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24 Hours at Waffle House With Bon Appétit's Restaurant Editor

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(He starts to lose it a little bit near the end.)

Intrepid restaurant editor works a 24-hour shift at Waffle House. This is no joke: Andrew Knowlton, Bon Appétit magazine's restaurant editor — who has what might be described as a pretty plum gig — put himself through a grease-filled day at Kimye favorite and the South's most beloved/contested chain.

After shaving his beard (Waffle House has a strict no-beard policy), Knowlton shows up on the line looking like a deer in headlights. He instructs a cook named Shorty to "yell at me if I get in the way," before flipping a frying pan of eggs like a pro, winning applause from his fellow cooks. Watch Knowlton master the waffles, wash dishes, and clean the grill ("This is when your love for the Waffle House is really tested"). Does Knowlton make it to the end of his shift? Watch the video above to see what happens after midnight.