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Week in Reviews: Estela

estela.jpgGQ restaurant man Alan Richman reviews chef Ignacio Mattos' NYC restaurant Estela and drops some major, major praise: "Mattos's cooking is so exuberant, original, unconventional, and compelling, I don't know how you can keep them away. I don't even know what to call his food. Maybe contemporary, but that's so yesterday. I don't think it's Uruguayan. I've been there, and I never ate anything as extraordinary as this." Richman takes issue with service, and gives it two stars (out of four). [GQ]
[Photo: Daniel Krieger]