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Desserts, Disappointing

Humphry-Scolum-Ice-Cream.jpgNew York magazine critic Adam Platt says "this is the Dark Age" of desserts at sit-down restaurants. On the changes in the kitchen: "More and more of the restaurants I review don't even employ full-time dessert cooks, which is why their menus are flooded with pre-made pies, cakes, and puddings that can be put together ahead of time and whisked out to diners as quickly as possible." [GS]
Humphry Slocombe ice cream. [Photo: Patricia Chang/Eater]

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