Special thanks to: Dad Wang, for pestering Sichuan restaurateurs about the history of shui zhu yu; Stephanie Hsieh, for leads on SGV spots; Leslie Huang, for leads on Bay Area spots; E Lee, Michelle Ma, and Iris Jong for additional thoughts; and Michael, for everything.
Angie Wang is a Los Angeles-based illustrator, animator, and game developer.
Copy edited by Rachel P. Kreiter