Writer/critic Gael Greene reports on her visit to Eugénie-les-Bains, France, where she had last visited as a critic for New York magazine. Eating her way through three Michelin-starred chef Michel Guérard's restaurants, she reflects on one disappointing lunch: "Should I have ordered a bottle of wine, not a glass, or even a bottle of white and another of red as I did in my expense account days? Would it help if I were tipsy? Or 30 years younger?" [Saveur]
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