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Seafarming, Sushi Prices, Whole Wheat, and More Long Reads

Worthy weekend reading material

Spencer Platt/Getty Images

From under the sea to on top of the table, one interview explains the difficulties with sourcing local food, while another digs deep into oyster farming. Sushi roll costs reflect lifestyle differences in Midtown, Manhattan, and the Bronx, and pivotal life moments are catalogued in one individual’s wine collection. Whole wheat proves not just to be healthier, but beneficial. These are a few of seven great articles worthy of being a Father’s Day gift.

Why Sourcing Local Food Is So Hard for Restaurants

Harvard Business Review

For example, if you dine at a farm-to-table restaurant, you expect to pay a little bit more even though the supply chain is shorter. You realize that the industrial efficiency of the Tyson chicken plant that results in pretty low prices is not going to be replicated at a friendly local organic farm. Nor would you want it to be.

Seafarming at the End of the World

Lucky Peach

I got turned off by industrial fishing in part because the fish just started to disappear. I was starting to get some level of slow consciousness there, and I started to explore aquaculture. Of course, aquaculture was just starting to get industrialized as land culture was getting deindustrialized, so my first exposure to it was terrible. I worked at some salmon farms, and they were awful. Very awful.

In New York City, What’s the Difference Between a $240 Sushi Roll and a $6.95 Sushi Roll?

Pacific Standard Magazine

Fifty blocks north of Kappo Masa and across the Harlem River we find a very different economic reality, and a very different market for fish. The South Bronx neighborhood of Mott Haven is the poorest neighborhood in the city. In fact, with a median household income of $19,536 a year and a poverty rate of near 50 percent, Mott Haven and its neighbor, Port Morris, represent the poorest zip code in the poorest congressional district of the entire U.S. In some areas of Mott Haven and Port Morris, a typical household could save for an entire month, without paying rent or any other expenses, and they still wouldn’t have enough for a single dinner date at Masa.

My Wine Accumulation


Wine always evokes the pairing—food, obviously, but to be matched with something else, too: an evening, an event, a moment, another person. In my imagination, I experience a low-rent version of a bibliophile retrieving a perfect book to give to a friend: "Ah, seafood pasta? A birthday? A date?" I picture myself asking others. "Yes, I have just the thing for that!" It is precisely the endlessness of the list that makes the drink such an inexhaustible canvas, the image of a collection becoming the connective tissue between my life as it is and how I want it to be.

How I Became a Certified Barbecue Judge


When pressed, the same judge gave some exceptionally helpful clarification based on his own opinions. "A two is when you put something in your mouth and vomit." A three is "when you put it in your mouth and spit it out." As I understood it, he implied that a four is when you put it in your mouth and want to spit it out, so in general, scores from two to four seemed cruel unless necessary.

Why Whole Wheat Is Better Than White

The Atlantic

As many eaters of bread came to understand that white bread is a nutritional equivalent of Pixy Stix—the nutritious, fibrous shell of the wheat having been removed, leaving us with only the inner starch, which our bodies almost instantly turn into sugar—it needed some rebranding.

Schmear Campaign

New Republic

But the egg board, it turned out, was a chief architect of the smear campaign against Hampton Creek. Joanne Ivy, the board’s president, had emailed fellow board members, instructing them to consider Just Mayo’s success "a crisis and major threat to the future of the egg product business." She solicited ideas to thwart Hampton Creek, and suggested pushing the FDA to declare Just Mayo’s label misleading.