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One Perfect, Crazy Night in Mexico City

Twelve hours of non-stop fun

When I arrived in Mexico City, I learned that this is a city that doesn't sleep. And as one local told me, when you don't sleep, you eventually need to eat. Though many establishments aren't open for dinner on Sunday and close on the early side (before 8 p.m.) the rest of the week, Thursday, Friday, and Saturday nights are for drinking, dancing, and feasting. Everyone of all ages comes out to play. Here's one complete itinerary for a full night out on the town. Situate yourself (and a few friends) in colonía Roma and get ready to have the night of your life.


A perfect all-nighter in Mexico City is fairly easy to pull off provided you: 1) take a disco nap sometime the day of; 2) wear comfortable shoes; and 3) bring a phone charger or back-up battery pack. And hey — we've mapped this whole thing out for you. Download it to your phone and you'll be all set.

Let's get going!

7:00 p.m. Start in the Roma Norte neighborhood with dinner at the convivial mainstay Contramar. Chef Gaby Cámara's tuna tostada is the thing to order, but all of the mariscos, flown in from Baja daily, are fantastic. Don't sleep on the desserts or drinks, either. Note: the kitchen closes at 8 p.m. This is no time to dawdle.

16-minute walk

9:00 p.m. Wander a bit south and down the fashionable Avenida Alvaro Obregón — named for a revolutionary General and Mexican President. You'll pass dozens of bars but the one you're looking for is called Romita Comedor. The place has a full menu, but you don't want the food. You want a cocktail, or, even better, a mezcal con sangrita. (Note: It's open until 2 a.m.)

8-minute walk

11:00 p.m. If you like music or culture or dancing, walk to Patrick Miller, a club named after a DJ who doesn't exist and operated by a music obsessive named Roberto. It's not supposed to make sense. It's a crazy amount of fun. (Note: Patrick Miller is only open on Friday nights.)

15-minute walk

1:00 a.m. One of Mexico City's most charming classic establishments, Merendero Biarritz serves a large menu of standards but it's the righteous tortas Milanesa that stand out. (Get there on time: The kitchen closes at 2 a.m.)

19-minute walk or 5-minute drive

2:00 a.m. Don't miss a chance to try pulque at Pulqueria los Insurgentes. The beverage is known for its supposed hallucinogenic properties, but if you didn't grow up on it, just know that it's an acquired texture and taste. Drink enough of it and the low alcohol content will give you a buzz. (Note: The bar closes at 3 a.m.)

12-minute walk

3:30 a.m. One of the only decent places open 24 hours a day, seven days a week, Casa del Toño in Zona Rosa serves a hearty pozole perfect for soaking up some of the alcohol you've consumed in the past 8 hours. The Micheladas are good too.

6-minute walk

5:00 a.m. Go watch the sunrise at El Angel. Don't miss the magical moment when the sun hits the angel's wings.

20-minute car ride

6:00 a.m. Stay awake to taste the meltingly tender guisados at Fonda Margarita, one of the best restaurants for breakfast in the whole city. The frijoles negras con huevos will sober you up; the strong cafe de olla will keep you awake until you get home. Yes, this is a 20-minute car ride from Roma, yes it's worth it. (Note: most dishes run out by 9:30 a.m.)

7:00 a.m. Call an Uber to take you home. Sleep until noon, then hit Panadería Rosetta (there's one in Roma Norte and another in Juárez) for hangover-soothing coffee and pastries.


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