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How a New York Sushi Master Is Creating a New Omakase

At Maki Kosaka, chef Sho Boo shows New Yorkers that there are many sushi styles beyond edomae

“These days in New York, people seem to be more drawn to the unique sushi styles rather than the traditional styles,” says Sho Boo, chef of Maki Kosaka. “I don’t think anyone thinks edomae sushi is the only style anymore.” Because of these observations, Boo has become known for the variety of sushi styles she incorporates on her menu.

One such style is temari sushi. Boo explains that in Japan, temari sushi is usually made for children’s celebrations, but the types she creates are anything but child’s play.

“It’s always better for temari to look more festive. It’s a little lonely to have just one,” she says, making a tray of three. The first is made with kinmedai, a red fish which is often served at celebrations and is traditionally associated with happiness. She sears its skin, and then rolls a ball of rice into a round, bite-size shape. She presses the fish on top of the rice, and wraps the entirety in plastic to make a perfect ball shape. Once unwrapped, she tops the piece of kinmedai with a slice of cucumber and dot of caviar.

For the second temari sushi, she de-scales a golden-hued shibudai fish — a rare and often expensive catch. She tenderizes its firm meat, and presses it into rice. To give it “cuteness and color on top,” — she adds a thinly sliced piece of pink lotus root. The third temari features scallops, which she cuts into a flower shape, and assembles atop another round bite-size ball of rice along with a dollop of roe.

She presents the three temari sushi of shubudai, kinmedai, and scallop on a platter, noting how they seem colorful, celebratory, and fun.

Check out the video to see what other kinds of unique sushi are created by chef Boo for her omakase menu.

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