Week in Reviews

LA Times critic Jonathan Gold files a very favorable review of chef Chad Colby's new meat mecca in Los Angeles, chi Spacca (co-owned by Mario Batali, Joe Bastianich, and Nancy Silverton). Quote: "The standard disclaimer applies: Silverton is a close family friend of long standing, and she has co-written a book with my wife. I was unable to slip into the restaurant anonymously, although I did reserve under assumed names. So feel free to discount anything I have to say about the place." [LAT]