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Week in Reviews: Costata Edition

Photo: Daniel Krieger
Hillary Dixler Canavan is Eater's restaurant editor and the author of the publication's debut book, Eater: 100 Essential Restaurant Recipes From the Authority on Where to Eat and Why It Matters (Abrams, September 2023). Her work focuses on dining trends and the people changing the industry — and scouting the next hot restaurant you need to try on Eater's annual Best New Restaurant list.

New York Times critic Pete Wells awards two stars to chef Michael White's SoHo restaurant Costata. Although Wells takes issue with some of the decor and a few of the dishes, he has high praise for the pasta and the steaks: "Bathed in mouth-coating melted fat, the meat is so tender beneath its dark crust that slicing it makes you feel like a bully. This steak alone is a reason for the restaurant that it's named after to exist." [NYT]