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Restaurant Review: Mission Cantina in New York City

Photo: Daniel Krieger

There's a small but growing pool of restaurants like Empellon and Pujol that are modernizing and reinventing Mexican fare, mixing traditional techniques with avant-garde ones and charging accordingly for the delicious privilege. And then there's Mission Cantina on Manhattan's Lower East Side, where a poster of Jenny McCarthy squirting mustard hangs on the wall, where Snoop Dogg's "Gin and Juice" pipes through the sound system, and where chefs use beef from humanely-raised cows to make sloppy, gloppy, double decker tacos.

Could the bar make a fresh lemonade?

"No, but we have orange soda," my waiter replied, and I briefly thought about asking her whether they had a Doritos Loco taco to go with that.

Instead, I ordered one of New York's most expensive burritos at $14.

It's a damn good burrito. >>

Mission Cantina

172 Orchard St., New York, NY