ul>
<h3 id="hM6ujS">Beans and legumes</h3>
<ul>
<li id="IqhWKd">Nutritious and long-lasting, and can be eaten on their own, or added to soups, stews, salads, stir-fries, and more. Dried beans are <a href="https://www.eater.com/2020/3/13/21178965/beans-hoarding-coronavirus-gordo-rancho">all the rage</a>, and generally taste better if you’re willing to put in the time to cook them, but canned also work. </li>
<li id="0p0UOq">Yes, you should definitely get chickpeas and cannellini beans, but don’t forget lentils, split peas, and black-eyed peas, too. </li>
</ul>
<h3 id="SntUWR">Baking supplies</h3>
<ul>
<li id="5qoJ8n">Flour (and alternative flours if that’s how you roll)</li>
<li id="PJ0X6X">Sugar (brown, white, confectioners)</li>
<li id="0T49eX">Baking soda and powder</li>
<li id="ItSObT">Yeast for that bread you’re going to make</li>
</ul>
<h3 id="6GShSp">Bread</h3>
<ul><li id="N564vF">Homemade or not, can be pre-sliced and frozen for easier heating</li></ul>
<h3 id="kPRCzn">Oil, vinegar, spices</h3>
<ul>
<li id="J0lHNx">Olive is standard, though grab canola too, which is better for high-heat cooking. </li>
<li id="zPYY7P">Vinegar (apple cider and rice are good starting points) </li>
<li id="0iT7iO">Whatever spices you frequently cook or bake with — allspice, bay leaves, cumin, cinnamon, chile flakes, oregano, paprika, pepper, vanilla, etc. </li>
</ul>
<h3 id="yCQdc9">Produce</h3>
<ul>
<li id="FgN0ai">Lemons, limes, onions, garlic, and root vegetables (potatoes, squash, carrots, beets) last a long time. </li>
<li id="urDtDy">Hearty greens like kale and collards will keep for a week, as will most uncut fruit. </li>
<li id="BfjbaQ">Frozen fruit and veggies are also an option, and you can do it yourself — on the fruit front, berries, bananas, and mango do well; veggie-wise, peas, corn, kale, and edamame are easy to throw in a plastic bag, squeeze all the air out, and pop in the freezer.</li>
<li id="HEJwDN">Fresh soft herbs such as parsley, cilantro, and mint can keep for up to a week if washed, dried, and covered loosely in the fridge. If a bunch is on the verge of collapsing, blitz it into pesto, chimichurri, or an herby vinaigrette. Fresh herbs can also be chopped or pureed with oil and frozen in ice cube trays. </li>
</ul>
<h3 id="8p0FnS">Dairy and eggs</h3>
<ul>
<li id="RzyTj8">Hard cheeses like Parmesan (in block form) last for weeks; cheddar, Gruyere, and feta are also safe bets. </li>
<li id="3VWk50">Eggs are good for breakfast, baking, and tying a bowl of odds and ends together; they keep in the refrigerator for several weeks, as does butter (which also freezes well). </li>
</ul>
<h3 id="Ygh3R5">Meat and seafood</h3>
<ul><li id="96v8LX">The best meats to freeze are cuts that can stand up to a long cook (braising or roasting) without losing their integrity — think ground meat, bone-in chicken legs and thighs, beef brisket or chuck. Frozen shrimp and fish filets are also convenient to keep on hand. </li></ul>
<hr class="p-entry-hr" id="eTBUKh">
<h2 id="PHYWEA">Stocking your pantry: the not-so-basics</h2>
<p id="q0I4xN">Consider these your next-level flavor enhancers — not strictly essential but the welcome-if-you-can-get-’em ingredients that chefs frequently employ to add more depth, spice, tang, or zip to a dish. </p>
<h3 id="WTCNVb">Texture boosters</h3>
<ul>
<li id="xTArjm">Fried shallots: Fried shallots make it easy to add crunch to rice and noodles, salads, and baked pastas or casseroles. Buy a big bag at an Asian grocer, or turn to the classics (French’s fried onions) in a pinch. They’re also easy (if a little time consuming) to make yourself if you bring home enough shallots from the market.</li>
<li id="BA24Uo">Chile oil/chile crisp: Add a spicy, garlicky, crunchy kick to everything from rice to veggies to chicken and fish. If you’re feeling frisky, try it on vanilla ice cream. </li>
</ul>
<h3 id="C7uCjp">Fermented and pickled things</h3>
<ul>
<li id="1FiZT3">Kimchi, sauerkraut, pickled beets, and miso are all instant flavor enhancers and keep indefinitely in the fridge. Miso in particular is a versatile umami-booster that’s at home in soup, marinades, cookies, and more. </li>
<li id="Ad9JzI">Preserved lemons: They last forever, add a cured citrus brightness to stews, curries, grain dishes, and more, and are <a href="https://cooking.nytimes.com/recipes/1016212-preserved-lemons">easy to make</a>. </li>
</ul>
<h3 id="h7igfL">Cured meats and tinned seafood</h3>
<ul>
<li id="ki3A3Q">Tinned fish: anchovies for melting into sauces and dressings; sardines, mackerel, salmon and/or oil-packed tuna for snacking or flaking into a salad or pasta. </li>
<li id="XETQdC">Charcuterie: In addition to being good snacking material, cured meats like salami and smoked meats like bacon keep well, and can be added to broths and stir-fries, and baked into or on top of bready things. </li>
</ul>
<h3 id="ucmF6V">Spreads and stir-ins</h3>
<ul>
<li id="AYBfJn">Fancy dairy: Labneh and/or creme fraiche are exactly the type of rich, creamy, tangy, dairy-based comfort that can pump a dish up. Throw a dollop on top of roasted vegetables, soups, or baked goods. </li>
<li id="elfQvo">Tahini: Use the creamy ground sesame paste in salad dressings, veggie dips, and baked goods. </li>
</ul>
<h3 id="EKVHb0">Next-level seasoning</h3>
<ul>
<li id="zhtTKj">Turmeric: It’s been popular in India for thousands of years, and with good reason — its vibrant golden hue and electric flavor enhance everything from curries to cakes to eggs to smoothies.</li>
<li id="PJ2fcY">Harissa: A spicy North African chile paste that zips up sauces, eggs, marinades, dips, stir-fries, and more. </li>
<li id="d8cPvg">Finishing salt: Kosher salt is the type most commonly called for in recipes, but finishing dishes with a sprinkle of flaky sea salt (Maldon for purists, Jacobsen’s for modern tastes) is an easy way to feel fancy at home. </li>
</ul>
<p id="V3jjTh"><small><em>Jamie Feldmar is a Los Angeles-based writer and cookbook author. See more at </em></small><a href="http://jamiefeldmar.com/"><small><em>jamiefeldmar.com</em></small></a><small><em> and follow her </em></small><a href="https://www.instagram.com/jfeldmar/"><small><em>@jfeldmar</em></small></a><small><em>.</em></small><br><small><em>Photo credits: Kale photo, Lew Robertson/Getty; Olive oil photo, George Clerk/Getty; Dried pasta photo, Brian Hagiwara/Getty; Loaf of bread photo, Diamond Sky Images/Getty; all other product images courtesy vendors</em></small></p>
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https://www.eater.com/2020/3/30/21196551/how-to-stock-pantry-grocery-shopping-list-home-cookingJamie Feldmar