San Francisco Chronicle critic Michael Bauer revisits Alice Waters' legendary Berkeley shrine to local foods Chez Panisse, and finds it worthy of four stars. The restaurant has undergone a lot of change in recent years: After the departure of chefs Jean-Pierre Moullé and David Tanis two years ago, Jerome Waag and Cal Peternell were brought on board to trade off head chef duties every six months. (Bauer ate meals prepared by both chefs.) Then a fire last March forced a temporary shutter and a slight remodel of the restaurant.
The four stars are a major get for the beleaguered landmark, as they lost their single Michelin star back in 2011. Bauer writes, "It's not a legacy rating to honor the monumental impact the restaurant has had on the way we eat. The restaurant continues to prove itself night after night with a completely new menu." You can see photos of his meals here.