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The Game, the Food, and the City

Super Bowl Sunday, a London opening to watch, and more in this weekly roundup from the editor

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buffalo wings
Buffalo wings at the National Buffalo Wing Festival
Brendan Bannon

This post originally appeared in EIC Amanda Kludt’s From the Editor newsletter, a weekly recap of the most important intel in food and dining each week. Subscribe now.

Headliner: The Game

I come from and happen to be visiting Pats Country this weekend, so both my father and my 10-month-old are wearing Patriots-themed apparel right now. That said, what’s more interesting to me than the Super Bowl tomorrow is a) the food, and b) how the city of Houston has been frantically prepping for the onslaught.

First, the food: Here’s everything you need to know about how fried pickles became a thing at sports bars. The history of potato skins. How wings became the king of all Super Bowl food. What recipes people are searching for, state by state. And Daniela Galarza on the superiority of jalapeño poppers. Want to just read a lot about buffalo wings? We got you.

Meanwhile, in Houston, restaurants have been pleading for more labor in anticipation of the 140,000 fans expected to descend upon the city. And new restaurants are furiously opening their doors in time to greet the hordes of fans. Bobby Heugel just opened his 25-seat cocktail bar Tongue-Cut Sparrow, and Chris Shepherd’s One Fifth, Phillippe Verpiand’s Brasserie du Parc, and Hugo Ortega’s Xochi all came in just under the wire. If you’re going to Houston for the big game, this guide should help.

And one more thing: the 10 best Super Bowl commercials of all time (and a roundup of this year’s ads).

la dame de pic
La Dame de Pic
Images courtesy La Dame de Pic

Opening of the Week: La Dame de Pic

Who is behind it? Anne-Sophie Pic, the fourth female chef to attain three Michelin stars and the only woman in France right now to maintain the honor.

What is it? A London outpost of her Paris restaurant La Dame de Pic. At the new location, she’ll serve French food made with British ingredients.

Where is it? Inside the Four Seasons, right near the Tower of London.

When did it open? Last week on January 26th.

Why should we care? Anything Pic does, and especially anything she does outside of her native France, merits close attention. This arrival is especially interesting to me because savvy London diners are becoming increasingly skeptical of big-name outsiders opening London branches of their restaurants when so many homegrown culinary heroes are making headlines and headway of their own.

Turkey and the Wolf sandwich
Bill Addison

Must Reads on Eater

What to Read Off Eater

  • Saveur asked a bunch of architects to weigh in on the structural integrity of famous desserts. Build pastries, not walls. [Saveur]
  • I keep meaning to write our version of “Yes, of course food is political. Stop telling us to avoid politics.” Here’s Food52’s, and it’s pitch perfect. [Food52]
  • The next version of shapeshifting restaurant Next will be a tasting menu of other famous chefs’ dishes. [Forbes]
  • Refugees have emerged as a key labor source for the nation’s slaughterhouses, and about one-third of meat-packing workers are foreign-born. Of course, meatpacking is one of the lowest-paid industrial jobs (no unions), with high turnover rates. [Mother Jones]
  • New York chef Anita Lo on why she’s closing her restaurant Annisa after 17 years: “... the day-to-day gets wearing when you don’t have a lot of cushion. And the cushion keeps getting taken away — the government keeps taking more and more and more — and it’s just not worth it anymore.” [Grub Street]

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