There's a small but growing pool of restaurants like Empellon and Pujol that are modernizing and reinventing Mexican fare, mixing traditional techniques with avant-garde ones and charging accordingly for the delicious privilege. And then there's Mission Cantina on Manhattan's Lower East Side, where a poster of Jenny McCarthy squirting mustard hangs on the wall, where Snoop Dogg's "Gin and Juice" pipes through the sound system, and where chefs use beef from humanely-raised cows to make sloppy, gloppy, double decker tacos.
Could the bar make a fresh lemonade?
"No, but we have orange soda," my waiter replied, and I briefly thought about asking her whether they had a Doritos Loco taco to go with that.
Instead, I ordered one of New York's most expensive burritos at $14.