Week in Reviews: Costata Edition

New York Times critic Pete Wells awards two stars to chef Michael White's SoHo restaurant Costata. Although Wells takes issue with some of the decor and a few of the dishes, he has high praise for the pasta and the steaks: "Bathed in mouth-coating melted fat, the meat is so tender beneath its dark crust that slicing it makes you feel like a bully. This steak alone is a reason for the restaurant that it's named after to exist." [NYT]