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The New Pujol Is Absolutely Breathtaking

A Mexico City icon gets a reinvention

Hillary Dixler Canavan is Eater's restaurant editor and the author of the publication's debut book, Eater: 100 Essential Restaurant Recipes From the Authority on Where to Eat and Why It Matters (Abrams, September 2023). Her work focuses on dining trends and the people changing the industry — and scouting the next hot restaurant you need to try on Eater's annual Best New Restaurant list.

It’s taken him a couple years, but acclaimed Mexico City chef Enrique Olvera is about ready to close the doors at his fine-dining sensation Pujol. In the coming weeks, he’ll be relocating Pujol to a stunner of a space: It’s minimalist but lush, clean but inviting, ultra Right This Moment but also timeless. Diners who are familiar with Olvera’s hit New York City restaurant Cosme will also see some familiar aesthetic choices.

“I realized with Cosme that I like restaurants that are fun,” he told the New York Times earlier this month. “I like restaurants that are not special-occasion restaurants, and where people can just come in and relax and have a beautiful time.” To that end, there’s plenty of bar space, and the wood tables will remain tablecloth-free.

Olvera is heeding the call heard by chefs around the world, and focusing almost exclusively on wood-fired cooking. With a grill and a hearth, the new Pujol kitchen is noticeably short on stovetop burners. Instead, there’s a comal (a cast iron flat top for tortillas) and outside, a brick oven for dishes like barbacoa. There’s also a backyard herb garden.

Pujol made a name for itself with its modern interpretations of Mexican ingredients. The thoughtful tasting menu catapulted the restaurant onto the World’s 50 Best List and secured its place as one of the most essential dining experiences in Mexico City. At the new location, the bar space will offer its own taco menu, while the dining room will offer a six-course tasting. (It’s worth noting here that New York City’s Cosme is a la carte.)

Pujol’s spokesperson won’t confirm the exact closure date, but tells Eater that the last day at the original Pujol space “will be followed immediately for the first date at the new location.” Stay tuned.