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The Good, the Bad, and the Tacky of Hudson Yards

From the Editor: Everything you missed in food news last week

A patron charges their phone Alex Staniloff

This post originally appeared on June 1, 2019, in Amanda Kludt’s newsletter “From the Editor,” a roundup of the most vital news and stories in the food world each week. Read the archives and subscribe now.

The Shops at Hudson Yards, the mall within the New York mega-development, is not a place where I would want to spend much time, even though it’s jam-packed with potentially exciting restaurants.

Luckily our critics Robert Sietsema and Ryan Sutton took one for the team and spent a lot of time — days upon days — at Hudson Yards over the past two months to review a plethora of restaurants and stands. Their collection of reviews and guidance to the space — part of the most expensive development in American history — dropped on Eater New York this week. What do the best restaurants money can buy offer New Yorkers?

The Good News:

Robert’s list of the best things you can find around the mall for under $20, often “located in obscure corners, along lanes that hold no further interest” and his first look at José Andrés’ Spanish market.

Kawi: “’s heartwarming to see a superstar operator show up to a $25 billion complex that’s become a bastion of bland steakhouses and use it to represent dishes that are still largely underrepresented, or undervalued, throughout the country’s fine dining scene.”

Milos Wine Bar: ”To dine at Estiatorio Milos in Hudson Yards, one of the city’s most expensive seafood restaurants, is to witness the efforts of a small army...To dine downstairs at Milos Wine Bar, however, is to witness a very different ballet, and arguably a more compelling one.”

The Bad News:

Wild Ink: “In place of classic bulgogi, diners are treated to a veritable Frankenstein of a dish, an unholy triad recalling microwaveable Hot Pockets, airline Korean food, and hospital-quality Welsh rarebit.”

TAK Room: “The a la carte format in this case lets the 1 percent flex their wealth — amid the company of their privileged brethren — without the burden of a four-hour meal or throngs of destination diners seeking culinary enlightenment. It’s just dinner.”

Estiatorio Milos: “Constant incongruities on a bill at Milos feel more like the work of an unscrupulous bookie than an honest act of hospitality.”

On Eater

Patricia Chang

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