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Watch: The Montreal Restaurant Getting Creative With Jewish Food Classics

Gefilte-fish tacos and massafan ice cream sandwiches are on the menu at Fletchers

Fletchers is a fascinating experiment in dining, culture, and history inside the Museum of Jewish Montreal — and I am 100 percent here for it. We don’t always do things the traditional way on Dining on a Dime, and this trip to Fletchers shows that a food experience can be heightened and given depth when you’ve got context and historical background to go along with it.

Jewish food historian Kat Romanow is the brains behind this operation, and in addition to preparing modern twists on traditional Jewish favorites she gives cultural tours to educate the curious. As an example, Romanow takes the traditional and revered — and, perhaps, a bit feared — gefilte fish and puts a modern twist on it. She makes it from scratch and serves it as a taco in a combination that works surprisingly well. And it’s not simply doing something splashy or gimmicky; food must evolve in interesting ways or it will eventually be stuffily relegated to holidays or special occasions. Romanow thinks carefully about the food traditions and how they evolve, and I was fascinated to learn from her.

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