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But as a place to visit, it has its quirks. Whether you're a seasoned traveler or green as a leaf of hoja santa, allow us to provide some practical advice.
The basics:
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Aficionados often refer to Mexico City as "DF" (short for "Distrito Federal") or CDMX ("Ciudad de Mexico"), and to the locals as chilangos.
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Most employees at sit-down restaurants will speak a little English, but still — especially if you're planning to avail yourself of street food, or head to off-the-beaten-track neighborhoods — you should memorize a few key phrases, especially ones related to ordering food.
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Mexico City is over 7,000 feet above sea level, so you might feel out of breath after long walks or climbing stairs. The high altitude also affects alcohol tolerance — be careful!
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No, you shouldn't drink the tap water, but know that legally every restaurant (and hotel) must serve filtered water. Most street stands do as well.
Dining:
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15 percent tips are customary at restaurants. Before a server runs your card, tell him or her "con quince" ("with fifteen"), because there won't be an opportunity to add a tip later on, unless you have cash.
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Here, "la comida" (the meal) means lunch. DF is a big lunch town, so plan your days accordingly. You'll find the most vibrant scenes, the best food, and the most open restaurants during the long afternoon hours.
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Compared to lunch, dinner is usually a lighter meal. For locals, it often takes place as late as 10 p.m.
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Candies at a small street stand. [Photo: Daniela Galarza]
Transportation:
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Though locals often hail taxis off the street, a tourist who does it is asking to get ripped off or worse. Use taxi stands (make sure you negotiate a rate ahead of time, or that they use the meter) or for even more reliable service (and generally a lower cost), use Uber.
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The metro, also called Sistema de Transporte Colectivo or STC, costs 5 pesos each way. Paper tickets or long-term passes must be purchased, with cash, from cashiers underground; there are no automatic ticket machines.
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It's illegal to take pictures while in the subway system, no matter how delicious that churro looks.
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Public transportation also includes a vast bus system, as well as local (unregulated) bus systems and smaller vans called Micros.
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Eater used Google maps throughout this guide. Here's how to download maps for offline use.
Mexico City's eating establishments, defined:
- Puesta: Stall, stand, or booth and the most common dining establishment by far.
- Fonda: A small, usually family-run restaurant. They usually serve a set 3-course menu for a very reasonable price. Found in every neighborhood, fondas are open mostly for breakfast and lunch.
- Cantina: A bar that also serves food. It used to be that cantinas served free food with every drink order, but only a few places still offer free bites. Most cantinas are drinking holes that have a menu of simple bites, mariscos, tacos, tostadas, guisados, or crunchy snacks.
- -rías: The suffix for restaurants and drinking establishments that specialize in one type of food or drink. A panadería is a bakery; a pulquería, a place that serves pulque. A tortaría sells tortas, but a tortillaría makes tortillas.
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