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Review: Bundu Khan

This week, Senior Critic Robert Sietsema reviews the meatiest restaurant in New York: Bundu Khan's menu is 85% meat. There's a strong offal selection, and some of the most tender kabobs in the city: "Gola means 'hand grenade,' which this kebab resembles in shape, if not texture. In fact, finely minced with papaya, yogurt, and spices, the beef is so soft it must be laced together with thread like a girdle." Four stars. [ENY]