Chef Jonathan Luce (Bellanico, Oakland, CA) responds to San Francisco Chronicle critic Michael Bauer's statement that not having salt and pepper on a table "smacks of arrogance." Writes Luce: "The reason we removed salt and pepper shakers from our tables at Bellanico was plain and simple: table real estate... the goal is to put out dishes that are perfectly salted. I put a huge amount of energy into taste and training my cooks to taste everything that goes out." [ISSF]
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