This post originally appeared on September 15, 2018, in Amanda Kludt’s newsletter “From the Editor,” a roundup of the most vital news and stories in the food world each week. Read the archives and subscribe now.
Oh man, this week. The Cooking Light news is sad. The Spotted Pig news, unsurprising. New York won’t get a celebrity for governor, and we still can’t help but obsess over the quotidien dining habits and predilections of our politicians on the campaign trail (I guess bagels are more fun to read about than Manafort). Meanwhile a hurricane circles.
In terms of finding pure delight this week, I found refuge in the new issue of zombie Interview magazine and the conversation between Mission Chinese’s Danny Bowien and 80-year-old restaurant world legend Michael Chow (of high-end chain Mr. Chow). Chow’s poem to his assistant and lover is mildly disturbing, but that Bowien lead photo and the interview are A++.
- “in Mr. Chow, every client who comes in is greeted by a maître d’. He’s the one who tells you, ‘I love you, but don’t fuck with me. I’m Mr. Perfect.’”
- “Every morning when I shave, I say, “Wow, what a beautiful, perfect face! I don’t need any makeup. I don’t need a heavy eyebrow ruining my beauty.” It’s the same with food.”
- “A lot of people want to kill me, and sometimes the waiters will even disobey me. I’ll have a fistfight with the waiters.”
- “I’m 79, but I only hang out with people under 40.”
Openings of the Week, LA Edition
Bar: I don’t know if it’s the actual drinks themsleves or just Wonho Frank Lee’s photos of them (or editor Matt Kang’s spin on the place), but I’m suddenly anxious to get back to LA to try out the cocktails at the Wolves, a new Downtown LA drinking destination.
Head bartender Kevin Lee is making his own vermouths, bitters, and amaros; mixing, steeping, and macerating his own liqueurs; and just making dramatically pretty (and $$$$) drinks.
Restaurant: Another must-visit on my next trip to LA will be Simone, a long-awaited restaurant from Eater Young Gun Jessica Largey, opening on Thursday. I’m into the Art Deco vibe, have loved her food in the past, and am just curious to try it after so many months (years?) of delays. LMK if you go.
- Intel: Chefs Gabrielle Hamilton and Ashley Merriman decided not to follow through with their controversial plan to partner with Ken Friedman to run the Spotted Pig; Washington, D.C., now has its very own three-Michelin-starred restaurant; the folks behind Chef’s Table announced the chef subjects of their next two seasons; Portland is getting a high-end hostel from Iceland with an exciting restaurant attached; Filipino superchain Jollibee bought a $12.4 million stake in Rick Bayless’s fast-casual chain Tortas Frontera; Carla Hall is getting a regular Good Morning America cooking segment; Michael Mina opened a location of Bourbon Steak on the 34th floor of a hotel in Nashville; a very exciting chef, Anna Tobias, is taking over London’s most exciting restaurant, P. Franco; gubernatorial candidate Cynthia Nixon caused a stir with a bagel order (and then a wild photoshop); Eunjo Park will be the executive chefat Dave Chang’s upcoming monter of a restaurant at Hudson Yards; hip London hotel the Hoxton opened in Brooklyn with three dining venues run by established locals; the team behind Ramen Tatsuya opened their third location in the old Qui space in Austin; Portland empire builder Vitaly Paley has another restaurant in the works; the people behind Joe Beef now have a very tempting-looking luncheonette; SF is getting its first Shake Shack; and all the Australians in my office are wildly excited for the New York location of Bourke Street Bakery.
- TFW you are opening a beautiful rooftop bar but don’t want your customers to forget they’re in a boring corporate hotel.
- Wow, Detroit has some wild restaurant bathrooms.
- An Eater producer on the behind-the-scenes struggles to improve representation in video and film.
- What the surge in restaurant-worker fundraisers says about the sad state of the American healthcare system.
- Comedian Aparna Nancherla answers the Famous Original Eater Questionairre.
- I need to eat these Japanese souffle pancakes that are now available in San Francisco ASAP.
This Week on the Podcast
This week on the Eater Upsell podcast, Daniel and I talk about death! First, we talk to chef Will Horowitz about slaughtering eels. St. Anselm chefs Katrina Zito and Sarah Cooper discuss being on the front lines of relationship death. And Eater’s restaurant editor Hillary Dixler Canavan talks about dead plants in restaurants and strategies forkeeping them alive.
- Forget food halls. The new amenity luxury condo developers want is resident-only restaurants. [WSJ]
- You can glean a thing or two about the economy when you’re the maitre d’ to the Masters of the Universe. [NYT]
- Shout out to my husband’s favorite after-work hangout, Forlini’s, which is apparently a newly hot destination for the influencer set. [NYT]
- Sorry, but Salt Bae is still something. [@saltbae]
- Black napkins are the ’90s status symbol you never knew about. [New Yorker]
- What Outback steak sandwiches meant to the 9/11 recovery workers. [Toss Your Own Salad]
- Eataly offers paid parental leave to all workers, no matter their hours. [BNA]