Critic Jay Rayner reviews Raymond Blanc's Le Manoir aux Quat'Saisons (Britain's priciest restaurant, it costs around $1600 USD for two). Tucked into the review is a slam of David Kinch's Los Gatos, CA restaurant Manresa: "The Japanese-accented food was interesting, but the experience was rendered tortuous by the intensely stupid service. Waiters had been drilled to walk in single file with one hand stapled to their backs; a sommelier attempted to flog us a wine 60% more expensive than the one we had chosen, and then turned frosty when we declined. It sapped the will; it poisoned the well." [Observer][Photo: Daniel Krieger]
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