Week in Reviews: London Edition

Observer critic Jay Rayner reviews Whyte & Brown in London, a restaurant that only serves chicken and eggs. Writes Rayner: "For the most part, chicken is the beige of the restaurant world; it's the Ikea shelving unit, the Vauxhall Vectra." While the roast chicken is "perfectly serviceable," Rayner is a fan of the "crisp chicken shards": "Whoever came up with the notion of serving slabs of seasoned, deep-fried chicken skin has a filthy mind. It's £1.75 of glorious, salty artery blocker." [Observer][Photo: Daniel Krieger]