Do not miss writer and critic A. A. Gill on steak, for Vanity Fair: "Steak is a high-value food that doesn't need a chef. You don't want some twiddly-accented, jus-dribbling, foam-flicking chef mincing about with your meat. You want a guy in a checked shirt with his sleeves rolled up forking and tonging your T-bone... It's an emblem of victory, of survival. A slab of bleeding meat is symbolic of something fundamental, something pre-banking, pre-mortgage, predownsizing, prehistoric." [Vanity Fair via @gastropoda]
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A. A. Gill on Steak
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