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New York Times critic Pete Wells hits the road for the second time in three weeks and visits Joshua Skenes' San Francisco restaurant Saison. He calls it "one of the most compelling meals I've had on the job." Wells explains his road trip reviews (which will be unstarred, for now) in a blog post: "I think it's time for the restaurant critic of The Times to cast a wider net. The Times has been a national paper for years now, and its Web site is seen all around the world." [NYT]
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