The Critics

Following critic Pete Wells' use of a decoy to review Daniel, Slate's L.V. Anderson calls for restaurant critics to "stop pretending they're anonymous." Quote: "It's great for Wells to acknowledge the truth about 21st-century restaurant criticism, but it would be better for him to go one step further, do away with the whole pretense of being an everyman, and go public with his real face... it's time for him to stop pretending he blends in with the masses. As far as elite restaurateurs are concerned, he doesn't." [Slate]