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Just a Great Photo of Danny Bowien and a Lobster

From the Editor: On Cooking Light, Danny Bowien’s fashion, LA debuts, and more.

Danny Bowien in Interview magazine

This post originally appeared on September 15, 2018, in Amanda Kludt’s newsletter “From the Editor,” a roundup of the most vital news and stories in the food world each week. Read the archives and subscribe now.


Oh man, this week. The Cooking Light news is sad. The Spotted Pig news, unsurprising. New York won’t get a celebrity for governor, and we still can’t help but obsess over the quotidien dining habits and predilections of our politicians on the campaign trail (I guess bagels are more fun to read about than Manafort). Meanwhile a hurricane circles.

In terms of finding pure delight this week, I found refuge in the new issue of zombie Interview magazine and the conversation between Mission Chinese’s Danny Bowien and 80-year-old restaurant world legend Michael Chow (of high-end chain Mr. Chow). Chow’s poem to his assistant and lover is mildly disturbing, but that Bowien lead photo and the interview are A++.

Bowien, who’s become a bit of a style icon (or style ... something?) of late, brings it with the photos. Chow brings it with the quotes, including...

- “in Mr. Chow, every client who comes in is greeted by a maître d’. He’s the one who tells you, ‘I love you, but don’t fuck with me. I’m Mr. Perfect.’”

- “Every morning when I shave, I say, “Wow, what a beautiful, perfect face! I don’t need any makeup. I don’t need a heavy eyebrow ruining my beauty.” It’s the same with food.”

- “A lot of people want to kill me, and sometimes the waiters will even disobey me. I’ll have a fistfight with the waiters.”

- “I’m 79, but I only hang out with people under 40.”


Openings of the Week, LA Edition

Kevin Lee of The Wolves
Wonho Frank Lee

Bar: I don’t know if it’s the actual drinks themsleves or just Wonho Frank Lee’s photos of them (or editor Matt Kang’s spin on the place), but I’m suddenly anxious to get back to LA to try out the cocktails at the Wolves, a new Downtown LA drinking destination.

Head bartender Kevin Lee is making his own vermouths, bitters, and amaros; mixing, steeping, and macerating his own liqueurs; and just making dramatically pretty (and $$$$) drinks.

Restaurant: Another must-visit on my next trip to LA will be Simone, a long-awaited restaurant from Eater Young Gun Jessica Largey, opening on Thursday. I’m into the Art Deco vibe, have loved her food in the past, and am just curious to try it after so many months (years?) of delays. LMK if you go.


On Eater


This Week on the Podcast

This week on the Eater Upsell podcast, Daniel and I talk about death! First, we talk to chef Will Horowitz about slaughtering eels. St. Anselm chefs Katrina Zito and Sarah Cooper discuss being on the front lines of relationship death. And Eater’s restaurant editor Hillary Dixler Canavan talks about dead plants in restaurants and strategies forkeeping them alive.


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