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Week in Reviews: London Edition

leon-de-bruxelles-008.jpgObserver critic Jay Rayner reviews the London branch of the Belgian moules-frites restaurant chain Léon de Bruxelles. So how are the mussels? "The meat inside the shells is small and shrivelled and dry; each shell contains what looks like the retracted scrotum of a hairless cat." Rayner's job is hard: "I order the Madras mussels, because it's my stupid job to do so. It's exactly as you would expect Indian food to be were it cooked by Belgians." He calls the restaurant "terribly, terribly sad." [Observer]

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