Week in Reviews: The Church Key

LA Times critic Jonathan Gold reviews The Church Key in Los Angeles. He writes: "The future is here, and it comes with carts." Indeed, the restaurant is full of carts: There's one with a "red, hand-cranked Berkel ham slicer from the 1950s," another is a "vintage PanAm drinks cart," another "holds rocks glasses, spherical ice cubes and house-canned cocktails," and others serve sashimi, egg rolls, and then "Cheetos," which are "fried pig's ears blown out by some mysterious process into featherlight shards." [LAT]