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Tasting Menu Wire

ruhlman-150.jpgWriter Michael Ruhlman responds to Corby Kummer's Vanity Fair tasting-menu-as-tyranny piece: "Kummer, in what is a kind of reported editorial rant, criticizes as from a throne, seeming to enjoy the sound of his own voice rather than offering useful opinion... If I don't want to eat that way, I don't go to the restaurant." [Ruhlman]

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