Esquire's restaurant man John Mariani tracks the history of restaurant music and "how it got so bad." He blames chef Mario Batali's NYC restaurant Babbo for everything: "Dining rooms suddenly took on a din that has never left. Ears began to ring." And today: "[N]o one can any longer hear what song is being played anyway, because only the bass and drums can punch through the noise... Many chefs and owners just shrug." [Esquire]
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Loud Music, Disliked
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