Week in Reviews

Here's Observer critic Jay Rayner on Otto's, the newish old-school French restaurant in London. On the duck press: "[I]t feels like a room in which very good things can happen... Unless you're a duck." Quote: "It is served in two parts, legs first, followed by slices of rare breast, under a stupidly rich sauce made from the juices of the bird, extracted by crushing it in the press: those juices, the liver, cognac, other stuff, a side order of defibrillator." See a slideshow of the duck press. [Observer]
[Photo: Otto's]