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Rayner on "Taverns"

bernersfq150l.jpgThe Guardian critic Jay Rayner tackles London's recent proliferation of haute "taverns," aka the name for restaurants looking to appear (but failing to actually be) "humble." The most egregious may be chef Jason Atherton's Berner's Tavern, where "the ceiling is so high you could fly a kite in there, as long as you didn't chip the Georgian roses. There's acres of polished wood, a clutter of dodgy art and chandeliers like crystal tits." [Guardian] [Photo: Foursquare]